That looks awesome.
Looking clean!!! Nice work
Thanks dudes. I've been watching both of your build threads. I've been getting jealous, so I got up off my ass and started gettin' busy.
That looks awesome.
Looking clean!!! Nice work
Dang...I really like that bumper. That is the one that tucks back further and installs into the sway bar bolt hole, right. Sharp. I might have to add it to the list!
Bro! Both yours and @Cross-Threaded-06TJ rigs are so nice! I need to get goin!Thanks dudes. I've been watching both of your build threads. I've been getting jealous, so I got up off my ass and started gettin' busy.
Yeah, I got a lot of attention from my neighbors when I had the Jeep in the middle of the street and winching it up the driveway. However since I fix most of their cars, lawnmowers, and sprinkler systems for a 12 pack, they cut me some slack and just smile and wave.Looks excellent. Love the spooling idea. And the graphic on the hood looks good, did not notice that til now.
Finally got the winch wired up, control pack installed, and synthetic line installed.
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I got a nice good stretch on the line by attaching to my wife's Cadillac in the garage. My driveway is about 75 feet long and at a slight incline. I put the Jeep in the street, set the e-brake a couple of clicks and pulled the Jeep up the driveway. The line spooled up nice and tight.
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Weather is supposed to be nice and in the low 80's all week. Stripped down to the bikini top and put on the tube doors. Should be a great Jeep week.
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Your bumper looks great, I've been considering getting one for myself recently. It looks like it only has two mounting holes on the top on their website, but yours seems to have a third mounting hole that you attached your hooks with as well. Did you just measure and drill that third hole yourself? And what made you decide to paint it? I've got a silver LJ as well and think I'd leave it bare, at least for now. Great looking jeep!
For reference in case others may be learning, there is no strength advantage to the Locked Brummel over a simple long bury splice. The thimble design also pretty much negates the use of a lock stitch to stop wandering fingers from tampering with and loosening the splice after it is loaded heavily. You pretty much have to dig it out with a metal fid to get a new thimble installed.I haven't had a whole lot of time lately on the LJ, to many other home projects.
However, I did have time to put a few coats of satin black on the new bumper, fairlead, and hoop.
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I was also able to splice my synthetic line onto the safety thimble using a "Locked Brummel eye splice with a deep bury". I could be wrong on the term, It's been about 20 years since I took an Army rigging class. Thank God for Google.
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Cheers to watching paint dry.
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For reference in case others may be learning, there is no strength advantage to the Locked Brummel over a simple long bury splice. The thimble design also pretty much negates the use of a lock stitch to stop wandering fingers from tampering with and loosening the splice after it is loaded heavily. You pretty much have to dig it out with a metal fid to get a new thimble installed.
I've seen quite a few tests where the Brummel did degrade overall breaking strength due to the stress risers at the loops. I've also seen tests that show 100% line strength. We don't have a line strength break to prove the line strength so that could be balanced against "rated" numbers which may not have been actual. Basically it is just an unnecessary splice method that is complicated for no benefit in this application.Thank you, I read this very thing on animatedknots.com the day after I spliced this on.
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So I get that it adds no additional strength. Does it take any strength away, or is it just not necessary?
I've seen quite a few tests where the Brummel did degrade overall breaking strength due to the stress risers at the loops. I've also seen tests that show 100% line strength. We don't have a line strength break to prove the line strength so that could be balanced against "rated" numbers which may not have been actual. Basically it is just an unnecessary splice method that is complicated for no benefit in this application.
One can also make a strong case that an incorrect taper is worse than either splice since that stresses the fibers at the end of the buried tail.
Do a buried tail of about 40 x the line diameter with a 4" long taper. Then tie off to a strong anchor point, tie off the rig to at least another vehicle and load the line heavily. That will lock the splice in so you have to pry it apart to get it out of the thimble. That gets you the tamper resistant feature of a lock stitch.Good to know, thank you for the information.
Do a buried tail of about 40 x the line diameter with a 4" long taper. Then tie off too a strong anchor point, tie off the rig to at least another vehicle and load the line heavily. That will lock the splice in so you have to pry it apart to get it out of the thimble. That gets you the tamper resistant feature of a lock stitch.
Once you cut the line to bury it, do you need any special tool to keep the open end from unraveling? Do you just push the line in to expand it like a chinese finger torture device?
Looks good, did you check to see how "tamper resistant" it gets after load it?I took @mrblaine 's advice and redid my winch thimble splice from a needlessly complicated Brummel splice to a simpler, stronger deep bury splice. If I missed any important details, please let me know.
Brummel splice sends the rope through loops made on the other side of the rope.
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Deep bury eliminates the loops and simply sends the line back through itself.
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So I started over and redid my taper, and deep buried my splice on the thimble.
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I let out the winch line and tied off the thimble to another vehicle. Then I got a good tight stretch in the line as I pulled the Jeep up the driveway to lock in the splice.
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Taper at the buried end is much smoother now too.
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Now, I just wanna go out and try to get stuck.
Yes, it is called a fid but there are many types that work as well as just taping the tail to one of the straight barrel style BIC pens. Ricky includes a plastic set with his stuff that works very well.Yes, it's called a fid. You stick the end of the tapered line into it, and it acts like a threading needle to get the line exactly where you want it. I actually learned a lot in the last week about the whole process.
I've had winches before, but never with synthetic line or a safety thimble. Kind of fun learning actually.
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Yes, it is called a fid but there are many types that work as well as just taping the tail to one of the straight barrel style BIC pens. Ricky includes a plastic set with his stuff that works very well.