Doing preventative maintenance on my 2005 TJ, what else should I replace?

JohnJ78

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Messages
125
Location
Australia
2005 model. I've done:

- Radiator
- Coolant flush
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Radiator hoses
- Heater hoses
- Heat core bypass
- Idler pully
- Tensioner pully
- Spark plugs
- Coil pack
- Belt

- Control arms (all)
- All wheel bearings & front hubs
- New front rotors & pads
- New rear drums, pads etc
- Brake fluid flush

- Oil & filter
- Gearbox oil change

Should I do harmonic balencer? Any other suggestions would be great. Just want this vehicle reliable as possible for upcoming trips.

Oh yeah, I have this squealing sound that sounds like a bearing or something but mechanic could not find it. It's not rubber on hardtop, I do have that also, but this is a separate sound, gets louder with speed, really gets loud at about 50km/h+.

Thanks
 
the squealing sound may be some angry sparrows. check to make sure the cv joint in the front driveshaft isn't worn out.
it's usually a rotational chirping/squealing noise that gets louder as speeds increase.
 
Plenty of threads on here about people replacing things that aren't broke and having issues they didnt before. I agree with if it ain't broke dont fix it. General maintenance on the other hand Good Idea.
 
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Depending on miles, I would have replaced the timing gear and chain when you were in there replacing the water pump, since you already had all the other stuff out of the way and it was easy to access. I did mine when I replaced all my cooling parts and it stopped the engine knocking. The chain was so loose I could almost remove it without taking off the gears.
 
OPDA, 02 sensors, fluids in all gearboxes and power steering, tie rod, drag link, look into getting actual light from headlights,

But most importantly...RUST!
All of it. Every nook and cranny. Every speck of it.
 
2005 model. I've done:

- Radiator
- Coolant flush
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Radiator hoses
- Heater hoses
- Heat core bypass
- Idler pully
- Tensioner pully
- Spark plugs
- Coil pack
- Belt

- Control arms (all)
- All wheel bearings & front hubs
- New front rotors & pads
- New rear drums, pads etc
- Brake fluid flush

- Oil & filter
- Gearbox oil change

Should I do harmonic balencer? Any other suggestions would be great. Just want this vehicle reliable as possible for upcoming trips.

Oh yeah, I have this squealing sound that sounds like a bearing or something but mechanic could not find it. It's not rubber on hardtop, I do have that also, but this is a separate sound, gets louder with speed, really gets loud at about 50km/h+.

Thanks
I recommend getting a grease gun if you don't have one and then get under there and hit every grease fitting-too easily overlooked.
 
When replacing your thermostat, make sure it has the correct 195 degree rating and that it is NOT a fail-safe type of thermostat. Fail-safe thermostats cause problems since they tend to fail in the open position. Fail-safe is designed to keep them from failing in the closed position but that just makes them fail far too easily in the open position.

A 195 degree Stant SuperStat thermostat would be a good choice.

For that squealing/chirping (aka Angry Sparrows) noise, that could possibly be the CV (constant velocity) joint on your front driveshaft. If it's the CV joint, that needs to be addressed ASAP since a seized CV joint can literally cause the transfer case to explode. Not saying that squealing is for sure from the CV but determining the source of that squeal is not something you can delay.

As a test to see if it's the front driveshaft's CV that is squealing, you can temporarily disconnect the front of the front driveshaft from the axle (you just need an 8mm wrench) and, after securing it up out of the way with zip-ties, cord, etc. drive it around and see if the squealing is gone. If the squealing goes away I'd have that driveshaft's CV joint rebuilt. Yes it's ok to drive with the front driveshaft out or disconnected. Just make sure if you just disconnect the front of it that it is well supported so it can't drop down onto the street.
 
Crown OPDA

I just got a Crown OPDA as a 'Just in case" so I have one on hand if needed and wont have to wait for it to be shipped. Also if you change your 02 sensors you are best to use NTK,s they are pretty expensive in OZ/NZ though and the US NTKs at a fraction of the cost are apparently different to the SE Asia region TJ emission specs although many have used them without any problems. I have all 4 US NTK,s sitting in a box but wont swap them out unless I get the codes again. My KM,s per Litre is comparable to most TJ,s so I am not running rich due to bad O2,s and we dont have smog testing so personally I wouldn't touch the O2,s, unless you have to given your low mileage.

