Electric repair kit critique

Spend a few more bucks and get a good crimper and throw those shit connectors in the trash. Either get some of the ones posted with the heat shrink on them (provided they are adhesive lined) or go to the quality connector/terminal places online and order a selection there. This is an example of a quality terminal line. You want brazed or solid barrel with translucent insulation or no insulation and then apply adhesive lined heat shrink over that in dual wall.
The clear insulation lets you see that the insulation is butted to the barrel and that the wire isn't stripped too far.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Clear-Nylon!Insulated-Butt-Connectors/p_805411.h_805415

Get some crimpers like these. They cut wire, and do both insulated and non insulated terminals.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBDI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Thank you for the feedback, I found some connectors like @jeepins posted above on amazon that are adhesive lined. A quick scan of the site you linked looks like they only sell in pretty large quantities. I will have to double check on my desktop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXQMP66/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I ordered the crimpers you recommended. As always thanks for sharing your experience.
 
Thank you for the feedback, I found some connectors like @jeepins posted above on amazon that are adhesive lined. A quick scan of the site you linked looks like they only sell in pretty large quantities. I will have to double check on my desktop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXQMP66/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I ordered the crimpers you recommended. As always thanks for sharing your experience.

I haven't used those you linked to, but there is a big difference between cheap low quality ones and the more expensive quality crimps and heatshrink. I've tried both trying to save a buck and not buy 100 at a time. It happens to be a case of you get what you pay for. Ancor may have lower quantities available in what you're looking for.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Midnight LJR
I haven't used those you linked to, but there is a big difference between cheap low quality ones and the more expensive quality crimps and heatshrink. I've tried both trying to save a buck and not buy 100 at a time. It happens to be a case of you get what you pay for. Ancor may have lower quantities available in what you're looking for.
Ancor is distributed by West Marine. They do have smaller quantities but they are not cheap.
 
That's when I put the electric repair kit away and open the snack pack. Might as well die happy.
A buddy had a buggy YJ. When he reworked it, the main harness to the rear of the rig wound up over the front driveshaft. He hit a bomb crater on the lake bed at speed, slammed the front hard and the harness got dislodged from the tub restraints and wound up in the front driveshaft near the t-case output. It managed to wind up most of all the harness that went under the hood before it quit rolling. How many snack packs does that take?
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Ericict
How many snack packs does that take?

That really is one of life's great questions. It is extremely difficult to answer that question without knowing the ambient temperature, time of day, or body size of the buddy involved, but I'd say maybe 3-4 snack packs? First to calm down and evaluate the situation, second to enjoy while selling off the buggy (depending on the price, this may take only half a snack pack), third as comfort in the face of reality of not having a buggy. Possibly a forth while waiting on the Uber, but once he's picked up they tend to have complimentary waters and snacks.
 
I carry some heat shrink tubing, some solder, and a mini torch. I have several different sizes of shrink tubing, including some large enough to lock a splice on my winch rope If it breaks.


If you are carrying a mini torch, try one of these kits. For splicing wires on the Jeep, this is all I use.

Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals for Marine Automotive Aircraft Boat Truck Stereo Wire Joint


1574789273228.png









Can find on Amazon.
 
A buddy had a buggy YJ. When he reworked it, the main harness to the rear of the rig wound up over the front driveshaft. He hit a bomb crater on the lake bed at speed, slammed the front hard and the harness got dislodged from the tub restraints and wound up in the front driveshaft near the t-case output. It managed to wind up most of all the harness that went under the hood before it quit rolling. How many snack packs does that take?

Put it in reverse and unwind everything, then just one snack pack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ericict and toximus
If you are carrying a mini torch, try one of these kits. For splicing wires on the Jeep, this is all I use.

Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals for Marine Automotive Aircraft Boat Truck Stereo Wire Joint


View attachment 126641








Can find on Amazon.

I dislike those. A good electrical connection is made by mechanically fastening 2 conductors together so that you've effectively created a single conductor. With these, the copper strands might not even be touching each other...the only electrical connection is through the solder.

The crimp connectors with adhesive heat shrink...when used with a good crimper that actually crimps properly, will be a better connection.
 
I dislike those. A good electrical connection is made by mechanically fastening 2 conductors together so that you've effectively created a single conductor. With these, the copper strands might not even be touching each other...the only electrical connection is through the solder.

The crimp connectors with adhesive heat shrink...when used with a good crimper that actually crimps properly, will be a better connection.

Agree to disagree. Been using this type connection for years with no issues when used properly.
 
Agree to disagree. Been using this type connection for years with no issues when used properly.
You can disagree but he isn't wrong. There is no better connection than a proper crimped solid or brazed barrel terminal with adhesive lined heat shrink over it. Anything with any type of solder in it is for those who don't understand that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: matkal
You can disagree but he isn't wrong. There is no better connection than a proper crimped solid or brazed barrel terminal with adhesive lined heat shrink over it. Anything with any type of solder in it is for those who don't understand that.

Are the crimpers being used calibrated and certified? Are the strippers certified?
Been using these kind of connections for years on aircraft. Unless you are using calibrated crimpers, these connections are not the best. Are auto crimped mechanical connectors OK for cars, yes but not without additional precautions. Which this type of connection gives without a bunch of additional tools.
 
Are the crimpers being used calibrated and certified? Are the strippers certified?
Been using these kind of connections for years on aircraft. Unless you are using calibrated crimpers, these connections are not the best. Are auto crimped mechanical connectors OK for cars, yes but not without additional precautions. Which this type of connection gives without a bunch of additional tools.

Are non certified wire strippers only suitable for your solder connectors...or are they suitable for other connectors too? Is your torch certified and calibrated to provide the appropriate amount of heat, consistently?
 
Are non certified wire strippers only suitable for your solder connectors...or are they suitable for other connectors too? Is your torch certified and calibrated to provide the appropriate amount of heat, consistently?

point is unless your tools are checked you have no idea the what you have going on with crimps. You get a visual indicator with these connectors. Remember this is all about what to use in the field and I was giving an alternative, which requires less tools. Use what you want I don’t give a shit, but don’t shit on an idea because you’ve never used the product which was evident by your statement. Here’s a you tube of the product.
 
I use ordinary crimp connectors from Ace Hardware for emergency repairs and whatever I have available to make the crimp, typically a 2nd string crimper that didn't rate being in my garage tool chest. I will guarantee that there isn't a mini torch among my assortment of get-off-the-trail tools.

I must be a heathen.
 
Good topic. Since the main idea here seems to be getting home where a good repair can be made, I think I would carry a bit more wire, minimum 12 qauge. More zip ties, more electrical tape, a more complete terminal end kit like shown above, and 5 or 6" jumpers made of 12 gauge wire with male spade on each end. These can replace a bad relay to get you home, pull the relay jump the power and load. I don't go anywhere without a power probe, but that is more for diagnosis than get you home repair. Keep the volt ohm meter, it doesn't take up that much room, and it can answer a lot of questions if you know how to use it.

B
 
I carry spare fuses, a tupperware with various connections, and good quality crimpers. The one I own is made by Klien and is a ratcheting crimper.