Ford 8.8 Axle Swap Info / FAQ

Just purchased a 97 with this exact setup seems to have been done right first jeep I've owned when the gentleman I bought it off of told me everything that was on it didn't make much sense till now u have answered ALOT of questions I had in one post can't wait to try it out now lol
 
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Just purchased a 97 4 in lift 33 12-50s with this exact setup 4.88 gears seems to be done right first jeep I've owned when the gentleman I bought it off of told me everything that was on it didn't make much sense to me but after this read I'm very happy u have answered ALOT of questions I had can't wait to try this bad boy out
 
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Chris...Glad you found and posted this info. Tim and I helped write this on Jeeps Unlimited Forums which is now gone. As I work for Ford, I was able to get most of the specs listed. For the last few months I was worried that all the pages were gone forever.
 
Chris...Glad you found and posted this info. Tim and I helped write this on Jeeps Unlimited Forums which is now gone. As I work for Ford, I was able to get most of the specs listed. For the last few months I was worried that all the pages were gone forever.

I'm glad I found it too! Actually, that's kind of been my goal with this site is taking every single piece of TJ info I can find and compiling it one place (this site) so that way it never goes away or vanishes. This site won't be going anywhere... ever. So it's safe here for everyone to find from now until forever (or at least the end of mankind!).

Thanks for putting this together, I know this has been tremendously helpful to a lot of people.
 
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View attachment 1783
Good day everyone. I am doing an 8.8 build and install right now. The 8.8 or a Currie 9" are the toughest rear axles available for the TJ. Except for maybe a high pinon Dana 60.

Now then, with all this said, the real question is WHY? Why do you want to go through the expense of such a project. What is it that you really want to do with your Jeep. Set your goals and don’t buy things because ‘it’s good enough for now’. Your throwing your money down the drain. Trust me. Plan your 8.8 axle upgrade accordingly.

WHY: To really answer this question you should ask your self, again, what it is that you really want to do with your Jeep. What percentage of on or off-road is your Jeep going to do. My Jeep, El Diablo, is a 2000 4.0 Wrangler Sport. I run El Diablo about 95 percent of the time off-road. He is trailered to every event. He lives off-road.

Trail Experience: If your going to run mostly off-road, and want to do an 8.8 axle upgrade, some major changes should be done to your Jeep. Get ready to spend some big bucks.

1.) Under Jeep protection (armor) - El Diablo runs with Clayton Off-Road engine and transfer case 1/4" skid plating. (Trust me, the first time you put a hole in your engine oil pan you’ll see why you need this.) Fuel tank skid plate - El Diablo uses a WARN fuel tank skid plate. (That rusted up fuel tank support that comes from the factory is NOT a skid plate.)

2.) Lift (a) - 33" tires will require at least a 2" lift. 35" tires should have a 4" lift. You will also need to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) in the transfer case, or snap the output shaft you will. To install a SYE, you will also have to change out the drive shaft. El Diablo uses a Tom Woods Custom Drive shaft. You will also have to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case tail shaft. Your axle assemblies will need to be set up for whatever type of lift you want to use. More on this later. Also, I usually do not recommend anything over a 4" lift because of stability issues.

3.) Rear axle change - Your front Dana 30 axle, believe it or not, is pretty tough. An alloy axle
shaft upgrade for the Dana 30 should work fine. But, the rear Dana 35 axle - unless you have a TJ Rubicon or special order Sport with Dana 44 - when you start running 35" tires, snap an axle you will. Trust me.

▸ Gearing - Running mostly off-road will require you to lower the F&R axle gear ratio. There’s a term called ‘crawling’. Most TJ 4.0 Jeep gear ratios are 3.70. Totally inadequate for serious off-roading. El Diablo runs G2 4.88 gears.

▸ Lockers - Unless you have a TJ Rubicon or special order Sport with Dana 44, your Dana 30/35 axles will have open differentials. Most off roader’s usually use a differential spool, Detroit Locker, some sort of air or electric locker. El Diablo uses ARB Selectable Air Lockers F & R with a heavy duty ARB compressor. Why I don’t like most spools is because they don’t release on sharp corners.

▸ Ford 8.8 upgrade - Why the 8.8 over a Dana 44? Quit actually they are both good axles. But, it gets back to what I originally asked, what it is you really want to do with your Jeep.

