Fluid Film vs Eastwood

At this point in the game I do not have access to any special tools; I will need to use something that does not require anything, lol.
 
And where exactly would I drill the drain holes in the frame? Is this something that would be good to do with a recently purchased 2002 or is it too little, too late?
 
At this point in the game I do not have access to any special tools; I will need to use something that does not require anything, lol.

No special tools needed for either. I just used the optional extension for the fluid film.

Fluid Film Spray can Extension Wand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLUGXFI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

And where exactly would I drill the drain holes in the frame? Is this something that would be good to do with a recently purchased 2002 or is it too little, too late?

I drilled mine right in from of the rear lower control arm mount. I think too little too late depends on the current condition of the frame. If it's a rusty pile of crap, I wouldn't suggest drilling holes in already jacked up metal. =) :)
 
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No special tools needed for either. I just used the optional extension for the fluid film.

Fluid Film Spray can Extension Wand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLUGXFI/?tag=wranglerorg-20



I drilled mine right in from of the rear lower control arm mount. I think too little too late depends on the current condition of the frame. If it's a rusty pile of crap, I wouldn't suggest drilling holes in already jacked up metal. =) :)

Excellent, thank you. As far as I can tell, the rust is not bad at all. I just want to do what I can before it gets any colder here in NJ.
 
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Reviving an old thread as I have a couple of questions.

It seems like Fluid Film is a temporary solution when used externally. Should the same be expected if used internally (inside the frame) and if so, how long would you expect to get out of it? It obviously seems to be much less expensive than Eastwood, which is quite pricey.

I’ve seen others mention using waste oil internally. Can anyone recommend this?
 
I have had my jeep for a year and a half. I sprayed MULTIPLE cans of fluid film in the frame, after cleaning it out real good, and it is still in there and "cloudy" as if I just sprayed it in there. I did the whole underneath as well. If I ever need to get it off, to work on something, I'll just pressure wash it.
 
Reviving an old thread as I have a couple of questions.

It seems like Fluid Film is a temporary solution when used externally. Should the same be expected if used internally (inside the frame) and if so, how long would you expect to get out of it? It obviously seems to be much less expensive than Eastwood, which is quite pricey.

I’ve seen others mention using waste oil internally. Can anyone recommend this?

Based on the date of my previous post in this thread, I’ve had the Fluid Film in the frame of my Jeep for two years (I really can’t believe that it’s been that long). I looked in my frame last weekend, and it still looks “wet.
 
I'm gonna revive this thread for updates and advice. Went to another reputable shop today and they said they would do the FF treatment then "black wax" spray a year later. Shop 1 was pushing Eastwood internal and external coating. Shop 2 does work for guys from Long Island and Nantucket and said that FF has proven to be the best treatment they could find.

From reading this and other threads it seems that FF is my best route. Guess I would have the shop do the first coat then I can touch up annually. That about right?
 
Not to hijack the thread revival...but for those that use fluid film, how is it about dust and dirt sticking to it? I kindof imagine a tacky coating on my entire undercarriage the exact color of Colorado dust.
 
Not to hijack the thread revival...but for those that use fluid film, how is it about dust and dirt sticking to it? I kindof imagine a tacky coating on my entire undercarriage the exact color of Colorado dust.
You would be correct!
It does attract dust and dirt but I don't worry about it too much. If you need to work on it, you can pressure wash it off, then reapply. The dust/dirt on mine doesn't "stand out", rather blends in.
 
Just use an extension tube on the spray can to get deep into all the torque tube holes and inside frame. It would be extremely tricky to get all that out now and the use Eastwood product. Anywhere the FF remains will prevent the Eastwood from working, and would likley creep underneath. Stick with the FF.
For what it's worth, everywhere I've had the FF on for a while the rust underneath (surface rust, not rot) has dissolved. Or some how dissapeared. Completely gone.
If you need to do some work under your TJ the FF can be a bit annoying, but hit the area with some soap and water and it will come off enough to work on withou you getting it on you. Just be sure to reapply. A bit of wet grit doesn't bother me at all.
 
Reviving an old thread as I have a couple of questions.

It seems like Fluid Film is a temporary solution when used externally. Should the same be expected if used internally (inside the frame) and if so, how long would you expect to get out of it? It obviously seems to be much less expensive than Eastwood, which is quite pricey.

I’ve seen others mention using waste oil internally. Can anyone recommend this?

Just bumping this question, because it's the same one I had while reading this thread. Sounds to me like Fluid Film stays a bit 'wet'/sticky, which might have the consequence of attracting/holding dirt, and also requiring semi-annual reapplications? I live in SC, so I'm hoping that by using Eastwood products I might not have to turn this into an annual job.

Am I wrong about Fluid Film, or is it fair to say that it's a more temporary (good in that it's easily-removed, bad in that it requires reapplication) than the Eastwood products?
 
