Engine Belt Driven On-Board Air (OBA)

KingCarGuyZ

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Aight, I have confused myself so I appreciate help, I have many questions. The way I understand it there are 3 main options for OBA. Electric, Engine Driven, and C02 tank.

C02 tank:
Lets me run air tools and fills tires quickly, but requires refills every 8-10 trips at a cost of $25 a pop and its an exchange not a refill near me, so with a cost of almost $200 for the tank and then $25 to refill this outpaces the cost of a quality electric quickly.

Electric: won't let me use air tools, but will easily keep up with my 31's and the 33's that I may upgrade to in the future, currently winning with $200 Viair 400H on amazon fairly straight forward install, but IDK if I want to add just another electrical device.

Engine Driven: This is where all of my questions lie. Ao Obviously there is the Infamous YORK, and also A/C compressor conversion. This being a DD jeep and in Texas A/C is a MUST, however I like the idea of adding another compressor to the front assembly in order to provide compressed air. I have a top mounted alternator on the '01 4.0, so I'm not sure where I could add another bracket. The York kit is way rich for me, I'm hoping to fall more in the $400 range with a converted Compressor.

Since I would be adding another compressor, would it make sense to go with a stock Sanden A/C compressor off of a Jeep and convert that to OBA, or more of a York style a/c compressor like off of a Freightliner which I think is self oiling like a wet sump engine (can anyone confirm)?

If the compressors do not self oil, do I need to add some kind of up-stream oiler before the compressor to keep it from seizing? if so, do I need to add some sort of oil scavenger if I am just using it to fill tires and all of my air tools have there own oil/water separator?

Has anyone worked out an inexpensive mounting solution for dual belt driven compressors?

Is this just going to be more of a headache that its worth, should I just give up and go with the 400h (or another 1/2 decent electric compressor) for the tires and be done?
 
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The only belt driven OBA that also keeps the factory AC that I am aware of is the York using either the expensive and very nice ORO bracket or the less spendy Kilby style. There is no reason a second Sanden AC compressor couldn't be added where a York goes, but I think you are making your own bracket.
 
Aight, I have confused myself so I appreciate help, I have many questions. The way I understand it there are 3 main options for OBA. Electric, Engine Driven, and C02 tank.

C02 tank:
Lets me run air tools and fills tires quickly, but requires refills every 8-10 trips at a cost of $25 a pop and its an exchange not a refill near me, so with a cost of almost $200 for the tank and then $25 to refill this outpaces the cost of a quality electric quickly.

Electric: won't let me use air tools, but will easily keep up with my 31's and the 33's that I may upgrade to in the future, currently winning with $200 Viair 400H on amazon fairly straight forward install, but IDK if I want to add just another electrical device.

Engine Driven: This is where all of my questions lie. Ao Obviously there is the Infamous YORK, and also A/C compressor conversion. This being a DD jeep and in Texas A/C is a MUST, however I like the idea of adding another compressor to the front assembly in order to provide compressed air. I have a top mounted alternator on the '01 4.0, so I'm not sure where I could add another bracket. The York kit is way rich for me, I'm hoping to fall more in the $400 range with a converted Compressor.

Since I would be adding another compressor, would it make sense to go with a stock Sanden A/C compressor off of a Jeep and convert that to OBA, or more of a York style a/c compressor like off of a Freightliner which I think is self oiling like a wet sump engine (can anyone confirm)?

If the compressors do not self oil, do I need to add some kind of up-stream oiler before the compressor to keep it from seizing? if so, do I need to add some sort of oil scavenger if I am just using it to fill tires and all of my air tools have there own oil/water separator?

Has anyone worked out an inexpensive mounting solution for dual belt driven compressors?

Is this just going to be more of a headache that its worth, should I just give up and go with the 400h (or another 1/2 decent electric compressor) for the tires and be done?

I have the ORO york kit. Love it, and I daily drive my rig.
 
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yikes, the bracket alone is over $200..... I guess you get what you pay for. Does it wind up just shifting the alternator down? I wonder If I couldn't weld something.....
 
I think you’ll find it’s way more cost effective to just buy one of the York brackets as opposed to attempting to try fabbing one yourself. There is a fair bot of engineering involved in those brackets to make everything work properly.
To give you an idea, I made a bracket to mount a York on an LS motor which is much, much easier than the 4.0L and it took me over 18 hours and that was with a very clear picture of exactly what I needed to make.
 
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yikes, the bracket alone is over $200..... I guess you get what you pay for. Does it wind up just shifting the alternator down? I wonder If I couldn't weld something.....

Alternater is moved down about 8", the factory tensioner is relocated onto the new bracket and an additional idler pulley is added. Look in the how to section for my installation walkthrough.
 
Alternater is moved down about 8", the factory tensioner is relocated onto the new bracket and an additional idler pulley is added. Look in the how to section for my installation walkthrough.

You’ll see pics of the install in my build thread as well. Sorry I have no idea which page 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-a-c-and-durango-alternator.9691/#post-770938

Great write up! - That bracket would be a real PITA to fab, and there's not much room to change it up at all...... guess I'm either gonna go with a wacko OEM A/C one off, or probably electric. @jjvw is there anything special about that York or is it just an old A/C one? also, off topic - how does the intake wrap do for you?

You want to find a York 210 and you want to block off the oil passages between the head and crank case. There is a lot of info out there on both.

The intake wrap isn't worth the effort. Plumbing the York intake into the engine intake isn't a bad idea.
 
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OK I have some question for engine driven OBA on a TJ.
I just bought a 2005 LJ with ac. I have had a Sanden mounted on my YJ it has been great and it was easy to setup. I did the grease mod and it has lived for about 7 years. I am familiar with the ins and outs of the York and the ORO bracket (I installed one for a friend o his TJ). I like the Sanden because it is more compact and with the "grease mod" I don't have oiler issues etc. So I would like to put a Sanden on my LJ in the same location as the ORO bracket puts the york.
1. Does anyone know of a off the shelf bracket to install a Sanden instead of the York??
2. I know the early TJ's (1997 thru 2000 or 2001) had the AC on the passenger side and the alternator was located below. Since I am new to the late model TJs I don't know what is and isn't interchangeable between years. So I am asking you guys and seeking advice. I know it is probably possible to fabricate a bracket but that can be really time consuming and difficult. My Question: If I had the ac compressor and alternator brackets from the early model TJ's is it possible to use those on the later 2005? Then I could move the alternator down and mount the Sanden on top. I suspect that I might loose self tensioner but that isn't a big deal to me. This seems like a simple doable solution, but since I have not seen any posting regarding doing this and before I waste a ton of time/money trying to make this work I am coming to you guys for input. Did Chrysler change the bosses on the block?

Thank you all for any input/suggestions.