Functionalsolenoid's money pit thread

tjforever

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Joined
Oct 17, 2020
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31
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USA
Bought this Sahara about 6 months ago and figured I'd share what it's up to.

1997 Wrangler Sahara. 139k. No leaks mechanically, but plenty of issues with the interior. Purchased from a dealer who bought it at auction. 1 actual owner before me.

I sold my Transit van that I converted and spent weekends in while I flew around the country for work for a year and a half. I did a power line trail near Sedona with three JK Wrangler couples that really sold me on the idea of a Jeep. After driving a big van — I knew the TJ would be the right Jeep for me. Never again will I fear turning around on the side of a mountain. :)

I set aside $20,000 to get the rig and do repairs / upgrades. Given PNW pricing, this of course meant that I'm foregoing lockers and axle shaft upgrades. I also decided that given the age of the rig and the fact that I was perfectly happy with what I got in my van with 2.5" lift, I'd pass on any significant lift for now. I will have solar, a "house" battery that I'll build with LFP cells, small refrigerator, and some other things that I really enjoyed having while camping in my van.


THE GOOD: 5 brand new Cooper AT3 tires. No leaks. CarFax shows routine maintenance at dealer and single owner prior to auction/dealer purchase. No apparent leaks after sitting for extended period on concrete showroom. Completely unmolested other than the rear bumper. Minimal rust on frame in common areas pointed out on various youtube channels.
THE BAD: Moderate rust in passenger floor pan. Interior is mildewed — clearly water leaks. Misfire code in memory. Shocks are shot. Shitty steering wheel, bad clockspring. Failed clearcoat on fender flares, hood, cowl, and fenders (though I like this weathered look so it's not that big of an issue to me). Dents in driver door and windshield frame.

The awesome:
I reached out to several shops listed on the CarFax to get a more complete idea of what maintenance has been done. Surprisingly, two of them responded with information. The rig has only been driven 5,000 miles since 2015.

Maintenance performed in the 15,000 miles prior to my purchase:
Gear oil changed all around
5 new 31" Cooper AT3 tires
Brake Fluid Flushed
Battery replaced
Fuel Pump Replaced
New Clutch, Flywheel, and Transmission rebuild
Starter Replaced
New Catalytic Converter
Radiator & hoses replaced, coolant flushed.
Belts replaced


I've made some progress - but for now, here's dealer photos of its original state. I assure you that it looks worse in person.

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Drove it home and started stripping the interior and replacing parts. Photo dump below.

- Sold the bench seat, rear seat belts, and associated brackets. One bolt sheared off but the others came out no problem.
- Gave away the rusty "trunk" divider.
- Removed and trashed the original carpet, it was way too funky.
- Replaced turn signal stalk, clockspring, and steering wheel
- Hit the pax side tub with a grinder brush. Was able to get down to bare metal. I did a layer of reformer as I had it on hand (though it's really intended to just go on the rust.. I couldn't), followed by a layer of mopar aerosol.. which matches the outside moss green of my tub great, but the inside floor is all much lighter. Oh well. Did the same on the driver's side - it wasn't rusty, but the paint was worn through.
- Installed BedRug kit
- Replaced engine air filter, spark plugs, dist cap/rotor, plug wires. This took care of the rough idle and misfire CEL.
- Ran through a can of seafoam and ran a can of TB cleaner through intake
- Repainted parts of dash and center console with SEM camel paint. Excellent match.
- Installed double-DIN stereo w/ carplay and replaced all speakers with budget options.
- Installed cheap entry guard things to cover some paint wear. The last pic shows the interior after most of the work was done - you can tell that I pressure washed the pax seat and not the driver's. :)

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Alright. About that leak. The majority of it was coming from the door seal itself.

- Replaced steering damper (the only thing that leaks on this other than the doors)
- Replaced door seal on driver and passenger doors.
- Replaced seal on bottom of liftgate glass.
- Replaced liftgate glass shocks.
- Put in MAXLINER floor liners. These are better than the Weathertechs (which I ordered and returned btw). Fit is great. I had this brand in my camper van previously and it held up great.
- Installed the ZEN kit from Custombatterycables.com
- I can't say this kit wowed me. It was complete and nicely executed, but for the price.. the cables are longer than needed, I had to solder in a lead that apparently was only on the 97's starter, and had to break off a plastic shroud meant to shield the terminal on the alternator. Would definitely DIY the cables in the future, you can buy all the crimpers and cables you need for cheaper and get a more precision length.. which is what I thought I was paying for.
- Replaced passenger headlight bucket/bracket.
- Replaced passenger side mirror glass and added small convex mirrors.
- I put in tailgate bracket bars to cover the 4 existing holes where they'd clearly been removed before. They fit will with the liftgate glass.
- Installed some bulletpoint/tackform ball mounts and arms on the center dash and a RAM mount on the grab bar.
- Installed a President McKinley CB
- Installed aftermarket switch panel with existing fender hole
- Cleaned out and sealed around common leak areas @ cowling
- Removed door panels and cleaned latch mechanisms, adjusted linkages, replaced interior door handles
- Drilled out broken door footman loop bolt and replaced (amazingly was able to use original threads)
- Added washers to steering stops to prevent lower control arm rubbing tires
- Replaced both of the crankcase ventilation elbows, grommets, and hoses.
- Replaced license plate bracket (with stock, really don't like the wrap-around style)
- Installed H&R 1" springs and Rancho shocks


