This last weekend I was able to spend some time narrowing down the source of my passenger-side leak. I took off the cowl cover and sprayed around inside with a hose; I was able to replicate the leak by spraying on the outside edge of the HVAC intake cover.
Inside the Jeep I removed the kick shield in the passenger foot-well and noticed the water was dripping from the blower motor resistor; removing that revealed water pooling underneath the blower motor. My plan is to source some nice foam and make a replacement gasket for the HVAC intake cover.
I've also recently been hearing clunking noises coming from the front end of the TJ. Upon inspecting I noticed that my driver-side lower control arm bolt had worked loose; this is the advantage of painting bolts, I didn't have to put in much effort in order to find the issue.
This has been an occasional issue I've been dealing with ever since I removed my axles for my regear so I'm assuming the original nuts have lost their locking ability. I purchased some replacement nuts, swapped it out and torqued it down, and painted the bolt. So far so good, we'll see if it lasts this go around
Today I took care of two TJ projects. First, I created a new seal for my HVAC intake in hopes of fixing my leak; and then I replaced my O2 sensors because my upstream (front) sensor didn't appear to be an OEM/NTK unit, and I had no idea how old they were.
Replacing the HVAC intake seal is a pretty simple job. I've done this once before years ago after I got the TJ, the original foam gasket had crumbled to nothing and I replaced it with straight RTV; I'm hoping that using foam weatherstripping this go around will work better.
I started with removing three screws to free the cover and tried to locate where the leak was coming from; it was hard to say definitively. After I cleaned up both mating surfaces on the cover and cowl I cut strips of weatherstripping and applied them to the intake cover, using RTV between the pieces. I also applied a very generous amount of RTV onto the cowl side. I mated the cover up and screwed it down; I smeared some of the excess RTV around the outside to attempt to seal it more. It wasn't the most pretty work I've done, but it's hidden under the cowl, so oh well .
My next project was to replace my O2 sensors. My upstream O2 sensor didn't appear to be an NTK model and I wanted to correct that; I haven't been having issues with check engine lights, but my MPG seems to have been a bit worse than normal, so I figured it was worth a shot. My TJ is a federal emissions model with only two O2 sensors. Being a 2000 model year I needed NTK #23122 for the upstream sensor and #23099 for downstream sensor.
Removing the upstream sensor was very simple. It is located just before the catalytic converter on the Y pipe, on the passenger side of the transmission. I used an offset O2 sensor tool and made quick work of it.
Comparing the old sensor to the new one, they're definitely not the same, and the one I removed appears to be a Bosch-style sensor. The new NTK sensors come with anti-sieze pre-appleid to the threads. I tightened down the new sensor, plugged it in, and was done.
The downstream sensor was a bit more difficult. It is stuffed between the cat and the muffler and also obstructed by the transfer case. My offset tool almost didn't work in this location, but I was able to get by using a piece of cheater pipe that I was able to finagle out along the side of the transfer case and out the front side of the skid plate.
It appears that my old downstream sensor was an OEM NTK unit. Installation was the same as the upstream, just tightened it down, plugged it in, and was done.
Afterwards I disconnected the negative battery post to reset my ECM in hopes of getting it to relearn with these new O2 sensors. We'll see if this makes a difference at all as my TJ ran fine with the old sensors. I'm also curious if it'll change the beahvior of my shift light since I haven't reset my ECM since before I re-geared; there was a thread regarding the behavior of the shift light and this was mentioned, I'm curious to see the outcome.
Life has been pretty busy the last few months; I've been mostly preoccupied with work, hobbies, and various projects. Here is a quick summary of some of the goings on.
I've recently acquired 98 XJ Sport for a project. It needed a lot of work and a good cleaning inside and out; but now I've now got it to driveable condition at least. Currently it is a 2WD automatic but I'm planning to do a 4WD 5spd swap and do a mild overland-style build. I plan on making videos of the process and posting a build thread on that soon. For now, here's a picture just after I got it.
I've also finally compiled together a short timelapse video of one of my favorite parts from my trip to Central Oregon this summer. The road was a good fun drive with plenty of nice Oregon geology to appreciate along the way. Not much to see, but I'm planning on making more videos of upcoming trips and aventures in the future.
Regarding my passenger side leak from a few weeks back, it seems to have (so far) been successfully repaired. We've had some good rain since I've done the fix, and I've also washed the TJ once as well, and haven't had any more drips from that location. We'll see how it continues to do down the road.
