Dual-spring coil-over questions

sab

"Semper Discens"
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As I noted in Mr. Blaine's thread in the How To section on selecting springs when going to coilovers, I have some questions (bolded below for clarity), as I'm considering adding coilovers to my build. I hope this thread, intended to discuss the technicalities of the dual-spring coil-over shock, isn't seen as jackassery because I'm simply trying understand the dual-spring coil-over setup on a high level. Since we have some very smart engineers and non-engineers here, I'd like to embark on a path of enlightenment vis-a-vis the coil-over shock.

First Topic - Preload
Someone asked about preload, and I, too have that question. How does the tuner decide on the amount of preload? Or better yet, what factors are considered when determining preload? Blaine mentioned that his tuner suggested 1" in the front and 2" in the rear, and later said that he wasn't sure why they preferred that. On other vehicles I've been involved with (both 2 and 4 wheels and one with skis and a track), the main reasons for preload were 1) to keep the spring seated (not bouncing off the seats during dynamic loading) and 2) to finely adjust ride height.

Second Topic - Dual-springs and Cross-over
The dual-spring shock can be used to produce a progressive wheel rate. Progressive means that it takes more force to compress the first inch than to compress the last. The wheel rate is the spring rate measured at the axle because the axle is what controls the tire position. Progressive wheel rates have been around for a long time, and they are used on most vehicles with wide variations in degree. Progressive rates can be achieved in numerous ways - with a single progressive-rate spring, with dual-springs, with linkages, with jounce bumpers on the shock, or with bump stops, as on a stock TJ. Generally, the progressive rate is used to prevent a harsh bottoming of the suspension, which is hard on vehicle and driver alike.

I presume that the traditional reasons for the progressive rate apply with TJs, too. Off-road, solid axle shocks end up being comparatively long, and that seems to make dual-springs a very good way to get a progressive wheel rate. Also, solid axle suspensions have relatively small linkage effect, so the wheel rate and the spring rate are not much different. Therefore, using spring rate instead of wheel rate removes some calculations.

Using Mr. Blaine's method to determine the combined spring rate based upon corner weights and desired ride height makes good sense to me. I've been doing some analysis of the dual-spring set-up following his method, and two big questions come to mind. Knowing that the way dual-spring setups work, you have an initial combined spring rate as Mr. Blaine explained. As the shock continues to compress, at some point the rate changes because one of the springs can no longer compress further (either when it reaches solid height or when it's movement is restricted by the cross-over rings on the shock body). At this point, the spring rate becomes that of the remaining spring (the one that can still compress). The spring rate increases (usually, but i may always increase - I haven't thought about that). This gives the progressive rate. My first question is what parameters are considered in order to determine where to put this rate change in the shock's travel range? Should it occur below the desired ride height, at the desired ride height, or above the desired ride height? It can be adjusted by moving the cross-over rings on the shock body, and it seems that is an important parameter to get right.

The second question is related to the first. Mr. Blaine gave a great way to determine the combined spring rate, but what determines an ideal second spring rate (the one of the spring that's still compressing as the shock bottoms)? This is limited by keeping the differences in your spring rates no larger than 100 lb/in. Is this the primary reason for this guidance? This question came about as I started analyzing a spring setup similar to that mentioned in Mr. Blaine's How To post. The springs picked were from Eibach. Both were 2.5" I.D. springs. The top spring was Eibach number 1400.250.0150 (14" long, 150 lb/in, 4.72" solid height). The bottom spring was Eibach number 1600.250.0200 (16" long, 200 lb/in, 6.30" solid height). Using those springs, with 1" of preload, here's how the spring curve changes when you adjust the cross-over ring's position (the vertical axis is spring force in pounds and the horizontal axis is shock compression in inches):

1656258295645.png


Since articulation is an important parameter for a rock-crawling TJ, I would suspect that the right end of that curve is important. Too much spring force, and articulation is hindered because vehicle weight is not enough to compress the high-side spring, causing the body to tilt and causing a rollover. So, my thoughts are that both the transition point and the final spring force should be considered in a setup (along with that final spring rate), but having no practical experience with these vehicles, I'm still low on the learning curve. My goal is to become my own suspension tuner, rather than use someone else, as I've done that with other types of vehicles in my former career.

Has anyone got any insight on these ponderings? Is this the wrong venue for this type of discussion?
 
You are trying to force the springs to do something other than their job. Go back to my rules of thumb and apply those.
 
I know about your rule of thumb of not using springs to control ride quality, and I've read the How To. Are there more rules of thumb? Is the rule of thumb to set the crossover just above the solid height of the top spring and not tune using crossover?
 
I know about your rule of thumb of not using springs to control ride quality, and I've read the How To. Are there more rules of thumb? Is the rule of thumb to set the crossover just above the solid height of the top spring and not tune using crossover?

