I have a 98 Tj that needs some welding on the frame. I’m planning on doing it myself. If anyone has any pointers I’d be greatly appreciative. Here’s the rust spot on my frame
Frame rot
- Thread starter Jbelcher
- Start date
I don't know if welding is gonna fix that level of rust...
There's quite a few manufacturers to choose from and I believe there's a few different threads on the form that dive into this subject.
But you're definitely going to need/want to use frame repair pieces...
Here's one example of what's available.
https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/1...and-frame/frames-and-accessories/frame-repair
But you're definitely going to need/want to use frame repair pieces...
Here's one example of what's available.
https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/1...and-frame/frames-and-accessories/frame-repair
Welcome,
Being a former NJ rusty frame owner I can tell there's a lot more going on than you can see and will most likely find extensive internal damage.
Take the time to search this forum for frame rust to familiarize yourself with the process. An inexpensive android borescope from Amazon can really tell you what's going on inside. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GL4465F/?tag=wranglerorg-20
There is a lot of good info here https://www.autorust.com/ There are patch panels available from several sources but they are an industry leader.
This is my 99' NJ frame
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I personally have the ebay version of the safe T caps. Seems to work pretty well. Just had the passenger side done today. The driver side was done a year ago.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2947238726...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2947238726...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
This site contains affiliate links for which Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum may be compensated.
I had a full frame repair job (front and rear trail arms plus center) done recently. I used a combination of Safe-T-Cap and Pocono repair pieces. You'll save a ton of money if you can do the cutting and welding yourself.
With the crack in the frame and the chunks of rust observed in the factory hold
down holes in that last picture; I wouldn't drive that Jeep until you repair the frame.
I agree with the use of a bore scope to find out how extensive the rust is and where it is.
down holes in that last picture; I wouldn't drive that Jeep until you repair the frame.
I agree with the use of a bore scope to find out how extensive the rust is and where it is.
Thank you all for your links and input in this matter. After I get done with the repair I will post an update and pictures
You can use a scope if you want but that frame needs to get gone or get fixed. I would read up on Safty Caps and go ahead and cut that section out, clean it up weld in the sections needed. Remember cut and repair one section at a time. I'm going one safety caps over two yrs no issues. If done right it is hard to find any issues with this type of repair. Good Luck.
Curious why one section at a time? Even if you know the entire length of the frame is bad? The shop that did mine (and most videos I've watched) cut the entire length before welding any new sections. They did say that it is better to use three separate sections vs. the one full length piece offered by Safe-T-Cap. The shop I used is on Safe-T-Cap's list of recommended installers.
Your right. I meant one side at a time not one section at a time. Safety Cap recommended that to me. They said it had to do with the weight of the vehicle being supported by the cut frame.
While the frame is opened up be sure to remove ALL loose rust in adjacent frame sections and protect them from future rust. Eastwood is one of a few manufacturers with a great range of products made for that purpose. And then be sure to coat the interiors of the new frame sections, especially the welded areas. No sense going through all that cost and effort and not doing it right.
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Curious what folks who have done this have used to coat the interior of the repaired frame. The shop that did mine used 3M Rubberized Undercoating. Since they are a recommended Safe T Cap installer, I checked with Safe T Cap and they told me the 3M product is one that they recommend. Didn't seem like the best choice, but I didn't know what they were using until after the fact. As additional protection, I have applied a generous coating of Surface Shield (similar to Fluid Film). If I could do it over again, I would have asked the shop to use Steel-It inside the frame. But, what's done is done.
IMO the problem with any rubberized product over rust is all it does is cover the cancer. Eventually air and water will get underneath the rubber stuff, which is trying to stick to rust (often lose and scaly) in the first place, and the rust will spread. 3M makes a lot of rust protection products including cavity wax and various high quality coatings. Im surprised they recommended what is essentially undercoating.
I thought so too, but since the rust had been cut away (and I have no reason to doubt that they did a thorough job), it was applied over the clean part of the existing frame and the new steel of the repair pieces.
I guess as long as the adjacent frame section is pristine (how is that possible?) it may be a good solution. I still wouldn't spray that stuff in there. Too many other really well engineered coatings to do the job.
I don't like rubberized coating since they can hold rust underneath but that's just my thought. You could fluid film every yr or two and it will probably out last longer than ownership. I just hit mine with rust oleum spray primer then fluid film every couple yrs. If Saftey Cap
https://www.eastwood.com/internal-f...ickedid=629947576078&wickedsource=google&wv=4
I used this on my LJ frame and inside torque tubes (neither have been patched, but same idea). I also fluid film inside both. Also did the same with my Trans Am while it was on rotisserie.
I used this on my LJ frame and inside torque tubes (neither have been patched, but same idea). I also fluid film inside both. Also did the same with my Trans Am while it was on rotisserie.