DOT approved beadlocks

Traditional beadlocks don't need "constant maintenance" where did you get that idea? I check the torque on the bolts every couple months or before I go on a road trip but rarely find more than a couple bolts out of 72 that need a little tightening. Do you even own traditional bead locks?

Constant was a poor choice of a word. Should have just said maintenance. I don’t own traditional beadlocks but I do know how to properly maintain them.
 
Last edited:
What’s the reason for deflating fully when checking torque? They’re deflated when installed. The torque on the ring compresses the tire bead equally. Then they are inflated. The thickness of the tire bead doesn’t change with inflation/deflation, does it?

Taken from Blaine on this thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/page-142 post #2832

“Let the air out of the tire, remove all the bolts, check them for damage, buy new ones to replace the fucked up bits, pop the outer bead with some air, break the inner down, remove the tire, while tire is off check all the threads in the bolt holes, install new tire, bolt ring back down, air up tire to seat bead. Lest we forget, bead lock bolts are a maintenance item, the air needs to be let out of the tire and the bolt torque checked at least a couple times a year. Or if you notice any backed out, with at least that much frequency.

All the bolts need to have very similar loads on them since the force from an inflated tire trying to blow the lock ring off is very high. Compromise a few bolts next to each other and a catastrophic zipper effect of popped off bolt heads can occur.

Also why you need to check torque with the air out of the tire.”
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Taken from Blaine on this thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/page-142 post #2832

“Let the air out of the tire, remove all the bolts, check them for damage, buy new ones to replace the fucked up bits, pop the outer bead with some air, break the inner down, remove the tire, while tire is off check all the threads in the bolt holes, install new tire, bolt ring back down, air up tire to seat bead. Lest we forget, bead lock bolts are a maintenance item, the air needs to be let out of the tire and the bolt torque checked at least a couple times a year. Or if you notice any backed out, with at least that much frequency.

All the bolts need to have very similar loads on them since the force from an inflated tire trying to blow the lock ring off is very high. Compromise a few bolts next to each other and a catastrophic zipper effect of popped off bolt heads can occur.

Also why you need to check torque with the air out of the tire.”

Thank you!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 06TJ35's
This is an interesting design for sure… not in my budget though. Anyone know a budget bead lock that doesn’t weigh as much as a boulder?
 
This is an interesting design for sure… not in my budget though. Anyone know a budget bead lock that doesn’t weigh as much as a bolder?

I do, you won't like it and you won't do it but it does exist. Look up drag car bead locking screws. You drill the rim and then screw the steel tire bead inside the rubber bead to the rim. Works, works well, cheap, very lightweight, very effective, scary as fuck to do.
 
This is an interesting design for sure… not in my budget though. Anyone know a budget bead lock that doesn’t weigh as much as a bolder?

Bolder is a comparative adjective. It doesn’t weigh anything.
So, no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ
I do, you won't like it and you won't do it but it does exist. Look up drag car bead locking screws. You drill the rim and then screw the steel tire bead inside the rubber bead to the rim. Works, works well, cheap, very lightweight, very effective, scary as fuck to do.

You’re correct! I wont use that option lol. Never knew about those though. Thanks for the info
 
This is an interesting design for sure… not in my budget though. Anyone know a budget bead lock that doesn’t weigh as much as a bolder?

8 bucks a tube at home depot

1654178732296.png
 
This is an interesting design for sure… not in my budget though. Anyone know a budget bead lock that doesn’t weigh as much as a boulder?

If you are OK with steel wheels, I had come across these when I was searching for wheels in the last couple years. This company mostly serves the circle track market but they make decent steel wheels for our jeeps. I have a regular (ie non beadlock) set in 5x5.5 pattern and they have been OK for what I do. Note that two wheels came bent in shipping (which they replaced, just took forever to get them). I don't have any experience with their beadlocks and this is not an endorsement .. just sharing information.

http://www.bassettwheel.com/4x4_offroad.html

1654184544819.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: DWR
If you are OK with steel wheels, I had come across these when I was searching for wheels in the last couple years. This company mostly serves the circle track market but they make decent steel wheels for our jeeps. I have a regular (ie non beadlock) set in 5x5.5 pattern and they have been OK for what I do. Note that two wheels came bent in shipping (which they replaced, just took forever to get them). I don't have any experience with their beadlocks and this is not an endorsement .. just sharing information.

http://www.bassettwheel.com/4x4_offroad.html

View attachment 334392

Holy mess those are cheap! Any ideas on weight? Also are they dual bead lock, as in both inner and outer bead?


Edit: never mind I see it plainly listed
 
Holy mess those are cheap! Any ideas on weight? Also are they dual bead lock, as in both inner and outer bead?

Weight is listed in the screenshot I posted above :)

Description also says "Both Beadlock rings are stepped, which helps center tire during mounting" - so guessing dual rings. You can call them and check.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DWR
I do, you won't like it and you won't do it but it does exist. Look up drag car bead locking screws. You drill the rim and then screw the steel tire bead inside the rubber bead to the rim. Works, works well, cheap, very lightweight, very effective, scary as fuck to do.

Wow. Like below?

As scary as this looks, I am guessing this works because the screw is in shear, and for the tire to start spinning around the wheel the screw has to shear off?


1654185565568.png


1654185595959.png


1654185646005.png
 
Last edited:
If you are OK with steel wheels, I had come across these when I was searching for wheels in the last couple years. This company mostly serves the circle track market but they make decent steel wheels for our jeeps. I have a regular (ie non beadlock) set in 5x5.5 pattern and they have been OK for what I do. Note that two wheels came bent in shipping (which they replaced, just took forever to get them). I don't have any experience with their beadlocks and this is not an endorsement .. just sharing information.

http://www.bassettwheel.com/4x4_offroad.html

View attachment 334392

Saving this for the future, these are the cheapest beadlock wheels I've seen other than the DIY weld-on ones.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DWR

@06TJ35's - this reply is for you -

I had posted this in @starkey480's build thread a little while ago. @mrblaine @jjvw and @Mike_H had some good responses and there was a good discussion as to where these fall place in the wheel hierarchy. See from post #2,834 onwards in the below page that I have linked.

If you read the specs, the manufacturer recommends usage only down to 10psi and not any further. So the consensus was that essentially these ICON wheels are for people who don't need real beadlocks but are probably reluctant to take regular wheels below 15psi (which you can already do with a good quality alloy wheel without needing the complexity of this wheel design). The wheels look good visually though, but these are not a replacement for a beadlock in any way.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/page-142

A few months later to discuss air down with rebound pro’s
That text from ICON recommends not going under 10psi to avoid losing ground clearance and damaging the wheel, but it doesn’t say anything about losing a bead of going under 10psi.
Found this video with northridge4x4 going down to 3psi on the ICON rebound pro.

I really like the look of the rebound wheel and thinking of getting a set. Just wish they offered a 15” as I can’t seem to find anything I like in 15’s
 
  • Like
Reactions: srimes
A few months later to discuss air down with rebound pro’s
That text from ICON recommends not going under 10psi to avoid losing ground clearance and damaging the wheel, but it doesn’t say anything about losing a bead of going under 10psi.
Found this video with northridge4x4 going down to 3psi on the ICON rebound pro.

I really like the look of the rebound wheel and thinking of getting a set. Just wish they offered a 15” as I can’t seem to find anything I like in 15’s

Id wager folks want larger brakes than 15" wheels support. And well 15s are antiquated 17s seem to be the old 15.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jamesval035