Just thought these might come in handy to folks on the forum.
Dave Kishpaugh's (Jeep West) Geometry Correction Bracket Measurements
- Thread starter 01TJ-Blues
- Start date
OP
A ton on info on this thread as well.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-correction-brackets-are-now-available.43364/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-correction-brackets-are-now-available.43364/
OP
This is from Dave regarding the relocation of the lower spring perches.
—————————————
Only rotate the lower. Leave the upper where it belongs. Make the upper and lower parallel at full bump with a 2-3" bumpstop. The pinion angle needs to be correct at ride height before the perches are set.
If you don't know what ride height is, set it with 12.5" between the upper perches and the axle tube.
Cut off the lower perches before you weld on the geometry correction brackets.
—————————————
Only rotate the lower. Leave the upper where it belongs. Make the upper and lower parallel at full bump with a 2-3" bumpstop. The pinion angle needs to be correct at ride height before the perches are set.
If you don't know what ride height is, set it with 12.5" between the upper perches and the axle tube.
Cut off the lower perches before you weld on the geometry correction brackets.
I'm going to keep on moving the uppers. And we also figured out how to correct Dave's geometry correction to largely stop the hops while climbing big steep ledges. 
I've seen these on the otherwise identical jeep (give or take) back to back on nearly the same terrain and agree with @jjvw - there's much to improve with these for wheeling.
OP
By all means, feel free to share your learnings.I'm going to keep on moving the uppers. And we also figured out how to correct Dave's geometry correction to largely stop the hops while climbing big steep ledges.
If I recall, the vertical separation at the axle needs to be brought closer to the Savvy mid arm. The uppers need to go higher. The hops are significantly reduced.
Does that still work with the brackets he provides or do they have to be even taller? (which if I'm not mistaken would be at the tradeoff of uptravel before the brackets punch the tub)
and just to maintain context here, is the design a noticeable improvement over a stock short arm, and raising the uppers more makes that improvement even more significant?
The JW Geo kit was no better than stock lifted short arms in an off-road context where geometry actually matters. Fixing the Geometry Correction was a very noticeable mprovement.
FYI, Dave blocked me for pointing out how his shitty kit doesn't work off road right about this time last year. Not too long ago, he unblocked me. Let's see if he does it again.
OP
That's fine. It wasn't made for off road use. It was made for driving tight fast circles around a parking lot to stop the front inside tire from lifting.
oh, I remember the thread. It was just such a charlie foxtrot that it was impossible for the rest of us to actually figure out what was real.
If you're keen to do so, can you explain why the seemingly significant geometry changes made by the standard correction kit don't make a noticeable difference, but an additional comparatively minor change to one end of the uppers does?
For clarity, my use of "seemingly significant" and "comparatively minor" simply refer to the total change in angle over how many links are affected, and the assumption that the resulting change in instant center is proportional to each.
The AS was changed by lowering the IC a bit.
Exactly how and why, I don't care much. Except that I know what I saw on the trails before and after.
that's what I don't understand, and living in the offroading wasteland that is Oklahoma I don't get a lot of chances to go wheeling with a midarm rig and a geo corrected rig to compare them side by side.
It just seems like if you consider the AS and IC starting points from a stock shortarm, and then the final point of the modified geo correction, that ~75% of the change should have been from the kit, and the remaining 25% from the modification.
Then again, I think the rocks are too slippery here to get enough grip to hop anyway, so I don't have a good reason to care other than just to build my understanding. I'd like for one day to just be able to look at a suspension design and know if/how it could be improved rather than having to go on a forum and ask.
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
OP
So is the SwayLOC that you raved about a “shitty kit” too because it only improves if you are driving in tight fast circles in a parking lot too? That was sarcasm, we know it improves street ability too but is it any better off road and if not should we say it sucks like you’re saying JW’s kit does?
Bad comparison, because the Swayloc is an improvement over the stock sway bar on the street, while doing everything that the Antirock does offf-road.
I've had one offroad outing with the swayloc but it was enough that I'm certain it improved offroad ability vs being disconnected. At the end of the day I specifically thought about how several spots caught my attention as discomfortingly off camber-looking but how at no point during the day did my Jeep actually make me nervous about it. That was a new experience.
OP
So you are saying that the JW Geo Correction does NOT improve the performance off road at all? That’s it’s zero gain?