Lastly, I've of course been having plenty of fun with the TJ this fall. Mainly I've been driving around to trailheads for hikes and photography, but have also had some time to have some fun on FS roads around Mt. Hood before they're closed to vehicles for the season. Some of the early fall snow we've had helpped to make the roads quite muddy!
Lately my TJ has been giving me plenty of signs that its clutch is not too happy. Occasionally on a cold start I'd have some shuddering where the clutch will grab-slip-grab-slip, etc; also occasionally during the hot months when I'm loaded down and starting on a hill it'd give a painful skreeeee sound when slipping the clutch to start. When I bought the TJ it did have quite a rear main seal leak, so I assumed some contamination on the clutch disk wasn't impossible, plus it was likely getting close to worn out anyways (could tell from the travel of the pedal), so it was time to replace it!
I also had another problem where on a cold start first thing in the morning I'd hear a clunk-clunk-clunk sound that seemed to be coming from the front left half of the Jeep. It'd only do it while moving slowly, and for the first few minutes. I assumed this could be a sign the front driveshaft u-joints are failing, and they appear to be the original anyways, so figured I'd replace those while I had everything apart too.
It ended up not being the driveshaft at all .
I started off by disconnecting the battery and then removing the shifter ball. I couldn't really find much info on how to remove the NV shifter ball without damaging it, so I pretty much had to pry out the pattern insert with a flat head, which gouged the crap out of the ball. I'm not a fan of most of the aftermarket shifter balls I've seen, but luckily the OEM parts are still available: Mopar #52104174 and #4446921; I believe Crown also makes one.
Next I removed the center console; it was only held in by 6 10mm screws but required a bit of finesse to get it out between the seats and shift-levers. Once that was out of the way I realized that my inner shifter boot was totally spanked and needed replaced as well. Now I needed to separate the shfit-lever from the transmission; it requires some M6x1.0 bolts and nuts, as well as a few washers. The idea is to thread the bolts in a ways (with the nuts on them), and then tighten the nuts while holding the bolts still. This will release tension on the bushing inside and allow the shift-lever to easily slip off.
Next I got underneath the Jeep and removed the rear driveshaft and set it to the side. Then I setup a jack stand underneath the transmission and removed the skid plate, which then gave me enough room to also comfortably remove the front driveshaft. While I was under there I began disconnecting wiring to the transmission, transfer case, and O2 sensors; I also disconnected the transfer case breather tube and linkage, removed the slave cylinder, as well as popped off wiring harness clips that were fastened to the transmission and transfer case.
I then drained the old fluid out of both the transmission and transfer case. I setup my transmission jack under the trans mount bolt holes and began removing the bellhousing bolts. First was the starter, then I took off the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the engine. The top two on in my case weren't the evil E12 bolts that are usually there, but appeared to still be an OEM bolt; not entirely sure if somebody was in there before and swapped them or if Jeep stopped using those at some point. I also unbolted the crank position sensor while I was up there and stowed it safely away up in the engine bay, still plugged into the wiring harness. There are also 5 bolts holding the dust shield to the bellhousing that need to be removed. I initially missed the two bolts at 2 and 10 o-clock and couldn't wiggle the trans out .
(Transfer case is for my XJ project, ignore that )
Next stage was to replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. I unbolted the old pressure plate from the flywheel, removing it and the clutch disc, and inspected them both. The fingers were very worn, some of them flaking off and nearly paper thin, even cracking at points; I'm guessing this was the cause of a lot of the issues I was experiencing. The clutch disc too was pretty worn out, but not quite dead. The old clutch was manufactured by Sachs and appeared like it could've been the original one.
Removing the pilot bearing was very easy since I had the proper tools ; a blind bearing puller kit makes easy work of it. Setting the tool up is easy and just requires finding the correct size arbor and then screwing the puller section onto it. The bearing came free very easily without much effort at all.
I then turned my attention to the parts in the bellhousing. It was an absolute mess inside there, a ton of oil and chunks of some sort of plastic or rubber were everywhere. I wasn't sure whether or not this was all from the engine, or whether the transmission was leaking as well. Luckily I thought ahead and purchased a new input shaft seal for the transmission, an SKF #13888.
First I cleaned up the bulk of the mess. I then removed the old throwout bearing and clutch fork and spring. I unbolted the bearing retainer plate and set to prying out the old seal; it put up quite a fight, but in the end I won. I installed the new seal, cleaned everything up on the plate and transmission, put a fresh bead of RTV on, and bolted it back together.
