Genrights ideology to suspension design

The4bangertj

just because you can does not mean you should
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I wanted a make a quick write up on how genrights suspension is set up and why they do it. I am not here to tell you what is better within its design parameters, but I will try and explain why most here do not use their ideology. As always please let me know if I have anything wrong or needs to be said differently. My goal with this is to educate anyone that has always been told by both sides that said kit is better, without fully understanding at least why they think their kit is better so the educated assessment can be made on building your own jeep. I will be using basic terms of link design in hopes who ever is looking this up knows the terms anti squat and such will understand.

Now to summarize it plainly genright mostly uses a 3/4 link (some single triangulated, some double. This is unrelated to the other aspects of the design and is decided by the user on intended purpose of the build). The axle side links are often raised so that the lowers are flush with the axle tubes. This is intended to help the goal of a flatter link such as too steep of a link can cause difficulty to climb obstacles, especially undercuts. Its goal is to also to have less stuff hang down from the axle to get stuck on rocks.
On the frame side the separation is less than a savvy mid arm which is around the ~100% anti squat giving it no raise or squat when throttle is applied making it very predictable and no hop on obstacles when traction is limited. Genrights uses less frame side separation to get around ~130% anti squat and this is intentional. This is intended to have enough anti squat in the rocks to push the tire down for traction but not too much to make the jeep hop when the traction is lost. This is also intended to raise the body up during full throttle in the desert to gain up travel over the standard travel of ride height. This is to sit lower in the rocks when its sitting at ride height. Now I must mention that this is also intended to be paired with a coil over where you can get the full travel of the shock and spring with a lower ride height.

A traditional coil and shock (even a 12in outboard) must be set up at almost exactly 50/50 to get the travel of the spring to offer pressure at any point of the shock travel. We want it to put pressure on the axle for traction and not have it fall out as once a spring is fully uncompressed and no pressure from frame to axle is present their is no benefit to the spring. This is where a "low center of gravity" jeep is near impossible to do properly with coil and shock as you loose the space and travel from the coil, You either loose up travel from trying to fit a longer uncompressed coil, both the amount of travel you have from ride height as well as how much bump stop is actually present thus making the center of gravity actually sit higher at bump than one set up at 50/50 spring and shock travel. While a stock jeeps travel is limited to shock, and outboard 12in shock is limited to coil travel. So the genright links makes no real point in a coil and shock/outboard setup jeep. Thus the implementation of the savvy mid arm is notably the best route for that build. The design of the savvy kit is another topic and I recommend doing more research on its design to understand where its benefits are (simplified the biggest points are the balance of link length and clearance in rocks, flat enough links to have no downside of too steep of a link, a parallel front 3 link to keep caster, and the perfect geometry to keep it very stable with the 100% anti squat and doesn't rely on coil overs for up travel) all of these show the design parameters are much better with a tj/lj on a coil and shock setup than the genright kits.

A coil over now allows the mounting point of the coil to be much longer to get more travel out of the coil much like the same principle of fitting a longer shock needs a longer mounting point. So the use of their links would also need the use of a coil over to really use the benefits the higher anti squat. It is apparent now to me to see Genright push the idea of buying everything from them as a working system since the whole idea with their links depends on the the coil over to make any use of it. This also explains why Genright runs their coil over at a lower lift height and depends on the anti squat to get more up travel with hopes of the jeep sitting lower in the rocks but is only possible with coilovers.

Hope that is helpful to some people to understand why and where it even begins to make sense to use such kits for such builds. Their are many talking points about the kit even when its in the parameters that the genright kit is set for that I will not get into since I have no experience or credibility for such topics. This was to show why genright is different than other kits. It is a well thought out kit unlike many others since it at least has reason to all the design parameters.

Weather or not your build even fills the required parameters to run the genright kit on how it was designed(and if you want those features) is up to you.
 
I'll chime in here. I'm building a very similar dual-triangulated 4-link. You can view my build in the members build area. I played around with the anti-squat (AS) calculator but throw it out the window when the rig's COG is transferred (incline, off-camber, etc..). Without a body lift, your frame side separation will be around 3-3.5". The upper link will come in contact with the step in the tub. Trying to get vertical separation at the axle (25% rule of thumb), forced me to drop the lower links below axle centerline (CL). I made all my own link-mounts as there wasn't a single manufacturer who made a 30 degree axle tab, that was made to go below axle CL. I'm hoping my upper links will be parallel at ride height, using 4.5" of vertical separation at the frame, and my lower links should be 9*-10*.

