Don't tell the wife frame-off restoration

RiderofRohan

RiderofRohan

Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
73
Location
Wesley Chapel, FL
Ok. So I suck at documenting my exploits but I figured now is better than ever.

Currently, I am mid build on a 2000 sport with 4.0 I6 manual.

I am in Florida so the cost of jeeps down here are higher due to the pristine conditions of the underbody. On top of that, the mall crawler population down here is unreal. People buy Jeeps and then put an inordinate amount of cheap upgrades (crap) on them. So you end up ripping off and fixing a ton of stuff. So, I wanted a cheaper stock TJ that I could build up the correct way.

I got a hold of one that spent 15 years in Detroit collecting rust before it ended up down here in someone’s garage. Purchased in Late October 2018. Just in time for the Black Friday sales!!!

After accumulating a small parts store in my garage, I put the Jeep on blocks in February and started the build. Note that I tried to go with all forum recommended products and American made (when possible) for this build. So if there was a question I deferred to this forum for reference. The only time I didn’t (thus far) was with the air conditioning as Mopar was cost prohibitive.

Note that I am in the e-commerce world (selling stuff online) so I have made it a game to research and acquire the most affordable cost for everything. I have become quite adept at how to get what you want for the cheapest possible. The only time I ventured off this path was when time was of the essence (i.e. "I need this bolt now!!!")

Here is the plan. (All parts are currently purchased)

Frame. DeRust with POR15 and Eastwood’ internal (done)

Lift: 3.5 Metal cloak lift with 5000 series Rancho shocks (in process)

Body Lift: Currie 1.25

Axles.
  • Super Dana 35 with 4.88 Revolution gears and shafts (30 spline)with arb lockers (done)
  • Dana 30 also 4.88 Revolution gears and axles (30 spline) with arb lockers (done)
Brakes. Black magic front and back. (Done)
Wheels. Refinished stock canyon rims with 35s I got for a steal off craigslist.(done)
Engine. Rebuilt S&J engine (7 years 100k warranty). with the following upgrades....(In process)
  • Durango Alternator
  • Mopar Radiator
  • Mopar Water Pump
  • Mopar Fan Clutch
  • Ignition rail
  • Fuel Rail with New injectors
Electrical:
  • DIY S-Pod
  • DIY upgraded Big 3 wires
Steering. Currie Currectlync with upgraded Durango steering box. (In process)

Clutch. LUK kit.

Tcase. Advance adapters SYE (done)

Driveshafts. Tom Woods front and back.

Skids:
  • UCF Ultra High Transfer Case Skid
  • UCF Engine Skid
  • Off-Brand Steering Box Skid
  • Rusty's Radiator Skid
Interior
  • Noico sound insulation
  • Iggee seats(not yet purchased)
  • Upgraded sound per forum recommendations ...Polk speakers with sound ordinance woofer and amp.
Misc
  • Wilderness Systems Adventure Rack (killer deal off of Craigslist)
  • Spare Tire Carrier (throw in from Craigslist Rack)
Hardware: I tried to use grade 8 bolts when not provided from the purchased part. When the bolt, nut, widget is not available or offered at an incorrigible price from the stealership, I clean and replate the stock part with Zinc and yellow chromate.

Items TBD.
  • Cat Back Muffler (waiting to determine if mod needed due to Lift)
  • Gas Skid (also waiting until after lift to determine fitment)
  • Fenders/flares and bumpers.
  • Winch
Learnings thus far:
  • Grade 8 bolts are EXPENSIVE.
  • When dealing with rust, phosphoric acid is your friend.
  • POR15 is awesome IF you follow the directions to the letter
  • When in doubt, Google it.
  • Everyone has an opinion and everyone is right.
  • Read the directions first (learned this one the hard way on multiple counts)
  • Harbor Freight is your friend.
  • When posting on the forum about Brakes, never speak with authority or suffer the wrath of Mr. Blaine.
  • Jerry B knows his stuff
  • Chris is the dude.
  • The youtube guy on BSK is funny.
  • I love this forum.