I also replaced the pivot ball and spring as they were not included in the kit. I used Crown #52087542 & #4338855. I put the new throwout bearing onto the fork and reassembled everything in the bellhousing. A very small amount of the included grease was put onto the sliding and pivoting surfaces of the fork and throwout bearing, as well as on the splines of the input shaft.
Last thing before reassembly was to rebuild the front driveshaft. I purchased a kit from Dennys Driveshaft that contained 3x Spicer 1310x u-joints, as well as centering yoke, dust shield, and new bolts. I removed the retaining springs from the u-joints using a pair of pliers and channel locks for the more stubborn ones. Spraying some penetrating oil into the clips helped to release them, as well as made it easier to twist the caps out later. Removing the u-joints was accomplished with a large 36mm socket as a cup on the back side, a large brass punch, and a hammer; channel locks were needed to twist out the caps in some cases. Reassembly was very similar, except I used sockets just big enough to drive the caps in.
Getting the transmission bolted back up to the engine was thankfully simple, it just slipped right into place. Shifting the transmission into gear so I could use the rear driveshaft yoke to help align the input shaft splines into the clutch disc definitely helped. Once bolted up and torqued down, I reassembled all the removed parts and wiring. I filled my transmission up with Royal Purple Synchromax and the transfer case got some basic ATF+4 I had on hand.
Back inside the TJ I drove the shift-lever back onto the stub shaft with a few taps from a dead-blow. Then I installed the new inner shift boot, an Omix-Ada 18886.95 boot, and it fit up just fine and did the job. Next the center console was reinstalled, outer shifter boot, new shifter ball, and pattern insert were installed. Everything was now finally complete and ready for a drive!
On the test drive everything was great, amazing in fact! I didn't even realize how bad the old clutch was; it had a lot stiffer of a pedal feel than the new one. With the new clutch it also feels a lot easier to downshift, particularly 3rd into 2nd. Overall very happy with the immediate results.
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Unfortunately my TJs heater core ended up biting the dust shortly after. Started getting a heavy fog inside on the windshield, and then underneath noticed coolant dripping out of the drain and on the control arm bracket below. So now we'll jump right back into another big project, hooray!
And regarding the noise I had assumed was related to my driveshaft, well, it wasn't. All the old joints were fine. While the driveshaft was out I did some investigating, and it is actually from my front driver-side brake. The pads appear able to shift somewhat, and end up sticking and slipping repeatedly. Removing the caliper gets rid of the noise altogether. A video of the noise is below. I'm not entirely sure what I need to do to fix this issue yet, but it's on the todo list as well.
Now I needed to separate the shfit-lever from the transmission; it requires some M6x1.0 bolts and nuts, as well as a few washers. The idea is to thread the bolts in a ways (with the nuts on them), and then tighten the nuts while holding the bolts still. This will release tension on the bushing inside and allow the shift-lever to easily slip off.
Also, this was especially helpful for me. I will be needing to replace my rubber boot as well as bend my shifter a bit, since it barely clears the dash in 1/3/5th gear. I had no idea I could remove the stick alone, thank you for this!
That was a very thorough write up. I'll have to bookmark this so I can refer to it if I ever do my clutch. Bravo!
Also, this was especially helpful for me. I will be needing to replace my rubber boot as well as bend my shifter a bit, since it barely clears the dash in 1/3/5th gear. I had no idea I could remove the stick alone, thank you for this!
No problem, glad you found it useful, happy to help! I forgot to take pictures during some parts, but am happy to provide any missing info if you need help.
Yes the NV shifter thankfully is quite easy to remove! I've seperated an AX15 shifter for my XJ project, and that is quite the nightmare. Now go get that boot replaced!
Heater-core Replacement, Part 1: Removal & Disassembly
As mentioned in my previous post, my TJs heater-core bit the dust. It had been warning me for the last several months with some light fogging until everything was up to temp, but last week it decided to let go bad enough to finally have to deal with it, leaving a heavy fog inside the Jeep as well as a small puddle underneath from the HVAC box drain.
For my replacement heater-core I went with a Performance Radiator 9233 core. I've had good luck with their products in the past, and they're located in Tacoma so shipping is super fast .
I followed a guide posted here on the forum by @JFjeld. My TJ doesn't have AC and is a manual transmission, so there are a few steps that I was able to omit that helped save some time.
