Update: Been pretty busy with work and family vacations but am back at it while fighting a mean case of carpal tunnel in both wrists.

Spent most of the weekend trying to rid the jeep of the insanely and erratically applied sealer. I swear the guy that applied it up in Toledo was drinking when he put it on my jeep.

IMG_0968.jpg

I can not reiterate enough that DO NOT Remove this stuff unless you have to. Unfortunately for me, there was quite a bit of rust that I noticed after I got it back from the sandblaster.

Needless to say, I spent a lot of time experimenting the best way to remove that junk. Flame, chemicals, flap disk, wire brush etc. The verdict..... They all take time and require elbow grease.

For the record, a flame was easiest but created an indescribable mess afterward.
IMG_0967.jpg

Also, I am in the process of refurbishing my wiring harnesses. Have them stripped, inspected, re-wrapped and am in the process of waterproofing-ish them.
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Next step is to apply POR-15 to both sides of the floor. After that I will apply Durabak (bed liner) yellow to the wheel wells and engine bay.
 
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Looks like it's coming along nicely.

So once this is all said and done, at the end you'll be saying to yourself, "I'm never going to buy a project vehicle again", huh?

Haha
 
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Hmmm. I have thought about removing the tub as well. Watching very closely.

I would say the biggest reason that I removed the tub was so that I could attack and treat every spot of rust on the rig.

Know what you are getting into. It's well worth it but not for the faint of heart. Take a lot of pictures and document.
 
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Update:
Made some serious movement but forgot to take pics. :(

  • Prepped and Painted the tub and undercarriage with Por 15
floor.jpg
  • Applied Seam sealer to the tub where needed.
  • Applied Durabak bed liner (smooth) to the engine bay and wheel wells
    • I really like this stuff but had a beast of a time applying it. Due to the high humidity in Florida, I had to do it in my garage with a humidity gauge and the doors closed. Needless to say... being locked in a garage in Florida in August with long sleeves, pants and a respirator made for quite the sweat-Fest. Unfortunately, it didn’t go on as planned so I have some clean up to do. The humidity cured the Durabak too quickly so I had to apply quickly and left quite a bit of drips.
engine.jpg
  • Finished installing the Savvy Gas Tank Skid ( This thing is a work of art)
tnak.jpg
  • Installed the UCF engine skid (already have the UCF Tcase skid)
  • Reinstalled my Black Magic Big Break Calipers ( had to grind them down a bit to fit in my stock rims)
  • Started installing my IGGEE seat covers just for the fun of it and one of them ripped so now I am waiting for a replacement to come from CA.

The big accomplishment was placing the tub on the frame. I had some of my sons’ friends over. (It’s amazing what 20-year-old boys will do for free pizza).

We had about 8 of us.

Lifted that beast right up, flipped it upright and dropped it right on the body mounts. My wife and youngest son slid on the Savvy aluminum body lifts and I tightened it down.

Sat back and shed a manly tear.

It was starting to come together!

Unfortunately, my joy didn’t last long when I discovered that I didn’t put on the heat shields first….. #%@&&$

So, I loosened up the bolts on one side, removed the others, pried the body up with a 2x4 and slid the shield into place.

Next up…..
  • Noico sound deadening
  • Heat protector for the tunnel.
  • Install Master Brake Cylinder
  • Install Master/Slave for clutch
  • Finish installing Savvy Tcase Shifter
Also, much to my entire family’s chagrin…. I will probably be painting the exterior. Once I got the tub back on, I noticed the paint was pretty dinged up and faded from years in the Florida sun from the PO. I plan on keeping the same color but may add a bit of metallic flakes to the paint.


WIFE UPDATE:
She was extremely excited to see the tub back on and how high the jeep rode. (Ironically, she was the one who suggested that I lift the vehicle in the beginning). During dinner the other night, she declared to the family…..​
“With all of the time and money that you have put into this jeep… there is ABSOLUTELY
NO WAY that I, WE, and especially YOU will
EVER TAKE IT OFF ROAD!!!!!”



Should I tell her now or just let her find out later?



 
Update:

Applied Noico Sound deadening material

Since I had the tub empty, I decided to go all the way up the firewall.

This stuff was easy to apply (if you aren't nursing double carpal tunnel like I currently am).

I enlisted the help of my oldest son and made for quick work. I did order the tape with it, so I applied it in areas where the seams met and may be subject to water.

Front of tub

IMG_1004.jpg


Rear of tub

IMG_1006.jpg


Firewall
IMG_1005.jpg


Next up....

Paint the exterior
 
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Having installed two layers of the Noico sound deadening mat, all I can say was that while it is easy to apply, it's quite a large project.

Took me probably 14 hours total. I was also very anal and got absolutely every spot of bare metal I could see.
 
Having installed two layers of the Noico sound deadening mat, all I can say was that while it is easy to apply, it's quite a large project.

