Can of worms. .
This oughta be interesting.
Thanks you Dave for your insight and awesome products. I will be there in December with a friend doing the geometry correction and am excited to see the results.So..... this is the fix for the can of worms you created as soon as you installed a 2" puck-6" lift on short arms. They even fix the "can of worms" you created by installing a metal cloak or rubicon express long arm system along with teraflex Enduro kit, skyjacker long arms and the rockmen Rockstar kit.
My main focus with this was at 3.5-4" lift with short arms, a stock track bar, stock exhaust, droped belly-flat belly, sye, and fuel tank clearance. We do not need adjustable control arms although they are highly recommended for a much easier installation. Upper arm holes are 7/16 to accommodate currie control arms. There haven't been any issues from having 10mm bolts in them.
Upon installation with short arms, the lower frame mounts have to be redrilled. The lower frame mount goes down 1" but is still basically the same clearance as it was because of how far the factory bracket hangs. The axle end goes up 1 5/8".
Your jeeps front tire will no longer lift off the ground 2ft from moderate throttle on a hard left hand turn off of a stop light. Guys with lsd rear diffs get to drift around corners like driving a camaro with greatly reduced body roll even without a rear sway bar. The front end Bobbing and grasshopper effect.... Gone. The traction and stability is nothing short of amazing.
Rear steer and suspension bind is eliminated in a 12" travel range from a 2" bumpstop extension, using a 30" extended length outboard shock, which translates to a 16.5/17" spring free length depending on the angle the shock is hung.
if your 35" tires are hitting the evap can, it'll clear with properly adjusted arms after installation.
I do not make any front brackets. Any way you cut the mustard, the front end needs a mid arm even if they are only 24" links.
I have messed around with 2" taller axle mounts, 15" front upper and 26" lower arms with great success. It just doesn't compare to having a 3link mid arm.
Rear geometry correction brackets also work good with stock upper lengths 13.25-14.5" running a 22-26" lower arm without redrilling mounts but the pinion angle goes wonky if you are trying to run long travel shocks like the skyjacker long arm system offered. If we could still get a currie "j" arm, the geometry correction would compliment them very well.
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Thanks you Dave for your insight and awesome products. I will be there in December with a friend doing the geometry correction and am excited to see the results.
We have smart friendsI'll be there too to see that same friend
J arms were cool, flawed, but very interesting.This is a currie inspired set of arms I built in 2017 but I have never had time to follow through on putting them under a rig to experiment with the upper brackets.
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No, they weren't flawed, I think they were improperly used/installed due to the geometry change they created on the axle end, the upper arms also needed to be relocated.J arms were cool, flawed, but very interesting.
You don’t think the loss in ground clearance was an issue? Just what I’ve heard in the past, never got my hand on a set. Makes sense that proper mounts could fix it.No, they weren't flawed, I think they were improperly used/installed due to the geometry change they created on the axle end, the upper arms also needed to be relocated.
So..... this is the fix for the can of worms you created as soon as you installed a 2" puck-6" lift on short arms. They even fix the "can of worms" you created by installing a metal cloak or rubicon express long arm system along with teraflex Enduro kit, skyjacker long arms and the rockmen Rockstar kit.
My main focus with this was at 3.5-4" lift with short arms, a stock track bar, stock exhaust, droped belly-flat belly, sye, and fuel tank clearance. We do not need adjustable control arms although they are highly recommended for a much easier installation. Upper arm holes are 7/16 to accommodate currie control arms. There haven't been any issues from having 10mm bolts in them.
Upon installation with short arms, the lower frame mounts have to be redrilled. The lower frame mount goes down 1" but is still basically the same clearance as it was because of how far the factory bracket hangs. The axle end goes up 1 5/8".
Your jeeps front tire will no longer lift off the ground 2ft from moderate throttle on a hard left hand turn off of a stop light. Guys with lsd rear diffs get to drift around corners like driving a camaro with greatly reduced body roll even without a rear sway bar. The front end Bobbing and grasshopper effect.... Gone. The traction and stability is nothing short of amazing.
Rear steer and suspension bind is eliminated in a 12" travel range from a 2" bumpstop extension, using a 30" extended length outboard shock, which translates to a 16.5/17" spring free length depending on the angle the shock is hung.
if your 35" tires are hitting the evap can, it'll clear with properly adjusted arms after installation.
I do not make any front brackets. Any way you cut the mustard, the front end needs a mid arm even if they are only 24" links.
I have messed around with 2" taller axle mounts, 15" front upper and 26" lower arms with great success. It just doesn't compare to having a 3link mid arm.
Rear geometry correction brackets also work good with stock upper lengths 13.25-14.5" running a 22-26" lower arm without redrilling mounts but the pinion angle goes wonky if you are trying to run long travel shocks like the skyjacker long arm system offered. If we could still get a currie "j" arm, the geometry correction would compliment them very well.
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There you go. Worms are servedSo..... this is the fix for the can of worms you created as soon as you installed a 2" puck-6" lift on short arms. They even fix the "can of worms" you created by installing a metal cloak or rubicon express long arm system along with teraflex Enduro kit, skyjacker long arms and the rockmen Rockstar kit.
My main focus with this was at 3.5-4" lift with short arms, a stock track bar, stock exhaust, droped belly-flat belly, sye, and fuel tank clearance. We do not need adjustable control arms although they are highly recommended for a much easier installation. Upper arm holes are 7/16 to accommodate currie control arms. There haven't been any issues from having 10mm bolts in them.
Upon installation with short arms, the lower frame mounts have to be redrilled. The lower frame mount goes down 1" but is still basically the same clearance as it was because of how far the factory bracket hangs. The axle end goes up 1 5/8".
Your jeeps front tire will no longer lift off the ground 2ft from moderate throttle on a hard left hand turn off of a stop light. Guys with lsd rear diffs get to drift around corners like driving a camaro with greatly reduced body roll even without a rear sway bar. The front end Bobbing and grasshopper effect.... Gone. The traction and stability is nothing short of amazing.
Rear steer and suspension bind is eliminated in a 12" travel range from a 2" bumpstop extension, using a 30" extended length outboard shock, which translates to a 16.5/17" spring free length depending on the angle the shock is hung.
if your 35" tires are hitting the evap can, it'll clear with properly adjusted arms after installation.
I do not make any front brackets. Any way you cut the mustard, the front end needs a mid arm even if they are only 24" links.
I have messed around with 2" taller axle mounts, 15" front upper and 26" lower arms with great success. It just doesn't compare to having a 3link mid arm.
Rear geometry correction brackets also work good with stock upper lengths 13.25-14.5" running a 22-26" lower arm without redrilling mounts but the pinion angle goes wonky if you are trying to run long travel shocks like the skyjacker long arm system offered. If we could still get a currie "j" arm, the geometry correction would compliment them very well.
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They sold a short arm upper triangulated kit with the J-arms if my memory serves. I know several people who had them, but dont remember any geometry characteristics.No, they weren't flawed, I think they were improperly used/installed due to the geometry change they created on the axle end, the upper arms also needed to be relocated.
I never saw the triangulation kit if it existed. I do know for a fact that if a guy used the j arm with a full traction or rk short arm trilink, the result would be about the same as the geometry correction im doing because the lower axle mount relocated to the center of the axle tube 2" higher, and made the arm about 6" longer than in stock mounts.They sold a short arm upper triangulated kit with the J-arms if my memory serves. I know several people who had them, but dont remember any geometry characteristics.
You don’t think the loss in ground clearance was an issue? Just what I’ve heard in the past, never got my hand on a set. Makes sense that proper mounts could fix it.
Nothing for the lower as you just have to redrill the existing mounts. At the minimum you need new upper axle side brackets and Dave is also making upgraded upper frame side mounts.The kit comes with lower frame mounts and upper axle mounts?
Dave the triangulation kit included a new 9inch with the brackets welded on and the upper arms were canted to still fit the factory frame sided brackets that were reinforced.I never saw the triangulation kit if it existed. I do know for a fact that if a guy used the j arm with a full traction or rk short arm trilink, the result would be about the same as the geometry correction im doing because the lower axle mount relocated to the center of the axle tube 2" higher, and made the arm about 6" longer than in stock mounts.
That is a JK that Dave did a correction on.
Ok so that is indeed a TJ. The lowers are redrilled: