Fixing minor cracks in door panels?

Moab

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I have a very thin 2 inch crack in my door panel at the top. And am wondering what to do to fix it. I think those are vinyl right? Or are they some type of plastic? Wondering what the correct glue or epoxy would be to fix it. It's not big. And it holds tight when the door is mounted and in its normal position. I hate to drill a hole at the end of it. That would look like shit. On these otherwise perfect door panels.

These are full doors. In the dark slate color.

Any advice? I'll take some pics if need be. Not much to see. Just a slim crack around 2 inches long going from the top towards the bottom. Straight line.
 
I have a very thin 2 inch crack in my door panel at the top. And am wondering what to do to fix it. I think those are vinyl right? Or are they some type of plastic? Wondering what the correct glue or epoxy would be to fix it. It's not big. And it holds tight when the door is mounted and in its normal position. I hate to drill a hole at the end of it. That would look like shit. On these otherwise perfect door panels.

These are full doors. In the dark slate color.

Any advice? I'll take some pics if need be. Not much to see. Just a slim crack around 2 inches long going from the top towards the bottom. Straight line.
I have the same door panels, and first the driver side developed that crack, then the passenger side later. I took the panel off, mixed up some 2-part epoxy, and applied that with some fiberglass mesh to the back side of the door panel. Once that dried, that crack was never going to keep going. Some have posted on here about filling the crack on the outside of the panel with some sort of colored silicone sealer, and were able to sort of match the texture; I just used a black sharpie to cover the white that showed on mine. I can post a photo later if you want.
 
I have the same crack, about 2" long starting at the top of the driver's door panel just above the inside door latch. I haven't done it yet, but my plan is JB Weld Plastic Bonder. It's a 2-part epoxy-like adhesive, will bond damn near any plastic (even HDPE), will fill gaps to about 1/8",and comes in black or tan. It can also be painted/colored.... I have some charcoal colored interior vinyl dye I bought to do the center dash with, I think it's a pretty close match for the factory dark gray I have in mine. Should be a good cover for the black filler in the crack. I've used it bonding lots of plastics, mainly HDPE and PVC, and once it cures it's virtually indestructible. About $6 a pack at Wal Mart.

87804
 
I have the same door panels, and first the driver side developed that crack, then the passenger side later. I took the panel off, mixed up some 2-part epoxy, and applied that with some fiberglass mesh to the back side of the door panel. Once that dried, that crack was never going to keep going. Some have posted on here about filling the crack on the outside of the panel with some sort of colored silicone sealer, and were able to sort of match the texture; I just used a black sharpie to cover the white that showed on mine. I can post a photo later if you want.

Can you please post some detailed pictures of your epoxied door panels?
 
I have the same door panels, and first the driver side developed that crack, then the passenger side later. I took the panel off, mixed up some 2-part epoxy, and applied that with some fiberglass mesh to the back side of the door panel. Once that dried, that crack was never going to keep going. Some have posted on here about filling the crack on the outside of the panel with some sort of colored silicone sealer, and were able to sort of match the texture; I just used a black sharpie to cover the white that showed on mine. I can post a photo later if you want.

This sounds like the ticket. Thanks. Ya. Pics would be great!
 
Can you please post some detailed pictures of your epoxied door panels?
I unfortunately did not take any photos of the process, at least that I can remember. I will check when I get home. If not, all I can show is the panel now on the door. To show you the inside, I'd have to remove the panel...

Like I said, I used the 2-part epoxy, and layered about 4 layers of fiberglass mesh, a little bigger than the crack, on the inside using that epoxy mix, and let it dry overnight. The passenger side was easier, as I caught it sooner, and the crack was smaller.
 
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I unfortunately did not take any photos of the process, at least that I can remember. I will check when I get home. If not, all I can show is the panel now on the door. To show you the inside, I'd have to remove the panel...

Like I said, I used the 2-part epoxy, and layered about 4 layers of fiberglass mesh, a little bigger than the crack, on the inside using that epoxy mix, and let it dry overnight. The passenger side was easier, as I caught it sooner, and the crack was smaller.

I think the fiberglass mesh is the key. That will keep the crack from getting bigger. Whereas the thin line the epoxy holds together could easily come apart. Much more so than if you backed with a good chunk of mesh fiberglass. That would hold alot of pressure on that crack from getting any bigger.
 
I cut a small strip of sheet metal (about 1"x3") and hand formed it to the shape of the door panel. I used J-B KwikWeld to fasten it to the back side of the panel. A small bit oozed through and I smoothed it out to fill in the crack on the front side of the panel.

View attachment 87868
This is overall the best approach...you have to reinforce the panel by tying both sides back together so that anything you put in it will stay because when you feel a crack like that you simply don't have any surface area.

You can make the aluminum piece bite even better by roughing up the plastic and drilling holes in the aluminum so you get both a chemical and mechanical Bond.

Once you get the panel where it is really reinforced you can even use black RTV silicone and get good results.

Stabilization of the panel is the key.

I've looked at the door panels over and over and the only thing I can think of is that it's a little weak up there due to the cut for the door handle, but I realize I'm just speculating and the crack typically is a little forward of the handle.
 
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This is overall the best approach...you have to reinforce the panel by tying both sides back together so that anything you put in it will stay because when you feel a crack like that you simply don't have any surface area.

You can make the aluminum piece bite even better by roughing up the plastic and drilling holes in the aluminum so you get both a chemical and mechanical Bond.

Once you get the panel where it is really reinforced you can even use black RTV silicone and get good results.

Stabilization of the panel is the key.

I've looked at the door panels over and over and the only thing I can think of is that it's a little weak up there due to the cut for the door handle, but I realize I'm just speculating and the crack typically is a little forward of the handle.
I agree. I used the fiberglass mesh just to give the patch some kind of reinforcing connection to both sides. Time will tell, but it's been at least 6 months since I did the driver door panel, and about a month and a half since the passenger side. Neither has gotten any wider or longer since the backside patch.

Here's a couple of photos of the cracks today. As you can see in the pix, there's a bit of a gap that I could stand to fill with a dark grey or black glue/filler, just to hide the gap:

Driver side:
IMG_0165[1].JPG


Passenger side:
IMG_0159[1].JPG
 
I agree. I used the fiberglass mesh just to give the patch some kind of reinforcing connection to both sides. Time will tell, but it's been at least 6 months since I did the driver door panel, and about a month and a half since the passenger side. Neither has gotten any wider or longer since the backside patch.

Here's a couple of photos of the cracks today. As you can see in the pix, there's a bit of a gap that I could stand to fill with a dark grey or black glue/filler, just to hide the gap:

Driver side:
View attachment 87918

Passenger side:
View attachment 87919
Black rtv really works in there.
 
Plastic welding would be best but you could use a small piece of stainless window screen and melt it into the backside with a soldering iron. That will reinforce it and then some 2k epoxy on the outside. I have duplicated the “grain” look by heating it up, patting it with a crumpled microfiber towel and then using a hot paper clip to put the deeper markings in it. All depends on how crazy you want to get to making it look like it was never there.
 
I know this thread is old, but how is everyone holding the cracked area tight together while things dry? Not your usual wood shop clamps for this odd shaped piece.
 
I know this thread is old, but how is everyone holding the cracked area tight together while things dry? Not your usual wood shop clamps for this odd shaped

I have not done this yet. But i would support the center near the crack with a 2x4. Or something of appropriate height. Then apply weight to the ends. Flexing the middle door panel crack together.

Otherwise you could dye your epoxy a close color. Or paint over the panels and cracks.
 
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Just so you know this has been a problem for years. This is my 05 TJ and my 95 YJ with metal and it still has this same crack

Window tear.jpg


window tear2.jpg
 
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