Do my TJ lift and re-gear plans make sense? (33s)

[Gibsonfirebird12]

I'm close to wanting to pull the trigger to get my TJ on 33's, lifted, locked and regeared. I toyed with the idea of 31s for a while but I think I will benefit from the extra clearance of 33's. Also toyed with the idea of an LJ but after test driving one, decided to keep my TJ.

To give some background, my Jeep is a 2001 TJ with 32RH 3 Speed on stock 3.07 gears. right now it is on a 2" teraflex coil lift with 30x9.5s, open open Dana 30/Dana 35. The Jeep will be used for off roading in the New England woods and also daily road travel. I want plenty of articulation and clearance while still keeping the Jeep somewhat nimble, and I do expect to see rocks from time to time. The Jeep will be my DD for at least a while. As far as money goes, this is way more than I ever considered spending on my TJ, so I do want to keep cost to a minimum but I have a fairly open budget to do it the right way.

Hoping y'all can "review" my research and work and make sure it all makes sense.

I'm stuck between a few options. to get the "easy stuff" out of the way first, I'm pretty sure I want:

4.10 re-gear
super 35 kit
front and rear ARB lockers
BFG KO2s 33x10.5. Going for 10.5 to keep weight down, help with on-road snow travel and keep me as skinny as possible.
MORyde hinge reinforcement (already have MORyde hinges, so just need to add reinforcement plate)

now with that out of the way, the part I'm debating more. I seem to have two options for lifts.

Option 1: I can buy the Zone 4.25" combo lift and be done with it. In fact, I like the idea that I can install this kit now as is with my Jeep, and ride it as is without BL til I get the other work done. I like the simplicity of the kit, that everything you need comes with it, and I can probably do install myself. and of course the price is very nice. no need for SYE or new driveshaft (see note below)

Option 2: I can piece together my own lift with parts I have seen recommended around the forum. sounds like this would likely be a 1.25" savvy BL, OME springs and 10mm spacers, and rancho shocks. I am guessing there are other things I'd need in this kit, such as a MML, but not entirely sure what they are. Would SYE and new driveshaft be needed for this?

Note: I am also considering a tummy tuck. Always wanted one but the work and money involved with one seems high and the more I read about it the more I get turned off by the idea... At the very least, I'm guessing I'd need an SYE and new driveshaft. Would rear shock relocation, adjustable UCAs, and some of the other stuff listed in this thread be absolutely necessary?

I've always been a Teraflex guy coming from the JK world but their pricing is just way too over the top for a TJ lift IMO, so I won't be considering any of their options.

Appreciate any thoughts you all have.

 

[JMT]

I'm close to wanting to pull the trigger to get my TJ on 33's, lifted, locked and regeared. I toyed with the idea of 31s for a while but I think I will benefit from the extra clearance of 33's. Also toyed with the idea of an LJ but after test driving one, decided to keep my TJ.

To give some background, my Jeep is a 2001 TJ with 32RH 3 Speed on stock 3.07 gears. right now it is on a 2" teraflex coil lift with 30x9.5s, open open Dana 30/Dana 35. The Jeep will be used for off roading in the New England woods and also daily road travel. I want plenty of articulation and clearance while still keeping the Jeep somewhat nimble, and I do expect to see rocks from time to time. The Jeep will be my DD for at least a while. As far as money goes, this is way more than I ever considered spending on my TJ, so I do want to keep cost to a minimum but I have a fairly open budget to do it the right way.

Hoping y'all can "review" my research and work and make sure it all makes sense.

I'm stuck between a few options. to get the "easy stuff" out of the way first, I'm pretty sure I want:

4.10 re-gear
super 35 kit
front and rear ARB lockers
BFG KO2s 33x10.5. Going for 10.5 to keep weight down, help with on-road snow travel and keep me as skinny as possible.
MORyde hinge reinforcement (already have MORyde hinges, so just need to add reinforcement plate)

now with that out of the way, the part I'm debating more. I seem to have two options for lifts.

Option 1: I can buy the Zone 4.25" combo lift and be done with it. In fact, I like the idea that I can install this kit now as is with my Jeep, and ride it as is without BL til I get the other work done. I like the simplicity of the kit, that everything you need comes with it, and I can probably do install myself. and of course the price is very nice. no need for SYE or new driveshaft (see note below)

Option 2: I can piece together my own lift with parts I have seen recommended around the forum. sounds like this would likely be a 1.25" savvy BL, OME springs and 10mm spacers, and rancho shocks. I am guessing there are other things I'd need in this kit, such as a MML, but not entirely sure what they are. Would SYE and new driveshaft be needed for this?