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....the fun continues! I have switched my focus to building a rear storage platform for now. Inbound, I've got a Gobi rack (going into week 20 since ordering), ARB compressor, and a Bulldawg Discovery hardtop.

Originally, I'd intended to install e-lockers, a super-35 kit, and regear with the intention of running 33" tires. Outside of my ability or working space, so I'd be paying a hefty fortune to get it done. After some reflection and given the way I will use this, I don't think I will install them until I find it frustrating not to have them. My RWD Transit van did OK in Sedona/AZ with just a rear locker - and I've got better angles and clearance already with the TJ. Though, not as much more as you'd think.

I did a deep dive searching for rust before I committed to the hardtop and Gobi rack. I'm confident that the investment will serve me well and that with proper maintenance and attention to the small amount of rust I have, this rig will run for years to come.

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Installed an ARB CKMA12 compressor on the ABS tray today. Bigger pain in the ass than you'd expect, included mounting hardware sucked and the nuts stripped. Working on my harness, but tested it out OK.

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Welcome to the forum, and man, have you been busy!

I love the green of the Sahara model!

I’m impressed with what you’ve accomplished, and it looks great so far.

Seems like you’ve given this build a lot of thought, and done your homework for it too!

Congratulations on your sweet looking Jeep! 😸
 
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Appreciate the feedback! Have been busy, but managed to get some work done and go on a few camping trips since my last post.

I waited 6 months for my Gobi rack with no updates before finally getting in touch with the owner on Instagram and being allowed to cancel without the $500 fee. Another 2 months and 3 emails to get an RMA for the awning brackets they charged me for and shipped out a while back. While I prefer the one-piece design of the Gobi rack, the Garvin looks cleaner being rear-mounted and the squared everything makes mounting stuff very simple without the need for specialized brackets. That said, the Garvin should be cheaper for what it is and how it assembles (the crossbars all attach with bolts and washers to pre-installed rivnuts, for example). It didn't feel like I was putting together a $1300+ product considering that you can't really put much weight on the bars anywhere other than the front and rear where there are cross supports. That said, it took less than 4 weeks to ship and ended up working out great for my needs so far.

- Converted to synthetic oil (M1 10w30). Took the gamble knowing it was a bit late since I have no idea what it was running previously. No leaks before and no leaks now ~1000 miles later.
- Replaced A-Pillar & windshield header weatherstrips
- Installed BullDawg Discovery hardtop (with flip up side windows)
- Installed small powered subwoofer under driver seat. Same model I used in my old camper van, I dig it for $100.
- Replaced turn signal lenses (they didn't match before)
- Replaced hood latches/keepers (the originals allowed too much upward movement at freeway speeds)
- Installed Garvin Expedition Rack with 50" light bar mount
- Installed knockoff Baja 50" light bar (took considerable modifications to the Garvin mounts)
- Installed 100w solar panel on tilting brackets (not yet wired, electrical in progress), Ironman4x4 awning, and 3 gal RotoPax
- Built and installed the base for my rear storage configuration, includes 2 fridge sliders from Ironman4x4.

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Progress has been slow-going, thanks to other projects.

- Installed new Corbeau seats. My first set arrived with rips. The seat brackets are, quite frankly, a rip-off for what they are and the annoying method of install. If I were any taller, I'd forego them somehow. Keeping the passenger tumble feature was nice, but it doesn't operate smoothly. Huge improvement over stock vs the well-worn Sahara seats, though I do miss the green fabric.
- Installed new exhaust manifold, old one (aftermarket) had developed a significant crack.
- Replaced motor mounts & transfer case mount.
- Replaced throttle position sensor (broke old one during previous repair).
- Installed Garvin ATS front bumper with Rough Country raised winch platform. For anyone reading this, a flat winch mount will simply not work with the ATS bumper. Very stout bumper. Like the rest of the Garvin products, the slightly nicks develop rust quickly. I've found that rust reformer blends very well with or without sanding the area.
- Installed American Racing wheels with Discoverer AT3 tires. Awaiting lift and wider fender flares.