After spending many hours reading up on TJ,s I believe changing out some parts that are working fine can causes problems that were not there to start with! Its an 05 so you should defiantly have a Crown OPDA available.
 
I'm working through this exact maintenance myself right now with most of it completed. One thing you may consider(or at least I'm considering) is a fuel pump. Mine is working fine, good pressure, no abnormal noise, etc. but before I head to Moab & Colorado this summer, I plan to at least have a spare fuel pump and relay with me. I'd hate to be dead in the water with a bad fuel pump 17 hours from home and with questionable parts availability. If you plan to stay close to home, I'd not consider replacing until it needs it. Do a search and you'll find recommendations for Bosch or Delphi if I recall correctly.

For rust prevention, fluid film now offers a black tinted option, looks good on the frame.

I took Mr. Bransfords advice and went with the Stant 195 SuperStat and my initial opinion is that it's definitely better than the factory thermostat. Seems to open/close faster and hold much closer to the 195 set temp. Also made in USA.
 
Also if your trips are not way too far off the beaten tracks you may want to invest in RAC,s top roadside cover, you get country Km,s towing distance and accommodation costs paid for and travel costs home if stranded plus any Vehicle you travel in even as a passenger is covered.
I upped my RAC the day I bought my jeep, you can drop it back to normal and re up it when you go away. well worth it given our vast empty WA land .

RAC Roadside Cover Selector - Roadside Assistance cover | RAC WA
 
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Also if your trips are not way too far off the beaten tracks you may want to invest in RAC,s top roadside cover, you get country Km,s towing distance and accommodation costs paid for and travel costs home if stranded plus any Vehicle you travel in even as a passenger is covered.
I upped my RAC the day I bought my jeep, you can drop it back to normal and re up it when you go away. well worth it given our vast empty WA land .

RAC Roadside Cover Selector - Roadside Assistance cover | RAC WA
Very good idea. I have a sat phone too.
 
I'm working through this exact maintenance myself right now with most of it completed. One thing you may consider(or at least I'm considering) is a fuel pump. Mine is working fine, good pressure, no abnormal noise, etc. but before I head to Moab & Colorado this summer, I plan to at least have a spare fuel pump and relay with me. I'd hate to be dead in the water with a bad fuel pump 17 hours from home and with questionable parts availability. If you plan to stay close to home, I'd not consider replacing until it needs it. Do a search and you'll find recommendations for Bosch or Delphi if I recall correctly.

For rust prevention, fluid film now offers a black tinted option, looks good on the frame.

I took Mr. Bransfords advice and went with the Stant 195 SuperStat and my initial opinion is that it's definitely better than the factory thermostat. Seems to open/close faster and hold much closer to the 195 set temp. Also made in USA.
I'll be using this vehicle as my daily driver, in a small town in Australia. Will look into the fuel pump... am I correct in thinking it's glued into the tank? or no?

My car has bascially zero rust, just surface rust on a few bolts. Looks like brand new almost underneath.

Is the Stant 195 SuperStat a high flow thermostat? I'm wondering if a high flow version would keep my engine a bit cooler. It's half way on the gauge, but damn its hot under the hood. I'm considering hood venting.
 
Don't need a high flow 'stat. Or pump, or high volume rad. Stock system is plenty good for Death Valley. Which would be similar to your back yard out there in Aus.😉
 
Crown OPDA

I just got a Crown OPDA as a 'Just in case" so I have one on hand if needed and wont have to wait for it to be shipped. Also if you change your 02 sensors you are best to use NTK,s they are pretty expensive in OZ/NZ though and the US NTKs at a fraction of the cost are apparently different to the SE Asia region TJ emission specs although many have used them without any problems. I have all 4 US NTK,s sitting in a box but wont swap them out unless I get the codes again. My KM,s per Litre is comparable to most TJ,s so I am not running rich due to bad O2,s and we dont have smog testing so personally I wouldn't touch the O2,s, unless you have to given your low mileage.

After spending many hours reading up on TJ,s I believe changing out some parts that are working fine can causes problems that were not there to start with! Its an 05 so you should defiantly have a Crown OPDA available.
I Just ordered a Crown OPDA. It's on it way!