Just bumping this question, because it's the same one I had while reading this thread. Sounds to me like Fluid Film stays a bit 'wet'/sticky, which might have the consequence of attracting/holding dirt, and also requiring semi-annual reapplications? I live in SC, so I'm hoping that by using Eastwood products I might not have to turn this into an annual job.

Am I wrong about Fluid Film, or is it fair to say that it's a more temporary (good in that it's easily-removed, bad in that it requires reapplication) than the Eastwood products?
I stayed away from Eastwood because once it's in there it's not coming out.

Fluid film will absorb dirt but it's not terribly difficult to remove. I spray the entire underside of my LJ every fall and then wash off the Fluid Film in the spring with a pressure washer.

I don't really care that Fluid Film absorbs dirt because it does such a great job keeping salt and moisture away from the metal surfaces.

Also: Plug those out frame holes so that the tires don't throw crap into the frame.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZ7C8RC/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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Just bumping this question, because it's the same one I had while reading this thread. Sounds to me like Fluid Film stays a bit 'wet'/sticky, which might have the consequence of attracting/holding dirt, and also requiring semi-annual reapplications? I live in SC, so I'm hoping that by using Eastwood products I might not have to turn this into an annual job.

Am I wrong about Fluid Film, or is it fair to say that it's a more temporary (good in that it's easily-removed, bad in that it requires reapplication) than the Eastwood products?
inside the frame:
if the frame is clean, no rust inside, eastwoods is the way to go.
if rust has gotten a hold, it's best to smother it with something that can't lock moisture in, like FF or similar product.

outside is usually FF or similar. don't coat it with crap that can seal in moisture like undercoatings and bed liner spray unless it's pristine and your dead sure it's 100% dry in every nook and cranny..
 
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inside the frame:
if the frame is clean, no rust inside, eastwoods is the way to go.
if rust has gotten a hold, it's best to smother it with something that can't lock moisture in, like FF or similar product.

outside is usually FF or similar. don't coat it with crap that can seal in moisture like undercoatings and bed liner spray unless it's pristine and your dead sure it's 100% dry in every nook and cranny..
Why not use Eastwood if the frame is rusty inside? Isn’t that what it is designed for? The zinc phosphate is a rust converter isn’t it? I have yet to us the Eastwood internal frame coating, but I am intending to. My thoughts were to use it, then apply fluid film over it once it’s fully cured.
 
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The Eastwood coating is good for clean rust free places. Maybe s. Cal is a good environment for it. There have been all sorts of zinc coatings through the years. Haven't you ever seen those hot dipped zinc garbage cans? They are as heavy a coating as you could get, yet they always rot out on the bottom. Every one I've ever used or seen. 1 scratch in the coating and moisture gets to the base metal.
A better solution (to me) would be to either use a Cosmoline product that will dry to just a waxy surface, yet will still creep if it gets compromised, or the Fluid Film that will stay moist from the lanolin and will hold some sand and grit, but off the metal surface, and need occasional recoating. That's not such a bad thing though. It means you get under your Jeep a couple times a year (minimum) to check everything out. Plus it wicks like crazy getting into tight seams and creases to displace any moisture. This is especially ideal for the bottom inside your door seams and torque tubes. The frame is tricky in some places too. Use the wand that can stretch directly to the can and spray in a 360*
Inside these areas.
 
i talked with an Eastwood rep at the store. the recommendation was application to clean metals. not that it won't cover and convert some rust, but if it doesn't do a total job it just gonna seal junk in.

they also suggested when i mentioned it had previously been FF'd, if any oil based product was applied b4 a product like this it needs to be totally cleaned b4 application or it won't adhere.

and FF after eastwoods will soften it, FF is designed to penetrate.
 
The Eastwood coating is good for clean rust free places. Maybe s. Cal is a good environment for it. There have been all sorts of zinc coatings through the years. Haven't you ever seen those hot dipped zinc garbage cans? They are as heavy a coating as you could get, yet they always rot out on the bottom. Every one I've ever used or seen. 1 scratch in the coating and moisture gets to the base metal.
A better solution (to me) would be to either use a Cosmoline product that will dry to just a waxy surface, yet will still creep if it gets compromised, or the Fluid Film that will stay moist from the lanolin and will hold some sand and grit, but off the metal surface, and need occasional recoating. That's not such a bad thing though. It means you get under your Jeep a couple times a year (minimum) to check everything out. Plus it wicks like crazy getting into tight seams and creases to displace any moisture. This is especially ideal for the bottom inside your door seams and torque tubes. The frame is tricky in some places too. Use the wand that can stretch directly to the can and spray in a 360*
Inside these areas.
you ever pull your rear flares, there's a hole in the sidewall that'll let you shoot into the cavity behind the roll bar and above the torque box. it's the inside of that hump behind the seat belt gearbox.

and if you pop a pin out of the bottom of the door molding the FF 360 wand will fit into the bottoms of the doors.