Front track bar hitting diff cover

williambmac

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Yesterday I installed a nice set of Dana 44 diff covers that I picked up really cheap. Trial fit looked good, so on they went.
Today I was driving down the road and I start hearing a bang every time I hit a bump.
Immediately I knew what it was. I got home and took a look , and found marks on the rear of the track bar.
Now my suspension is set perfect for my 4”lift, the arms are adjusted so I have correct wheel base and 5.5 degrees of caster. I really don’t want to mess with anything.
Anyone else experience this?
I was looking at maybe replacing my Clayton track bar with one that has more of a bend to clear the cover. Unfortunately no one else appears to make a track bar that uses a 9/16” bolt on the axle side.
Any suggestions?
 
The Metalcloak uses 9/16” bolt at axle and 5/8” bolt at frame side. JKS uses 5/8” frame 1/2” axle. I think Currie is 5/8” frame and 1/2” axle.
 
Get a Barnett/T&J diff cover (might be hard to get new) or something that looks like below that covers the bottom half. Likely cheaper fix than a currie trackbar if your setup is good otherwise. But the Currie trackbar is pretty good if you don't mind the cost.

d44warn.jpeg
 
Were you having issues with the factory diff cover? Was was the reason for the aftermarket cover?

Best to pull tires, wheels, and springs and do a bump check to make sure there are no interferences and then adjust final bump from there.

IIRC, Ballistic Fab makes the shallowest aftermarket cover.
 
Yesterday I installed a nice set of Dana 44 diff covers that I picked up really cheap. Trial fit looked good, so on they went.
Today I was driving down the road and I start hearing a bang every time I hit a bump.
Immediately I knew what it was. I got home and took a look , and found marks on the rear of the track bar.
Now my suspension is set perfect for my 4”lift, the arms are adjusted so I have correct wheel base and 5.5 degrees of caster. I really don’t want to mess with anything.
Anyone else experience this?
I was looking at maybe replacing my Clayton track bar with one that has more of a bend to clear the cover. Unfortunately no one else appears to make a track bar that uses a 9/16” bolt on the axle side.
Any suggestions?

Iffen I was doing it, I'd take a few minutes and reshape the trackbar bend and run it.
 
No need, the 1/2" bolt will be just fine in the size hole. Or did we forget how bolts work already?
Doesn't it have something to do with clamping force, or something like that? JK. I know what you mean it's just my OCD telling me that I need the correct sized bolt in the hole.
 
Question about that... so, lets say you have a custom setup that utilizes a 3/4" bolt for the track bar. According to various online sources, that bolt should be torqued to 282 ft-lbs.
I'm concerned about damaging or crushing the 3/4 joint the bolt will be clamping. So torque to whats appropriate for a trackbar... say 130ish, or does the 3/4" bolt actually need that torque to remain tight?
 
Question about that... so, lets say you have a custom setup that utilizes a 3/4" bolt for the track bar. According to various online sources, that bolt should be torqued to 282 ft-lbs.
I'm concerned about damaging or crushing the 3/4 joint the bolt will be clamping. So torque to whats appropriate for a trackbar... say 130ish, or does the 3/4" bolt actually need that torque to remain tight?

What joint doesn't have a bolt sleeve that can handle that?
 
Within reason, hole size is irrelevant.

Why Do the aftermarket companies increase the bolt size? To allow and repair wallowed out bracket, or because that is they bushing they sourced or is it just marketing ( bigger is better). At some point I would think with too much damage to the bracket you would loose clamping area between the bracket and sleeve.
 
Question about that... so, lets say you have a custom setup that utilizes a 3/4" bolt for the track bar. According to various online sources, that bolt should be torqued to 282 ft-lbs.
I'm concerned about damaging or crushing the 3/4 joint the bolt will be clamping. So torque to whats appropriate for a trackbar... say 130ish, or does the 3/4" bolt actually need that torque to remain tight?

282 would be the max the bolt can handle. The track bar would only need the torque it takes to hold it in place, no matter the bolt and/or hole size (or shape).

Although, the same amount of torque on a larger bolt wouldn't end up with the same amount of stretch or tension.
Good question. :unsure:
 
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