OP
Electrical Peeps-
- Thread starter mrblaine
- Start date
OP
That's about what I had in mind but turn and go through the fascia where the second coupling is to the left of the blue post.
OP
Everything that is not a post is gray unless they are part of the fence on top of the wall for the wood storage. The posts are blue in the area where the generator sits.
And this coupling under the drain isn't a good long term design. It assumes the coupling is water tight and the pipe joints will never leak. My luck, the pipe would leak on the back side by the roof where it's harder to see, drip onto the conduit, run down that slope, pool on the coupling, work its way in, then proceed to the generator connections riding down the inside of the conduit. I'd try to avoid couplings anywhere under the drain line.
are we talkin about pulling wires back and fixing it?
or just trying to smooth out as much nasty as possible without breaking the circuit?
i found your willing to rework from the post on.
fittings are the best way, but not the cheapest.
does your local home depot rent big conduit benders?
3 pulling elbows gets you around that post. hole saw the header, into another pull 90.
move the horizontal run to the other side and straighten the kink. shorten 1 of the elbows to accommodate the distance change.
rotate that vertical elbow plumb, remove that kink and mount the bottom on a block to stand it off so it's all plumb.
https://www.grainger.com/category/e...tallic-conduit-outlet-bodies?categoryIndex=10
or just trying to smooth out as much nasty as possible without breaking the circuit?
i found your willing to rework from the post on.
fittings are the best way, but not the cheapest.
does your local home depot rent big conduit benders?
3 pulling elbows gets you around that post. hole saw the header, into another pull 90.
move the horizontal run to the other side and straighten the kink. shorten 1 of the elbows to accommodate the distance change.
rotate that vertical elbow plumb, remove that kink and mount the bottom on a block to stand it off so it's all plumb.
https://www.grainger.com/category/e...tallic-conduit-outlet-bodies?categoryIndex=10
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And how would you pull wire through the 6+ 90 degree bends you would have?
I don’t recall seeing a wire size in the op’s first post. But using Conduit bodies gets tricky as they have to be rated for fill based on the wire size. Most are not rated for the same max fill as conduit. Unless you go to a mogul conduit body, but now your adding a lot of cost
for sure those big fitting are not cheap.
we do some wreck out when we install new panels for our sys. i can see if we have some pull fittings they haven't pitched......but that can't be until Mon. and all that crap handles industrial 3 phase so it's not junk.
i'll peek around Mon for him.
what size is that conduit/pipe?
Unless you're powering a stadium, that conduit looks about 3x too big for how it's spec'd for generators around here.. Smaller will help keep the bends tighter.
OP
The generator is sitting on concrete. The only access will be from above.
OP
OP
Unless I’m not seeing something in the pictures, I would have come out of the generac box, up turned right than hugged the corner of the wall and ceiling until I was at a spot I could turn straight across the ceiling. Parallel to the drain pipe if possible, than turned down with a kicked 90 into the generator. The less bends the better. Part of being a good installer is route planning. Taking a few minutes to plan, than verify with the owner, before starting work goes along way towards a quality install.
i agree if it could have hugged the other side............i think i see a sensor or lamp of some sort, is that a walkway or door way?
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X2 this is what I would have one ad maybe relocate the drain over to make some room at the post.