Engine replacement advise

Ok update here. Well the mechanic has it hooked up and no start. Of course everything ran into it didn’t which is what caused me getting the engine. The installer says it turns over and compression is good. He is starting to charge a diagnostic fee to find out the cause. I told him no. I’m picking it up and taking to another mechanic. He has had the jeep for almost a month already. I have new:
Spark plugs
Distributor
Engine
Exhaust manifold
Clutch
Water pump
Oil pump
Spark plug wires
This is very disappointing. I called “Titan Engine” and their response was very defensive. I was mainly just seeing if they had any advice. The mechanic thinks it’s wire or possibly ecm. Both worked just fine before the engine went out. Btw it was a piston that went out. Any suggestions? Turns but no crank. Spark good , fuel getting there, compression is good.
 
Turns out the mechanic wants to charge me hourly after an agreed amount for him to trouble shoot. I picked the jeep up and took it to a different mechanic who found out the mechanic didn’t set the timing right. Not only that but he didn’t even have all of the oil pan bolts on and when they cracked it up the pressure showed the oil leak.

The first mechanic said everything was complete other than, as he put it, “wire issue” causing no start.

Seeing that he had the timing off and somehow forgot to use all of the bolts on the oil pan, should I be concerned about the clutch he installed? Can you tell if someone installs a clutch wrong? Or would it just not drive? I’m nervous because he has so far successfully missed oil pan bolts and claimed a bad ecm and wire issue on his inability to set the correct timing.
 
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This is why I screw everything up myself instead of paying other people to screw up for me.

Pretty hard to screw up a clutch. Also pretty easy. Send it and find out... about all you can do...other than tear it all apart.

Timing issue gets a lot of folks. Some distributor gears are even installed wrong and the roll pin needs removed and the gear rotated. Whole posts on this topic.

Somewhat the problem with "new" parts these days...lot of them don't work out of the box. Lots of forum posts on what does and doesn't.

Glad it's running... drive it and enjoy your victory.

-Mac
 
ok got it picked up. I have a exhaust leak at the flange. The engine sounds good if I idle it and bring rpm up. When I drive I hear some sort of metal on metal clink. If it was the engine wouldn’t it do it not moving while bringing the rpm’s up? Could it be an exhaust tap? My question is could I eliminate the engine as a source of the noise given the fact it sounds good at idle?
 
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‘Had the windshield replaced today. The old one had 3 chips that, for some reason, couldn’t be repaired. There were also many very tiny little “micro-dings” that just made the windshield look like it was really dirty all the time.
Anyway, the new windshield is great! I’d post some pictures, but the new windshield is just pretty much invisible so it’s impossible to get a pic.
‘Had the windshield replaced today. The old one had 3 chips that, for some reason, couldn’t be repaired. There were also many very tiny little “micro-dings” that just made the windshield look like it was really dirty all the time.
Anyway, the new windshield is great! I’d post some pictures, but the new windshield is just pretty much invisible so it’s impossible to get a pic.

The question is, if an engine is making a tick or knock would it be subjective to load or would it make it under increased rpm as well. Meaning no noise under increased rpm at idle but noticing it under load. Mudflat? You got anything? I would post a video but the noise is only while under load and it’s hard to pick up and hear through a video because the flange on the exhaust.
 
Ok making a little progress. The pinging noise seems to be under load which the mechanic thinks is detonation. Spoke with mechanic and he advised to fix the huge exhaust leak first then the noise can be heard more. I guess it could be the map sensor as well. It has new spark plugs. Any suggestions would help. Thanks
 
Ok making a little progress. The pinging noise seems to be under load which the mechanic thinks is detonation. Spoke with mechanic and he advised to fix the huge exhaust leak first then the noise can be heard more. I guess it could be the map sensor as well. It has new spark plugs. Any suggestions would help. Thanks
If it's pinging I'd check the distributor timing again either before or after you fix that exhaust leak. It may be off enough that the PCM can't correct it.
 
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If it's pinging I'd check the distributor timing again either before or after you fix that exhaust leak. It may be off enough that the PCM can't correct it.

If it was off would it throw a code? I’m only getting 1 code and that’s a running lean code I think p071 code. The exhaust is coming in next week. Could the map sensor cause detonation? Or possibly the exhaust because it’s causing a ratio of fuel air to be messed up? The flange right where it bolts to the manifold has a hole so it’s right where the o2 sensor is.
 
‘Had the windshield replaced today. The old one had 3 chips that, for some reason, couldn’t be repaired. There were also many very tiny little “micro-dings” that just made the windshield look like it was really dirty all the time.


The question is, if an engine is making a tick or knock would it be subjective to load or would it make it under increased rpm as well. Meaning no noise under increased rpm at idle but noticing it under load. Mudflat? You got anything? I would post a video but the noise is only while under load and it’s hard to pick up and hear through a video because the flange on the exhaust.

I guess I posted in the wrong place. ‘Sorry.