Brianj5600
TJ Expert
@Blackjack you helped me with the axle UCA mount measurement about a year and a half ago. I have been running my version for a little over a year with both LCA mounts relocated, trackbar raised and axle UCA mounts raised.
@Blackjack you helped me with the axle UCA mount measurement about a year and a half ago. I have been running my version for a little over a year with both LCA mounts relocated, trackbar raised and axle UCA mounts raised.
Ok, speaking of the j arm.... on that, it also didn't hang below the stock axle mount, I can hardly see an issue from it. Damn, look under a jk! Lol the shock mounts can almost touch the ground, lolThere no loss. The arm doesn't hang below the factory frame mount and its raised on the axle end. Still more clearance than a long or even a mid arm at that point besides a bracket below the frame to run into.
only the JK geometry correction kit come with lower frame mounts and upper axle mounts. the Tj's only need upper axle brackets.The kit comes with lower frame mounts and upper axle mounts?
Thanks for the great solution!Ok, speaking of the j arm.... on that, it also didn't hang below the stock axle mount, I can hardly see an issue from it. Damn, look under a jk! Lol the shock mounts can almost touch the ground, lol
only the JK geometry correction kit come with lower frame mounts and upper axle mounts. the Tj's only need upper axle brackets.
exactly.Ok so that is indeed a TJ. The lowers are redrilled:
1 inch down on the frame side
1 5/8 up on th axle side
The axle side uppers are relocated up. Now David will have to tell you how much his brackets move the upper but on the Nth Degree brackets I run it is either 2.5 or 3.5 inches.
So if you look at it this way what is being done is taking the control arms at four inches of lift and returning them to operating angles about where they would be with a budget boost. This moves the instant center forward, reduces roll steer, and by flattening the links some you can in most instances move the axle back in the wheel well a touch.
How has it worked for you?
exactly.
running at 3.5" above the stock bolt center with short arms creates a bind under articulation that will rip off the passenger upper frame mount, only under articulation... if you wanted to run it that high, mid arms are required. The other issue is the need for nearly 4" of bumpstop extension if you don't have a body lift. My brackets only require a 2" bumpstop extension so they accommodate the 2" lifts that have 14" or less collapsed shock lengths with 2" bumpstop extension.
The biggest thing I notice is that the new geometry all but eliminated wheel hop. Some trails that I struggled on I now just drive through. I don't know for sure if it is due to the geometry being better or just evolution of the trails. It seems like trails around me get harder and not easier. The dirt erodes and the rocks are more exposed.
likely that and the amount of bumpstop I'd assume you have with a 15.75" collapsed shock length, nth degree only used the high setting for the 5" lift height. I still have several drivers side track bar/control arm relocation brackets but no right hand uppers, along with a complete o3 up nth long arm system, all new parts in the original boxes. I was a nth dealer/installer and intend to hoard the parts forever.Interesting. I have been running at 3.5 for years now with no bracket issues. I wonder if it is due to my being limited running 10 inch travel shocks?
It's an awesome feeling!For me it was how predictable things became. There are a lot of steep tractionless climbs up here and now the rear just climbs or spins without upsetting the front.
likely that and the amount of bumpstop I'd assume you have with a 15.75" collapsed shock length, nth degree only used the high setting for the 5" lift height. I still have several drivers side track bar/control arm relocation brackets but no right hand uppers, along with a complete o3 up nth long arm system, all new parts in the original boxes. I was a nth dealer/installer and intend to hoard the parts forever.
I am running OME N67L (original ones) on first gen Nth shock shifters and bumps set for 5" up (50/50 split).
You do not have any of the Nth front short arm gyro stuff laying around would you? There is a measurement I am missing and cannot find anyone that has one that can help me out.
I do not make any front brackets. Any way you cut the mustard, the front end needs a mid arm even if they are only 24" links.
I have messed around with 2" taller axle mounts, 15" front upper and 26" lower arms with great success. It just doesn't compare to having a 3link mid arm.
I think Chris got most of his "deets" from Blackjack...
I posted everything I could find for the nth stuff, do a search
Blackjack,
Did you look in here for the information you need? Don't know if any of this contains what you need.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nth-degree-mobility-owners-resource-thread.34639/
Yes I am looking for one piece of information that even Jim Frens does not have anymore.
Yep the shiny catalog on there is my copy.That sucks. OK wasn't sure if you knew that was there.