If the springs are no more than 100 lbs. different in rate between top and bottom, then does it really matter if you move from 80 to a 200 lb/in rate with the crossover nuts? That small additional bit of rate increase isn't going to slow down the shaft speed nearly as much as a good tune will.

Unless I misunderstood your intentions with the nice little chart which makes it seem like you are trying to control shock response with spring tuning.
 
I'm mainly trying to understand why the dual-spring setup is used. The two reasons I can think of are either to get the benefits of a progressive rate or to achieve a spring rate that might not be possible to package with a single spring (for instance, I don't see an 86 lb/in spring with 14" of compression and 2.5" ID on Eibach's site). In the example above, with the cross-over set just above the top spring's solid height, the spring rate is not progressive. Is that on purpose/desired? Or is it simply - "it is what it is because it's really not relevant."

At first, I was thinking it was for the progressive rate because that's usually very desirable in other vehicles I've worked with, so I was trying to make sense of that, but I'm now thinking that it's just to get a rate needed that's difficult to do with a single spring.
 
I'm mainly trying to understand why the dual-spring setup is used. The two reasons I can think of are either to get the benefits of a progressive rate or to achieve a spring rate that might not be possible to package with a single spring (for instance, I don't see an 86 lb/in spring with 14" of compression and 2.5" ID on Eibach's site). In the example above, with the cross-over set just above the top spring's solid height, the spring rate is not progressive. Is that on purpose/desired? Or is it simply - "it is what it is because it's really not relevant."

At first, I was thinking it was for the progressive rate because that's usually very desirable in other vehicles I've worked with, so I was trying to make sense of that, but I'm now thinking that it's just to get a rate needed that's difficult to do with a single spring.

If you look at Eibach's offerings for "upper" springs on a 14" shock, note that in the lower rates, they have a very wide range of smallish increments below the 200 lb rate. Once it reaches 200, they widen out the increment and then even further as the rate gets way up there.
1656280185303.png


The main 2 reasons to use a dual spring is to be able to get the rate you are after and equally as important is springs longer than 16" don't play well in close proximity to the body of the shock since the springs don't compress nicely and perfectly evenly due to wind up. Also why if you run thrust bearings at one of the ends of each of the springs you get a different ride height than what the calculations show you should have. As a coil spring is compressed, the two ends rotate in opposite directions. That may also explain why when you were testing rates, if the friction coefficient for each spring is not identical at each end, it will show up as a different rate.

To keep the spring off of the body and the crossover nuts, you'd have to bump the diameter out to more that would be beneficial since that would mostly negate the packaging plus we look for in a coil-over.

So, even if you could use a rate that was equivalent to 150 over 150, no one will build a spring that is a single rate 30+ inches long.
 
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Sorry I called you a jackass. I do really enjoy tech discussions and encourage them... just not in the "how to" section. Those types of threads are too valuable to muck up. My apologies.
 
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If you look at Eibach's offerings for "upper" springs on a 14" shock, note that in the lower rates, they have a very wide range of smallish increments below the 200 lb rate. Once it reaches 200, they widen out the increment and the even further as the rate gets way up there.
View attachment 339347

The main 2 reasons to use a dual spring is to be able to get the rate you are after and equally as important is springs longer than 16" don't play well in close proximity to the body of the shock since the springs don't compress nicely and perfectly evenly due to wind up. Also why if you run thrust bearings at one of the ends of each of the springs you get a different ride height than what the calculations show you should have. As a coil spring is compressed, the two ends rotate in opposite directions. That may also explain why when you were testing rates, if the friction coefficient for each spring is not identical at each end, it will show up as a different rate.

To keep the spring off of the body and the crossover nuts, you'd have to bump the diameter out to more that would be beneficial since that would mostly negate the packaging plus we look for in a coil-over.

So, even if you could use a rate that was equivalent to 150 over 150, no one will build a spring that is a single rate 30+ inches long.

Now it all makes sense to me - thanks, Mr. Blaine! The dual spring setup was confusing me, as I said. Eibach's own web site discusses the two-spring (and even three-spring) setups, but they really only speak to the advantage of providing multiple spring rates - no mention of the dual-spring setup solving the issues caused by a very slender spring. All the springs I've worked with were much shorter, but about the same diameter, and we did occasionally have issues with springs rubbing the shock body, usually when the wind angle was getting large. In fact, in one application, we had a UHMW PE bushing over the shock body to deal with that.
 
Now it all makes sense to me - thanks, Mr. Blaine! The dual spring setup was confusing me, as I said. Eibach's own web site discusses the two-spring (and even three-spring) setups, but they really only speak to the advantage of providing multiple spring rates - no mention of the dual-spring setup solving the issues caused by a very slender spring. All the springs I've worked with were much shorter, but about the same diameter, and we did occasionally have issues with springs rubbing the shock body, usually when the wind angle was getting large. In fact, in one application, we had a UHMW PE bushing over the shock body to deal with that.