First step was to disconnect the battery. I then began removing the screws that retain the drivers knee panel as well as the plastic surrounds on the steering column. There were a number of electrical connectors on each side of the steering column that needed to be disconnected; several are nested behind other connectors and care was required to remove them all without damaging any of the locking tabs. Next I unbolted coupler between the steering shaft and steering column, as well as removed the 4 bolts that hold the steering column to the firewall. It was pretty easy to wiggle the steering column free, however care was taken to ensure the steering wheel didn't spin and damage the clock spring.
The next steps were unplugging practically every connector that is located underneath the dash. There are several large connectors to the left of where the steering column goes, as well as several behind the glove-box. The antenna and radio connections must also be disconnected, as well as the vacuum harness. In my case I've got several aftermarket switches, as well as the dual switch panel, that required disconnecting. There are also two corrugated ducts for the upper vents that must be disconnected near the center of the dash.
Lastly there were also two bolts up behind the glove-box that hold the dash to the firewall, as well as several nuts along the top near the windshield. Once all those were removed the dash can be worked free as an assembly, ensuring there were no connectors missed in previous steps .
Next up is removing the floor duct from the HVAC box, it's held in with 2 screws at the front and 1 hidden up near the firewall, quite difficult to get to. It can then easily slide out towards the driver-side. There is one screw that retains the HVAC box on the inside that needs to be removed, located near the fuse box label. I also noticed two electrical connectors that were affixed to the HVAC box that needed to be removed.
Moving into the engine bay, I disconnected both the heater-core hoses and let everything drain as much as possible. While in the neighborhood I also disconnected the nearby vacuum line from the T-fitting.
There are 5 nuts that retain the HVAC box that must be removed. One is located behind the battery, two near the heater-core hoses, and another two near the top-rear of the valve cover and head. The one closest to the head has the cowl drain bolted on top of it and it must be removed first. That nut is also a royal pain to remove due to limited room behind the engine. In my case I didn't want to remove my dual battery system to access that nut, but luckily there was enough room to squeeze a socket in behind there and get it out .
With all those nuts removed the heater box can then be wiggled out from inside the cab. My foot was surprised by coolant pissing out from the heater-core during this step
I have to admit, it's sad to see your TJ in such a state
With the box removed I set to opening it up and removing the old heater-core. There are several bolts around the perimeter of the box, as well as two clips towards the firewall side. The gaskets for the heater-core tubes and the fan also required some "removal" in order to split the case, they were rather brittle and glued down and not too happy to move . The fan gasket I just cut at the split and intend to re-seal it with RTV, and the heater-core gasket I kinda peeled off, and then carefully slid off from the heater-core tubes without destroying too much of the brittle foam; I plan to use plenty of RTV around the new tubes. Next time I have to pull the HVAC box apart I intend to purchase some closed cell foam and create replacement gaskets.
Once the box is split open the old heater-core can be removed. It appears my old heater-core was leaking from multiple locations; no wonder it got so bad all the sudden!
I then spent quite some time cleaning out all the coolant and dirt mess inside the HVAC box before putting it back together with the new heater-core. I will document that stage of the journey in the next post.
Heater-core Replacement, Part 2: Replacement & Assembly
Picking up from last time: after the HVAC box was all cleaned out I got the new heater-core out, applied the included foam gasket material in the same fashion as it was on the old heater-core, and then nestled it into place in the HVAC box. The new core's tubes did require a very minor amount of bending to get them sitting in the same spot as the old one.
Reassembling the HVAC box was pretty easy and the only important part was to ensure the hot/cold blend door is properly seated and can move freely. Failure to do so will mean likely pulling the entire HVAC box out again
The two foam gaskets were repaired using RTV, especially around the heater-core tubes were the foam had crumbled away. I used the blue tape to prevent RTV and foam from getting into the heater-core. While the RTV was setting up I fastened down all the HVAC box screws and popped back on the two clips; the HVAC box was now ready to go back into the TJ!
Next thing I took care of before I put everything back into the Jeep was to fix some jenky wiring left from one of the previous owners; what I'm assuming is the remains from an alarm system.
I simply removed the crimped wire and cut it to a more appropriate length and then soldered it back together, using heat-shrink tube to seal the joints up. I also removed the old wire taps and used liquid electrical tape to fix the damage to the insulation. I used Tesa tape to wrap the harness back up and make it look good as new!
Putting everything back together in the Jeep was easy enough and just the reverse of taking everything out. While I had this good opportunity I changed out my heater-core hoses. I used Gates #19038 & #19039 hoses; they both worked nicely, however the upper hose might have been a bit shorter than the old hose, I had to stretch it out a bit more to get it hooked up all the way.
Once the dash was reassembled and everything under the hood was buttoned up I fired the TJ up and topped it up with coolant. After confirming everything was working properly everything was now finished.
So far I've been driving the TJ for about a week post-fix and haven't had any issues at all. Got great heat and most importantly no more fog on the windshield
Nice build! How do you like those Duratrac Wrangler tires? I'm thinking of getting those because my current tires are towards the end of their life and I need new ones before winter. I don't do any off roading (yet lol) but I live in northeastern PA and work up at a ski resort, so I do need something pretty durable for the bad weather. Thoughts? I just don't want to get tires that are made for off roading and I use them a lot on the street. Thanks
Nice build! How do you like those Duratrac Wrangler tires? I'm thinking of getting those because my current tires are towards the end of their life and I need new ones before winter. I don't do any off roading (yet lol) but I live in northeastern PA and work up at a ski resort, so I do need something pretty durable for the bad weather. Thoughts? I just don't want to get tires that are made for off roading and I use them a lot on the street. Thanks
Honestly I think the tires are great, they've worked well for everything I've needed them to! My TJ sees a lot more highway miles than off-road, but they perform great at both. They handle snow like a champ and are even surprisingly good at icy conditions. Road noise isn't bad either, definitely tolerable. I've got about 20,000 miles on mine and they're still looking great!
Honestly I think the tires are great, they've worked well for everything I've needed them to! My TJ sees a lot more highway miles than off-road, but they perform great at both. They handle snow like a champ and are even surprisingly good at icy conditions. Road noise isn't bad either, definitely tolerable. I've got about 20,000 miles on mine and they're still looking great!
Can the wrap on a wiring harness cause a leak? Well, in this case, I believe it did!
Some backstory on the issue: I've been fighting some water pooling up in my driver-side foot-well for some time now. The leak appears to coming from of the main wiring harness that comes through the firewall, dripping off of it at the lowest point right behind the OBD port. Nothing above and around the harness appeared to be wet, just the harness itself.
Old picture of the usual puddle that forms, the leak is coming from behind the OBD connector.
View underneath the dash. The water drips from where the harness breaks into the smaller pigtails.
I first posted about this issue here last October, but have been fighting it for longer. I've documented a few attempted repairs so far but have yet to completely eliminate the issue. During my heater core repair, having the entire dash taken out of the TJ gave me a good look at the areas where I've assumed the leak to be coming from, and it really seemed discouraging since there were no obvious culprits.
But lately I had a bit of a revelation. I was able to contort myself to see under the dash while it was actively dripping, and I could see it dripping from the harness, however my CB antenna cable that is routed directly above it was completely dry, as was all the other wires and connectors up above. This led me to believe the leak could be coming through the firewall following the harness itself!
This seemed like it could be possible. Because of my ARB Compressor the harness was forced to be a bit more angled upwards, which theoretically would allow water to flow in along the wires easier.
Old picture showing how the harness was angled up due to the compressor.
The wrap around that portion of harness was just a mesh sleeve with Velcro, and was taped down on both ends; it was also quite damp to the touch. I removed the decayed tape and took off the protective sleeve and beneath it was bare and unwrapped wires! Now it sure seemed likely to me that water could work its way down these wires and into the cab of my TJ.
Bare wires underneath the protective sleeve.
I gave the wires and the split-loom some cleaning and applied two full wraps of 3M Super 88 electrical tape, then followed that up with two more full wraps of Tesa harness tape, and then lastly reapplied the protective sleeve over the wrapped harness; I also added back the bit of loom to protect the harness from rubbing on my compressor. Lastly I pushed the grommet back into the firewall and zip tied everything back town.
Harness wrapped with electrical tape and harness tape.
Harness all done and restrained properly. Doesn't look much different than before .
We will see over the course of the next few rain events if this was the illusive solution to my problem, but I feel pretty hopeful that I might've finally taken care of this leak once and for all!
Can the wrap on a wiring harness cause a leak? Well, in this case, I believe it did!
Some backstory on the issue: I've been fighting some water pooling up in my driver-side foot-well for some time now. The leak appears to coming from of the main wiring harness that comes through the firewall, dripping off of it at the lowest point right behind the OBD port. Nothing above and around the harness appeared to be wet, just the harness itself.