Why I choose the 8.8 over a Dana 44 is because the 8.8 is tougher in many ways. First of
all, Ford originally designed this axle for trucks, heavy SUV’s, and performance Mustangs. The
axle shafts themselves in stock form is tougher than an alloy axle shaft for Dana 44 or 35.
Also, the axle housing is thicker and bigger. The axle bearings are bigger. The differential
carrier is heavy duty.

For those U-Tube junkies out there, there is a lot of cheap wrecking yard finds. Take this videos for what they are worth. Trust me, there is no cheap way around any of this.

Once you get your junk yard find, the axle still has to be totally cleaned inside-out. All the original mountings have to be removed and welds ground clean. Then the new mountings have to be welded on before you can begin the axle build.

Now then, I purchased my 8.8 for $20.00. Great deal. Now the axle assembly needs to be upgraded for off-road use and fitment under El Diablo.

Purchased - G2 4.88 gear set, G2 gear set install kit, a replacement yoke for 1310 stock U-Joint, ARB selectable air locker for 8.8 - 31spline, AZTEC Industries TJ 8.8 Swap Kit with Truss, new rotors, brake pads, parking brake shoes, parking brake cables, caliper assemblies, 3x quarts Royal Purple 75w-90 full synthetic gear oil. A few other this & that I haven’t discussed. Around $3,000.00. Yep. If you cut corners in your 8.8 build you will regret it.

Now, why did I want a truss for the 8.8? Simply, the ability to upgrade and added strength to the axle to help keep it from twisting. All welding should be completed to your new 8.8 while its still in bare form.

4.) Lift (b) - Remember I asked earlier what it is you really want to do with your Jeep. Also remember I told you to get ready to spend some big bucks.

Short arm lifts are the most economically way to go. They are good up to a 4" lift. Articulation is good for most aftermarket brands. Make sure to shop wisely.

However, long arm kits, in my opinion, are superior in many ways. I mentioned articulation. They articulate better and at a faster rate. They absorb the pounding better. Also they hold your axle assemblies in place better. There is also a better selection of high grade shocks available. Remember, plan your 8.8 axle upgrade accordingly.

El Diablo will have a GenRight Off Road 4 Link Rear Kit, Double Triangulated with Johnny Joint Links mounted on his 8.8. Why I chose this, because the triangulation will hold the 8.8 axle firmly in place in any direction at any speed. And I can mount Fox or King brand shocks.

There really is way too much information to cover, as you can tell. I hope some of this helps.
Milt
Hey, Im working on a 8.8 and on all the components for the build. I was wondering how you like you 8.8 and if any regrets ? how are you dealing with the slightly narrow axle and offset pinion, also what did your pinion angle end up being after you install?
 
Hey, Im working on a 8.8 and on all the components for the build. I was wondering how you like you 8.8 and if any regrets ? how are you dealing with the slightly narrow axle and offset pinion, also what did your pinion angle end up being after you install?
Loved it! I ran 4.56 gears and an ECTED electric locker and never had a problem with it. My '98 TJ had the RE 5.5" long arm kit on it so my pinion angle was 18 degrees. One inch spacer/adapters were used (hubcentric) to bring the width back out to help the look since I had a Wagoneer Dana 44 in the front. The center pumpkin off-set is designed into the axle to help resist the twisting torque when under load. I'm starting my 8.8 build for my present 97 TJ this weekend!

Greg
 
in talking with so many people with great advice, im looking at and SYE & CV drive shaft & artec truss & adjustable upper rear control arms. what brackets did you use and do you have the SYE and new driveshaft? im trying to keep the cost of this axle swap down but I dont want to skimp on things i really need.
 
in talking with so many people with great advice, im looking at and SYE & CV drive shaft & artec truss & adjustable upper rear control arms. what brackets did you use and do you have the SYE and new driveshaft? im trying to keep the cost of this axle swap down but I dont want to skimp on things i really need.
The SYE and CV shaft are not required, but highly recommended. I used the Ballistic Fabs bracket kit, no truss as I ran a regular four link rear suspension system with track bar. I installed the SYE and shaft kit about a year earlier when I used the RE 4.5 inch Super-flex kit. Adjustable control arms are a good idea to tune it once installed. Just eye-balling the pinion at about 15 degrees and sweeten to taste!
 
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I've been looking at ecgs built 8.8 for the tj for my next upgrade. Have you heard anything about them as far as quality? It's pricey but my buddy just chewed up his gears on his Dana 35 on the road making a turn a month ago. This is his second one in 2 years that he's grenaded. One on a trail. makes me kind of nervous. Thought about building one but after pricing lockers, gears, tools I'll need etc and the time spent cursing in my garage, I might as well buy one to just drop in. 4 to 5+ grand though is pretty steep but I plan on keeping this one.


Ok I just noticed you are in Seattle. That is great, In March they have a huge 4x4 swap meet at the Puyallup fairgrounds. I mean it is huge. I believe it only runs for one day so look for it. I bring this up because a while ago I built a massive YJ, and I bought a rear end 8.8 out of a Mercury Mountaineer (It is the same as a Explorer) In fact it is a little lesser known so you if you find one, you may be able to get it cheaper. but I got mine for 100 bucks even.

Even if you find your 8.8 of which this post is a little old so it is possible, still go to the 4x4 swap meet. It is like the mecca for 4 wheelers. I have considered coming back just for the 4x4 swap meet in March. But shipping a 8.8 for my TJ back to Arizona would cost more than it is worth.

I think you could build a whole jeep if you wanted with all of the parts for sale there. It is pretty incredible. Sadly we have nothing like that here in AZ.

Good Luck!
 
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Well I found this in a build thread on another forum but figured it was a good add to this 8.8 thread.
 
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Quick question, say I go for the 8.8 swap, say I found a d2 with lockers in good shape and with good internals, would I be able to mount it as is to the tj? Money wise think it would cost around the same as a super 35 with arb, and it would be tougher wouldn't it? I mean limited slip vs arb and all, and I could upgrade while super 35 is as good as it gets on Dana 35.... right?
 
Quick question, say I go for the 8.8 swap, say I found a d2 with lockers in good shape and with good internals, would I be able to mount it as is to the tj? Money wise think it would cost around the same as a super 35 with arb, and it would be tougher wouldn't it? I mean limited slip vs arb and all, and I could upgrade while super 35 is as good as it gets on Dana 35.... right?
You'd need to add the TJ brackets before installing it, if that's what you're asking.
 
Lol yeah I know about the brackets so meant more about the internals.
You can run whatever axle you want in whatever state you want, but if I were you I'd at a minimum replace the outer bearings and axle seals and give it fresh oil after spraying the whole inside down with brake cleaner or something.

If the brakes are in okay shape just run em, but otherwise make them safe first.
 
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I know, I eventually would eventually fine tune it an upgrade internals but want to see that's the minimum at least to run them while I save again after the expanse.
 
View attachment 1783
Good day everyone. I am doing an 8.8 build and install right now. The 8.8 or a Currie 9" are the toughest rear axles available for the TJ. Except for maybe a high pinon Dana 60.

Now then, with all this said, the real question is WHY? Why do you want to go through the expense of such a project. What is it that you really want to do with your Jeep. Set your goals and don’t buy things because ‘it’s good enough for now’. Your throwing your money down the drain. Trust me. Plan your 8.8 axle upgrade accordingly.

WHY: To really answer this question you should ask your self, again, what it is that you really want to do with your Jeep. What percentage of on or off-road is your Jeep going to do. My Jeep, El Diablo, is a 2000 4.0 Wrangler Sport. I run El Diablo about 95 percent of the time off-road. He is trailered to every event. He lives off-road.

Trail Experience: If your going to run mostly off-road, and want to do an 8.8 axle upgrade, some major changes should be done to your Jeep. Get ready to spend some big bucks.

1.) Under Jeep protection (armor) - El Diablo runs with Clayton Off-Road engine and transfer case 1/4" skid plating. (Trust me, the first time you put a hole in your engine oil pan you’ll see why you need this.) Fuel tank skid plate - El Diablo uses a WARN fuel tank skid plate. (That rusted up fuel tank support that comes from the factory is NOT a skid plate.)

2.) Lift (a) - 33" tires will require at least a 2" lift. 35" tires should have a 4" lift. You will also need to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) in the transfer case, or snap the output shaft you will. To install a SYE, you will also have to change out the drive shaft. El Diablo uses a Tom Woods Custom Drive shaft. You will also have to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case tail shaft. Your axle assemblies will need to be set up for whatever type of lift you want to use. More on this later. Also, I usually do not recommend anything over a 4" lift because of stability issues.

3.) Rear axle change - Your front Dana 30 axle, believe it or not, is pretty tough. An alloy axle
shaft upgrade for the Dana 30 should work fine. But, the rear Dana 35 axle - unless you have a TJ Rubicon or special order Sport with Dana 44 - when you start running 35" tires, snap an axle you will. Trust me.