Took me probably 14 hours total. I was also very anal and got absolutely every spot of bare metal I could see.
@Chris what was the second layer? The green Noico?
 
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Ok a few questions to ask the Jeep ninjas on this forum.

I am finally putting everything back and I have connected everything up but I have a few questions so I can get this correct....

1. What is this connector and where does it go? ( it is on the transmission/tcase wiring harness near the vent tube)
IMG_1008.jpg




2. Does your wiring harness touch the top of the tranny as it passes over to connect to the tcase? If not, how does it route?

IMG_1009.jpg

3. I have read that most recommend routing the tcase breather tube to the passenger side firewall. Doesn't that put that tube awfully close to the muffler/CAT and be subjected to intense heat?

Thanks
 
Been out of commission due to carpal tunnel surgery. Its pretty tough to work on your jeep when your Doctor specifically states..... "You CAN NOT work on your Jeep for 6 weeks!"

BUILD update:
  • Painted exterior (same color: Solar Yellow)
Paint.jpg

  • Finalized the Big 3 upgrade.
Big3.jpg

Reassembled the engine and topped off all fluids in prep for start up.
Engine.jpg

  • Put on the remaining skid plates ( engine, steering box, radiator)
Skids.jpg

Radio.jpg



Start up Update:
Well..... Not so good.

I spent most of the day prepping and checking, rechecking, and triple-checking all connections, lines, bolts, etc.
Later into the evening hours, my son finally hopped in, turned the key on and our anticipation/excitement bubbled over.
All lights were working!!
All preliminary checks were A-OK!

I connected the battery and noticed a serious spark when I went to connect the positive cable...

Feverishly I began to ascertain the issue.... Long story short...

Reversed the terminals!!!! ( What a %#$@ noob move)

I then stopped, checked every relay and fuse in the jeep and determined no issues currently, Unfortunately, I had that sinking feeling that I just fried my Jeep
jeep fire.jpg


At any rate, I determined to give it a go.

Turned the key and the starter engaged and we waited with bated breath for the moment the engine would fire...

Well, that never came. (insert sad music)

We spent the next hour troubleshooting and unfortunately, we almost dry locked the engine. UGH.

We turned off the shop lights and sheepishly went to bed with that ominous feeling of dread and defeat.

After multiple calls to experts, (thanks @mrblaine) we determined that other issues were afoot. So I needed to remove the PCM to get it tested (all good).

Also, pulled the starter and then manually turned the engine. Upon doing so, It was obviously hung up and very difficult to turn.

So, I wanted to remove the valve cover to oil it up and the plugs to ensure that I could turn the engine without dealing with compression.

As I removed the coil pack, I discovered that someone (namely me) didn't attach the electrical connector!!!!

After much self-deprecation, I continued on...

I removed the cover, spread oil across the top and dropped a few drops in each cylinder. The engine slowly but surely began to loosen up.

So now, I am currently putting everything back on and will attempt startup #2 in the next few days.

#crossingmyfingers

Skids.jpg
 
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How do you "dry lock" an engine? Start it with no oil?

Is that why the engine isn't "loose"? I must be missing something here.
 
Ok a few questions to ask the Jeep ninjas on this forum.

I am finally putting everything back and I have connected everything up but I have a few questions so I can get this correct....

1. What is this connector and where does it go? ( it is on the transmission/tcase wiring harness near the vent tube)
View attachment 110293



2. Does your wiring harness touch the top of the tranny as it passes over to connect to the tcase? If not, how does it route?

View attachment 110294
3. I have read that most recommend routing the tcase breather tube to the passenger side firewall. Doesn't that put that tube awfully close to the muffler/CAT and be subjected to intense heat?

Thanks
#1 is the unused TCC connector for the 32RH.
#2 Yes
#3 It is far enough above it to be a non issue.
 
How do you "dry lock" an engine? Start it with no oil?

Is that why the engine isn't "loose"? I must be missing something here.

I would defer to the experts here. I don't even know if Dry lock is a term. :)

It is my understanding that I attempted to start the engine too many times without spark and since it was a new engine, I don't know if it was lubed properly or that I am just a moron.

Consequently, During the last attempt to start, the starter would engage but wouldn't turn the engine. When I manually tried to turn the engine, it was a herculean effort to move the engine even a smidge.
 
I would defer to the experts here. I don't even know if Dry lock is a term. :)

It is my understanding that I attempted to start the engine too many times without spark and since it was a new engine, I don't know if it was lubed properly or that I am just a moron.

Consequently, During the last attempt to start, the starter would engage but wouldn't turn the engine. When I manually tried to turn the engine, it was a herculean effort to move the engine even a smidge.

Oh, I totally missed the part about the new engine!

Well, I hope it starts the second time around. That's got to be nerve-racking.