Fender Flare Restoration

[isalinas01]

So I’m looking into restoring my sun faded fender flares, mirrors, and hard top. They all seem to be in great condition minus the fade. Any pointers on different fixes ?

Also update on the Jeep...
The old man and I took off the wheels and tires that came on the Jeep (15’s) and put some JK Sahara wheels and tires. I bought the spacers to adapt the 4.5 lug pattern to 5. I removed the front bumper side pieces and step side and added some grit tape to the bottom of the door panel. It looks grit and with all the rain we are getting, prevents slipping and hurting yourself when climbing in!

Still looking for a local Jeep group so let me know if you know one I can Join!!!

 

[Moab]

The best seems to be SEM Trim Black (this seems to be best for exterior parts) or SEM Landau Black (this color seems to be best for interior). With SEM's Plastic Adhesion Promoter on all plastic parts. Prep. Prep. Prep. Wash good with Dawn detergent. Then wipe down with something like Acetone or similar. Follow the directions on the SEM website and on the rattle can. SEM is industry standard paint. Meaning the best rattle can paint you can buy for touching things up. USed widely in the industry. It's a bit more expensive but you never hear of bad outcomes with it.

Taking the flares off is a pain. Set time aside for that. Good YT vids on the subject.

 

[isalinas01]

The best seems to be SEM Trim Black (this seems to be best for exterior parts) or SEM Landau Black (this color seems to be best for interior). With SEM's Plastic Adhesion Promoter on all plastic parts. Prep. Prep. Prep. Wash good with Dawn detergent. Then wipe down with something like Acetone or similar. Follow the directions on the SEM website and on the rattle can. SEM is industry standard paint. Meaning the best rattle can paint you can buy for touching things up. USed widely in the industry. It's a bit more expensive but you never hear of bad outcomes with it.

Taking the flares off is a pain. Set time aside for that. Good YT vids on the subject.

Thanks! I have seen people use a heat gun before, is this a bad idea? And also how long does the SEM spray paint take to dry? Thanks for the help btw!!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks! I have seen people use a heat gun before, is this a bad idea?

I certainly don't think it's a bad idea at all. I have used that method several times over the years and liked how well it works. It doesn't produce a showroom quality end result but it was definitely good enough for my needs. It produces a dramatically improved result that looks pretty darned good in my opinion. Good as paint? No, but then it's an easy process that produces results that are more than good enough for me.

 

[toximus]

@Chris had you done anything to the flares on this Jeep? They're darn near perfect if they're as old as the Jeep.

 

[Chris]

@Chris had you done anything to the flares on this Jeep? They're darn near perfect if they're as old as the Jeep.

Yes, they are brand new (new old stock) I got from the dealer online. The stock ones were faded and I was simply too lazy to paint them, so I just ordered brand new ones instead

 

[toximus]

Yes, they are brand new (new old stock) I got from the dealer online. The stock ones were faded and I was simply too lazy to paint them, so I just ordered brand new ones instead

That makes so much more sense! I'm with you there man. Ordering new sometimes is way easier.

Speaking of which, I'd been meaning to ask, how did you get the VIN sticker for the hood? Was that taken off the original? I've never seen those on replacement parts before.

 

[Moab]

Thanks! I have seen people use a heat gun before, is this a bad idea? And also how long does the SEM spray paint take to dry? Thanks for the help btw!!

Like I said read the SEM website and the can. You'd be surprised what you can learn just from reading the directions on the can. Jerry stated this in the last month. And it opened my eyes to drying times that I had not known existed. Like waiting 24 hours for a second coat is not always the best way. Read the can. Some times the recommended times between coats is surprising. But it will greatly affect the way your end result turns out. And many paints have different directions.

Biggest thing is good materials (paint) and just as important prep. Starting with a good clean smooth surface is paramount. You can't have any waxes, oil or dirt before you paint. Or it will just degrade over time quickly.

As for the heat gun thing. I think your Jeep is nice enough that you want to go paint. HEat gun works for a trail rig. As it improves it greatly. But still leaves blotches and doesn't turn out like stock. If you've got a trail only rig then ya. The heat gun is alot easier than removing the flares and painting them. But again, with a rig as nice as yours your gonna wanna do paint.

Visit the SEM website. And read their painting how tos. They are worth the time. And easy to read. Short. You don't have to use all their suggested products. Just paint and adhesion promoter on plastic is most likely enough. But they do sell cleaners and the like if you want to get really technical with it.

 

[Moab]

That makes so much more sense! I'm with you there man. Ordering new sometimes is way easier.

Speaking of which, I'd been meaning to ask, how did you get the VIN sticker for the hood? Was that taken off the original? I've never seen those on replacement parts before.

One thing to keep in mind though is that stock flares will fade faster than painted flares. So you may want to paint those new flares before putting them on. It's alot of work to remove and replace the flares. Best to get some paint on them to extend the life.

 

[Airjunky]

Wipe New.
I've used it on a Chevy Avalanche and seen it last for a year or so. Applied it to the Jeep rear flares a couple months ago and still look great.

 

[Chris]

That makes so much more sense! I'm with you there man. Ordering new sometimes is way easier.

Speaking of which, I'd been meaning to ask, how did you get the VIN sticker for the hood? Was that taken off the original? I've never seen those on replacement parts before.

Yep, I figured with $350 for a set of brand new flares that was just easier than me spending the time and money to repaint the stock ones.

That’s the factory hood actually. When I bought it it had some paint (along with the cowl panel) that was chipping off. My neighbor is a body shop guy and he told me that oddly the hood had never been repainted, so the paint wasn’t coming off due to a bad aftermarket paint job on it.

