Drum Brake Help

XBD

XBD

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Jun 12, 2024
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Denver, CO
Hello all, long time Wranglerforum user, first time posting over here. Got the suggestion from Jerry Bransford to tag @mrblaine - the brake guru - on this post.

Jeep details: 2002 TJ Sport, 4.0L 5sp

I've had this reoccurring issue with my drum brakes for as long as I can remember. Every time I open up my drum brakes for cleaning/maintenance, it appears that my adjusting cable is not in tension and the adjusting lever is not making contact with the adjusting assembly.
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I manually adjust them whenever I notice my parking brake is not engaging as soon/tight as I'm used to, so I'm pretty confident that the self adjusting is not working. I've replace all these parts a few times, including the full service kit (plus the spring kits you can get from any auto parts stores).

I know this is difficult online, but can you spot any obvious issues with these photos:
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20240611_191511.jpg


20240611_191531.jpg


20240611_191522.jpg


20240611_191518.jpg


The photos kind of make it look like the adjusting lever is in contact with the adjusting assembly star nut thing, but it's not. It's also not tight and can wiggle it by hand. The cable tension is also not very tight and can be wiggled by hand.

Thanks for any insight,
XBD
 
I ran into the same issue too. The link below is a huge help.
One thing that stands out to me is in your 3rd picture, the spring at the end of the cable with the touch of green on it, it is connected front to back, as opposed to coming from the back. Hard to explain, but if you look at the first picture posted in the attached link, you should see what I'm talking about. I had that wrong along with my cable guide, the cable sits in the groove and then connects to the top center pin on the plate. Mine was not seated deep enough in the shoe and was a bitch to get it correct. But once it was set up exactly the way the example picture is, it worked like a charm.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/doing-rear-drum-brakes-a-must-read.1987/
 
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DaYooperTransplant said:
I ran into the same issue too. The link below is a huge help.
One thing that stands out to me is in your 3rd picture, the spring at the end of the cable with the touch of green on it, it is connected front to back, as opposed to coming from the back. Hard to explain, but if you look at the first picture posted in the attached link, you should see what I'm talking about. I had that wrong along with my cable guide, the cable sits in the groove and then connects to the top center pin on the plate. Mine was not seated deep enough in the shoe and was a bitch to get it correct. But once it was set up exactly the way the example picture is, it worked like a charm.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/doing-rear-drum-brakes-a-must-read.1987/
Click to expand...

ahhh I see what you mean. Thanks for the info and link! I'll read up on that other thread and try to swap out the orientation of that attachment next.
 
The self adjust cables are probably stretched out. You can either replace them with new or in a pinch I have twisted them to shorten the length. The arm should be slightly below the center of the adjuster as viewed from the side. Also the adjuster must be clean and not difficult to spin. If set up correctly you should be able to grab the adjuster cable and pinch it toward the shoe and it should spin the adjuster wheel and ratchet to the next tooth.
 
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XBD said:
ahhh I see what you mean. Thanks for the info and link! I'll read up on that other thread and try to swap out the orientation of that attachment next.
Click to expand...

A couple items to check. The cable guide should be seated against the brake shoe. Disconnect the cable and spring remove the guide and inspect where it seated into the hole in the shoe. The guides will get worn, if it is not seated against the shoe the cable will appear long. You could also have the wrong cable. I pretty sure Jeep had two size brakes, if you have the smaller brake and the cable for the larger brake it would be too long.
 
I also had one recently that the adjustment lever that engages the self adjust wheel was damaged. The edge where it pushes the wheel was rounded off and not sharp. It needs to be somewhat sharp to push the star wheel and not slip.
 
macleanflood said:
I also don't see antisieze or grease on the adjuster bolt. Those get rusty crusty fast and seize up.

-Mac
Click to expand...

Ooof you're gonna get some opinions there. I lubricate the ones I do, but some folks don't as it can attract dust and cause them to stick...
 
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DaYooperTransplant said:
I ran into the same issue too. The link below is a huge help.
One thing that stands out to me is in your 3rd picture, the spring at the end of the cable with the touch of green on it, it is connected front to back, as opposed to coming from the back. Hard to explain, but if you look at the first picture posted in the attached link, you should see what I'm talking about. I had that wrong along with my cable guide, the cable sits in the groove and then connects to the top center pin on the plate. Mine was not seated deep enough in the shoe and was a bitch to get it correct. But once it was set up exactly the way the example picture is, it worked like a charm.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/doing-rear-drum-brakes-a-must-read.1987/
Click to expand...

Ditto on the link. It has has helped me tremendously in past.
 
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