Getting the frame sandblasted—how far to take the disassembly?

Vtx531

TJ Addict
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Messages
1,661
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Looking have some sandblasting done on my frame. It is rusty and has rot-through in various places (bad near the rear lower control arm mounts because it was parked on a steep driveway outside)

Originally I had plans in my head to do a frame-off restoration but I have lowered my expectations to something more realistic and decided to take it in and get it blasted as it sits. Way better than nothing right?

Then I got to thinking…. I should take the front fenders off…. Then drop the gas tank so the blaster can access the inside frame rails…. The the exhaust for inside frame-rail access on the pass side… Then maybe the driveshafts and remove the u joints to get those done… Could keep going but have to stop somewhere.

So thats’ kind of where Im at. Looking for opinions or advice on anyone who has done this?

Think I’ll get some Eastwood black epoxy primer to spray it myself after and matte black topcoat of some sort. Probably single stage urethane also from eastwood?

or go back to my earlier plan and just get it blasted everywhere he can reach without disassembly and Krylon Fusion spray can it afterward?

Either way- it should be a massive improvement.

6976777C-EBD8-4502-B749-D0E2C227C431.jpeg


9B8118D6-0615-49FA-8652-DE4813E695DC.jpeg
 
How bad is the rot? I see holes in the last photo.

You may not have much left after sandblasting.

Are you going to repair the frame?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MaximusLJR06
Also if you have a decent compressor, sand blasting equipment wouldn't cost you that much and you could do it yourself.
 
Yes, I plan on repairing the frame so hoping this project will highlight the problem spots. Right now I’m more concerned that most of the body mounts are not attached to anything on the body.

Also, I forgot to put the bumpers, swaybar cover, and trailer hitch on the removal list.
 
Also if you have a decent compressor, sand blasting equipment wouldn't cost you that much and you could do it yourself.
Actually got the equipment but it is kind of small and the sandblaster quoted me $200 which seems like a great price and worth not doing it myself even though normally I do EVERYTHING myself.

I started a thread about that recently which led me to now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and Apparition
More pics would help. That last pic tells me you have more than just frame strip & paint on the list. Those brake lines look ready to pop.

Do you have a welder to repair the areas that either need full replacement and/or reinforcement?

At $200 for the whole frame, that seems worthwhile to me compared to cost for buying a sandblaster, consumables, and time. Just be sure what all will be included before you put the cash down.
 
More pics would help. That last pic tells me you have more than just frame strip & paint on the list. Those brake lines look ready to pop.

Do you have a welder to repair the areas that either need full replacement and/or reinforcement?

At $200 for the whole frame, that seems worthwhile to me compared to cost for buying a sandblaster, consumables, and time. Just be sure what all will be included before you put the cash down.
Those brake lines are stainless steel replacements and only a couple years old…right?! I have a welder for frame repairs that are inevitable.
How long do you plan on keeping the Jeep because I hate seeing people spending only to delay the inevitable. Been there done that kinda thing.
Good thinking. I plan on keeping it as long as possible. It was my first car I got brand new at 16 so I am attached to it otherwise it would probably have been crushed and shredded by now.

I ordered a can of 2-part epoxy spray primer in black. Probably not enough to do the whole frame after sandblasting but enough to do the main parts that are visible without crawling up underneath and I’ll do regular spray can primer on any other areas after I run out of the good stuff. Plan on topcoating everything with spray can enamel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and TJ4Jim
Those brake lines are stainless steel replacements and only a couple years old…right?! I have a welder for frame repairs that are inevitable.

Good thinking. I plan on keeping it as long as possible. It was my first car I got brand new at 16 so I am attached to it otherwise it would probably have been crushed and shredded by now.

I ordered a can of 2-part epoxy spray primer in black. Probably not enough to do the whole frame after sandblasting but enough to do the main parts that are visible without crawling up underneath and I’ll do regular spray can primer on any other areas after I run out of the good stuff. Plan on topcoating everything with spray can enamel.
I get the attachment and know the feeling. I performed a preservation attempt back in 13' on my 99 removing the entire lower frame section where the skid sits. Cleaned out the frame in each direction used a 2 part coating then replaced the bad steel. Lasted me a little over 6 years when it started showing up at the rear lower CA mounts and at that point it was over. A new 14T sawzall blade went thru the remains like butter when I chopped it up.
 
Hi, trust me. Body of the frame is a very simple project. Like the other party said, you are just delaying the real job.
It doesn’t look simple! but good to hear that. Body off the frame is just not in the cards for me at this time. Maybe ”someday” down the road. So really the options are:

1. Just leave it and spraypaint over the rust temporarily

2. Work on it a little bit at a time on my own and use rattle cans as I go. (I went out there with my paint spray gun to do a dry run and I can’t really get into tight areas)

3. On the frame sandblast and since it will all be done in one day, I can paint with the epoxy primer that only has a 48 hour pot life once mixed.

I get the attachment and know the feeling. I performed a preservation attempt back in 13' on my 99 removing the entire lower frame section where the skid sits. Cleaned out the frame in each direction used a 2 part coating then replaced the bad steel. Lasted me a little over 6 years when it started showing up at the rear lower CA mounts and at that point it was over. A new 14T sawzall blade went thru the remains like butter when I chopped it up.
Ahhhh, noooo. My heart! Would love to get another 20 years out of it. It doesn’t see snow, salt, or even rain anymore so I am hoping the corrosion rate will be slower. Any no more sand dunes or mud pits either. I am hoping there will be more variety and quality of repair and restoration parts/processes in the future if I can buy some time.
 
you got a lot going at 1 time.
for 200$ i'd let them blast all they can, if they bust through you'll have a good idea of what's it's gonna take to patch or replace bad sections. and the rest will be nice and clean for new paint.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
It doesn’t look simple! but good to hear that. Body off the frame is just not in the cards for me at this time. Maybe ”someday” down the road. So really the options are:

1. Just leave it and spraypaint over the rust temporarily

2. Work on it a little bit at a time on my own and use rattle cans as I go. (I went out there with my paint spray gun to do a dry run and I can’t really get into tight areas)

3. On the frame sandblast and since it will all be done in one day, I can paint with the epoxy primer that only has a 48 hour pot life once mixed.


Ahhhh, noooo. My heart! Would love to get another 20 years out of it. It doesn’t see snow, salt, or even rain anymore so I am hoping the corrosion rate will be slower. Any no more sand dunes or mud pits either. I am hoping there will be more variety and quality of repair and restoration parts/processes in the future if I can buy some time.

Can't see option #1 being a safe endeavor. You have several spots that NEED to be wire wheeled or sand blasted to see the damage and how much has been rusted through. That could be a way to do option #2 - prioritize the obvious spots where items are welded to the frame and need to be checked.

It's a project for sure. Wish you luck and looking forward to watching progress.
 
Your pics show rot holes behind the steering box mount and in the rear lower control arm mounts. You most certainly will have rot in the mid-section. Whatever you see now, the blasting process will enlarge the holes and you'll have to go "above" that to reach weldable steel. By leaving the body, suspension, and t-case skid on you're missing a ton of surface are and nooks & crannies- most notably the top of the body mounts, inside all control arm mounts, the rear tray/shock mount crossmember.

You're risking sand infiltration in to dang near every bearing, seal, and rotating assembly. If it's wet or sticky it'll hold sand. You're risking damage to the electrical body harness, and whatever else accidently gets in the way of the nozzle.

Take a look at the pics in this thread LINK and notice all the spots that'd be missed in your process. If leaving body and suspension on, I'd a least remove the fuel and brake lines to clean and prep the areas for the inevitable frame repair. Consider rigging a trans support from inside the tub so you can drop the t-case skid plate, too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FarFire70
you got a lot going at 1 time.
for 200$ i'd let them blast all they can, if they bust through you'll have a good idea of what's it's gonna take to patch or replace bad sections. and the rest will be nice and clean for new paint.
To your first point- I completely agree and that’s why I don’t want to lift the body off frame right now.
Can't see option #1 being a safe endeavor. You have several spots that NEED to be wire wheeled or sand blasted to see the damage and how much has been rusted through. That could be a way to do option #2 - prioritize the obvious spots where items are welded to the frame and need to be checked.