Coming up: Ironman 4x4 Lift Kit, Half Doors, BullDawg upper half doors, wide fenders, ARB lockers, Super-35 kit, 4.88 gears.

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Welcome to the forum and nice looking rig. Great work on it so far. If you are only planning on 33" tires you don't REALLY need the Super 35 kit. Depending on what you want for a traction aid device (TAD) you could get a pair of 1541 shafts and be good. Not trying to talk you out of the Super 35 kit but it's not need if you don't plan on going with a larger tire. What ratio are you planning on going to? Where in WA are you? Do you have shop picked out to do the swap for you?
 
Welcome to the forum and nice looking rig. Great work on it so far. If you are only planning on 33" tires you don't REALLY need the Super 35 kit. Depending on what you want for a traction aid device (TAD) you could get a pair of 1541 shafts and be good. Not trying to talk you out of the Super 35 kit but it's not need if you don't plan on going with a larger tire. What ratio are you planning on going to? Where in WA are you? Do you have shop picked out to do the swap for you?
Hey Wildman,
I think I'm just going to put in the Super 35 and not worry about it. I have a guy named Chris down in Oregon (Gresham?) who has done diff work for me in the past. Bones Custom 4x4 is the name of the shop. I think 33" is as large as I'll go as the cost seems to skyrocket after that and I just don't utilize it in a way that justifies the further upgrades. 4.88 is where I landed on gearing.
 
Here are some pictures of the exhaust manifold repair and other progress items.

- Completed the 100 AH lithium iron phosphate battery system. Features a 300 watt pure sine inverter, 30 amp DC-DC charger (connected to starter battery), and solar charging from the 100w panel on my Garvin rack (plus any folding/portable panels I plug in).
- Installed the new Ironman 4x4 1.5" lift kit with .75" spring spacers.

This photo is pre-lift with just the H&R springs:
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Here is a new engine mount versus the old (original?) mount.
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The exhaust manifold replacement is not a fun job at all.. but as you can see, it has been done before on this rig as it was running the same aftermarket manifold with bellows as I installed.
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Finally, here's the "house" electrical system.
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Hey Wildman,
I think I'm just going to put in the Super 35 and not worry about it. I have a guy named Chris down in Oregon (Gresham?) who has done diff work for me in the past. Bones Custom 4x4 is the name of the shop. I think 33" is as large as I'll go as the cost seems to skyrocket after that and I just don't utilize it in a way that justifies the further upgrades. 4.88 is where I landed on gearing.

Sound great. I've heard of the shop before but can't tell you how. But knowing the shop that you are taking it to is a good thing. And I think you'll be happy you went with the Super35 kit.

Great progress on the Jeep. Nice work.
 
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Sound great. I've heard of the shop before but can't tell you how. But knowing the shop that you are taking it to is a good thing. And I think you'll be happy you went with the Super35 kit.

Great progress on the Jeep. Nice work.
Chris Sines is a good dude and his shop is one of a couple in this area that I would trust.
 
Been a while! Still waiting on lockers and gears (since around Thanksgiving!!)…

Installed the Rough Country 2.5” over stock wide fender flares. They’re quite nice and modeled after stock- but their dimpled texture and “RC” branding I could do without. I rattle canned them for both the paint (from PaintScratch) and clear coat (Krylon).
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Finally put on the SwayLOC. The instructions suck, but eventually it just clicks mentally. Wow! What a beautiful improvement over factory ride on the road. Unlocked experience to come, but suffice to say the experience over bumps and uneven road is significantly more comfortable than my rusty factory bar.
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In the back, I installed Ironman4x4 tracks on top of the drawer box, and use them to hold down interlocking boxes I got @ Harbor Freight. Didn’t want to go with something loudly branded like the Packouts. Solid. I also built out a “kitchen box” that I’ll use for cooking and storage, and installed an Ironman compact lift on the Garvin swingout.
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This will probably be my last update on this thread as I've built this rig as far as I ever intended to.. I have a set of half doors and BullDawg Mfg uppers to install once I get them painted and trim installed, but other than that - it's right where I wanted it to be. Thanks for tagging along and all of the support, everyone.

- Regeared to 4.88
- Installed Garvin ATS fog brackets and budget fog lights.
- Reinstalled CB antenna on winch bracket.
- Installed Yukon Gear Zip Lockers in front and rear axles.
- Installed Yukon Gear Ultimate 35 chromoly axle shaft kit in the rear.
- Replaced clutch and front u-joints. Changed gear oil in front & rear diffs, TC, and trans.
- Replaced tensioner and idler pulleys, serp belt.
- After break-in, installed Spicer/Dana diff covers with LubeLocker gaskets. Stuck with 80w-90 Lucas traditional oil.
- Changed to 42-tooth speedometer gear.


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