On paper, my AS values will be around 110% in the configuration above. Drop the upper link down an inch, and I'll be around 120%. If I were to raise them an inch, I'd be right at 100% but I'd need to clearance the tub for my 1.5" upper links (only @ full bump).
 
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This was an interesting read, thanks for sharing.

I’ve been curious about the differences in how people setup suspensions. There’s not a whole lot of detailed information about this online. And from what info is available, I frankly don’t know enough to tell right from wrong.

In so far, I better appreciate having an appropriate belly height, suspension geometry etc, rather than chasing after LCOG.
 
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I'll chime in here. I'm building a very similar dual-triangulated 4-link. You can view my build in the members build area. I played around with the anti-squat (AS) calculator but throw it out the window when the rig's COG is transferred (incline, off-camber, etc..). Without a body lift, your frame side separation will be around 3-3.5". The upper link will come in contact with the step in the tub. Trying to get vertical separation at the axle (25% rule of thumb), forced me to drop the lower links below axle centerline (CL). I made all my own link-mounts as there wasn't a single manufacturer who made a 30 degree axle tab, that was made to go below axle CL. I'm hoping my upper links will be parallel at ride height, using 4.5" of vertical separation at the frame, and my lower links should be 9*-10*.

On paper, my AS values will be around 110% in the configuration above. Drop the upper link down an inch, and I'll be around 120%. If I were to raise them an inch, I'd be right at 100% but I'd need to clearance the tub for my 1.5" upper links (only @ full bump).

How are you calculating your static COG?
 
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Th
I'll chime in here. I'm building a very similar dual-triangulated 4-link. You can view my build in the members build area. I played around with the anti-squat (AS) calculator but throw it out the window when the rig's COG is transferred (incline, off-camber, etc..). Without a body lift, your frame side separation will be around 3-3.5". The upper link will come in contact with the step in the tub. Trying to get vertical separation at the axle (25% rule of thumb), forced me to drop the lower links below axle centerline (CL). I made all my own link-mounts as there wasn't a single manufacturer who made a 30 degree axle tab, that was made to go below axle CL. I'm hoping my upper links will be parallel at ride height, using 4.5" of vertical separation at the frame, and my lower links should be 9*-10*.

On paper, my AS values will be around 110% in the configuration above. Drop the upper link down an inch, and I'll be around 120%. If I were to raise them an inch, I'd be right at 100% but I'd need to clearance the tub for my 1.5" upper links (only @ full bump).

Great points being made bc anti squat revolves around the COG and with every build this can move depending on what engine trans and all the stuff on or in the jeep itself. It’s easy to see how one thing can move this number around and how hard it is to actually pin point the COG.
 
This was an interesting read, thanks for sharing.

I’ve been curious about the differences in how people setup suspensions. There’s not a whole lot of detailed information about this online. And from what info is available, I frankly don’t know enough to tell right from wrong.

In so far, I better appreciate having an appropriate belly height, suspension geometry etc, rather than chasing after LCOG.

Thank you for appreciating it. It still doesn’t go over the real specifics of all these systems. The math of more properties such as roll center and the difference between upper and lower lengths and how they play into the geometry and pinion angle, physical chassis limitations such as fitting more frame side separation or axle side upper hitting the body at full bump, and build applications of a jeep all have a play. All of which I didn’t mention and should be considered when looking into these more.
 
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Thank you for appreciating it. It still doesn’t go over the real specifics of all these systems. The math of more properties such as roll center and the difference between upper and lower lengths and how they play into the geometry and pinion angle, physical chassis limitations such as fitting more frame side separation or axle side upper hitting the body at full bump, and build applications of a jeep all have a play. All of which I didn’t mention and should be considered when looking into these more.

Yup, all very interesting stuff to learn for those willing to go beyond the typical Jeep build.

Personally, I’m a bit weary coming off of just completing a couple car projects, so I’m very thankful to have the Savvy midarm with proven performance for an easy install.
 
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We talk a lot about instant center here but a topic that I think is underdiscussed is roll center. Can't really change it with a track bar but a four link opens the possibility of raising or lowering it and I'm curious what the goals were regarding it when the savvy, or genright, or anybody else's suspension kit was designed.
 
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We talk a lot about instant center here but a topic that I think is underdiscussed is roll center. Can't really change it with a track bar but a four link opens the possibility of raising or lowering it and I'm curious what the goals were regarding it when the savvy, or genright, or anybody else's suspension kit was designed.

