Im gonna outboard before the midarm most definitely, but ill just need those currie 4" springs so ill have pinion angles finalized
Im gonna outboard before the midarm most definitely, but ill just need those currie 4" springs so ill have pinion angles finalized
That's actually not how it works at all. The hop is caused by how effectively the power is being transferred to the ground, and that is almost entirely controlled by the geometry. With an anti-squat higher then 100%, that means that as power is applied the suspension lifts the rear of the rig. It then tends to lift it beyond a point of equilibrium, and then it comes back down and starts all over again. This happens even on flat ground, but it is exacerbated on a climb. The higher the anti-squat, the worse the bounce. As we have seen from the calculators earlier in the thread, the anti-squat % is higher on the bracket relocation relative to the mid-arm. That is why the bracket approach bounces more. The anti-squat on the mid-arm is better, but still likely above 100%. That is why JJ's does better, but still bounces just a bit.
To your point on traction, is does change, but it is a consequence of the bounce, not the cause.
But...l've been wrong before...
Well one of us has said ad nauseam even before Dave started selling these brackets that relocating the stock arms will provide some improvement for those that are NOT to the level of needing something like the Savvy mid arm and because of the limited architecture there is only so much improvement you can make. But that does not mean they have no value. 4 inch and taller lifted TJs drive like shit and we know this by all the products out there trying to fix those issues. So there is a place for them if someone does the research and understands what they can and cannot do.Not to pick on you because I was under the very same impression, but you know there is a contingency here who claim this is and always was a street modification.
It does not matter. JJ is basically saying that unless it completely eliminates all chances of bad behavior off road the brackets have no value.How do we know it didn’t improve his off road performance?
it's like a wreck i can't look away from.
maybe i'm off here but i'm seeing this sys the opposite of a tummy tuck.
a TT will raise your drive line and make a 4" lift act like a 6".
the brackets take your 4" lift and try to make it act like a 2" lift.
^^^^^^^^YAY! CLOSE THE PHUCKING THREAD BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE!
... And Jeffrey Epstein still didn't kill himself
I know this is going to be controversial but move the frame side of the lower control arm down 5/8" in the calculator.
Click "Unwatch"^^^^^^^^
This guy deserves to listen!!
And it would have to be lower, not desirable... There's a compromise here. Get the geometry notably better for $160. Or spend $3000 and make it quite a bit better. Even if the off road improvement is 10%, it's worth it, right? I get fine tuning it too... I tinker a lot.Would that add another bracket? What are the numbers?
10% not so much..... but at close to 50% yes.And it would have to be lower, not desirable... There's a compromise here. Get the geometry notably better for $160. Or spend $3000 and make it quite a bit better. Even if the off road improvement is 10%, it's worth it, right? I get fine tuning it too... I tinker a lot.
It takes a little perspective for it to make sense... Also, we need to overlook the agenda's.
Because what you are really saying is that if you don't know what you are looking at, know one knows what they are looking at. Because you are a scientist.I give you too much credit. Sorry about that. Your character is the problem, and that defaces everything you say. I like the TJKini though!
I agree on 3 out of 4. The last one is a wash.So is it fair to say both of these are true? In both performance and cost?
Offroad -
Short arms < Short arms w/geo correction < mid arms
Onroad -
Short arms < Short arms w/geo correction < mid arms
So is it fair to say both of these are true? In both performance and cost?
Offroad -
Short arms < Short arms w/geo correction < mid arms
Onroad -
Short arms < Short arms w/geo correction < mid arms
Using the numbers posted by Starkey the AS would be 91%. Yes you would have to add material to the frame mount.Would that add another bracket? What are the numbers?
Not desireable for some for sure, but if you take Starkeys numbers and lower the frame side to 1.75 inch lower than stock you get 86%. Ironically there was a product on the market that did this and I remember on several different forums saying the guy who designed it was an idiot. The same idiot shortly after that released a long arm kit that the same forums gushed over.And it would have to be lower, not desirable... There's a compromise here. Get the geometry notably better for $160. Or spend $3000 and make it quite a bit better. Even if the off road improvement is 10%, it's worth it, right? I get fine tuning it too... I tinker a lot.
It takes a little perspective for it to make sense... Also, we need to overlook the agenda's.
And there was nothing wrong with the product. It did what it intended to do. Was it the right choice for everyone? No. And that’s ok.Using the numbers posted by Starkey the AS would be 91%. Yes you would have to add material to the frame mount.
Not desireable for some for sure, but if you take Starkeys numbers and lower the frame side to 1.75 inch lower than stock you get 86%. Ironically there was a product on the market that did this and I remember on several different forums saying the guy who designed it was an idiot. The same idiot shortly after that released a long arm kit that the same forums gushed over.
Exactly, but it's taken 759 posts (and counting) to beat this shit to death. It's like a bunch of hens who absolutely must get the last word in.So is it fair to say both of these are true? In both performance and cost?
Offroad -
Short arms < Short arms w/geo correction < mid arms
Onroad -
Short arms < Short arms w/geo correction < mid arms