OP
Fixing three big mistakes....or otherwise known as LJ build number 2.
- Thread starter UND_Sioux
- Start date
I think you need to JUST bite the bullet and get a donor vehicle. You're stalking every engine swap thread and drooling all over the computer screen. You know you want that Hemi...
WOW nice find. Guys have used the Savvy truss on JK axels so it might. If not just get a mini truss and weld it on. I have a Rubicon Express axle swap bracket kit on my HP44 and it works with the midarm kit.
If I didn't have the motorhome project I probably would. The motorhome is getting a full suspension and brake overhaul this winter. Realistically, it should only take me a couple weekends to do that work...but we all know how that goes.
Now I that I know who's doing this swap...I'm VERY interested to follow along. That LS controlled 455 you were building was a work of art. Big undertaking though. I'm running mine with the 403. And then I'll build another 403. Maybe I'll put TBI on...but the carb is running it pretty good right now. Getting about 11 mpg. Its slow and smelly, but when I'm cruising in that I'm not in a hurry anyway.
Believe me I know all about LIFE getting in the way. Plus the motorhome is really cool so it's worthy.
OP
Well that was a huge PITA. Anybody who has ever looked under the hood of a Ram 1500 knows that half of the engine is under the cowl/dashboard. Access to the rear of the engine to lift is nearly impossible. The fixture helps, but it is really not designed to lift both the engine and transmission. I made it work though.
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OP
In the meantime while I'm collecting parts for my build, I decided to upgrade the radio. I went with Polk Audio 5.25s in the dash and sound bar (pods). I'm still planning on adding a subwoofer sometime in the future. I"ll probably do it when I add front and rear cameras which I'll do when I figure out what bumpers/tire carrier I'll ultimately run.
Out with the old:
Tried to match the new black bezel to the dash with some SEM Dark Slate Gray:
Added a USB port from Amazon in place of one of the power outlets. I'm not sure if there is usually a lighter and then a power outlet, but ultimately I didn't need two outlets. The USB/Aux-in pigtail was very close to the correct size. I had to shave a bit off the opening:
Finished product. Color is pretty close and I think it looks pretty good. Can't wait for the sub and cameras:
Out with the old:
Tried to match the new black bezel to the dash with some SEM Dark Slate Gray:
Added a USB port from Amazon in place of one of the power outlets. I'm not sure if there is usually a lighter and then a power outlet, but ultimately I didn't need two outlets. The USB/Aux-in pigtail was very close to the correct size. I had to shave a bit off the opening:
Finished product. Color is pretty close and I think it looks pretty good. Can't wait for the sub and cameras:
OP
OP
So now this is where I have to start making some decisions. I bought this Currie housing because the price was reasonable, and a few weeks ago I found an ARB for a JK Rubicon which is what this axle uses. Now I just need 35 spline shafts, bearings, and a cover and I'll be good to go.
I need to make a decision on the suspension setup. My new (used) frame has a couple issue that need to be addressed. The minor accident that sent the Jeep to the scrap yard pushed the rear axle over and bent a few brackets. The track bar bracket was mangled. @mrblaine hooked me up with one that he had taken off. I also picked up some new upper spring perches since one was damaged and I was most likely going to relocate them anyway. I'd also need to replace one upper control arm mount on the frame which I can get from Barnes.
I started this build really wanting to do the Savvy Mid-arm and I'd still like to; but I not sure it is worth the effort. The front truss would have to be modified to fit the slightly larger Currie housing and the tube diameter difference would require the passenger side support to be completely replaced most likely. The rear isn't as bad, but the truss would also have to be modified to fit around the larger housing.
I keep coming back to "do I need it". I know I don't. With that said, it is sure a lot easier to cut off brackets and weld on new ones with the body off than it would be to do it later. It would probably balance out. The hassle to modify the trusses would probably offset the hassle later for installing the mid-arm down the road after this is all put back together. I need to pull the trigger one way or the other sooner than later.
I need to make a decision on the suspension setup. My new (used) frame has a couple issue that need to be addressed. The minor accident that sent the Jeep to the scrap yard pushed the rear axle over and bent a few brackets. The track bar bracket was mangled. @mrblaine hooked me up with one that he had taken off. I also picked up some new upper spring perches since one was damaged and I was most likely going to relocate them anyway. I'd also need to replace one upper control arm mount on the frame which I can get from Barnes.
I started this build really wanting to do the Savvy Mid-arm and I'd still like to; but I not sure it is worth the effort. The front truss would have to be modified to fit the slightly larger Currie housing and the tube diameter difference would require the passenger side support to be completely replaced most likely. The rear isn't as bad, but the truss would also have to be modified to fit around the larger housing.
I keep coming back to "do I need it". I know I don't. With that said, it is sure a lot easier to cut off brackets and weld on new ones with the body off than it would be to do it later. It would probably balance out. The hassle to modify the trusses would probably offset the hassle later for installing the mid-arm down the road after this is all put back together. I need to pull the trigger one way or the other sooner than later.