Note: I am also considering a tummy tuck. Always wanted one but the work and money involved with one seems high and the more I read about it the more I get turned off by the idea... At the very least, I'm guessing I'd need an SYE and new driveshaft. Would rear shock relocation, adjustable UCAs, and some of the other stuff listed in this thread be absolutely necessary?

I've always been a Teraflex guy coming from the JK world but their pricing is just way too over the top for a TJ lift IMO, so I won't be considering any of their options.

Appreciate any thoughts you all have.

With those options I’d do the Zone combo. For TT you do need rear UCA, rear LCA, SS SYE, DC, and angled rear TB relocation bracket. You do not need rear shock relocation. The rest of the build is sound.

You might want to upgrade steering. You’ll want 4340 Chromoly shafts for the Dana 30 since you’ll be locked. Extended rear sway bar links. Quick disconnects or AntiRock up front. Adjustable TB’s.

 

[Gibsonfirebird12]

With those options I’d do the Zone combo. For TT you do need rear UCA, rear LCA, SS SYE, DC, and angled rear TB relocation bracket. You do not need rear shock relocation. The rest of the build is sound.

You might want to upgrade steering. You’ll want 4340 Chromoly shafts for the Dana 30 since you’ll be locked. Extended rear sway bar links. Quick disconnects or AntiRock up front. Adjustable TB’s.

Got it on 4340 shafts. It looks like the zone lift comes with rear and front sway bar links, there's an option for front disconnects. In the interest of keeping cost to a minimum, I'd probably just stick with the quick disconnects that the kit comes with unless they're terrible.

Adjustable TB’s.

Do you mean adjustable trackbars? are they required?

 

[TheBoogieman]

What is the Zone combo lift? (JK)
p.s. I've used them on 5 of my Jeeps. Good basic kit and easy to upgrade if you want to.

 

[Gibsonfirebird12]

What is the Zone combo lift? (JK)
p.s. I've used them on 5 of my Jeeps. Good basic kit and easy to upgrade if you want to.
View attachment 325801

Looks great! how does it ride?

 

[TheBoogieman]

With those options I’d do the Zone combo. For TT you do need rear UCA, rear LCA, SS SYE, DC, and angled rear TB relocation bracket. You do not need rear shock relocation. The rest of the build is sound.

You might want to upgrade steering. You’ll want 4340 Chromoly shafts for the Dana 30 since you’ll be locked. Extended rear sway bar links. Quick disconnects or AntiRock up front. Adjustable TB’s.

You spend other people's money faster than my wife.

 

[TheBoogieman]

View attachment 325803

Looks great! how does it ride?

Ride is excellent. I had the Zone hydro shocks that were discontinued for their black nitro shocks. I switched to Rancho rs5000x shocks, which are usually an option with that kit.
p.s. you need to put on some underwear. This is a public forum and your butt rash is showing.

 

[GPK03X]

What about keeping the 2 inch lift and adding a 1 inch spring spacer along with a body lift? I don’t know if the shocks would work but Teraflex lists the same shock for 2 and 3 inch lift

 

[Gibsonfirebird12]

What about keeping the 2 inch lift and adding a 1 inch spring spacer along with a body lift? I don’t know if the shocks would work but Teraflex lists the same shock for 2 and 3 inch lift

I thought about that idea to keep cost even lower, but to be honest, I want to do this the right way. I'm sure this would work, wouldn't be the ideal scenario for me.

 

[JMT]

Got it on 4340 shafts. It looks like the zone lift comes with rear and front sway bar links, there's an option for front disconnects. In the interest of keeping cost to a minimum, I'd probably just stick with the quick disconnects that the kit comes with unless they're terrible.


Do you mean adjustable trackbars? are they required?

Yes, @2.5” or more of lift you’ll need adjustable TB’s to center the axles under the rig. Good you already have front 4340 shafts!

 

[primetime4]

i have the same lift and recently took a very similar route upgrading to 33 inch KM3s. My 2 inch teraflex springs netted me 2.5 inches of lift. You can measure and confirm how much lift you actually have. Based on that, adding a Savvy 1.25 body lift was sufficient to clear 33s maybe with room to spare. I am running an Antirock so that might limit travel a bit but there are no clearance issues at full flex.

Along with the body lift I would recommend a motor mount lift and Savvy cable shifter. 4.10 is also what I regeared to and no complaints there.

 

[pagrey]

I might start with the body lift, there's no reason you couldn't just add the Zone 3" after to make the combo lift. The body lift is the one thing that is pretty much the same no matter what direction you go, especially if a tuck in on the radar. I wouldn't personally buy springs with the intent of adding spacers but other than that I don't really see anything wrong with whatever direction you choose. If you do end up piecing things together you might research Black Max shocks as well.

