Does a P0016 code mean I need to replace the OPDA?

CybrSlydr

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None of the threads I've read are very clear on this. Maybe a cam position sensor. Maybe OPDA. Maybe something else - I don't want to spend $300 on parts if it's just one of these.

Should I just start with a Crown OPDA and see if that fixes the issue and go from there?

I don't have the Barrel of Monkies sound coming from mine. Maybe a light chirp that increases with RPM, but nothing like I've seen on YouTube.
 
None of the threads I've read are very clear on this. Maybe a cam position sensor. Maybe OPDA. Maybe something else - I don't want to spend $300 on parts if it's just one of these.

Should I just start with a Crown OPDA and see if that fixes the issue and go from there?

I don't have the Barrel of Monkies sound coming from mine. Maybe a light chirp that increases with RPM, but nothing like I've seen on YouTube.
Typically. You can pull the OPDA and see where the gear wear is at for yours. Plenty of write-ups around on how to set timing before pulling it.

Recommend the TDC method vs a the sharpie method.
 
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Ok. Bought the Crown OPDA.

Should this still be OK to drive around town until it gets here?
 
Ok. Bought the Crown OPDA.

Should this still be OK to drive around town until it gets here?

Depends on if there's damage to the cam gear already. If so, you're only making it worse. If it's bad enough, you may only be making bad into worse.

Not trying to worry you. I'm talking from experience of the dealership replacing my cam after the OPDA ate it apart (and then the dealership didn't wear in the new cam and it then ate the flat tappets necessitating a new engine - but that's another story).

The 'plastic alignment plug' that comes with the new OPDA is a great tool to remove and check the existing OPDA while keeping everything 'keyed together' (I kept mine for any time I take the OPDA out and used it several times since). You can try the screwdriver or punch method mentioned around but I always found too much slop to get the OPDA back in correctly again - new or just a pull-and-check. YMMV

If you're talking 'around town' being a few necessary miles here and there, you MAY be okay - but it's a gamble until you get eyes on both gears.

If you can avoid it, less miles the better until you can pull it and be ready with the Crown unit. Do be sure to get eyes on the cam gear. If it's worn significantly, the crown unit will only extend the inevitable.

FWIW, my original OPDA that killed my cam never made the 'angry monkey' sounds before it ate up the cam.

Not here to scare you, just sharing my shitty experience from an unnecessary change to a 'small' part - 2 years before stopping manufacturing of the engine - that became an engine killer. <rant off>
 
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Fun - after going to a Dr appointment yesterday, coming home and the CEL went off and hasn't come back on yet.

Crown OPDA arrives tomorrow. I'll still put it in.
 
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Just remember...if you have a factory camshaft position sensor in your current unitsave it and don't throw it out. Use that instead of the one that comes with the Crown unit.
Oh really, that's good to know. I was just going to use the one that came with the Crown one.

Just arrived, so now I'm looking up what tools I need to get this done.
 
You are supposed to do a re-learn with the computer when you install a new camshaft sensor. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes the old sensor on the new housing works. This doesn't mean the cam and crank are in sync, it just means they aren't out of sync so bad they throw a code. If you can find somebody that has a tool that can do the re-learn procedure specified in the FSM you are unlikely to have issues whatever sensor you run. I know it can be a pain to find a place that'll do it but it might be worth the effort, especially if you get codes.
 
You are supposed to do a re-learn with the computer when you install a new camshaft sensor. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes the old sensor on the new housing works. This doesn't mean the cam and crank are in sync, it just means they aren't out of sync so bad they throw a code. If you can find somebody that has a tool that can do the re-learn procedure specified in the FSM you are unlikely to have issues whatever sensor you run. I know it can be a pain to find a place that'll do it but it might be worth the effort, especially if you get codes.
That's annoying. I do have a Jeep dealer in town, but I'd really rather avoid it.

Besides, if I'm using the same sensor, hopefully that won't be an issue.

Like I mentioned in the other thread, the CEL went off and it hasn't thrown a code since last week. So, this new OPDA is just peace of mind at this point.
 
As long as the bearing in the OPDA drive assembly is fine the code thrown for a sync error isn't a big deal. I don't mean to suggest you need to worry about the sync code, being in sync is obviously a good thing but not an issue like a bad bearing at all.
 
I still haven't put the new OPDA in the Jeep yet. But I noticed something strange.

The CEL came back on the other day and hasn't gone off yet. The strange thing is that when I start the Jeep up with the CEL on, the Cruise Control works. But after a few minutes, it shuts it's self off and will not re-engage until I turn the Jeep off and back on again.

Is this part of limp mode?
 
Here's the pics of the old unit.

Anything you want images of that I missed?

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Am I crazy or do I see some wear on the middle interior of the gear?

Nope, you're not crazy. The gear wear and the wear on the tip where it engaged the oil pump are normal for this poor OEM design.

Would welcome some more pics of that gear cleaned more and in better lighting to give better feedback. What I can make out from those pics, it looks like early wear compared to some of the really beat units out there.
 
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Nope, you're not crazy. The gear wear and the wear on the tip where it engaged the oil pump are normal for this poor OEM design.

Would welcome some more pics of that gear cleaned more and in better lighting to give better feedback. What I can make out from those pics, it looks like early wear compared to some of the really beat units out there.
The changed OPDA has made a noticeable difference in driving too. It still shifts a bit hard occasionally but before, when slowing down, it would feel like the engine/transmission was fighting back, like I had regenerative braking or something. That's completely gone now. Cruise control works again too. :D
 
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Looks pretty good to me on the gear. Tip for oil pump doesn't overly worry me personally (if it was mine).

I would be a little concerned that the gear looks as clean, as it does with minimal damage, but you still had the CEL. Makes me wonder if your cam gear has more wear than the OPDA suffered (not usually the case but possible).

If you followed the above advice to walk away with the new OPDA 'tool' to align the gear, I personally would pull the OPDA and check the cam gear wear. It's fairly easy and that tool is SO MUCH better than the 'screwdriver' method many try to use.

If you're not mechanically inclined, any shop could do this cam gear check too. (If you called back over to the shop that new OPDA, I wouldn't trust their new memory... I'd suspect a response of 'yes, we checked it and it looked good') Picture's worth a thousand words. Would suck to pay money twice (given you didn't get pics/status of the cam gear on the OPDA replacement) would suck to buy a new engine when a new cam would do.... If they did check the cam gear and report status, good on having a quality shop that knows what they're doing and not just pushing vehicles through...
 
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