I'm curious... do RCV axles really offer a big advantage over a traditional u-joint axle shaft (or whatever they're called)?
Do RCV axles offer a significant advantage over standard axles?
- Thread starter TJDave
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From what I've read, the answers to this question are in the same category as manual vs. automatic transmission - which is better?...
derekmac
TJ Addict
When you have your wheels turned hard to one side or the other, the RCV's are much stronger than a u-joint.
It's true that u-joints are under the most most load when the steering is turned all the way. But that is not to say you can't upgrade the shafts and u-joints to completely alleviate that as a concern, which can be done for substantially less than what RCV shafts sell for.
I did break my front OE (factory) passenger-side stub shaft at its ear (the part that holds the u-joint) while giving it a little too much gas while my steering wheel was cranked all the way left. Which was on an exceptionally difficult trail, Sledgehammer in Johnson Valley. So that does illustrate your point Derekmac.
But upgrading the shafts to hardened alloy really eliminates that issue. I no longer had a broken shaft or u-joint issue after the upgrade, and I didn't even go with 30 spline shafts on my previous TJ's Dana 30. I went with alloy 27 spline shafts from Warn (no longer made by Warn) and have not had a breakage since. I'm now running 30 spline alloys up front but even 27 spline shafts work fine for 35's and a locker so long as they are good quality hardened alloys like are sold by Revolution Gear & Axle.
So personally, I'd just go with alloy shafts and a good strong u-joint like a Spicer 5-760x. That and avoiding cheaper store-brand u-joints will give a good reliable axle shaft.
I have not had an axle problem or breakage since upgrading the shafts to alloys back in 2003. I've broken other stuff, my steering box crapped the bed on my next trip up Sledgehammer for one example, but my axles have been solid once they got alloy shafts in them. I still use u-joints and I have no desire to go with RCVs.
The pic shows the broken stub shaft 'ear' that happened on Sledgehammer in JV. The ears are not hardened on factory shafts so when there is enough load on the u-joint, the ears will stretch or break and allow the u-joint bearing cap to pull out of the ear. That allows the u-joint to then spin around and bust up. So the order of breakage is the u-joint ear, then the u-joint... the u-joint is seldom the first thing to break with factory shafts.
I did break my front OE (factory) passenger-side stub shaft at its ear (the part that holds the u-joint) while giving it a little too much gas while my steering wheel was cranked all the way left. Which was on an exceptionally difficult trail, Sledgehammer in Johnson Valley. So that does illustrate your point Derekmac.
But upgrading the shafts to hardened alloy really eliminates that issue. I no longer had a broken shaft or u-joint issue after the upgrade, and I didn't even go with 30 spline shafts on my previous TJ's Dana 30. I went with alloy 27 spline shafts from Warn (no longer made by Warn) and have not had a breakage since. I'm now running 30 spline alloys up front but even 27 spline shafts work fine for 35's and a locker so long as they are good quality hardened alloys like are sold by Revolution Gear & Axle.
So personally, I'd just go with alloy shafts and a good strong u-joint like a Spicer 5-760x. That and avoiding cheaper store-brand u-joints will give a good reliable axle shaft.
I have not had an axle problem or breakage since upgrading the shafts to alloys back in 2003. I've broken other stuff, my steering box crapped the bed on my next trip up Sledgehammer for one example, but my axles have been solid once they got alloy shafts in them. I still use u-joints and I have no desire to go with RCVs.
The pic shows the broken stub shaft 'ear' that happened on Sledgehammer in JV. The ears are not hardened on factory shafts so when there is enough load on the u-joint, the ears will stretch or break and allow the u-joint bearing cap to pull out of the ear. That allows the u-joint to then spin around and bust up. So the order of breakage is the u-joint ear, then the u-joint... the u-joint is seldom the first thing to break with factory shafts.
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As usually, Jerry is spot on.
I have RCV axles (but I got them for a steal). If I had to do it over again, I would get some Revolution chromoly axle shafts and some Spicer 5-760x u-joints. I haven't heard of anyone breaking that sort of setup yet.
I think the RCVs are nice, but they seem like they're probably a bit overkill for the majority of us. Not to mention the cost is quite high!
I have RCV axles (but I got them for a steal). If I had to do it over again, I would get some Revolution chromoly axle shafts and some Spicer 5-760x u-joints. I haven't heard of anyone breaking that sort of setup yet.
I think the RCVs are nice, but they seem like they're probably a bit overkill for the majority of us. Not to mention the cost is quite high!
I was looking at / for Revolution axle shafts and didn't see any heat treated chromoly axle shafts for the Dana 35 (rear), did I just miss them?
I just looked and it doesn't appear they offer a Dana 35 rear kit. That's odd...
@4LowParts, do you know why this is?
Look for them on www.4lowparts.com where there is a more complete listing.
I looked at 4LowParts but couldn't find Dana 35 rear shafts... Maybe I'm not looking hard enough.
Thanks Jerry, I knew I was missing something along the way.Look for them on www.4lowparts.com where there is a more complete listing.
Post the link if you find them, because I can't find Dana 35 Revolution axles at all, not even on Revolution's website.
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/axles-and-gears/super-35-rear-axle-kit-dana-35-30-spline/
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/axles-and-gears/super-35-rear-axle-kit-arb-air-locker-Dana 35-30spl/
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/axles-and-gears/super-35-rear-axle-kit-detroit-locker-dana-35/
Okay, I must have accidentally landed in the JK section or something. Go figure...
Looks like they have 27 spline alloy Yukons for the Dana 35, but not Revolution axles.
Updated to add: Alrighty then...it looks like it's either Yukons with a Trutrac or 30 spline Revolutions with a Detroit then.
Thanks again Jerry.
Updated to add: Alrighty then...it looks like it's either Yukons with a Trutrac or 30 spline Revolutions with a Detroit then.
Thanks again Jerry.
I loved my first TJ's Detroit Locker, it was stupid-simple, stupid-strong, and just plain worked extremely well for me. I often wish I still had it over my Rubicon air locker. I guess because my Detroit Locker (and front No-Slip locker) spoiled me so badly that I sometimes forget to flip the switches to engage my air lockers haha.
I know what you are saying there, Jerry. I had a Detroit in a '73 3/4 ton Chevy a number of years ago. Reliable and bullet proof. Not as much fun as one would expect in very slick, off camber situations though.
Edited to add: If you don't mind @Jerry Bransford and @Chris, I'm going to move this very pertinent discussion over to a new thread, so this one doesn't get more off topic more than it already is.
Edited to add: If you don't mind @Jerry Bransford and @Chris, I'm going to move this very pertinent discussion over to a new thread, so this one doesn't get more off topic more than it already is.
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Icy slick off-camber situations is where I wouldn't want an automatic locker like the Detroit either. That's really their downfall and where they earned their somewhat humorous "low-side finder" reputation. I'd only not want a Detroit if I wheeled in those conditions, fortunately I do not.
I snapped on of those solid ujoints on the Z turn, Moab Rim. Didn't know it until we got to the top and I happened to look at the front drivers side axle. My wife walked back down the trail to the turn and was picking up small,pieces all the way. My Force Ten axle ears were shot. I unlocked the hub on that side, lock my front and came down in 3 wheel drive.
Northridge handled to warranty replacement for me but the chromoly axle was shot. Just FYI I don't pound/bounce my rig.
Northridge handled to warranty replacement for me but the chromoly axle was shot. Just FYI I don't pound/bounce my rig.
Force Ten alloy axle shafts? Never heard of them. Do you mean Ten Factory? Like Alloy USA, I personally wouldn't put Ten Factory on my short list of desirable aftermarket axle brands to choose from.