Exhaust Coatings
- Thread starter Wildman
- Start date
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Get some cerakote air cure - c series ( some colors good up to 1800 degrees) and coat them in your garage with the 0.8 touch up gun from harbor freight.
Best thing about cerakote is its forgiving, a little goes along way, it's easy to lay down and cerakote c doesn't require an oven.
Last edited:
OP
Okay this is an older thread but since I am getting closer to getting my engine installed and will start working on the exhaust once I do I've got some questions.
I'm trying to find this information but I can't yet. But I read somewhere that you shouldn't use ceramic coated headers when first starting a rebuilt engine. Something about having to run the engine at XXX RPM's for an extended time. This could damage the ceramic coating from what I remember reading. Once I find it I'll post it.
Curious if others have read the same thing?
I'm trying to find this information but I can't yet. But I read somewhere that you shouldn't use ceramic coated headers when first starting a rebuilt engine. Something about having to run the engine at XXX RPM's for an extended time. This could damage the ceramic coating from what I remember reading. Once I find it I'll post it.
Curious if others have read the same thing?
Proper cam break in for a flat tappet cam involves holding the rpms between 2k-2.5k for and 20 min. Most people do this sitting in their garage with no air flow from driving down the road cooling things down which will cook off that coating in short order. It'll also kill a catalytic converter in short order. Ask me how I know 😏
The last time I broke a motor in I put a couple of barrel fans pointed up straight at the header and at the cat. No issues. You also don't have to break it in all at once. You could do it a few minutes at a time to add up to your 20 min break in.
The last time I broke a motor in I put a couple of barrel fans pointed up straight at the header and at the cat. No issues. You also don't have to break it in all at once. You could do it a few minutes at a time to add up to your 20 min break in.
Late to the party, but I definitely recommend ceramic coating over everything else discussed. For heat control, durability and looks, it can’t be beat. But the key is to have them coated inside and out. Find a place which can, and will, do that. Mine went on new with the engine and there was no problem introduced through the break in period. They still look as good as the day they went on - no cracks, no rust, and no fade. I’m very glad that I went this route - all for less than a couple hundred bucks, including shipping to my coating guy.
Roller cams do not require a cam break-in procedure. Most newer engines fall into this category. Simplifies the coating issues. I also like to do a few short heat Cycles on new parts.
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OP
Yes I am doing a Magnum V-8 swap on mine. And yes it's a roller cam engine and as said it doesn't need the same break in procedure as a flat tappet engine. And I knew this but had just read that about ceramic coating and it confused me.
So I can just get my Y-pipe made and then send the headers & Y-pipe out to get coated.
I used the POR15 in silver matte finish. Has worked very well on the cat, and rest of the piping. Two winters and counting. I did scuff and clean the metal for a little more bite. Two spray coats. The tail pipe looks almost new except for areas where the frame drips a little rust just every now and then. I can clean it with a rag and looks just as good. I went with silver, so that I could easily find cracks, or rust spots.
They do have the silicone spray for the wraps. Definitely use the titanium one. Heavy silicone spray coats after. Nice and tight.
I used this and titanium wrap in my old aircooled beetles, my 1.8t cars and the v6 twin turbo Audi. No issues in the NY winters.
OP
I keep getting closer to having it done. The day I turn that key and this thing cranks over I am pretty sure you'll hear me yelling and celebrating all the way in VA.
Definitely a celebratory moment to say the least!! Once all these swaps are done, maybe a Magnum TJ club can be in the works
OP
I had the Y-pipe ceramic coated and installed ceramic coated headers and so far haven't had it running long enough to be able to really tell. But with a IR thermometer I'm seeing under 200* at the header pipes. IMO that's a pretty good heat signature off the tubes.
Did you get it done locally? I’m looking at getting my CJ5 304 headers and side pipes all
Pulled, and send them to Jet Hot. I want their polished look, putting polished stainless or chrome all over her.