DIY Bathroom Remodel

I am remodeling a bathroom and could use some advice. The vanity light is on a 15A circuit shared by another room's lights. The receptacle is on a 20A circuit shared by the other bathrooms and fed by a 20A GFCI breaker. I was wanting to install a fan and a light in the shower. I am wondering if they need to be on a GFCI circuit or can they simply be added to the 15A light circuit? And if they need to be GFCI protected, would it be better to run a new 20A circuit to this bath and remove it from the other circuits so that I can have the lights and receptacle on one circuit? The light I bought for the shower is rated for that use and the fan is just a vent, no heater or integrated light fixture. By the way, I am an electronics engineer with 20 yrs experience: 15 yrs in embedded microprocessor systems for missile guidance systems and now I work for Square D designing metering products. I have done some home wiring in the past, but that was before I had designed products that had to go through safety testing (UL 508, IEC 61010-1, etc.) So I am knowledgeable, but still somewhat new to the electrical code, and I just want to do things right so that it will be safe and legal when it comes time to sell the house.

I cant help you but others will jump in here and help, stay tuned
 
Well right off the bat if you work for Square D you’re going to be around some very experienced electrical people-

Codes vary in different areas- And everything changed dramatically in the last few years thanks to arc fault technology. Check your local guidelines is the universal answer.

In our area wet area fixtures must be GFCI protected, and sometimes electricians will install a separate ground fault device that can be reset to govern the lights/fan
in the shower- This is basically the same function as a GFCI plug without the plug part- and can be mounted at plug elevation anywhere.

Not knowing all you have going on, and panel room (A company called Square D makes a good one 😍) a separate circuit for each baths’ light fan, GFCI protected may be best, as fans require a good bit of amperage. Then you will need GFCI protected outlets on their own circuit for the vanity areas and walls. You may want to add one behind the toilet for a bidet seat. They are getting popular.

Also remember to install blocking for all your accessories and any possible grab bars.

Bathrooms are part of my core business like Remodeling Service Asheville NC.

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that's enough for me. thanks in advance your hell and suggestion.
 
I am remodeling a bathroom and could use some advice. The vanity light is on a 15A circuit shared by another room's lights. The receptacle is on a 20A circuit shared by the other bathrooms and fed by a 20A GFCI breaker. I was wanting to install a fan and a light in the shower. I am wondering if they need to be on a GFCI circuit or can they simply be added to the 15A light circuit? And if they need to be GFCI protected, would it be better to run a new 20A circuit to this bath and remove it from the other circuits so that I can have the lights and receptacle on one circuit? The light I bought for the shower is rated for that use and the fan is just a vent, no heater or integrated light fixture. By the way, I am an electronics engineer with 20 yrs experience: 15 yrs in embedded microprocessor systems for missile guidance systems and now I work for Square D designing metering products. I have done some home wiring in the past, but that was before I had designed products that had to go through safety testing (UL 508, IEC 61010-1, etc.) So I am knowledgeable, but still somewhat new to the electrical code, and I just want to do things right so that it will be safe and legal when it comes time to sell the house.

I just looked into this tonite as I'm going to replace the undersized fan that only exhausts into the attic with a better one vented outside. At the same time, I'm going to move it over the tub/shower. The general guideline is indeed the circuit needs a GFCI - AND - the fan/light needs to be rated for a damp location. I already located a fan/light that meets that spec - a bit more expensive than a "regular" one would be.
 
Some people like to put the fan on a timer switch so they can leave and it will turn off automatically and not run continuously.
 
Some people like to put the fan on a timer switch so they can leave and it will turn off automatically and not run continuously.

I do that all the time. I prefer the spring wound timers for simplicity and reliability. As far as the dead front GFCI, I've been known to put those in the closet next to the bath. We also like to hide the Jacuzzi tub GFCI in a closet if possible, if not we just use a GFCI breaker.

Anyone re-wiring a bath should consider a dedicated circuit for a bidet seat as a heated one can use 600-1400 watts. Sometimes we leave a wire in the wall if they are unsure, just leave it disconnected and labeled in the panel.

Some other tips, a wire from the main light switch to the water heater location so a recirc pump can be added at the WH and will activate when the bath light is switched on (the thermostatically controlled or timer controlled pumps run when not needed and wear out pre-maturely and waste energy, best to have wall switch control in conjunction with T-stat).

Floor heat under the tile.

A dedicated circuit for a heat/vent combo or heat lamps.

If you must have a niche, make it rounded. Those corners will be next to impossible to keep clean.

There are some very talented remodelers here and I don't claim to be one of them, these are just things I have picked up as an electrical contractor doing lots of kitchen and bath remodel wiring. I worked with plenty of designers :rolleyes:
 
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I do that all the time. I prefer the spring wound timers for simplicity and reliability. As far as the dead front GFCI, I've been known to put those in the closet next to the bath. We also like to hide the Jacuzzi tub GFCI in a closet if possible, if not we just use a GFCI breaker.

Anyone re-wiring a bath should consider a dedicated circuit for a bidet seat as a heated one can use 600-1400 watts. Sometimes we leave a wire in the wall if they are unsure, just leave it disconnected and labeled in the panel.

Some other tips, a wire from the main light switch to the water heater location so a recirc pump can be added at the WH and will activate when the bath light is switched on (the thermostatically controlled or timer controlled pumps run when not needed and wear out pre-maturely and waste fuel, best to have wall switch control in conjunction with T-stat).

Floor heat under the tile.

A dedicated circuit for a heat/vent combo or heat lamps.

If you must have a niche, make it rounded. Those corners will be next to impossible to keep clean.

There are some very talented remodelers here and I don't claim to be one of them, these are just things I have picked up as an electrical contractor doing lots of kitchen and bath remodel wiring. I worked with plenty of designers :rolleyes:

You sir are spot on.

I do a lot of bath remodels.

You would be welcome on my job anytime.

A3E2387E-5AB4-4F59-BF01-9B3CE4901ADB.jpeg
 
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Some people like to put the fan on a timer switch so they can leave and it will turn off automatically and not run continuously.

I've been doing this for many decades now. 60 minute spring wound timer, although I put a solid state jobber in a rental - I should ask the tenant how its making out.
 
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This is some of your best work @AndyG!

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Our breast work.

We had one customer that had playboy quality nude pictures of his wife on the bedroom wall.

I was like dude these guys won’t get anything done if you don’t take that down.

Then I was like isn’t that kind of like having a picture of your jeep on the dash of your jeep?