View attachment 130752
Old picture of the usual puddle that forms, the leak is coming from behind the OBD connector.
View attachment 130753
View underneath the dash. The water drips from where the harness breaks into the smaller pigtails.
I first posted about this issue here last October, but have been fighting it for longer. I've documented a few attempted repairs so far but have yet to completely eliminate the issue. During my heater core repair, having the entire dash taken out of the TJ gave me a good look at the areas where I've assumed the leak to be coming from, and it really seemed discouraging since there were no obvious culprits.
But lately I had a bit of a revelation. I was able to contort myself to see under the dash while it was actively dripping, and I could see it dripping from the harness, however my CB antenna cable that is routed directly above it was completely dry, as was all the other wires and connectors up above. This led me to believe the leak could be coming through the firewall following the harness itself!
This seemed like it could be possible. Because of my ARB Compressor the harness was forced to be a bit more angled upwards, which theoretically would allow water to flow in along the wires easier.
View attachment 130754
Old picture showing how the harness was angled up due to the compressor.
The wrap around that portion of harness was just a mesh sleeve with Velcro, and was taped down on both ends; it was also quite damp to the touch. I removed the decayed tape and took off the protective sleeve and beneath it was bare and unwrapped wires! Now it sure seemed likely to me that water could work its way down these wires and into the cab of my TJ.
I gave the wires and the split-loom some cleaning and applied two full wraps of 3M Super 88 electrical tape, then followed that up with two more full wraps of Tesa harness tape, and then lastly reapplied the protective sleeve over the wrapped harness; I also added back the bit of loom to protect the harness from rubbing on my compressor. Lastly I pushed the grommet back into the firewall and zip tied everything back town.
View attachment 130757
Harness all done and restrained properly. Doesn't look much different than before .
We will see over the course of the next few rain events if this was the illusive solution to my problem, but I feel pretty hopeful that I might've finally taken care of this leak once and for all!
It has been a busy year so far! Not a lot of time, or need, to wrench on the TJ much. Just been out having fun as much as I can.
Regarding the fix I did to the wiring harness to fix my leak, it didn't work at first, I did need to apply some more wrap farther up the harness; however after doing that I am happy to report I haven't seen the leak return yet!
If I didn't mount the ARB compressor there I don't think I'd ever have had this problem. Hopefully this can help somebody in the future if they find themselves in a similar situation.
I'm not dead, and neither is my TJ. I've still been around lurking and reading, posting the occasional reply., but for the most part life for me has got pretty crazy since the COVID-19 pandemic took hold. My job was deemed essential and thus I was working the entire time; we also thinned down our staff majorly so I've been working overtime for nearly 4 months straight now. And due to most of my favorite public lands being closed during that time I had didn't get out and do much with the TJ. Now that things are opening back up I'm hoping to get out and go on more adventures soon!
I have spending my free time at home working on my XJ project. I've been rebuilding an AX15 trans and NP231 transfer case for it, as well as regearing and installing lockers. I've acquired parts for a lift and new tires and everything will be going together in a few months. I've recorded video the rebuilds so far and plan on editing it all and releasing it to YouTube. I'm still also planning on creating a build thread for my XJ here as it's a much more friendly and nice fourm setup than any of the XJ forums
I'm not dead, and neither is my TJ. I've still been around lurking and reading, posting the occasional reply., but for the most part life for me has got pretty crazy since the COVID-19 pandemic took hold. My job was deemed essential and thus I was working the entire time; we also thinned down our staff majorly so I've been working overtime for nearly 4 months straight now. And due to most of my favorite public lands being closed during that time I had didn't get out and do much with the TJ. Now that things are opening back up I'm hoping to get out and go on more adventures soon!
I have spending my free time at home working on my XJ project. I've been rebuilding an AX15 trans and NP231 transfer case for it, as well as regearing and installing lockers. I've acquired parts for a lift and new tires and everything will be going together in a few months. I've recorded video the rebuilds so far and plan on editing it all and releasing it to YouTube. I'm still also planning on creating a build thread for my XJ here as it's a much more friendly and nice fourm setup than any of the XJ forums
I'm going to be helping a family member move the next couple weekends, so I'll be tied up for a bit. But I'd love to go sometime, keep me in the loop for sure!
I'm going to be helping a family member move the next couple weekends, so I'll be tied up for a bit. But I'd love to go sometime, keep me in the loop for sure!
