Dave Kishpaugh's (Jeep West) geometry correction brackets are now available

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I had @David Kishpaugh install his GC to my TJ this week. I have 2 inch OME springs and notrochargers (soon to be replaced). I drove it home last night, and it handled well and rode nicely. I go back to Turkey next week so it will be a while before I take it off road.

I am on a tight schedule while I am in Oregon this holiday season, and Dave really came through and finished his work quickly.

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I'm still confused about who this product is is for. 4" SA lift, 1.25" BL, and tummy tuck?
You can with some tweaking you could use it from 2-4 inches of lift. Body lift is for the tummy tuck and if you want maximum panhard bar height at the axle.
 
2.5-4.5" lifts specifically. It drastically improves 6" short arm as well as rubicon express, metal cloak long arm, and is the missing link for the rockmen rockstar mid arm.
Dave what track bar are you usually using in the rear?
 
What is the theory on having track bar mount the same height as UCAM?
 
Dave what track bar are you usually using in the rear?

Stock is the best fit and sets the axle center within a 1/4". Rough country forged followed by jks and currie. I build a special bracket for the currie HD track bar with a 2" mount width as well upon request.
Other track bars such as rubicon express don't even adjust short enough to center the axle w/4" springs.
 
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Stock is the best fit and sets the axle center within a 1/4". Rough country forged followed by jks and currie. I build a special bracket for the currie HD track bar with a 2" mount width as well upon request.
Other track bars such as rubicon express don't even adjust short enough to center the axle w/4" springs.
Are you putting the Dodge bushings in the stock bar or something else?
 
What is the theory on having track bar mount the same height as UCAM?

The only time I use the lower track bar position is if I'm working with a rig that doesn't have a body lift or 3" bumpstop extension/14.5"+ collapsed rear shock length. That won't set up on a 2" bumpstop.

The upper hole was added 3 years ago to alleviate a bind problem I had while setting up 14" travel shocks to a 2" bumpstop with 22.5" rear control arms. Since then I will rarely even drill the lower hole.
 
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Are you putting the Dodge bushings in the stock bar or something else?

Only if they need to be replaced. Im more inclined to buy a 30$ replacement track bar tho. My maroon 99 tj still has the original track bar and bushings in it running a rear 3link/panhard with 15" travel. The 3link mid arm has been on it close to 10 years and has a 35 spline spool in the 8.8.

If there is a bind point, the rubber bushings absorb it. The rigs I've set up with all hiems took some creative bracket placement and control arm lengths to keep tack welded brackets from busting the tacks in the process of making them bind free in the 14" travel range. I have more room for shock tower/tire clearance when using a track bar instead of a 4link also.
 
The only time I use the lower track bar position is if I'm working with a rig that doesn't have a body lift or 3" bumpstop extension/14.5"+ collapsed rear shock length. That won't set up on a 2" bumpstop.

The upper hole was added 3 years ago to alleviate a bind problem I had while setting up 14" travel shocks to a 2" bumpstop with 22.5" rear control arms. Since then I will rarely even drill the lower hole.
@David Kishpaugh - Thanks again for the insight. I am very curious about bind you mentioned. I recently switched from 3" Currie to 4" Currie, and before the switchover and after, I measured my tire to flair distance, and the passenger side is almost 1" lower. I also notice when driving it has a bit of list to the passenger side. Could my current setup have a 'bind' causing my passenger side to pull down the Jeep as that is where the trackbar connects?
 
@David Kishpaugh - Thanks again for the insight. I am very curious about bind you mentioned. I recently switched from 3" Currie to 4" Currie, and before the switchover and after, I measured my tire to flair distance, and the passenger side is almost 1" lower. I also notice when driving it has a bit of list to the passenger side. Could my current setup have a 'bind' causing my passenger side to pull down the Jeep as that is where the trackbar connects?
What arms and track bars are you using?
 
Currie track bar, Currie 4" springs, Currie double adjustable arms just like zebra12, axle is 8.8 with Artec kit.
 
Currie track bar, Currie 4" springs, Currie double adjustable arms just like zebra12, axle is 8.8 with Artec kit.
Ideally with those parts you should not have too much bind then. You could try and disconnect the track bar and see if anything changes. Did you loosen the jam nut on the track bar and realign the JJs after you adjusted your pinion?
 
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Ideally with those parts you should not have too much bind then. You could try and disconnect the track bar and see if anything changes. Did you loosen the jam nut on the track bar and realign the JJs after you adjusted your pinion?

It should be smooth, realizing now I probably need to adjust track bar. Just trying to get full understanding of Dave's theory on correction, as I need to raise my UCAM. Currently they are at full extension as pinion is at 24 degrees. Want to raise and move forward my mounts like Dave does help tame my 'sqirrliness' I feel.
 
It should be smooth, realizing now I probably need to adjust track bar. Just trying to get full understanding of Dave's theory on correction, as I need to raise my UCAM. Currently they are at full extension as pinion is at 24 degrees. Want to raise and move forward my mounts like Dave does help tame my 'sqirrliness' I feel.
The theory is the same as any kit that changes the control arms locations. Its all about the control arms angles and how they transmit the axles torque to the chassis. On the short arm correction by drilling the lower arm mounts and moving the upper on the axle you are putting the arms in a position that is closer to the what the Jeep had before you lifted it. The track bar bracket that Dave uses as well as the one I have moves the track bar higher than a lot of the other brackets out there raising the roll center. Between the two this helps reduce roll steer and instead of trying to lift the chassis during acceleration (the infamous left front tire pick) it just pushes forward.
 
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I was under impression that all was needed was to move up UCAM, but a combination of UCAM and track bar is needed to flatten everything out. I am realizing this is getting out of my fabrication scope, and need to have Dave fix my shit that jacked.

I just thought I could tackle it myself as I have welder, tools, etc and spending a bunch more money on Sarah probably not go over well with the wife.

On the street it lifts hard, and I hate to see what happens on the trail. Probably not very enjoyable experience.
 
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I was under impression that all was needed was to move up UCAM, but a combination of UCAM and track bar is needed to flatten everything out. I am realizing this is getting out of my fabrication scope, and need to have Dave fix my shit that jacked.

I just thought I could tackle it myself as I have welder, tools, etc and spending a bunch more money on Sarah probably not go over well with the wife.

On the street it lifts hard, and I hate to see what happens on the trail. Probably not very enjoyable experience.


Just Empty Every Pocket........

Tell the wife it's for her safety.


If you want to haul your Jeep down to Dave's I can come down with my trailer and we'll haul it down there. Then you can just go pick it up after and drive it home so you can enjoy the fixed suspension.
 
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