I need to replace two studs in the front of my TJ. I have searched and googled but only see JK and rear axle stud replacement. Do I need to remove front wheel hub to replace the wheel studs? What a PIA.
Front wheel stud replacement question
- Thread starter Jamesval035
- Start date
GeorgeSully
TJ Enthusiast
I actually did this recently just stick a nut on the stud and hit it hard with a 4 pound hammer then just rotate the hub to a location you can slide the new stud in and use a couple washers and a lug nut you can throw away to tighten down on the stud with a wrench or impact gun to pull the stud into place.
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OP
GeorgeSully
TJ Enthusiast
I just rotated it around and for mine seemed to be upper right corner
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You've got to remove the unit bearing. I'd personally just replace it with a new unit bearing if you don't know the last time they were changed. The new ones come with new studs.
OP
the upper right seems to be correct spot but there is no way to get it past unless I grind down the brake dust protector(if thats what its called). Wish I had an impact gun to remove the axle nut... I don't think that thing is budging without one. going to spray it with PB and see if that helps any. I don't know the last time they were changed and thought about doing that. Any suggestions on brands? I saw that you recommended timken in the past but the reviews don't look so hot now a days. Thanks again fellas
Only 3 bolts to the unit bearing. It would also be much easier with it in hand to press the new one back in.
Reviving this old thread because I need to replace a front wheel stud. This comment says there are only 3 bolts to the unit bearing. Doesn't the 36mm axle nut also need to be removed?
Yes to remove it from the shaft, you can also pull the unit bearing out with the shaft attached. Just be careful putting the shaft back in and do not force it in.
Mine was broken. If yours is has messed up threads, cut the end off and it will be short enough to get out. That shield is soft metal. Find a spot it almost goes in and "modify" the shield accordingly to get it to slide in.
Tighten it down with a lugnut to pull it in. Mount the tire.
Tighten it down with a lugnut to pull it in. Mount the tire.
Yep...threads are gone. I'll try your "modify" approach. I also had a thought.....could an access hole be drilled in the dust shield from the rear directly opposite the stud (asking without having looked at the shield to see if it is possible)?
Well, I got lucky in a sense. The dust shield had conveniently disintegrated on one side, creating a perfect notch to pass the old stud through and get the new. one in. Now I need to read up on the technique for pulling the new stud through with washers and lug nut. Thanks for all the replies.
The best technique is the lisle stud installer tool. An acceptable alternative is a few fender washers and anti seize between them. Acts like a bearing so that the nut rotates smoothly for an easy pull rather than burning up the threads of the new stud.
Hmmm.....you gave me an idea. I have a nutsert installer tool from Black Magic Brakes. The bearing piece fits perfectly over the wheel stud, but it doesn't have the conical depression like the Lilse tool. To make this work, could I put the bearing over the stud (bearing side against the hub) then a washer and then a 1/2 - 20 hex nut? Here's the Black Magic Tool.
Hmmm.....you gave me an idea. I have a nutsert installer tool from Black Magic Brakes. The bearing piece fits perfectly over the wheel stud, but it doesn't have the conical depression like the Lilse tool. To make this work, could I put the bearing over the stud (bearing side against the hub) then a washer and then a 1/2 - 20 hex nut? Here's the Black Magic Tool.
Blaine uses that tool for 1/2-20 skid plate bolts, so I would think that would work well. Basically the same idea as the Lisle tool, but without the centering effect of the conical base lug nut.
You will still need washers however, because the taper of the wheel stud base will poke through the unit bearing flange. You need some large washers to keep the bearing tool off of the unit bearing so the lug stud base can pop through and have room to move into.
You did say washer, but I would say multiple washers would be better. Two fender washers ought to do it.
Got it...I think. Two washers (with anti-seize on all sides?), bearing, washer that comes with tool (anti-seize again?), then 1/2-20 hex nut. Any lube on the stud where it presses into the hole? Ratchet or impact? Thanks for the guidance.
With the bearing tool, shouldn't need anti seize. That was the purpose of the anti seize when not using the tool. No lube on the stud or hole. I use a ratchet, as I feel I could overtighten too easily with an impact and damage the new threads. I have a strong impact that will go over 100 ft lbs in no time, so for me it's just better to go nice and steady with the ratchet.