Do I torque sway bar end links with weight on or off suspension?

97' 4 Popper

Opened a Can of Worms
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2020
Messages
682
Location
CNY
Does the weight of the vehicle have to be on the suspension by having the axle jacked up or the tires on the ground? Or can I torque it down to spec with the suspension drooped?

Also is it easier to do both links at once or one at a time?
 
Okay, so far I've got the top bolts out but having a hard time with the bottoms. I got the driver side to spin but now I need to hold the t55 in place. The passenger side I'm having a hard time getting the bolt to turn, there's hardly any space in front on the track bar bracket. I got a small set of metric crowfoot wrenches and of course it's missing the 18mm I need.
 
Also the oem washer is large enough to cover the entire bushing, where as my washers are regular size. I'm guessing I need to reuse those old washers?
 
IF you are replacing the OEM sway bar links with new OEM links; then you can reuse use the lower mounting hardware. The new links should come with new upper lock nuts.
I am replacing the original/stock length links with oem replacement stock length, but the new links only come with a top nut. The bolt and nut I want to use on the bottom fits nicely it seems, but the washers are small and won't cover the whole bushing. Not sure if that's a problem but so far I can reuse all of the lower mounting hardware if I have to.
 
I am replacing the original/stock length links with oem replacement stock length, but the new links only come with a top nut. The bolt and nut I want to use on the bottom fits nicely it seems, but the washers are small and won't cover the whole bushing. Not sure if that's a problem but so far I can reuse all of the lower mounting hardware if I have to.
The lower hardware fit fine with the new links that I installed when I first purchased the Jeep.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
The lower hardware fit fine with the new links that I installed when I first purchased the Jeep.

Yea I can use either the old or new hardware I have and it will fit, but the washers I bought don't distribute the force over the whole bushing when tightening. That was my question basically whether that matters, in either case I'm going to look for washers of that diameter to buy for the next time.

I currently have both sway bars links disconnected, just need to pull the top studs free now. I'm using a tie rod end puller, making sure to stay clear of the sway bar link when it does pop.
 
Yea I can use either the old or new hardware I have and it will fit, but the washers I bought don't distribute the force over the whole bushing when tightening. That was my question basically whether that matters, in either case I'm going to look for washers of that diameter to buy for the next time.

I currently have both sway bars links disconnected, just need to pull the top studs free now. I'm using a tie rod end puller, making sure to stay clear of the sway bar link when it does pop.
When I removed the upper stud from the sway bar I used a bearing puller, but it performs the same function.
Apply pressure with the puller and then tap on the side of the sway bar with a ball peen hammer.
Works nicely. (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
When I removed the upper stud from the sway bar I used a bearing puller, but it performs the same function.
Apply pressure with the puller and then tap on the side of the sway bar with a ball peen hammer.
Works nicely. (y)

It took a lot of four letter words and resetting the puller so that it sat evenly on the stud, using a spoon as a base. But I got them both out. One of them sort of just broke free, the other popped and hit the floor with a nice amount of force.
 
Well I somehow managed to completely mess up what should have been a simple reinstall. I removed both links. When I went to install the sway bar links the sway bar itself wouldn't drop low enough to press the top link stud in. I thought to jack up the axle a bit to get it closer to the sway bar. Before I could do that I broke the glue holding the ball joint on the new link in place so that it doesn't spin, and now the nut is stuck on the stud and the link is stuck in place with the stud spinning. Not sure if vise grips would even be enough to stop the stud from moving.
 
The sway bar links that I installed had a recessed allen inside the stud which allowed you to hold the stud from moving while you tightened the nut.
I read about those types of studs, pretty sure I don't have those. It turns out all I had to do was play around with the axle. The pressure stopped the stud from spinning, then I would have to keep jacking it up to tighten further. The only issue is I can't really click torque it like that, I'm basically just counting the threads and trying to keep them equal until I "feel" it's enough.