Before
96303



Day 1 of build
96554



Tub removal
96556


Taken last night
96558


One of my birthday gifts from my wife. (she's on to me)
96559
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01, mots, mikespine and 6 others
WOW! Tub removal and all! Looks like you're doing it right. I'm assuming you're doing this to take care of any and all rust? Has the frame rotted through in any places?

If you ever wanted to do a full paint job the right way, now is the right time to do it.

I'm impressed. This is quite an undertaking for your first TJ (it's your first, isn't it?).

Also, hardware isn't cheap, that's for sure. I've spend so much money on bolts and hardware it's not even funny!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RiderofRohan
Awesome. I love these kinds of threads. Funny that you're in Florida and went to Michigan to get a Jeep. Almost everyone I know in Michigan wants to do it the other way around! Yours looks pretty clean in the before pics though...

Looking forward to see the progress.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Chris said:
WOW! Tub removal and all! Looks like you're doing it right. I'm assuming you're doing this to take care of any and all rust? Has the frame rotted through in any places?

If you ever wanted to do a full paint job the right way, now is the right time to do it.

I'm impressed. This is quite an undertaking for your first TJ (it's your first, isn't it?).

Also, hardware isn't cheap, that's for sure. I've spend so much money on bolts and hardware it's not even funny!
Click to expand...
Mike_H said:
Awesome. I love these kinds of threads. Funny that you're in Florida and went to Michigan to get a Jeep. Almost everyone I know in Michigan wants to do it the other way around! Yours looks pretty clean in the before pics though...

Looking forward to see the progress.
Click to expand...

I should have clarified. He had it up there for 15 and down here for the last four.

The frame wasn’t in that great of shape but wasn’t sure until I removed the body. MI had an 04 Rubi frame that I could have bought from a junkyard for 800.

All in all, the frame was mainly surface rust except around the tcase skid plate. But nothing a needle scaler couldn’t handle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Brian Zemaitis said:
I should have clarified. He had it up there for 15 and down here for the last four.

The frame wasn’t in that great of shape but wasn’t sure until I removed the body. MI had an 04 Rubi frame that I could have bought from a junkyard for 800.

All in all, the frame was mainly surface rust except around the tcase skid plate. But nothing a needle scaler couldn’t handle.
Click to expand...
Where is that frame for 800? I don't need it, but I might like to have it!
 
You and I are in the same position. I got my hands on a northern Tj running perfect for less than 2k. But the frame needs some repair, I fixed one side of the t-case mount with the safety caps while the body was still on. Total pita, not doing that again. So I'm going to be removing the tub, that way I can fix the rest of the frame and rust the proper way. I will definitely be following your thread.
 
ZMTJ said:
You and I are in the same position. I got my hands on a northern Tj running perfect for less than 2k. But the frame needs some repair, I fixed one side of the t-case mount with the safety caps while the body was still on. Total pita, not doing that again. So I'm going to be removing the tub, that way I can fix the rest of the frame and rust the proper way. I will definitely be following your thread.
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. Taking the tub off was well worth it. It gave a lot of reassurance being able to assess the entire frame and know exactly what I needed to do.

Send me a DM if you have any questions. I have a lot of suggestions about the frame that can help you out in the long run. Most importantly, if you have a lot of scaling rust, get the harbor freight needle scaler ( if you have a compressor). It makes quick work of the scaling rust.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squatch, Alex01 and matkal
UPDATE: I recently started a new job that is flying me all over creation, so I haven't been able to work on my Jeep lately. When I am home, I try to tackle what I can while I am there. Currently, I am in the process of cleaning and painting everything to put back on the jeep.


Rust removal

I have developed quite the process of rust removal (which I may post in a separate how-to thread). Needless to say, I have a DIY electrolysis bath for my large parts and stubborn hardware. I use a bucket of phosphoric acid for small and lightly rusted parts and then a good ole wire wheel for anything in between (or when I am lacking the patience)

When Its all said and done, I am trying an electroplating tank to zinc coat some of my bolts (this one is going so well as it involves quite a bit of tweaking and "sciencing". But, its a fun detraction from the copious amounts of cleaning and painting that I am doing.