Anyways, he ended up repainting the hood and cowl panel for me (as well as the window hinges).

 

[TJDaveX]

I made the mistake of installing Bushcracker pocket flares when I first bought my TJ. They didn't last very long.
The good news was that my stock faded flares were off the Jeep, making painting them very easy. I used Krylon Fusion Plastic paint in a satin black finish. They turned out great.
I ran those stockers for a couple more years.
But, since I can't seem to leave crap alone, the stock flares have been gone again for awhile now!

 

[JayTJ]

I’m in the process of painting my factory ones now using krylon fusion satin black as well. PREP PREP PREP or deal with fish eyes, etc.

 

[jeepndogs]

If you are going to paint them SEM is probably your best choice. This sounds crazy but trust me it works. The flares are raw plastic, the best way to prep them is to take them off the Jeep. Get some Grey scuff pads and use water and some kitchen cleanser to clean them. You are cleaning them and scuffing them for paint. Do this until water no longer beads up on the flare. This will make sure all the oils and mold release agents are gone as well as any crap they have been coated with ver the years such as wax and silicone type products. Follow up with the SEM plastic cleaner/prep and then the SEM paint. Some people have had issues with them drying and being too shiny, that usually caused by one of two things. You need to shake the can upside down for at least two minutes. The flattening agents in the paint settle and turn to a gel on the bottom of the can. You need to get it mixed back into suspension. The second cause is don’t let them dry in the sun or high heat. The top coat will flash off and not allow the solvent to evaporate, the key to them drying without being shiny is they need to dry somewhat slowly.

 

[isalinas01]

Like I said read the SEM website and the can. You'd be surprised what you can learn just from reading the directions on the can. Jerry stated this in the last month. And it opened my eyes to drying times that I had not known existed. Like waiting 24 hours for a second coat is not always the best way. Read the can. Some times the recommended times between coats is surprising. But it will greatly affect the way your end result turns out. And many paints have different directions.

Biggest thing is good materials (paint) and just as important prep. Starting with a good clean smooth surface is paramount. You can't have any waxes, oil or dirt before you paint. Or it will just degrade over time quickly.

As for the heat gun thing. I think your Jeep is nice enough that you want to go paint. HEat gun works for a trail rig. As it improves it greatly. But still leaves blotches and doesn't turn out like stock. If you've got a trail only rig then ya. The heat gun is alot easier than removing the flares and painting them. But again, with a rig as nice as yours your gonna wanna do paint.

Visit the SEM website. And read their painting how tos. They are worth the time. And easy to read. Short. You don't have to use all their suggested products. Just paint and adhesion promoter on plastic is most likely enough. But they do sell cleaners and the like if you want to get really technical with it.

Sounds great man thanks for your help and pointers!!

 

[isalinas01]

I’ll try to post some pics in the morning of the fenders and see what would work best

 

[glwood]

If you are going to paint them SEM is probably your best choice. This sounds crazy but trust me it works. The flares are raw plastic, the best way to prep them is to take them off the Jeep. Get some Grey scuff pads and use water and some kitchen cleanser to clean them. You are cleaning them and scuffing them for paint. Do this until water no longer beads up on the flare. This will make sure all the oils and mold release agents are gone as well as any crap they have been coated with ver the years such as wax and silicone type products. Follow up with the SEM plastic cleaner/prep and then the SEM paint. Some people have had issues with them drying and being too shiny, that usually caused by one of two things. You need to shake the can upside down for at least two minutes. The flattening agents in the paint settle and turn to a gel on the bottom of the can. You need to get it mixed back into suspension. The second cause is don’t let them dry in the sun or high heat. The top coat will flash off and not allow the solvent to evaporate, the key to them drying without being shiny is they need to dry somewhat slowly.

The one thing the guy at the paint store where I bought the SEM from said was to use adhesion promoter. I had a can, so I put a couple of coats on prior to the SEM Trim black. It turned out great. I only did one flare, and it looks just like the other three.

Mine dried a satin finish.

 

[jeepndogs]

The one thing the guy at the paint store where I bought the SEM from said was to use adhesion promoter. I had a can, so I put a couple of coats on prior to the SEM Trim black. It turned out great. I only did one flare, and it looks just like the other three.

Mine dried a satin finish.

If you use the actual SEM plastic prep/cleaner it does the same thing as an adhesion promoter.

 

[glwood]

If you use the actual SEM plastic prep/cleaner it does the same thing as an adhesion promoter.

 

[mrblaine]

The best seems to be SEM Trim Black (this seems to be best for exterior parts) or SEM Landau Black (this color seems to be best for interior).

I'm not sure where the confusion is coming from since I've posted that Landau Black is a perfect match to the OEM flare and black trim color including the license plate mount, gas filler bezel, sway bar cover, etc.

With SEM's Plastic Adhesion Promoter on all plastic parts. Prep. Prep. Prep. Wash good with Dawn detergent. Then wipe down with something like Acetone or similar. Follow the directions on the SEM website and on the rattle can. SEM is industry standard paint. Meaning the best rattle can paint you can buy for touching things up. USed widely in the industry. It's a bit more expensive but you never hear of bad outcomes with it.

Top coat the Landau Black with the low luster clear and not only is the color correct, the sheen is as well.

Taking the flares off is a pain. Set time aside for that. Good YT vids on the subject.

Taking off the flares is only slightly difficult the first time. Once you figure out to pull the rear liners, the only thing that can be a pain are the ones in the nutserts.