We have to stay in context. They have a wide variety of stuff to work on lots of applications, we are dabbling in a very small section of that.
 
Sorry I called you a jackass. I do really enjoy tech discussions and encourage them... just not in the "how to" section. Those types of threads are too valuable to muck up. My apologies.

No worries, kmas0n. I really do try NOT to be a jackass, as it seems there's no shortage of them in the world today. This LJ is a completely new vehicle with new parameters to understand, so I'm trying to come up to speed as quickly as possible. As I said in my last post there, I didn't realize I was responding to a How To post because I was on the New Posts page and never noticed the actual forum I was in. I'll try not to make that mistake again!
 
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No worries, kmas0n. I really do try NOT to be a jackass, as it seems there's no shortage of them in the world today. This LJ is a completely new vehicle with new parameters to understand, so I'm trying to come up to speed as quickly as possible. As I said in my last post there, I didn't realize I was responding to a How To post because I was on the New Posts page and never noticed the actual forum I was in. I'll try not to make that mistake again!

To put some of that in perspective- I sent over specs to my tuner. He sent back the springs I needed. As soon as I took an upper and lower out of the box I noticed a giant error in preload. Quick chat with the tuner revealed the math had been done with 12" instead of 14". I was told to just change the spring length. I questioned that and when I was told "the length doesn't change the rate" I said I did understand that but it doesn't make any sense that you should be able to do that and get the intended result. I was told it would be fine. We installed the springs and wound up with exactly 3" more ride height per end.

That was enough. What should have been a 1 and done calculation sent us chasing our tails, chasing springs, and removing springs and installing them 5 fucking times. I was done at that point and set about gathering up the last tid bits of info I needed to figure this out for myself and stop paying others to fuck up my shit.

That is where the how-to came from, I was over it, fully and completely. No one else should have to spend 2 weeks+ and way too many spring swaps to accomplish something this basic.
 
Mr. Blaine, your story is exactly why I always dive in and try to understand all aspects of a system myself. I'm glad you shared it!
 
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I've been trying to pick shocks for my build because Poly Performance has Fox shocks for 15% off this weekend. I don't want shocks so long that I have to change front fenders or have the top mounts protrude into the engine compartment. At the rear, it seems there's more room to fit shocks, so the front seems to be the controlling factor. I think I want to go with the Fox 2.0 Factory Race Series coilovers with remote reservoirs and DSC adjusters. Looking at the extended lengths compared to travel, it looks like the 10" travel shocks, at 26.1" extended, will fit. The 12" travel shocks are 5" longer, and would definitely put the top mount at the front in the engine compartment.

Is my thinking here on track? The 10" is the right length shock for my build?
 
I've been trying to pick shocks for my build because Poly Performance has Fox shocks for 15% off this weekend. I don't want shocks so long that I have to change front fenders or have the top mounts protrude into the engine compartment. At the rear, it seems there's more room to fit shocks, so the front seems to be the controlling factor. I think I want to go with the Fox 2.0 Factory Race Series coilovers with remote reservoirs and DSC adjusters. Looking at the extended lengths compared to travel, it looks like the 10" travel shocks, at 26.1" extended, will fit. The 12" travel shocks are 5" longer, and would definitely put the top mount at the front in the engine compartment.

Is my thinking here on track? The 10" is the right length shock for my build?

I'm not sure of the rest of your build but generally I won't go to the effort and expense of coil overs for less than 35" tires and 12" of shock travel. Less than that does not fit in my sensibilities of how things work best together.
 
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I like the idea of coilovers but I agree with Blaine here. Unless you have some packaging issue that coilovers would solve I would stick with coils and shocks and put the money you save towards other improvements.
 
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I'm not sure of the rest of your build but generally I won't go to the effort and expense of coil overs for less than 35" tires and 12" of shock travel. Less than that does not fit in my sensibilities of how things work best together.

The build plan, so far, is a Savvy mid-arm suspension with a custom tummy tuck,1.25" Genright body mount lift, and 35" tires on wheels with 3.63" backspace. I was planning to raise the rear of the frame to get some more departure angle for the LJ, too. Right now, as purchased, it has a Rubicon Express 3.5" long-arm lift, and the shocks look to have about 7.5" of travel. I'm at the point where I'm looking into shocks, and I was thinking of outboarded coil-overs.