 

[Gibsonfirebird12]

i have the same lift and recently took a very similar route upgrading to 33 inch KM3s. My 2 inch teraflex springs netted me 2.5 inches of lift. You can measure and confirm how much lift you actually have. Based on that, adding a Savvy 1.25 body lift was sufficient to clear 33s maybe with room to spare. I am running an Antirock so that might limit travel a bit but there are no clearance issues at full flex.

Along with the body lift I would recommend a motor mount lift and Savvy cable shifter. 4.10 is also what I regeared to and no complaints there.

View attachment 325805

View attachment 325806

View attachment 325807

I did actually measure my TF lift a week or two ago, and I netted 2.5" in the front and 1.5" in the rear. With a 1.25" savvy kit, that would put me at 3.75" front, 2.75" rear. Is that enough? Seems like the rear wouldn't be.

edit:

I am also running a steinjager cable shifter, so I should be good in that regard.

 

[TRE3TOP]

4.10 on 33s will be a good DD. 4.56 would be better off-road. Just a thought.

He only has a 3 speed transmission. I would lean towards an Eaton E locker over ARB’s. 4340 shafts would be good insurance for the front, but i wouldn’t call them a necessity on 33” ko2’s.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Good choice on the 4.10 for 33's with your 32RH automatic. Height-wise, my usual recommendation for 33's is 3" plus a 1" to 1.25" body lift for a total of 4-4.25" of clearance. X2 to the 4340 front shaft recommendation due to the front locker.

 

[Gibsonfirebird12]

One thing to note is that the 33x10.5 BFGs supposedly measure 32.5", not actual "33s" - would that make a difference for gearing, and is it possible I could get away with 3.75"/2.75" (front/rear) of lift? Again, I want to do it the right way, but if I could run 33s without getting rid of my lift, I wouldn't hate it.

 

[primetime4]

I did actually measure my TF lift a week or two ago, and I netted 2.5" in the front and 1.5" in the rear. With a 1.25" savvy kit, that would put me at 3.75" front, 2.75" rear. Is that enough? Seems like the rear wouldn't be.

edit:

I am also running a steinjager cable shifter, so I should be good in that regard.

Are you carrying extra weight in the back? That would be cutting it too close and sounds like there may be some sagging going on so worth getting new springs anyway. But you should be able to tell from the side profile if there is a rake or if the body sits level. Factory stance will have a slight rake.

One other thing to consider is KO2s tend to run small so you probably won’t need max height to fit them. I switched from KO2 to KM3 and both ran small. I would still start with the Savvy body lift. It’s worth any minor inconvenience with fulfillment and keeps your options open for a tuck without changing your driveline.

 

[bobthetj03]

Don't be afraid of the coil spacers. You have the springs, and sounds like the advertised lift they provide. 1" spacers will put you in the 3" lift range, so your shock choice can be done. Why spend funds on different springs when spacers will net you the same result.
Do the BL and MML first and together, then add the spacers when you get the 33's. Also consider upgrading your brakes. BMB's.

 

[Gibsonfirebird12]

Are you carrying extra weight in the back? That would be cutting it too close and sounds like there may be some sagging going on so worth getting new springs anyway. But you should be able to tell from the side profile if there is a rake or if the body sits level. Factory stance will have a slight rake.

One other thing to consider is KO2s tend to run small so you probably won’t need max height to fit them. I switched from KO2 to KM3 and both ran small. I would still start with the Savvy body lift. It’s worth any minor inconvenience with fulfillment and keeps your options open for a tuck without changing your driveline.

My guess is that it is my after-market smittybilt bumper that's mostly causing the sag. I have an SRC classic bumper, it's heavier than the stock one. I also have my rear seat in as well as an instatrunk, and I have a hard top (it's aftermarket, slightly lighter than the stock). All that is to say, yes it's probably sagging in the back a bit.

 

[GPK03X]

My guess is that it is my after-market smittybilt bumper that's mostly causing the sag. I have an SRC classic bumper, it's heavier than the stock one. I also have my rear seat in as well as an instatrunk, and I have a hard top (it's aftermarket, slightly lighter than the stock). All that is to say, yes it's probably sagging in the back a bit.

I’ve got the Teraflex 2 inch lift with the dreaded XRC bumpers front and rear and winch. I’m getting 2 inches front and back with soft top, half doors and 32 inch spare on the tailgate. Added MML to get rid of slight vibes. Then went down the rabbit hole with tummy tuck and all that’s involved with that. Any way i agree that the OP could add a spring spacer on the rear if needed.