▸ Gearing - Running mostly off-road will require you to lower the F&R axle gear ratio. There’s a term called ‘crawling’. Most TJ 4.0 Jeep gear ratios are 3.70. Totally inadequate for serious off-roading. El Diablo runs G2 4.88 gears.

▸ Lockers - Unless you have a TJ Rubicon or special order Sport with Dana 44, your Dana 30/35 axles will have open differentials. Most off roader’s usually use a differential spool, Detroit Locker, some sort of air or electric locker. El Diablo uses ARB Selectable Air Lockers F & R with a heavy duty ARB compressor. Why I don’t like most spools is because they don’t release on sharp corners.

▸ Ford 8.8 upgrade - Why the 8.8 over a Dana 44? Quit actually they are both good axles. But, it gets back to what I originally asked, what it is you really want to do with your Jeep.

Why I choose the 8.8 over a Dana 44 is because the 8.8 is tougher in many ways. First of
all, Ford originally designed this axle for trucks, heavy SUV’s, and performance Mustangs. The
axle shafts themselves in stock form is tougher than an alloy axle shaft for Dana 44 or 35.
Also, the axle housing is thicker and bigger. The axle bearings are bigger. The differential
carrier is heavy duty.

For those U-Tube junkies out there, there is a lot of cheap wrecking yard finds. Take this videos for what they are worth. Trust me, there is no cheap way around any of this.

Once you get your junk yard find, the axle still has to be totally cleaned inside-out. All the original mountings have to be removed and welds ground clean. Then the new mountings have to be welded on before you can begin the axle build.

Now then, I purchased my 8.8 for $20.00. Great deal. Now the axle assembly needs to be upgraded for off-road use and fitment under El Diablo.

Purchased - G2 4.88 gear set, G2 gear set install kit, a replacement yoke for 1310 stock U-Joint, ARB selectable air locker for 8.8 - 31spline, AZTEC Industries TJ 8.8 Swap Kit with Truss, new rotors, brake pads, parking brake shoes, parking brake cables, caliper assemblies, 3x quarts Royal Purple 75w-90 full synthetic gear oil. A few other this & that I haven’t discussed. Around $3,000.00. Yep. If you cut corners in your 8.8 build you will regret it.

Now, why did I want a truss for the 8.8? Simply, the ability to upgrade and added strength to the axle to help keep it from twisting. All welding should be completed to your new 8.8 while its still in bare form.

4.) Lift (b) - Remember I asked earlier what it is you really want to do with your Jeep. Also remember I told you to get ready to spend some big bucks.

Short arm lifts are the most economically way to go. They are good up to a 4" lift. Articulation is good for most aftermarket brands. Make sure to shop wisely.

However, long arm kits, in my opinion, are superior in many ways. I mentioned articulation. They articulate better and at a faster rate. They absorb the pounding better. Also they hold your axle assemblies in place better. There is also a better selection of high grade shocks available. Remember, plan your 8.8 axle upgrade accordingly.

El Diablo will have a GenRight Off Road 4 Link Rear Kit, Double Triangulated with Johnny Joint Links mounted on his 8.8. Why I chose this, because the triangulation will hold the 8.8 axle firmly in place in any direction at any speed. And I can mount Fox or King brand shocks.

There really is way too much information to cover, as you can tell. I hope some of this helps.
Milt
How long would you say it took to complete the entire job . I have everything at a friends shop and it’s been over 2 weeks and now going on to three, just wondering
 
I thought it might not be a bad idea to get a lot of the general specs for the swap gathered into one thread. I came across this on the internet that will give you a lot of general info on the Ford 8.8. Enjoy

There are many different variations of the Ford 8.8 axle. One of them is best suited for the use in a Jeep and that would be the Explorer (or Mountaineer) 31 spline 8.8. If you have found one off a Aerostar, Mustang, F-150 etc, you should really pass it up and look for a Explorer axle if you wish to retain a similar track width on your Wrangler. Trying to start your build-up with the wrong axle will be frustrating and expensive although you may have picked it up for cheap in the beginning.

Ford 8.8 assembly specs:
Cover bolt 28-38 ft.lbs.
Pinion bearing preload 16-29 in.lbs.
Pinion bearing preload 8-14 in.lbs (used)
Ring gear backlash .008-.015
Ring gear bolt to case 70-85 ft.lbs
Side bearing caps 70-85 ft.lbs.

Explorer 8.8 Measurements:
Weight (complete assembly w/ brakes etc.): 174 lb.
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30.
Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31.
Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250").
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
(The F-150 8.8 is drum brake and width WMS to WMS is 65.5”.)
Hole diameter for ABS sensor in top of housing: .811".
Bolt size (U-joint flange to yoke) is: 12 x 1.75 x 30 mm
Centerline of housing to C/L of pinion difference is 3.875" toward the P/S.
Pinion offset: P/S to C/L of Pinion, 27-3/4" (no rotor on axle), D/S to C/L of Pinion, 31-5/8" (no rotor on axle). (this measurement is 2.5" more offset to the P/S then a TJ Dana 35).

Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential

How many splines are the axle shafts?
Drivers side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 30-1/2 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern.

Passenger side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 27-5/8 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern

Can I get 35 spline shafts?
Yes, with a little searching I found 28 and 33 splines too. Remeber 8.8 axles are used on many different Ford rigs. Mustangs, Rangers, F150s, Aerostar etc... different axle lengths than the Explorer so if you are looking for aftermarket products make sure you are not looking at something for a Mustang that might not fit an Explorer.

Can I use my drive shaft that I bought for my SYE/Dana 35 set-up? Yes

Is the 8.8 narrower than a Dana 35 rear axle?
Yes but not enough to make a difference when running most aftermarket wheels.1.5" shorter or so. It doesn't matter unless you try running stock rims w/12.5 or wider tires.

Are the 8.8 shafts stronger than Dana 44 shafts?
Yes, also the bearings, pinion and ring gear are also much larger.
Axle shaft Strength and output torque rating by Warn and 4 Wheeler

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
Dana 44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
———————————————-
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]

Will I need that brake proportioning valve from a Rubicon? Probably not

Does the 8.8 offer more ground clearance over the Dana 35 and 44? Not under the differential but the bigger axle tubes lift the rig about 5/8 ".

Is there welding involved? Yes, but the new brackets you put on are much stronger than stock Dana’s. Not a good idea to re use your old Dana 35 brackets

Can I reuse my Dana 35 brackets? Yes, but it is not recomended. The stock Dana 35 brackets are sort of flimsy compared to the beefy aftermarket versions. Some of the brackets available are in fact for Dana 35 axles to replace the weak ones that come factory. Reusing the D-35 brackets is time consuming even if you have the right tools, not a good idea IMO

Should I weld the axle tubes to the cast housing? I would if it had been salvaged from a wrecked rig. If it is new on a crate (in my opinion) don’t bother.

Will my stock sway bar work? Yes, with a minor modification to a passenger side pinion gusset.

Do all 8.8s come with a limited slip? No, read the tag on the housing or remove the cover. 3L73 = 3.73 gears witha "L"imited slip

Where is the gear break for lockers? There is no break. Same locker for 3.73 to 6.14

Do I need a notched cross pin? Yes for 4.56-6.14 to clear ring gear, or notch a gear tooth.

More cross pin info
The 3/4 inch cross pin only fits those rears with the 28 spline count period!
Therefore, the 7/8 inch crosspin is what we are concerned with and it fits Explorer, Mountaineer, F150, and Expedition's with the 8.8 ring gear and 31 spline axles. It also come in those special Mustangs that have the 31 spline axles i.e. Cobra, Steeda, and Rousch.

The axles for Jeep conversion we are keen on are the 96 through 2001 Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer with disc brakes and all that fall into this category with or without limited slip have the 7/8 inch cross pin.

Convert from a 28 to a 31 spline??? Need bigger axle tubes too! The bearing on a 31 spline is much bigger than a 28 spline bearing.

What year ford explorers do I look for as a donor for 31 spline and disc brakes? To get rear disc brakes and 31-spline axle, you need to look for a 1995 to 2001 Explorer or Mountaineer. Earlier years use drum brakes and may be 28-spline. Different vehicles may have the wrong bolt pattern, width, spline count, or brakes. A 2-door Sport Explorer may be a donor past the 2001 cut off. Also, Explorer SportTracs with production dates of August 19, 2002 through June 29, 2005 are equipped with 31-spline axles and rear disc brakes and are exactly what was in the previously listed 95-2001 Explorer. Before Aug 19, 2002, the Sport Tracs were equipped with the smaller 28-spline 8.8 axle shafts and used drum brakes. After June 29, 2005, Sport Tracs were produced with an Independent rear as found on 2002 regular Explorers.* Sport-Trac

What is so great about 8.8? Parts are everywhere, as in axle shafts, covers, brake parts etc..

What's not so great about the 8.8? Weak stock carrier, replace with a carrier type locker like ARB or Detroit (not a lunch box type) this will cure the problem.

Spun axle tubes: Simply weld the tubes into the diff housing before they spin. You are welding to cast steel so now would be the time to ask for a professional's opinion. I have heard of guys tossing the works in a oven before welding, some just go at it cold. Both say their way is right.

Thin stock diff cover: Get some armor.

What kind of locker can I get?
ARB SELECTABLE AIR LOCKER
AUBURN GEAR - ECTED ELECTRIC LOCKER
AUBURN GEAR - HIGH PERFORMANCE LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
AUBURN GEAR - PRO SERIES LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Aussielocker.com
DETROIT LOCKER
E-Z LOCKER - FITS IN FACTORY NON-POSI CASE
EATON - ELOCKER SELECTABLE LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL
EATON - POSI LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
FULL SPOOL - 31 SPLINE - STEEL
MINI SPOOL - 31 SPLINE - C-CLIP COMPATIBLE - STEEL
ORIGINAL STYLE POSI - COMPLETE
POWERTRAX - LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER - FITS IN FACTORY NON-POSI CASE
TRUTRAC LIMITED-SLIP

What is the bolt pattern? 5 on 4.5” just like stock TJ/YJ wheels.

Will my Jeep lug nuts fit the 8.8? In most cases, yes.

What do I do with the speed sensor? leave it in place.

How much do they cost? Free to $1500.00 but you can find them new for around $500.00 in their stock form complete disc to disc.

What do I need for a swap into a tj?
Here are some things I used:

-TeraFlex Bracket kit
-ARB
-U.S. Gears 4.56
-Master install kit (Timken)
-Crane diff cover
-Napa brake line kit P/N 380528 (x2)
-T-hose NAPA P/N 380889
-ZJ E-brake cables (drivers and passenger side)
Mopar P/N 52008904 & 52008905
NAPA P/N 95342 (right) 95347 (left). (not for YJs)
-Driveshaft adapter: Spicer 2-2-1379
-Flange bolts Ford P/N N800594-S100 (x4)
-'03 TJ Rubicon (w/disc) proportioning valve P/N 5083808AA
-3/16" hard brake line about 40" & 18"

HELPFUL SITES be sure to check these out:
Stu-Offroad
Dome & Detour
8.8 Swap
J.E. Towle / DPG Offroad
Chris Overacker / CODE 4x4
Stormtrooper
4x4 Wire Links
The Ranger Station Tech Library
The Ranger Station Tech Library 2

YJ & XJ STUFF:

From M.O.R.E.
-XJ Installation Kit P/N 98600 84-2001 XJ
-XJ E-Brake Cable Kit P/N EB3 Disc Brake F8.8 Only
-Special Yoke P/N 221379 F8.8 to 1310 U-Joint

From Dealership:
-Mopar spring perches
-Tabs for shock mounts
-ZJ ebrake cables from the dealer (for XJ install)
-Flange from spicer dealer $30 (have seen this go from $20-$50)

HELPFUL TIPS:
Stock brake cables won't come off bracket at tub. Pound a deep 13mm socket on the cable end to compress the fingers holding it in place.

Add gear oil through the abs sensor hole at the top. With an 19 degree pinion angle, I just pour three quarts in and call it full.

To replace axle seals, use the end of the removed axle shaft to pry the seal out.

Axle shaft bearings...remove the seal first as above, then slide hammer the bearings out.

Parking brake shoes can make rotor removal a pain after rust sets in, I always machine the inside lip of the rotor (drum section) about 3/8 inch from the edge to the edge about .030 deep so rust won't interfere by dragging on the shoes.

Old parking brake shoes can have the lining come loose from the metal part of the shoe...reglue with two part epoxy if new shoes not readily available...(it's only a parking brake). Parking brake shoes from Ford...$115 set! Autozone...about $20!
So I’m looking at a 99 Ford Explorer v6 4.0 8.8. Would this be a good swap axle?
 
So I’m looking at a 99 Ford Explorer v6 4.0 8.8. Would this be a good swap axle?
Im doing it right now I pulled a d -42 I believe it was from a Ford Explorer its not hard to take out , installing Detroit locker along with control arms. Its the cheapest option if you want get away from the dana 35 , unless you can find a 44 for cheap
 
So i
Im doing it right now I pulled a d -42 I believe it was from a Ford Explorer its not hard to take out , installing Detroit locker along with control arms. Its the cheapest option if you want get away from the dana 35 , unless you can find a 44 for cheap
Yeah the guy told me 500 which seems fair just wanted to make sure that’s a good donor. D -42? What’s that?