Does a 2" lift need different bump stops?

Brokeass Boater

Brokeass Boater

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First off I apologize if this is on some previous threads, my computer took a Shit and I'm using a small tablet for now and I can't get these 63 yr old eyes to focus for too long on a smaller screen. I bought the OME springs and Rancho 5000 shocks 0-2" lift that most have suggested here. Will I need to do something with the bump stops, if so I'll order them before I do the install. Also if I should notice a vibration from the drive train after the install, I'll get the TC drop kit, but which? I see some urethane, urethane w/metal sleeves, all Metal, I won't be rock crawling, but I do want to get done right the first time when everything is apart,,,gregg
 
You won't necessarily need bumpstops simply by virtue of raising the ride height.

You need bump stop extensions if you change something in a way that causes undesirable contact to happen before your factory bump stops prevent it.

Examples would include longer shocks (shouldn't be the case if you bought shocks for 0" lift), an aftermarket track bar that doesn't clear the front diff cover, larger tires hitting the fenders, a rear track bar bracket hitting the tub floor in front of the fuel tank or in some cases, springs that have coils in sufficient number and spacing that it stacks up solid.

Around here we usually tell people to pull their springs out and cycle their suspension with the frame on jack stands to check the full extent of travel...but if you're just putting on a 2" lift with a stock track bar, stock length shocks and stock tire size, I'd have a hard time thinking of anything that's going to hit in front. Every lift I've ever installed though had a track bar bracket in the rear that sticks up a couple inches from the axle, and that might be worth checking. Mine is about 1/4" from the floor with 2" bump stop extensions.
 
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Brokeass Boater said:
Rancho 5000 shocks 0-2" lift that most have suggested here.
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wait a minute...have you installed these already? Rancho makes a 5000 and a 5000x - the one with the x is the one that comes recommended here. the 5000 is valved too stiff for a TJ. Mine came with them...washboard roads beat me to death. I'll be swapping to the 5000x in the next few weeks.
 
Great detail, thank you. Pretty much trails for some hunting and some stream fishing in the Sierra's, so when the current 29" tires wear down, I'm going to 31". That'll be it for me as far as any suspension mods. I have 3.73 gears with the 42le trans, so im thinking with my plans I should be fine. This place is a awesome site for me, I had no idea how sensitive these little rigs where to some mods that I have done on my full size trucks over the years. Plus I'm retired and can't put in some overtime now to pay for this kind of playing around like I used to,,,gregg
 
Hmm,
freedom_in_4low said:
wait a minute...have you installed these already? Rancho makes a 5000 and a 5000x - the one with the x is the one that comes recommended here. the 5000 is valved too stiff for a TJ. Mine came with them...washboard roads beat me to death. I'll be swapping to the 5000x in the next few weeks.
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The just came today. I don't see a x on the box or on the shock it self, the little decal that came in the box has a x lol. Part numbers are rs55240 and rd 55128. Are they wrong ones?gregg
 
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Brokeass Boater said:
I will if you think it will be needed for this lift. I think I see where you might be headed with 4low's response, is there not much clearance for that bracket?,,,gregg
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Yours will be straight up from the back of the bracket, not bent forward like mine, but it does stick up a couple of inches from the stock axle bracket.

20200216_140151.jpg
 
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Brokeass Boater said:
I will if you think it will be needed for this lift. I think I see where you might be headed with 4low's response, is there not much clearance for that bracket?,,,gregg
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You can probably get away without the bracket, but just be aware that your rear axle will be off center a bit. Another option would be to get an adjustable TB. If you install the bracket you'll want to add 1" bumpstop extensions to the rear or the bracket could pinch the fuel pump wiring harness if the rear bottoms out.
 
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Are you changing control arms or rear driveshaft? If not then there isn't a need to use the trackbar relocation bracket. Everything will be in the stock geometry location. If you are rotating the rear axle for better pinion angle then you will need the bracket.
I am talking about an ANGLED bracket. If what you have dosen't change the angle of the trackbar mounting then use it. It is solely for centering the rear axle after the lift. The angled one is to realign the trackbar mount after rotating the rear axle.
 
i'd use a bracket, once the rear suspension has been lifted. 2" should only require a straight bracket and be 1/2 the cost of an adjustable bar that won't truly correct the whole issue that's been created.

at 2" the offset a straight bracket might force should be less than an crooked bracket would.
 
I'll take a few measurements of the axles before I start so I'll have a baseline to judge any changes and the appropriate corrections from you boys. As far as pinon angle goes I figured a TC drop would be a good way to go, I don't see me worrying about that reduced clearance in that area,,,gregg
 
When you lift a TJ you are changing the roll center of the track bars. This is why most kits include the relocation bracket so you can keep the TB angled similar to where it was before the lift. Read up on rear roll center and how raising/lower the TB effects handling.
 
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OK, now you all got me looking at rear TB relocating brackets for my 2” lift! :unsure:
So, do we not need a TB relocation bracket for the front axle as well? Just wondering. My OCD will not allow me to have uncentered axles!:LOL:
 
They don't make one as far as I know. You can drill a new hole in the axle side mount (don't recommend this), get an adjustable bar (what most do. I did.), or live with the axle slightly off center(which is fine). The front I picked kept the stock mounting on both the axle and frame. Most want you to drill out the frame side mount hole. I wanted to be able to return to stock if I want to. Mine also adjusted up by the frame mount . A lot of them adjust by the axle. And require you to pull the axle side out to adjust length. That's a pain in the ass. I can adjust easily right at the frame. It's a Rubicon Express #7572.
 
76CJQuadratrac said:
OK, now you all got me looking at rear TB relocating brackets for my 2” lift! :unsure:
So, do we not need a TB relocation bracket for the front axle as well? Just wondering. My OCD will not allow me to have uncentered axles!:LOL:
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They exist, but you don't want a relocation bracket for the front because then your track bar won't be parallel to your drag link and you'll get bump steer.

When I bought my TJ it had a drop pitman arm, which decreased the pitch of the drag link relative to the ground, and a track bar relocation bracket on the axle that lowered the track bar, increasing the pitch relative to the ground...doubling up on the bump steer. Add that on to the fact that the frame end of the track bar was worn out and loose and the 360 mile drive home (including a mountain pass) was downright terrifying.
 
Goatman said:
You can drill a new hole in the axle side mount (don't recommend this)
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I've done this before. I regretted it almost immediately when I saw how much metal was left around the hole. Then when I start thinking about upgrading track bars and having to drill the original hole out larger, there would have been even less meat left. A shop quoted me more to replace the bracket than I spent buying a HP axle (which ended up being about $50 once I parted out the stuff I didn't switch over from the TJ axle)
 
Fouledplugs said:
Of 2 inch spring that I know of, only BDS coils can be pressed flat together and be ok afterwards. Just an FYI for future readers.

OME springs should be bumped before complete coil compression.
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Wow, good info...I was speaking in generalities thinking of my reading that MC 3.5 springs needed like 3" of rear bump stop for this reason. I wouldn't have even thought a 2" spring could reach coil bind before factory bumps.

What's special about BDS springs that they can go to bind without yielding but no one elses can?
 
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