Front axle upper control arm Johnny Joint bushing—Will it fit?

CovertRat

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Messages
74
Location
Tennessee
So I am in the process of purchasing parts for my build. I recently posted questions about control arms. Since then I have done more studying and thinking, just still cannot make my mind up. Then while I was ordering my Savvy body lift today I noticed on their site that they have what seems to be a JJ insert for replacing both front upper bushings.

https://savvyoffroad.com/product/ce-9112m/
Am I reading that correct. Will this fit in place of the factory bushing. If so, then my mind is made up. That way I have all JJ on all ends of each control arm. Just to make sure everyone understands, I do not wish to use other types for my own reasons. It’s either all JJ each end or all JJ one end and “clevite” on the other.
 
Well shoot, I just went back to my link and it does say that the joint I referenced goes in the kit you linked. The one thing I don’t do enough to be confident is welding, especially in such a critical spot. Back to the drawing board. Then again, the way it reads makes it seem like it would work like I want it to.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blondie70
Ok so I did some reading on amazon and it looks as though this will replace the drivers side but the plate does have to be welded in place on the passenger side.
 
TBH I haven't figured out why Currie (and Metalcloak who offers a somewhat similar product) replace the stock bracket with that weld-on part. The JJ will fit (it's the same bushing that goes into the one cast into the pumpkin). It must be that the stock bracket is just too flimsy when paired with a strong tubular control arm and a JJ that doesn't deform the same way as the stock rubber.

I built an HP30 CAD axle, which has the upper bracket cast into the CAD housing, so I just got two of the JJ's from that kit and they both went in just fine.

20190826_003201.jpg


Sharp eyes may notice that my Zone bump stop extensions are installed upside down in this photo. :unsure:
 
  • Like
Reactions: NskLJ and fixmysix
Replacing the tube side tower with a larger welded tower has everything to do with strengthening that part. The assumption is that if you are replacing everything with a JJ (or other high misalignment end) that you are both exceeding the movement is the stock bushing and potentially going to be using the Jeep in a manner that might collapse that tower.
 
  • Like
Reactions: freedom_in_4low
I was thinking that it would, but wanted to know if someone had done it or knew that it would fit. If that is the case and the reason for the welded part is for added strength, then I may be good doing just the bushing considering my use. Like I said, not so confident doing the cut and weld, but I have no problem bolstering the current tower if needed. This is what I have been looking for. Way overkill for me, but it has driven me nuts every time I think about getting JJ arms. I just couldn’t see getting them and having rubber bushings at two contact points.
 
TBH I haven't figured out why Currie (and Metalcloak who offers a somewhat similar product) replace the stock bracket with that weld-on part. The JJ will fit (it's the same bushing that goes into the one cast into the pumpkin). It must be that the stock bracket is just too flimsy when paired with a strong tubular control arm and a JJ that doesn't deform the same way as the stock rubber.

I built an HP30 CAD axle, which has the upper bracket cast into the CAD housing, so I just got two of the JJ's from that kit and they both went in just fine.

View attachment 137148

Sharp eyes may notice that my Zone bump stop extensions are installed upside down in this photo. :unsure:
let us know how that one on the passenger holds up. I am curious as this is what I was thinking of doing
 
let us know how that one on the passenger holds up. I am curious as this is what I was thinking of doing

I will if there's a problem but I don't expect there to be since it's a big cast arm off the CAD housing. It's nothing like the welded sheetmetal bracket used on the non-CAD Dana 30.
 
I was thinking that it would, but wanted to know if someone had done it or knew that it would fit. If that is the case and the reason for the welded part is for added strength, then I may be good doing just the bushing considering my use. Like I said, not so confident doing the cut and weld, but I have no problem bolstering the current tower if needed. This is what I have been looking for. Way overkill for me, but it has driven me nuts every time I think about getting JJ arms. I just couldn’t see getting them and having rubber bushings at two contact points.
I don't use the big welded on part. Lacks a certain elegance that appeals to my sensibilities. Instead, I do it this way.
DSC_2898.jpg

1580236888130.png


1580236931175.png

1580236961940.png

1580236992359.png
 
I used that kit when I bent my passenger side bracket. The driver side that the original post had just presses into the driver side after pulling the stock bushing out.

If you can weld, welding the passenger side is pretty easy. You do not cut the hole bracket off and then try and line up the replacement and weld it in place. Borrowing mrblaine's picture. You cut the top of it off (along the red line), and then that solid bar sits in the middle of the old bracket, making it self-positioning. You then run a weld bead (along the yellow line). I sold that Jeep otherwise I'd take a pic.

[EDIT: Warning. @mrblaine experience with non-bent brackets is that the bar won't slide in. So my self-positioning comment may not be correct, which to me makes the kit less appealing if you just have a bad bushing.]
bracket.png



I do admit though, mrblaines solution is pretty slick.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Blondie70