Also curious to the order of priority when it comes to building stuff. I’d assume some things change and or limit other things when trying to get all the numbers right. So what aspects take priority? What aspects are effected that no one talks about?
 
Also curious to the order of priority when it comes to building stuff. I’d assume some things change and or limit other things when trying to get all the numbers right. So what aspects take priority? What aspects are effected that no one talks about?

The priority is the same thing that is always offered in these types of threads. Fix the suspension geometry when the suspension geometry becomes a problem to be solved.
 
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The priority is the same thing that is always offered in these types of threads. Fix the suspension geometry when the suspension geometry becomes a problem to be solved.

So most kits that bring up all these other geometry numbers are most likely prioritizing or just talking about the wrong thing to distract the failed attempt to fix the original problem that the stock arms have in a more extreme build?
 
So most kits that bring up all these other geometry numbers are most likely prioritizing or just talking about the wrong thing to distract the failed attempt to fix the original problem that the stock arms have in a more extreme build?

The question is what geometry problems are there with lifted short arms that one might want to address?
 
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The question is what geometry problems are there with lifted short arms?

My knowledge and pls correct or add is this. Minimal antisquat change over desired both by rude height and through the travel, steep enough link when climbing and flexed it wants to dig rather than climb steep or undercut ledges(believe this is only on 12 travel to cause enough droop to become an issue), minimal flex steer from shorter arms and rear steer with a track bar, and loss off wheelbase when drooped. All of which are only seen when every inch of travel is used (currie coils and 12in outboard) as well as pushed in situations where those extreme angles are being used.
 
My knowledge and pls correct or add is this. Minimal antisquat change over desired both by rude height and through the travel, steep enough link when climbing and flexed it wants to dig rather than climb steep or undercut ledges(believe this is only on 12 travel to cause enough droop to become an issue), minimal flex steer from shorter arms and rear steer with a track bar, and loss off wheelbase when drooped. All of which are only seen when every inch of travel is used (currie coils and 12in outboard) as well as pushed in situations where those extreme angles are being used.

Step back from the marketing a bit. What bad habits resulting from suspension geometry can happen with lifted short arms?
 
Step back from the marketing a bit. What bad habits resulting from suspension geometry can happen with lifted short arms?

Hoping on steep climbs, difficulty in climbing ledges or undercuts, limited to 12in of travel.
 
I'm not sure where the practical limit of the factory length arms is, but I'm guessing a 5 link setup cannot handle much more than 12" of travel. At some point near that mark, the front axle moves so far backwards that there will be issues with steering, pinion angle, driveshaft length and the load on frame and axle brackets. Same problem in the rear that the rear axle gets so far forwards that driveshaft length, pinion angle, trackbar bind etc will be the limit. Longer that factory length arms will alleviate these problems with diminishing returns. Longer isn't better, but it may be necessary for some builds. Lots of go fast rigs will have rear control arms, now called trailing arms, near 4 feet in length to accommodate 3 feet of suspension travel. But the same setup is crap in the rocks, unless you mean to rock crawl at highway speeds.
 
I'm not sure where the practical limit of the factory length arms is, but I'm guessing a 5 link setup cannot handle much more than 12" of travel. At some point near that mark, the front axle moves so far backwards that there will be issues with steering, pinion angle, driveshaft length and the load on frame and axle brackets. Same problem in the rear that the rear axle gets so far forwards that driveshaft length, pinion angle, trackbar bind etc will be the limit. Longer that factory length arms will alleviate these problems with diminishing returns. Longer isn't better, but it may be necessary for some builds. Lots of go fast rigs will have rear control arms, now called trailing arms, near 4 feet in length to accommodate 3 feet of suspension travel. But the same setup is crap in the rocks, unless you mean to rock crawl at highway speeds.

On a Rubicon with a raised belly, the rear driveshaft is going to bind up before a 12" shock split 50/50 reaches full extension. Mine has a center limit strap for this reason. Even on a 231 with a sssye, rear 12s is about the maximum articulation on stock axles with decent wheel backspacing before the inner sidewall starts digging into the shocks and coils. Packaging restraints keep us at 12" shocks after an outboard while keeping things reasonable.

The front is less forgiving to where 11s after new shock mounts is the reasonable limit. Mine has 12s up front, but there is nothing easy about making that happen and still work as well as mine do.

However, short arms or track bars aren't what physically stops us from doing 11/12 shocks. It's the stock axle width and their packaging restraints. Wheelbase also plays an important role with packaging as well as performance.

Point being that there are many layers upon layers of interests and concerns that lead to a complete suspension redesign that is also a successful and effective effort.