It sure sounded odd that eagle wouldn't make a 4.0l rod stock length.
Pay attention to the bore opening size of the head gaskets too.
Do-anything LJ build advice
- Thread starter Marklar1983
- Start date
It sure sounded odd that eagle wouldn't make a 4.0l rod stock length.
Pay attention to the bore opening size of the head gaskets too.
Talked with Russ for over a half hour today. He’s going to send me a quote, sounds like it will be about the same cost as the Clegg kit but specific to my build, so thanks for that advice!
NP
He reminds me of blaine(just not as much of a cranky old fker). Guy does good work and stands by it. Has sent out parts and then expected you to be honorable and pay for it afterwards.
Have a problem? No games,no bullshit.follow either of their recommdations to the letter and you will be taken care of.
Good price for what you get.who is doing the work? What cam?
I have pretty much the same as their upgrade list with the exception of Going full retard on custom 10.2:1 forged pistons,edelbrock head,and custom ground nitrided comp cam. Doing it again I'd think hard about a point lower compression and the cheaper rods,stock head and stock cam. At least where I'm at i may as well go full retard with a bigger cam and a custom tune
Russ offered a full-ported iron head to go with the rotating assembly. Doubles the cost, but he says that will push output to 300hp/375ftlb. Was your build worth it? How do you like driving it?
If I remember right a full ported iron head flows better than an out of the box edelbrock head(but not a ported eddy). I did some bowl work and flashing cleanup on my eddy and have a smallish cam. It has more power below 3000rpm than my old 4.0l had at any rpms,gets better mpg's and can get out of hand if you keep your foot down.
To answer your question kinda,if I wasn't in california(smog) and didn't want a quiet hunting jeep(stock exhaust) I would have done an LS swap and had a hot rod that got 17 mpgs.
Take a hard look at what you are spending,what you want and if you can get away with it.
New heater core from BrassWorks is on the way, ahead of schedule. Only ordered a month ago.
Aluminum core started leaking after only 3 years. I want this to be the last time I replace it.
Aluminum core started leaking after only 3 years. I want this to be the last time I replace it.
Good advice.
Final spec:
4.7L
SCR: 9.7:1
DCR: 8.4:1 (7.6 at altitude)
Quench 0.032
Final BOM:
-Scat cast steel 3.895” crank
-Scat forged 4.0L rods from Russ Pottenger, bored and bushed for 0.927” LS floating pins.
-Moly piston rings
-Russ’s custom Race Tec forged pistons, +0.060 over, 24cc dish
-Engine Pro roller chain timing set
-CompCams 168-201-5 bump stick
-CompCams hydraulic lifters
-FlowKooler high flow water pump
-factory pushrods and valve train with new Melling springs
Edit: added a couple brands that I missed
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Engine is at the machinist. Bores are coming out beautifully. He found 3 bent exhaust valves (minor, but noticeable), so those are getting replaced.
Price just the rotating assembly of a 4.6l vs a 4.0l. Strokers don't need to be expensive.And you don't need to change almost every other aspect of your drivetrain and supporting systems.($$$)
You are right though,dollars per hp most engines can't beat an LS.
I got a parts motor to build from a pic and pull at half off day. The motor swap was quick.
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Me too. This is not what I planned when I pulled the engine for repairs, so there’s been a lot of scope creep. Probably could have built a LS, but packaging and integrating it is not something I wanted to get into. I’m not looking for Ultra4 power, just a boost for around town and off-roading.
Learned from my machinist that exhaust valves 1, 2, & 3 are bent. Probably contributed to the shitty power and efficiency since I bought the Jeep.
Rolled Over Rubi
Member
is the edel head any better than the oem head then? 1.8k is pretty damn steep for what it is. I used to wanna LS swap but got discouraged when I needed to find a pcm, harness, tranny, and end up buying custom driveshafts, there were some other stuff along with it of course but couldn't find it in my heart to spend that much money on everything for the swap. at the moment im thinking i'll stroke the 4.0l to 4.6 or 4.7, bore over .30, not sure of the cam, run edel head or port oem, new valvetrain, bigger injects, and new manifolds for better breathing. thought about supercharging as well but I don't know whether to do it now or later
I’m over $5k in at this point. Could get much more benefit from an LS for not much more, but I don’t have the fab skills (yet) for an engine swap like that. Biggest advantage to a stroker is it bolts in.
I don't know man, an LS swap for "not much more" than $5k sounds superr low unless you're personally fabbing basically everything.
And not needing months for time to fab things up and make the suspension and all work is definitely not nothing. I think the stroker is a good and cool option.
Rolled Over Rubi
Member
maybe but then you gotta fab mounts for tranny, engine, if you keep tcase you gotta do adapter plates otherwise new tcase, front and rear driveshafts, pcm, wiring harness, relocation of steering shaft, custom exhaust, new speedo unless you do some with the harness and pcm, conversion to throttle by cable unless you swap out for throttle by wire depending on model of LS. im also planning on doing all this at an automotive school within the span of about one and half to two months. An engine swap is also gonna end up causing problems I wouldn't think i'd run into. At the moment a stroker and supercharger sounds easiest than swapping the drivetrain an redoing the brains of the vehicle
Buy a display that reads everything from the OBD2, display whatever information you want from it and includes gps speedo.
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