Initially, I was thinking 12" per your previous guidance, but I have too much in the engine compartment that I don't want to change (York compressor and stock airbox on the passenger side, and a secondary power distribution center on the driver side) to come up into it with shock towers. Here was my reasoning for downsizing to the 10" coil-overs (instead of keeping the stock shock locations):
  1. To get the DSC adjusters
  2. To get more travel (poor assumption maybe?)
  3. For more selection regarding spring rate
  4. For easier fine-adjustment of ride height via preload
When I wrote that, I hadn't really looked into Fox's offerings for a longer shock (for 4" lift or so) with the DSC. It seems Fox makes a 2.0 shock with remote reservoir and compression adjuster (single adjustment, though) for the stock location, and with a 4" lift, the front shocks have 10.1" of travel and the rears have 9.6" of travel. Would that shock be a better choice? The travel is similar. If that's a better choice, do I go with Currie 4" lift springs and then use spacers to adjust preload?
 
The build plan, so far, is a Savvy mid-arm suspension with a custom tummy tuck,1.25" Genright body mount lift, and 35" tires on wheels with 3.63" backspace. I was planning to raise the rear of the frame to get some more departure angle for the LJ, too. Right now, as purchased, it has a Rubicon Express 3.5" long-arm lift, and the shocks look to have about 7.5" of travel. I'm at the point where I'm looking into shocks, and I was thinking of outboarded coil-overs.

Initially, I was thinking 12" per your previous guidance, but I have too much in the engine compartment that I don't want to change (York compressor and stock airbox on the passenger side, and a secondary power distribution center on the driver side) to come up into it with shock towers. Here was my reasoning for downsizing to the 10" coil-overs (instead of keeping the stock shock locations):
  1. To get the DSC adjusters
  2. To get more travel (poor assumption maybe?)
  3. For more selection regarding spring rate
  4. For easier fine-adjustment of ride height via preload
When I wrote that, I hadn't really looked into Fox's offerings for a longer shock (for 4" lift or so) with the DSC. It seems Fox makes a 2.0 shock with remote reservoir and compression adjuster (single adjustment, though) for the stock location, and with a 4" lift, the front shocks have 10.1" of travel and the rears have 9.6" of travel. Would that shock be a better choice? The travel is similar. If that's a better choice, do I go with Currie 4" lift springs and then use spacers to adjust preload?

No one I have assisted with higher performance suspension has ever regretted trading travel for onboard air in the form of a York. They all have willingly and enthusiastically removed them to make room for hoops. The same would hold true for any power distribution on the other side. We all have our priorities, mine would never be to keep that stuff if I was insistent on the coil overs. If you aren't, just get some nice shocks, fit them up, hold the fronts to 11" of travel and the rears to 12" with some good springs.
 
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You are likely in bigger trouble trying to keep the stock fenders if you optimize 12" coil overs anyway. We typically wind up with enough uptravel that highlines are needed to keep the tires off the fenders under articulation. That's with stock width axles and roughly 4" of backspacing on 35's.
 
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No one I have assisted with higher performance suspension has ever regretted trading travel for onboard air in the form of a York. They all have willingly and enthusiastically removed them to make room for hoops. The same would hold true for any power distribution on the other side. We all have our priorities, mine would never be to keep that stuff if I was insistent on the coil overs. If you aren't, just get some nice shocks, fit them up, hold the fronts to 11" of travel and the rears to 12" with some good springs.

I'm not insistent on coil-overs, and I don't wish to trade my other choices for them. I guess I'll look at RockJock springs and better shocks in the OEM locations. I am confused by your last sentence, though. Are you saying that if I decide not to go with coilovers, I should get shocks with 11" travel up front and 12" travel in the rear? Is that much actual travel possible with shocks in the standard position? These are the shocks I found for a 4" lift:

1656966373450.png


I'm assuming these would work with RockJock 4" lift springs, but are they a good choice?

You are likely in bigger trouble trying to keep the stock fenders if you optimize 12" coil overs anyway. We typically wind up with enough uptravel that highlines are needed to keep the tires off the fenders under articulation. That's with stock width axles and roughly 4" of backspacing on 35's.

Yeah, 12" coil-overs are not in my plans after looking into it further. Between towers in the engine bay and fender/hood mods, it's not in the cards for this LJ. Thanks for your help, Mr. Blaine.
 
I'm not insistent on coil-overs, and I don't wish to trade my other choices for them. I guess I'll look at RockJock springs and better shocks in the OEM locations. I am confused by your last sentence, though. Are you saying that if I decide not to go with coilovers, I should get shocks with 11" travel up front and 12" travel in the rear? Is that much actual travel possible with shocks in the standard position? These are the shocks I found for a 4" lift:

View attachment 340805

I'm assuming these would work with RockJock 4" lift springs, but are they a good choice?



Yeah, 12" coil-overs are not in my plans after looking into it further. Between towers in the engine bay and fender/hood mods, it's not in the cards for this LJ. Thanks for your help, Mr. Blaine.

You want nothing to do with the aluminum body shocks. Steel body shocks 980-02-039 and 034 with upgraded reservoirs to however much financial pain you can stand.