Frame Repair

mjonesjr84

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Jan 7, 2024
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Salem, IN
I've got a spot staring to come through above the rear control arm on my frame. I've got a plate ordered to repair that section.

When doing the repair, do you all cut the rust out and then weld in the plate or just leave it and weld the plate in?
 
The best way is to cut about 3/4 the way up the frame on the inside and outside to remove the affected rusty area, spray rust encapsulator on the inside of the frame rail and then weld the cap in place.
Never weld a patch over a rusty area; it breads more rust.
Watch this video for more information.

 
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I've got a spot staring to come through above the rear control arm on my frame. I've got a plate ordered to repair that section.

When doing the repair, do you all cut the rust out and then weld in the plate or just leave it and weld the plate in?

Most shops will cut like 2/3 of the frame out from the bottom and then weld the cap on top of that. Leaving the rot in there is gonna bring you back to square one.
 
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Most shops will cut like 2/3 of the frame out from the bottom and then weld the cap on top of that. Leaving the rot in there is gonna bring you back to square one.

What I got is a plate for the side. Mine is just a small spot in the middle of the side wall. I plan on cutting it out, cleaning and painting the inside with rust encapsulater, and then welding the plate on. Then going back with the Eastwood encapsulater that has the tubing on it for the inside of the plate.
 
IF you found a hole in the frame rail; be rest assured there is more rust that you don’t see.
You cannot spray over flakey rust; it needs to be removed.
Do a thorough inspection otherwise you will be welding over rust that is inside the frame rail.
PLEASE watch that video I posted; this tech has the experience and knows what he talks about.
 
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What I got is a plate for the side. Mine is just a small spot in the middle of the side wall. I plan on cutting it out, cleaning and painting the inside with rust encapsulater, and then welding the plate on. Then going back with the Eastwood encapsulater that has the tubing on it for the inside of the plate.

You're positive the bottom of the frame rail is solid? Usually mud, water, and salt all collect on the bottom. That usually rots bad too.

Not uncommon around here to see TJ's with the bottom 2/3 of the frame to be completely capped for that exact reason.
 
What I got is a plate for the side. Mine is just a small spot in the middle of the side wall. I plan on cutting it out, cleaning and painting the inside with rust encapsulater, and then welding the plate on. Then going back with the Eastwood encapsulater that has the tubing on it for the inside of the plate.

If you have rust coming through the side, you’ve quite possibly got bigger problems you don’t see… yet. You should scope the frame to see how bad it is…. Have you at least fingered all the holes to see what’s really going on?
 
You're positive the bottom of the frame rail is solid? Usually mud, water, and salt all collect on the bottom. That usually rots bad too.

Not uncommon around here to see TJ's with the bottom 2/3 of the frame to be completely capped for that exact reason.
The bottom of the frame is solid. I've beat on it with a hammer and punch without anything. The side repair is honestly a temporary repair until I can get a new frame ordered later this summer.
 
The bottom of the frame is solid. I've beat on it with a hammer and punch without anything. The side repair is honestly a temporary repair until I can get a new frame ordered later this summer.

That is very, very interesting. I wouldn't count on the bottom being solid for very long.
 
The bottom of the frame is solid. I've beat on it with a hammer and punch without anything. The side repair is honestly a temporary repair until I can get a new frame ordered later this summer.

Don’t beat it or put a probe in it… you gotta finger those holes. Or stick a scope in there to really see…
 
The bottom of the frame is solid. I've beat on it with a hammer and punch without anything. The side repair is honestly a temporary repair until I can get a new frame ordered later this summer.

If the sides are rotten; the other rust has not made itself apparent yet….
Guaranteed there is more you haven’t found.
Why replace the entire frame when you can cut out the affected areas and cap them ?
 
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If the sides are rotten; the other rust has not made itself apparent yet….
Guaranteed there is more you haven’t found.
Why replace the entire frame when you can cut out the affected areas and cap them ?

The labor cost for me to pay someone to cut it out and cap it along with the parts would probably be around the same cost as a replacement frame. I can paint and swap frames, but don't feel comfortable cutting and capping a frame. Cutting out the side and welding a plate in, I feel comfortable doing.
 
The labor cost for me to pay someone to cut it out and cap it along with the parts would probably be around the same cost as a replacement frame. I can paint and swap frames, but don't feel comfortable cutting and capping a frame. Cutting out the side and welding a plate in, I feel comfortable doing.

There's a really good fabricator on YouTube that does TJ frames. Give them a look. I think you think it's worse than it seems.
 
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MorFab is the guy you are probably referencing and that is the video I posted above.

That would be the guy. "MorFab Industries"

I hope I never have to do a frame repair job, but if I do, the last thing I'm doing is cutting half of the rot off, and then having to weld to rot or steel that's paper thin. It's likely *just* thick enough to not get hit through with a hammer, but if (@mjonesjr84) you have a hole around the control arm mount weld, its already done. You need to do it all, or don't. I just honestly can't believe the bottom of your frame is more rigid than the side. I'm no TJ frame guru and I haven't touched your rig, but it just doesn't sound right and I don't want you to get all caught up in it. I think once you start cutting, you're gonna find a lot more than just a tic-tac sized area (which tends to be the case). Safe-T-Cap and Pocono are your best friends.

When you do your swap, or do your caps, drain holes. Mine are 1/2" but soon I'm stepping up to 5/8". 4 inches away from each control arm mount (all four on the skid side) is what I did.
 
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