JK width or TJ width on the 35 spline shafts? I know of a set posted a few days ago on FB marketplace for 500. Very nice shape RCV fronts.
OP
Both are TJ width. The front Carbon is already built with 30 spline. I'm looking for 35 spline rears at TJ width.
G2 should have those since that is what they use to build the Currie housing HP rear Dana 60 with Dana 44 housing ends. They buy the empty housings from Currie and throw in their 35 spline TJ Dana 44 axle shafts to finish it off.
OP
I've realized that 2022 may not be the best year to do a build due to the supply chain issues, but I'm going to just have to make the best of it. The work will probably be a little schizophrenic since I'll be waiting for some parts. In the meantime, I'm going to start with what I can do and that is to start on these raised body mount brackets.
These are the TNT Customs 1.25" body lift brackets. I ordered a Savvy Body lift that I'll use on the front and the back (unless I raise the frame). Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on how you look at it), I have these torque boxes already. I'll most likely need them to repair the body at a future date. In the meantime, I can use them as a jig to make sure the body mount brackets are in the correct location.
I'm using the TNT pucks to set the torque box at the +1.25" height. I'll start with the middle and cut off the existing bracket, tack on the new one, and the move to the other two one at a time. A bit tedious, but it gets it done. It is a lot easier to weld without the body on too.
I think I need to go buy more flap wheels.
These are the TNT Customs 1.25" body lift brackets. I ordered a Savvy Body lift that I'll use on the front and the back (unless I raise the frame). Fortunately (or unfortunately depending on how you look at it), I have these torque boxes already. I'll most likely need them to repair the body at a future date. In the meantime, I can use them as a jig to make sure the body mount brackets are in the correct location.
I'm using the TNT pucks to set the torque box at the +1.25" height. I'll start with the middle and cut off the existing bracket, tack on the new one, and the move to the other two one at a time. A bit tedious, but it gets it done. It is a lot easier to weld without the body on too.
I think I need to go buy more flap wheels.
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OP
Well my Hemi mounts just showed up this afternoon. I ordered them from Holley/Hooker Blackheart.
Motor Mount Brackets. These things are stout.
The motor mounts themselves are the clamshell type. The one thing I was not a fan of is the polyurethane isolator. I just don't like the extra NVH and I think it is unnecessary to go poly unless you are putting in frame twisting power. After looking at these and a bit of research, it looked to me that the clamshell was modeled after the F-Body LS type of mount. I purchased a GM set (that I could return if I was wrong) to see if they were the same. If I'm right, it cost me an extra $100 in total.
This is the transmission mount setup. I like the way they did it using the OEM TJ Transmission mount. I loosely mounted it together to the tail housing adapter just to see how it goes together.
Lastly, the steering pillow block bracket. It moves the steering shaft a smidge to the left. I may be able to bend it a bit to adjust for the body lift if necessary.
Not sure why that steering bracket had to ship in a box this big:
Then that box was put in a box this big:
Motor Mount Brackets. These things are stout.
The motor mounts themselves are the clamshell type. The one thing I was not a fan of is the polyurethane isolator. I just don't like the extra NVH and I think it is unnecessary to go poly unless you are putting in frame twisting power. After looking at these and a bit of research, it looked to me that the clamshell was modeled after the F-Body LS type of mount. I purchased a GM set (that I could return if I was wrong) to see if they were the same. If I'm right, it cost me an extra $100 in total.
This is the transmission mount setup. I like the way they did it using the OEM TJ Transmission mount. I loosely mounted it together to the tail housing adapter just to see how it goes together.
Lastly, the steering pillow block bracket. It moves the steering shaft a smidge to the left. I may be able to bend it a bit to adjust for the body lift if necessary.
Not sure why that steering bracket had to ship in a box this big:
Then that box was put in a box this big:
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So... They are recommending poly motor mounts and reusing the factory rubber transmission mount? That's no good...
OP
That’s correct.
Edit: I did see this morning that energy suspension does make a Poly TJ style transmission mount if one wanted to go all poly.
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OP
Well the rubber isolators from the GM brackets worked as I expected. I started on the the frame side brackets today. The Holley brackets require you to cut off a little bit of the factory motor mount pads. You then bolt the brackets in place, test fit, and then weld. I won't be able to weld until I get my skid plate delivered so I can make sure everything is straight with the correct offset to the passenger side. I also need to remove the tail housing and install the transfer case adapter, at least temporarily for mock up purposes.
Have you seen the Holley terminator kits for Gen 3 Hemi swaps? Its plug and play and also allows you to adjust and tune your setup. Its fairly new.
OP
I have. There are a few issues with their setup. First of all, it won't control the 545rfe transmission. The Terminator is basically designed for older muscle cars or setups using a manual or a non-computer controlled automatic. Secondly, it won't run the stock gauges which I'd like. Third, it costs as much as having Hotwire Auto build a brand new harness that can use the factory ECU and still run the Jeep gauge cluster.