Getting the rust off ( electrolysis)
99121


My buddy... the ever dependable Phosphoric acid (the active ingredient in Coke... yes you put this stuff in your stomach)
99122


My zinc plating setup (needs a lot of work)

IMG-0828.JPG
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Squatch, mikespine, matkal and 2 others
Ahh yes, electrolysis. Works GREAT for rusty parts. I've done the same on old lawn and garden equipment I've restored.

I've looked into zinc plating too. Doesn't look hard, but I've always held off on it due to concerns about where to dispose of the plating solution when done. Plus, I found a local source that will do single color Zinc Chromate for about 35 bucks a batch. I had some control arm piece done. Turned out great!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squatch, mikespine, matkal and 1 other person
Mike_H said:
Ahh yes, electrolysis. Works GREAT for rusty parts. I've done the same on old lawn and garden equipment I've restored.

I've looked into zinc plating too. Doesn't look hard, but I've always held off on it due to concerns about where to dispose of the plating solution when done. Plus, I found a local source that will do single color Zinc Chromate for about 35 bucks a batch. I had some control arm piece done. Turned out great!
Click to expand...
Probably not zinc Chromate, that is super hazardous using chromium 6. Probably just zinc plating, I get parts that I make for airplanes yellow zinc'd.
 
Mike_H said:
Ahh yes, electrolysis. Works GREAT for rusty parts. I've done the same on old lawn and garden equipment I've restored.

I've looked into zinc plating too. Doesn't look hard, but I've always held off on it due to concerns about where to dispose of the plating solution when done. Plus, I found a local source that will do single color Zinc Chromate for about 35 bucks a batch. I had some control arm piece done. Turned out great!
Click to expand...

You're correct. It isn't hard initially. My main issue is balancing the correct amperage, solution, etc. They come out fairly well but it's difficult to get a very shiny part IMHO. I also am using a passivate (yellow chromate). I got it off of Caswell Plating. It is neccessary if you are going to a zinc plate, the only issue is cost and the amount you have (a 5-gallon bucket). If you aren't going zinc plate your entire jeep :):) , you will have enough for years to come.
 
Think she will find out?

So my wife was out of town last night so, being the opportunist that I am.... I decided to take advantage of her absence.

Currently, I am painting a lot of parts and some of them need to be baked (HVT). Sooooo, I baked it them in our kitchen oven. To make a long story short.... I had to air out the house, but the dogs in the master bedroom, and send the kids over to their friend's house.

Oh yeah, also decided to used the master bath shower to clean off my NV3550 tranny. I needed to paint it and the spaciousness of our shower coupled with the blazing hot water made quick work of it.
Think she will notice?

Think she will notice???



She just came back and didn't notice the smell nor the mess that was in the shower last night! SCORE!!!

Jeep Build Learning lesson #2345: Don't use the kitchen oven to bake your intake manifold.
 
  • Love
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: Tomcat, mots, matkal and 1 other person
You have more balls than I do, even I wont mess with the wife's new shower or her oven. I bought a high temp hot pressure washer, it was one of those deals, paid $150 for it and then got to pay $1500 to fix it...hahaha
 
  • Like
Reactions: RiderofRohan and Bertysjeep
High Octane said:
So what’s involved with pulling the tub? Do you need to pull the engine first!
Click to expand...
I would assume you can pull the tub without removing the engine since I plan on doing the reverse. I am doing a rolling chassis and then plan on dropping the tub in after.

I pulled the engine first since I knew I was removing it and knew the tub would be way easier after the engine was out.

As for removing the tub, you have to chase down all the electrical connections, mark them and then remove them. Then move your way around the frame ensuring you have disconnected everything (you will miss something) and then just remove the 10 body mounting bolts. From that point, I slid 2x4s between the frame and body on top of sawhorses. Then secured them with ratcheting straps and then lowered the frame. Most do it differently but I had limited space in my garage so I had to get the frame out before I tackled the tub.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MangoTango, High Octane and matkal
Inspiration for when I replace this frame. I like that you lowered the frame away from the tub. I have 10' ceilings in my barn but a center beam in the way and I was hesitant in putting a come-along on the joices to raise the tub. This seems like an easier option! Great build man, your wife is a saint!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RiderofRohan
Top Bottom
Back