It's a project for sure. Wish you luck and looking forward to watching progress.
Thank you
Your pics show rot holes behind the steering box mount and in the rear lower control arm mounts. You most certainly will have rot in the mid-section. Whatever you see now, the blasting process will enlarge the holes and you'll have to go "above" that to reach weldable steel. By leaving the body, suspension, and t-case skid on you're missing a ton of surface are and nooks & crannies- most notably the top of the body mounts, inside all control arm mounts, the rear tray/shock mount crossmember.

You're risking sand infiltration in to dang near every bearing, seal, and rotating assembly. If it's wet or sticky it'll hold sand. You're risking damage to the electrical body harness, and whatever else accidently gets in the way of the nozzle.

Take a look at the pics in this thread LINK and notice all the spots that'd be missed in your process. If leaving body and suspension on, I'd a least remove the fuel and brake lines to clean and prep the areas for the inevitable frame repair. Consider rigging a trans support from inside the tub so you can drop the t-case skid plate, too.
Awesome restoration you have going. Lots of time invested in that one! Gives me something to aspire to. That steering box was completely filled with sand and rust. I have that cleaned out now. If the blasting enlarges any holes, they weren’t providing any strength anyway, right?

Agree that those areas will be missed - top of the body mounts, inside control arms mounts, rear shock cross member - but it would be more manageable for me to do a bit at a time of the missed spots with my small compressor/blaster setup Compared to the ENTIRE frame.

Sand in the bearings and everything is a real threat that worries me a bit. Have you found sandblasting would hurt a harness or rubber, wires, etc? I was under the impression it only affects hard/brittle surfaces like rust and paint. I remember blasting right up next to the rubber body bushings with no noticeable effect.

I was considering bringing a 3/4” socket and lowering the tcase skid as much as possible while leave the bolts in and thinking he could clean up inside there a little bit. (And bringing a couple ratchet straps to hold up the tcase in the event all the metal blasts through and the bolts won’t hold up the skid for my drive home).

I would like to drive it to and from the blaster to avoid having to rent a trailer and borrow a truck. Realizing I will need to take extra care cleaning prior to paint when I get home due to dirt/oil kicked up from the road and from my own Jeep while driving.
 
So, I decided against sandblasting the frame with the body on it.

I think a body-off-the-frame project is in my future. To get me by until then, I'm doing the needle scaler, surfacing disc, rusty metal primer, flat black approach.

Seems like removing everything from the frame and blasting it is the way to go.

Hey, look! That hole by the steering box healed. New brake lines coming tomorrow too. Turns out the ones I bought a few years ago were not stainless like I thought but the ones coming tomorrow are.

48FB45C2-68D5-46CC-82E1-61339D66301E.jpeg


451891B7-425B-4D72-9B9A-44AE70654670.jpeg
 
Last edited:
So, I decided against sandblasting the frame with the body on it.

I think a body-off-the-frame project is in my future. To get me by until then, I'm doing the needle scaler, surfacing disc, rusty metal primer, flat black approach.

Seems like removing everything from the frame and blasting it is the way to go.

Hey, look! That hole by the steering box healed. New brake lines coming tomorrow too. Turns out the ones I bought a few years ago were not stainless like I thought but the ones coming tomorrow are.

View attachment 357718

View attachment 357719

If you decide to go ahead with a frame up restoration don't under estimate how much space a vehicle takes up when it is in pieces. I've had 2 or 3 cars (not Jeeps) apart at once for restoration and storage and organization can get a bit overwhelming. Even 1 can! Good luck with it! (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vtx531
If you decide to go ahead with a frame up restoration don't under estimate how much space a vehicle takes up when it is in pieces. I've had 2 or 3 cars (not Jeeps) apart at once for restoration and storage and organization can get a bit overwhelming. Even 1 can! Good luck with it! (y)

Ya, I'm sort of already there. I have everything taken apart for exterior painting and interior all removed for the floorboard replacement project. Taking up all of my two car garage. Can't wait to get the fenders and grill back on to free up some space.
IT IS NO BIG PROJECT TO TAKE THE BODY OFF THE FRAME, JUST DO IT.

Now that I already have all the body mounts taken apart, I'm hoping you are right! Current stage is to get the body work done. Next big project will be dealing with the frame. Excited to get to that next stage!
 
  • Like
Reactions: PCO6