DrDmoney’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport

As @Alex01 says “Brown Santa dropped a package off” just waiting for a new mount to show up.

859D83C3-DE01-44C5-BC9C-FA59E76E2AC5.jpeg


I”ll paint the steel parts in the mean time.
 
So... when I was drilling these two holes for the cable stay,

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I realized that if I cut the cover down I don’t have to cope the table to fit around it because there is enough unused space to shift the table slightly to the left and clear the latch mechanism. Seen here in @RussTJ picture.

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A replacement is in the works already. It will be TT Model 002. Damn that OCD! :LOL:
 
So... when I was drilling these two holes for the cable stay,

View attachment 94537

I realized that if I cut the cover down I don’t have to cope the table to fit around it because there is enough unused space to shift the table slightly to the left and clear the latch mechanism. Seen here in @RussTJ picture.

View attachment 94538

A replacement is in the works already. It will be TT Model 002. Damn that OCD! :LOL:
What's the plan for TT Model 001 :whistle:
 
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Ok it’s Groundhog Day, I realize now why I didn’t do this before.
I built a new tailgate table for my Jeep, I’m removing my old table (TT001) and starting a new version TT002
4796D2A6-7EE3-4BD0-A69C-984DEA26614D.jpeg


So the new model will utilize the entire panel width without notching for the latch cover, in fact I am cutting the cover back to allow for the channel and panel to clear. I still had an end piece left from the panel I cut for another member that I was going to put in my wife’s JKUHR, that ain’t happenin’ anymore. However, if I do this right I can use it on both.
First step is to cut back the vertical return leg on the left side of the latch and about 1/2” of the top, I stuffed a rag in the tailgate to catch the saw filings and had my shop-vac attached, you don’t want these rusting in the bottom of the tailgate. File down the rough edges and primer them so they won’t rust.

6434B34B-8D95-4E3E-A0D6-DAF4EE2B9DC9.jpeg


I shortened the bell crank to allow the table to shift as far to the right as it can go and drilled a new hole for the linkage rod and attached it.

97E866C0-6995-4155-85AE-E8989A3A968F.jpeg
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Now to make a new cover, I’ll start with a SS side piece that will be held in place with the hinge channel.

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Then I made a cover out of some 20 ga galvanized sheetmetal.

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P
 
Ok it’s Groundhog Day, I realize now why I didn’t do this before.
I built a new tailgate table for my Jeep, I’m removing my old table (TT001) and starting a new version TT002
View attachment 95750

So the new model will utilize the entire panel width without notching for the latch cover, in fact I am cutting the cover back to allow for the channel and panel to clear. I still had an end piece left from the panel I cut for another member that I was going to put in my wife’s JKUHR, that ain’t happenin’ anymore. However, if I do this right I can use it on both.
First step is to cut back the vertical return leg on the left side of the latch and about 1/2” of the top, I stuffed a rag in the tailgate to catch the saw filings and had my shop-vac attached, you don’t want these rusting in the bottom of the tailgate. File down the rough edges and primer them so they won’t rust.

View attachment 95754

I shortened the bell crank to allow the table to shift as far to the right as it can go and drilled a new hole for the linkage rod and attached it.

View attachment 95755View attachment 95756

Now to make a new cover, I’ll start with a SS side piece that will be held in place with the hinge channel.

View attachment 95778View attachment 95776View attachment 95775View attachment 95777

Then I made a cover out of some 20 ga galvanized sheetmetal.

View attachment 95779View attachment 95780View attachment 95781P
Wow. That turned out great.
 
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Ok it’s Groundhog Day, I realize now why I didn’t do this before.
I built a new tailgate table for my Jeep, I’m removing my old table (TT001) and starting a new version TT002
View attachment 95750

So the new model will utilize the entire panel width without notching for the latch cover, in fact I am cutting the cover back to allow for the channel and panel to clear. I still had an end piece left from the panel I cut for another member that I was going to put in my wife’s JKUHR, that ain’t happenin’ anymore. However, if I do this right I can use it on both.
First step is to cut back the vertical return leg on the left side of the latch and about 1/2” of the top, I stuffed a rag in the tailgate to catch the saw filings and had my shop-vac attached, you don’t want these rusting in the bottom of the tailgate. File down the rough edges and primer them so they won’t rust.

View attachment 95754

I shortened the bell crank to allow the table to shift as far to the right as it can go and drilled a new hole for the linkage rod and attached it.

View attachment 95755View attachment 95756

Now to make a new cover, I’ll start with a SS side piece that will be held in place with the hinge channel.

View attachment 95778View attachment 95776View attachment 95775View attachment 95777

Then I made a cover out of some 20 ga galvanized sheetmetal.

View attachment 95779View attachment 95780View attachment 95781P
You are a metal magician! How did you do the bends? Hand tools?
 
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