Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Exhaust hitting drive shaft and pre-cat adjustments

I released the homemade strap that was holding the exhaust up. The exhaust on the passanger side will move several inches up and down. The bolts to the precats are most certainly not tight. Although they a rusted and want turn either direction. I tried just moving the precats up and down, but they are firm up and down. They just pivot on the ball and socket joint with the manifold. So, I pushed the exhaust up on the passangers side as far as I could and reconnected the strap tighter. I probably raised it on the passager side 2". Fingers crossed that is enough. Still need to get the track bar back on.

This summer it is getting new precats and pipes around the oil pan. Probably not going to be me though as I don't really want to have to get those bolts out.
 
I will see if I can dig out my rachet strap tomorrow. Not sure if I have heavy duty one though.
Shouldn't take much. With the track bar disconnected, turning the steering wheel will move the body also.

Maybe where I put the tap measure on the frame isn't the same on each side or something.
Frame, body, or shock; whatever is right above the tire.
A vertical straightedge on the outside of the tire helps too.

I didn't lossen the adjusting jam-nut on the bar before disconnecting the bar. I didn't think that would help any, but I will try that next time if I every take it off again.
That was just a suggestion for making it easier to break the jam nut loose.
Doesn't help with removal.
 
It doesn't rub anymore. I made the track bar as short as it would go, which was only two more rotations for me. Wheels seem basically in the same spot, but I know it changed things as the steering wheel isn't straight any more. I loosened the two bolts on the drag link to adjust the steering, but I can't twist it to adjust it. Any tips?
 
It doesn't rub anymore. I made the track bar as short as it would go, which was only two more rotations for me. Wheels seem basically in the same spot, but I know it changed things as the steering wheel isn't straight any more. I loosened the two bolts on the drag link to adjust the steering, but I can't twist it to adjust it. Any tips?

Heat up the adjuster near the threads with Mapp gas torch then spray down the threads with some penetrating oil. Put a pipe wrench on the drag link and also on the rod end to keep both from turning. Then put a pipe wrench on the adjuster and give it a good yank to break it free.
 
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Don't have a torch. I am going to keep soaking it in PB Plaster for a few days and see if it starts to move. Is it bad to just put a wrench on the adjuster and rotate until the drag link and rod end won't move to break it free, instead of using three wrenches?
 
I suggested the three wrenches just to be safe. I wouldn't want to put any undue stress on the rest of the linkage. I ran into a similar situation years ago when I couldn't get the adjuster to move on my currectlync steering system and snapped the drag link at the passenger end. I used anti-seize on all the threads of my replacement steering linkage to prevent that in the future. Unfortunately when you buy used, you have no control over how things were installed.
 
Any hardware store will have a MAPP or even propane torch for reasonable prices.

You're really going to want heat to make this work.

Did we determine if your track bar is appropriate for your lift? If it's not centered, and out of adjustment then you probably need an aftermarket bar.

Adjusting your drag link will allow you to center your wheel.

-Mac
 
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Any hardware store will have a MAPP or even propane torch for reasonable prices.

You're really going to want heat to make this work.

Did we determine if your track bar is appropriate for your lift? If it's not centered, and out of adjustment then you probably need an aftermarket bar.

Adjusting your drag link will allow you to center your wheel.

-Mac

It is an aftermarket track bar. After some googling it looks like it has a rubicon express track bar along with their lower control arms and springs in the front.
 
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Aftermarket is good... perhaps not so much Rubicon Express but at least you might have something longer than stock.

You might want to completely disassemble the threaded pieces, clean everything up...file out dinged threads, slather with anti seize and reassemble.

-Mac
 
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If that is the stock pipe my 06 TJR is not stock, but has some cheap one that doesn't seem to fit very well.

I figure mine is origina, that picture was taken around 63,000 miles.


I probably raised it on the passager side 2". Fingers crossed that is enough.

That should do it.

I was go say something about the homemade strap mounting method. Now I'm just hoping that one will last until summer.
This summer it is getting new precats and pipes around the oil pan. Probably not going to be me though as I don't really want to have to get those bolts out.
 
I don't think you can get (real) MAPP gas anymore. 😞

Haven't really bothered looking since I got an acetylene torch many many moons ago.

And that's another option...I usually see tons of torches and bottles on FB/CL. Although everything usually has worn out tips, leaking valves...all easy enough to fix, but...

-Mac
 
If soaking it the over the next few days doesn't work I will be getting a torch to try on it. I had also read they don't sale real MAPP anymore.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts