Frame Opinions and Options

True story. I will be replacing this frame possibly over the winter. The inside of mine is hideous lol
Damn, that is really unfortunate. On my Tj's inside it's mostly clean. On my Lj's inside the sides and top of the inside is fine, but I can't say anything definitive about the bottom of the inside as it needs to be throughly cleaned out. Too many flakes and dirt. I plan on using a chain tool to beat up the inside and then use eastwood internal spray. I bought 4 cans. I will do the same on the TJ a year down the road. That eastwood aint cheap but it's effective IF the surface is prepped.
 
When you’re talking about corrosion, the outside of the frame isnt the problem. My 2000 TJ spent a couple winters in Upstate NY before moving south. The frame looks just like the OP’s.

The rust peeling off the outside of the frame is a little thicker than onion skin - no big deal.

However, the rust flakes that are inside the frame are the thickness of poker chips. That’s bad.
 
Granted, this may be influenced by me living as far south as you can go, but I would not feel comfortable driving on the frame. One of the other replies had a good place to buy new frames or get a used frame from south.

If you want me to look for some in my area PM me
 
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Look into NHOU. New Hampshire Oil Undercoating. It’s a blessing for those of us in the northeast. Had a YJ done last year by a pro, $185. Yup, $185.
 
Look into NHOU. New Hampshire Oil Undercoating. It’s a blessing for those of us in the northeast. Had a YJ done last year by a pro, $185. Yup, $185.
That would work if you have zero rust and want to prevent it. If you already have rust, that won't help.
p.s. Fluid film, WD-40 and Pam cooking spray do the same thing for $5 a can.
 
That would work if you have zero rust and want to prevent it. If you already have rust, that won't help.
p.s. Fluid film, WD-40 and Pam cooking spray do the same thing for $5 a can.
I need to disagree only because of what I’ve read. I’m no scientist but something about adding oil to existing surface rust pulls the moisture away from the steel and hence “stops” the current rust. Same concept as the old farmer pouring used motor oil on seasonal equipment to make it last. Or even oil in an old steel motorcycle gas tank to keep from rusting when in storage. Check out their website, read. I don’t know much for sure so any science to change my mind is perfectly acceptable
 
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Based off of those pictures ( and my own experience with a rusted frame) you’re going to need safe-t-caps in at least one or two areas. That is good news though, they are far cheaper than a frame swap. These frames rot from the inside out, and as others have pointed out, I can see plenty of rust flakes in there from the degradation.
 
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I’m no scientist but something about adding oil to existing surface rust pulls the moisture away from the steel and hence “stops” the current rust.

I think you're right from all I've read on the subject. Rust requires iron, oxygen & water to form and grow. An untreated frame that is exposed to these things will eventually rust, add salt and the process is expedited dramatically. Desert southwest, this process may take forever. Super saturated salty northeast, takes no time. Oil does two things, first it displaces the water that's in contact with the iron, and two it creates a barrier preventing water from contacting the surface on an ongoing basis, provided you keep the surface oiled. Deprive iron of the ingredients it needs and you stop the process of oxidation, or at least slow it down to a crawl. Keeping the oil coating every bit of surface area may be the trick. This is one thing I like about Fluid Film, that foulness has a way of creeping and sticking to everything and staying put for quite a long time.
 
Hey all I have been pricing a frame swap and my options. So i could safe t cap for now while i save but a new throttle down customs frame is around 5,800 without installation and labor. another path could be buying a southern jeep and ship it up here but it would have to be in the 2,500-3,500 with shipping prices. what would you guys figure for labor or should this be soemthing i attempt myself? thank you
 
Hey all I have been pricing a frame swap and my options. So i could safe t cap for now while i save but a new throttle down customs frame is around 5,800 without installation and labor. another path could be buying a southern jeep and ship it up here but it would have to be in the 2,500-3,500 with shipping prices. what would you guys figure for labor or should this be soemthing i attempt myself? thank you
Why do you feel you need safety caps or a new frame? Has anything new come to light with the frame situation?
 
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You've already gotten a lot of opinions, but I have to say that it looks like you'll need a lot of clean-up at the very least, and maybe even some safe-t-caps. But if you're lucky, you may find as you clean it up that it's all mostly surface-level, and is evenly distributed across wide areas (not too deep or too bad in any one spot, making it weak).

There are lots of threads on this forum to guide you, because this is not an unusual problem. Search around a bit.

For inside the frame, consider drilling drain holes in the frame, and then investing in a sewer jetter that you can attach to a pressure washer. Once you've cleaned it out, a $40 scope on Amazon can give you a peek at what the inside really looks like.

Don't forget that the transmission skid is a notorious spot for hidden rust, perhaps second to the inside of the frame.
 
Like you said the outside doesn't matter, take a needlescaler to it. A wire brush will take too long to remove the weakened layers of metal. It's the inside that counts. You need to get an endoscope and look inside. Have hope, you're not the only person dealing with rusty frames. You won't find out if it's solid or not by posting pictures of the outside of the frame.
Oh WHY have I not discovered this tool until now?! I wish I could tell you how much time I've spent arm-wrestling my cordless drill as it powers a wire cup on the frame. Like playing ouija with an American Gladiator. Then of course changing the wire cup size time and again to access some little nook or cranny.

Do you recommend any particular brand for this? I don't have an air compressor, so would prefer electric if that's a thing. Will start Googling.
 
Oh WHY have I not discovered this tool until now?! I wish I could tell you how much time I've spent arm-wrestling my cordless drill as it powers a wire cup on the frame. Like playing ouija with an American Gladiator. Then of course changing the wire cup size time and again to access some little nook or cranny.

Do you recommend any particular brand for this? I don't have an air compressor, so would prefer electric if that's a thing. Will start Googling.
I'm actually using a cheap air powered harbor freight needlescaler but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a good air compressor. I went from using the one at our workplace that was huge, not sure the size but it was about 8 feet tall and didn't lose power. Now I'm in my garage using a tiny 4 hp 25 gallon craftsman from 1994. It still manages to remove 90% of the rust, but getting the last few thick metal layers off can be a problem only because of the weak compressor. It works great for the first few minutes then needs to fill up air again.

Wire brushes are a pain plus they stab you, an electric angle grinder or pneumatic work great for rounded surfaces but on flat surfaces getting the last layers of weak metal, the bumpy spots, is difficult.

I'm actually looking at electric needlescalers right now so can't say for sure what brand, they are not cheap but are worth it if you don't have room for sandblasting. I need to remove rust from dump trucks after this so I want something heavy duty but it still needs to be small. I'm looking at a Swansoft on Amazon.

i was mainly just going off of what everyone was saying as a worst comes to worst

I would say no one can say anything for sure until you start removing rust, you don't have to do it everywhere. Just use a needlescaler they're like 30 bucks at harbor freight apply pressure to the worst spots and you will find out the answer. I just went through the whole back end of my jeep the needlescaler can't damage clean metal, I even used it on the floorboards and parts of the body like the wheel well.

Also get that endoscope!
 
I'm actually looking at electric needlescalers right now so can't say for sure what brand, they are not cheap but are worth it if you don't have room for sandblasting. I need to remove rust from dump trucks after this so I want something heavy duty but it still needs to be small. I'm looking at a Swansoft on Amazon.

Ah, bummer, these are pricey. I'll keep Googling. Like you, I don't have a large air compressor either.
 
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Hey all I have been pricing a frame swap and my options. So i could safe t cap for now while i save but a new throttle down customs frame is around 5,800 without installation and labor. another path could be buying a southern jeep and ship it up here but it would have to be in the 2,500-3,500 with shipping prices. what would you guys figure for labor or should this be soemthing i attempt myself? thank you
If you’re on a budget, Safe-T-Cap is going to be your best option. From the looks of it, your frame is a solid (no pun intended) candidate.
 
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