Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Does anyone know the factory Trac Lok part number?

ChrisTJ98

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Louisiana
2006 jeep LJ dana 44 rear axle trac lok 3.92 and up part number? Anyone know it? I have searched and all I keep seeing is 3.73 and down.
Thanks
Chris
 
I don’t want to spend the money and I don’t see how much better it is.
You're already buying a Tracloc right? There's not that much of a cost difference and there's nothing not better with the Truetrac. Not to mention it's gear-based not clutch-pack based like the Tracloc uses which wears out.
 
You're already buying a Tracloc right? There's not that much of a cost difference and there's nothing not better with the Truetrac. Not to mention it's gear-based not clutch-pack based like the Tracloc uses which wears out.

Everything wears out in time. Seems like I have read more bad than good about the true trac. I’ve seen trac lok for as low as 345 and true trac is around 700.
 
Everything wears out in time. Seems like I have read more bad than good about the true trac.
Anything bad about the Truetrac you have read was against LSDs in general. I've had both, would not run either again, but the F/R Trueracs I ran were definitely better at everything than my previous Tracloc was. In general I never recommend LSDs for offroading but if you really want an LSD, the Truetrac is a much better and longer lasting choice.
 
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Anything bad about the Truetrac you have read was against LSDs in general. I've had both, would not run either again, but the F/R Trueracs I ran were definitely better at everything than my previous Tracloc was. In general I never recommend LSDs for offroading but if you really want an LSD, the Truetrac is a much better and longer lasting choice.

The only difference seems to be one you rebuild and the other you don’t? This going to be mostly onroad but why not add something other than a open diff.
 
The only difference seems to be one you rebuild and the other you don’t? This going to be mostly onroad but why not add something other than a open diff.
Yes one will eventually need to be rebuilt, the other one will not since it uses gears instead of a clutch pack. The gear-based design just works better as an LSD than the clutch-based design does. If I'm paying to add something I'll pay a little more to get one that performs better. Not to mention the clutch-based design of a Tracloc can encourage skids when in icy or slick conditions due to its pre-loaded method of operation. Which probably wouldn't make much of a difference for you there in Louisiana lol.
 
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Yes one will eventually need to be rebuilt, the other one will not since it uses gears instead of a clutch pack. The gear-based design just works better as an LSD than the clutch-based design does. If I'm paying to add something I'll pay a little more to get one that performs better. Not to mention the clutch-based design of a Tracloc can encourage skids when in icy or slick conditions due to its pre-loaded method of operation. Which probably wouldn't make much of a difference for you there in Louisiana lol.

I’ll look around and see how cheap I can get it vs trac lok. South Louisiana we don’t deal with ice here so I’m not worried about that
 
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Everything wears out in time. Seems like I have read more bad than good about the true trac. I’ve seen trac lok for as low as 345 and true trac is around 700.
TrakLoK.JPG


TrueTrac.JPG


Not sure where you're looking or if you're mistakenly looking at the Detroit Locker (rather than the Detroit TrueTrac), but the cost differences aren't that high. As Jerry noted, the only bad words about them are by folks who should have bought a Detroit Locker instead and had to replace the TrueTrac.

The TrueTrac is measurably better in durability, strength, and performance (almost 2x the bias ratio). It takes standard gear oil, has no consumable parts, and is the yardstick to which all other LSDs are compared to. I've run them for a long time in street or mildly-built rigs. They hold up to use and abuse and are unnoticed on typical street driving.

FWIW, I get a lot of my axle stuff from ECGS: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-15441193-dana-44-detroit-truetrac-3-92-up-30-spline-rear.html
 
Everything wears out in time. Seems like I have read more bad than good about the true trac.

How much time? I put ~200,000 miles on a Detroit Truetrac. I wouldn't buy another for a 4x4 only because selectable lockers are better. The Detroit Truetrac is, like it's locker brother the Detroit Locker, nearly bulletproof.
 
I wasn't aware that there ever was a TJ with a trac lok Dana 44 and a ratio >3.73. Or was it used in another vehicle?
 
I wasn't aware that there ever was a TJ with a trac lok Dana 44 and a ratio >3.73. Or was it used in another vehicle?
3.73 was the only ratio that came with the optional Dana 44 on standard TJs. Traclocs were standard on all Dana 44 axles in the first several years of TJs, then they became optional.
 
View attachment 347747

View attachment 347748

Not sure where you're looking or if you're mistakenly looking at the Detroit Locker (rather than the Detroit TrueTrac), but the cost differences aren't that high. As Jerry noted, the only bad words about them are by folks who should have bought a Detroit Locker instead and had to replace the TrueTrac.

The TrueTrac is measurably better in durability, strength, and performance (almost 2x the bias ratio). It takes standard gear oil, has no consumable parts, and is the yardstick to which all other LSDs are compared to. I've run them for a long time in street or mildly-built rigs. They hold up to use and abuse and are unnoticed on typical street driving.

FWIW, I get a lot of my axle stuff from ECGS: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-15441193-dana-44-detroit-truetrac-3-92-up-30-spline-rear.html

Thanks for the website. See if I can’t get the true trac part number and try and find it cheaper because that’s the cheap a** I am haha.
 
If you’re a cheap ass, then you’re better off with the TrueTrac as it’s more expensive but a better use of your money. There is no reason to spend $350 on a trak-lok. And no, “everything wears in time” isn’t really an argument for TL vs TT. The TT has no real wear parts. The TL definitely does.
 
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If you’re a cheap ass, then you’re better off with the TrueTrac as it’s more expensive but a better use of your money. There is no reason to spend $350 on a trak-lok. And no, “everything wears in time” isn’t really an argument for TL vs TT. The TT has no real wear parts. The TL definitely does.

What kinda milage can someone get out of a trac lok that is a normal day driver? 50k more?
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator