Going from 4 inch heels to original slippers (posting as I go)
- Thread starter 2005 wrangler X ?
- Start date
Drivers side rear, unhooked the shock, top bottom
The top was a Pain in the butt 2 extensions and 1 universal
and that rubber-boot being in the way and i kept spinning my universal because i didnt get a proper seat of the socket and chasing the socket as it would fly off the universal and go zinging around that and my drop light wouldn't stay so I could see
so I did get a little smarter and used the flat light i bought at horror freight. with crap falling into my face, luckily I wear glasses
BUT there Tri-Focal so thats a Pain getting my head at the right angle to FRICKEN SEE , LUCKILY They anti seize'd the bolts so they did back right out
when i FINALLY got all the stars,Moon,and Sun in alignment
unhooked the control arm 0-10 on the curse meter = 0 --again anti-seize
unhooked the sway bar link curse meter = 0 bolts coated
Moved over to the Passenger side
Used a piece of electrical wire to hold down the shock boot, LOTS more Room got my lights in alignment and with the Socket
all nice and FLAT I tried to get the bolt out, NOPE just ratatat-tat shake and vibrate OMFrickenGod, and nightmares of having to drop the gas tank goes though my Peon of a Brain, Then thought of "Do I really want to wet rag the tank and try to heat the Bolt
with visions of blowing myself up
So then picking up the Hammer Drill and Evil Eying it I SEE just how STUPID I CAN GET
I had the Dam thing on TIGHTEN (so now i know its REALLY REALLY tight and NOT stripped out
clicked it to Loosen and wizzzzzbang came buzzin right out again there was antiseize , getting Lucky here
removed the bottom bolt on the sway bar link
lifted with the jack, removed jack-stand and lowered the axle watching my break line, TONS of room
lifted the spring out and removed bumper then bolt and booster puck.cleaned everything replaced puck and NEW short Bolt
Did NOT use the New Bump Cap as mine looks like crap but thats what it is Crap stuck to the Fluid film.
Curse Meter = 0
jacked axle to ride height floor jacked it
Moved back over to drivers side
Dropped axle watching my Brake line left some wiggle room
crapola spring slightly loose but still on the lower mount there was NO jacking up the other end as I tried it slightly and it put stress on the brake line (maybe a bad pivot point?) with my jack stand
so
with a pickle fork, long screwdriver and a prybar alot of grunting swearing as it slid off my assortment of metal nightmares
along with the spring snapping sounds as it REFUSED to slide UP off the seat
I FINALLY got it half way off with the screw-ME- driver jammed on the seat and spring (maybe i SHOULD have used the spring clamps BUT you-all know how much i like those EVIL things
so saying some prayers I took my pickle fork and pry bar and edged it up onto the screwdriver SLOWLY at the tip of the screwdriver with the spring perched precariously I listened to the little birdy resting on my shoulder SCREAMING GO-FOR-IT
ZIIIIINGGGGGGGG CRASHHHHHHHH BANGGGGGGG OHSHEEEEEET--open eyes--still have fingers all 10 NO Blood anywhere
The spring now resting on the OLD removed parts pile-Like it knew where it BELONGED, The screw driver after hitting the plastic wheel well was behind me near the garage door, Looking up a said THANK YOU as it missed me
reflection-memory of my past, walking into a garage shop in yellystone as some idiot was just bringing down a sledge onto a pry bar UNDER a stuck SPLIT RING on a tire, I remember screaming STOP and turning my head and before i could duck
then waking up in an emergency room with a doctor telling me how LUCKY I was, 1/4 inch either way and I would have been "BRAIN Pudding" it hit me on the strongest part of the eye socket with a hairline fractured socket and 10 stitches later and I went back and worked there for the summer for a low wage and 1 return flight to maine YUP i was broke and traveling around LOL didnt believe in lawyers and wasn't sue-happy just Glad I was ALIVE
back to our scheduled program removed bump stop bolt and cup, reinstalled cup and bump stop
cleaned lower spring mount
upper sway bar bolt wouldent fit into the NEW sway bar so removed the other side and compared all four bolts with the two new sway bars 1 bolt would NOT fit in both of them on 1 end
swear meter =9 I still have the originals and they wont rust slid in with NO slop all 4 bolts
installed lower bolts for shock adjusting my jack to get the bolt holes lined up
onto the FRICKEN sway bar tork Bolt
jiggle/adjust/wiggle/cargo strap/ and some choice curse words to the lady in black with 2 heels still left on
I get it lined up and slid the bolt in stuck the tork socket on it and started to tighten it down WHAT WHERES the fricken NUT
1/2 hr later I find it on one of the bracket removal bolts stick it onto my thin wrench and doing an old-fart contortion i slide the bolt in and i hear a tinkle tinkle as the FRICKEN bolt fall out of the wrench, Thank GOD I find it in the front of the mount-space for two fingers and wiggle it out along with dirt and small pebbles OMG
THREE trys Bang head on Jeep
That's an Hour ill NEVER get Back
Off to the bench clean bolt,clean wrench break out the electrical tape wrap bolt in newfangled blankie
easy-POUND wrench onto bolt, SMILE sit and relax as the pro-PAIN turbo heats the shop sip on my coffee and stare at my jeep and remember my dads advice "You can do anything if you put your mind to it" YUP even when riding life on the short buss as I laugh and giggle
Break over,Back on my knees (playing Doctor with the tweezers and bones — remember that game? buzzer and light you loose)
slide bolt in finger feel bolt hole FOUND IT spin bolt in (no buzzer no light No Choice swear words) tighten bolt with wrench
tap wrench holding nut and pull wrench out whew DONE
TILL NEXT TIME
cheers
John
,
The top was a Pain in the butt 2 extensions and 1 universal
and that rubber-boot being in the way and i kept spinning my universal because i didnt get a proper seat of the socket and chasing the socket as it would fly off the universal and go zinging around that and my drop light wouldn't stay so I could see
so I did get a little smarter and used the flat light i bought at horror freight. with crap falling into my face, luckily I wear glasses
BUT there Tri-Focal so thats a Pain getting my head at the right angle to FRICKEN SEE , LUCKILY They anti seize'd the bolts so they did back right out
when i FINALLY got all the stars,Moon,and Sun in alignmentunhooked the control arm 0-10 on the curse meter = 0 --again anti-seize
unhooked the sway bar link curse meter = 0 bolts coated
Moved over to the Passenger side
Used a piece of electrical wire to hold down the shock boot, LOTS more Room got my lights in alignment and with the Socket
all nice and FLAT I tried to get the bolt out, NOPE just ratatat-tat shake and vibrate OMFrickenGod, and nightmares of having to drop the gas tank goes though my Peon of a Brain, Then thought of "Do I really want to wet rag the tank and try to heat the Bolt
with visions of blowing myself up
So then picking up the Hammer Drill and Evil Eying it I SEE just how STUPID I CAN GETI had the Dam thing on TIGHTEN (so now i know its REALLY REALLY tight and NOT stripped out
clicked it to Loosen and wizzzzzbang came buzzin right out
again there was antiseize , getting Lucky hereremoved the bottom bolt on the sway bar link
lifted with the jack, removed jack-stand and lowered the axle watching my break line, TONS of room
lifted the spring out and removed bumper then bolt and booster puck.cleaned everything replaced puck and NEW short Bolt
Did NOT use the New Bump Cap as mine looks like crap but thats what it is Crap stuck to the Fluid film.
Curse Meter = 0
jacked axle to ride height floor jacked it
Moved back over to drivers side
Dropped axle watching my Brake line left some wiggle room
crapola spring slightly loose but still on the lower mount
there was NO jacking up the other end as I tried it slightly and it put stress on the brake line (maybe a bad pivot point?) with my jack standso
with a pickle fork, long screwdriver and a prybar alot of grunting swearing as it slid off my assortment of metal nightmares
along with the spring snapping sounds as it REFUSED to slide UP off the seat
I FINALLY got it half way off with the screw-ME- driver jammed on the seat and spring (maybe i SHOULD have used the spring clamps BUT you-all know how much i like those EVIL things
so saying some prayers I took my pickle fork and pry bar and edged it up onto the screwdriver SLOWLY at the tip of the screwdriver with the spring perched precariously I listened to the little birdy resting on my shoulder SCREAMING GO-FOR-IT
ZIIIIINGGGGGGGG CRASHHHHHHHH BANGGGGGGG OHSHEEEEEET--open eyes--still have fingers all 10 NO Blood anywhere
The spring now resting on the OLD removed parts pile-Like it knew where it BELONGED, The screw driver after hitting the plastic wheel well was behind me near the garage door, Looking up a said THANK YOU as it missed me
reflection-memory of my past, walking into a garage shop in yellystone as some idiot was just bringing down a sledge onto a pry bar UNDER a stuck SPLIT RING on a tire, I remember screaming STOP and turning my head and before i could duck
then waking up in an emergency room with a doctor telling me how LUCKY I was, 1/4 inch either way and I would have been "BRAIN Pudding" it hit me on the strongest part of the eye socket with a hairline fractured socket and 10 stitches later and I went back and worked there for the summer for a low wage and 1 return flight to maine YUP i was broke and traveling around LOL didnt believe in lawyers and wasn't sue-happy just Glad I was ALIVE
back to our scheduled program removed bump stop bolt and cup, reinstalled cup and bump stop
cleaned lower spring mount
upper sway bar bolt wouldent fit into the NEW sway bar so removed the other side and compared all four bolts with the two new sway bars 1 bolt would NOT fit in both of them on 1 end
swear meter =9 I still have the originals and they wont rust
slid in with NO slop all 4 boltsinstalled lower bolts for shock adjusting my jack to get the bolt holes lined up
onto the FRICKEN sway bar tork Bolt
jiggle/adjust/wiggle/cargo strap/ and some choice curse words to the lady in black with 2 heels still left on
I get it lined up and slid the bolt in stuck the tork socket on it and started to tighten it down WHAT WHERES the fricken NUT
1/2 hr later I find it on one of the bracket removal bolts stick it onto my thin wrench and doing an old-fart contortion i slide the bolt in and i hear a tinkle tinkle as the FRICKEN bolt fall out of the wrench, Thank GOD I find it in the front of the mount-space for two fingers and wiggle it out along with dirt and small pebbles OMG
THREE trys Bang head on Jeep
That's an Hour ill NEVER get Back
Off to the bench clean bolt,clean wrench break out the electrical tape wrap bolt in newfangled blankie
easy-POUND wrench onto bolt, SMILE sit and relax as the pro-PAIN turbo heats the shop sip on my coffee and stare at my jeep and remember my dads advice "You can do anything if you put your mind to it" YUP even when riding life on the short buss as I laugh and giggle
Break over,Back on my knees (playing Doctor with the tweezers and bones — remember that game? buzzer and light you loose)
slide bolt in finger feel bolt hole FOUND IT spin bolt in (no buzzer no light No Choice swear words) tighten bolt with wrench
tap wrench holding nut and pull wrench out whew DONE
TILL NEXT TIME
cheers
John
,
automatic transmissionHELP. soonest imwondrin if ive got a problem
snapped some pics of the "BELLY OF THE BEAST"
and im thunkin ive got an adapter on my shift linkage. what say you?
anyway I went ahead and dropped the pan BUT before i rip my carpet up
stuck a jack stand under the tail shaft with a chunk of wood-pine
undid the tranny bolt-4 of them from the belly pan
centered jack after taking all but the 2 center bolts out, took the last two bolts out and dropped the jack
BUT before i rip my carpet up
do I need to unhook it all and take out the lowering bracket?
will it work WITH the bracket?
if I need to take it out and take the bracket OFF
can SOMEONE point me to where I Position and when i position the 4W drive shifter?
and the auto shift knob?
If someone could PLEASE do a numbered step by step for me id be very grateful
Ill even buy you a six-pack of beer. you gotta have paypal so i can sent it to ya
tired and confused
thank you all
snapped some pics of the "BELLY OF THE BEAST"
and im thunkin ive got an adapter on my shift linkage. what say you?
anyway I went ahead and dropped the pan BUT before i rip my carpet up
stuck a jack stand under the tail shaft with a chunk of wood-pine
undid the tranny bolt-4 of them from the belly pan
centered jack after taking all but the 2 center bolts out, took the last two bolts out and dropped the jack
BUT before i rip my carpet up
do I need to unhook it all and take out the lowering bracket?
will it work WITH the bracket?
if I need to take it out and take the bracket OFF
can SOMEONE point me to where I Position and when i position the 4W drive shifter?
and the auto shift knob?
If someone could PLEASE do a numbered step by step for me id be very grateful
Ill even buy you a six-pack of beer
. you gotta have paypal so i can sent it to ya tired and confused
thank you all
ok so here is my thoughts/plan so far
PLEASE interrupt and Give Advice before i wreck something it will be about 8 hrs before I go out and crawl into the belly of the beast
1- I plan on measuring the thickness of the lowering bars -i think there 1inch but ill make sure
2-cut me a 3/4 X1 (stick as i have tons of it on hand) to the length of the transmission pan bolts to floor PLUS the thickness of the drop bars
3-lean said stick along transmission and jack tail-stock up until stick falls to floor, crawl under, make sure stick is resting semi-tight at the bolts and measure, Do hated Math
4-put jack stand back under tail-stock with added pine board as need to get my measured (original?) height
5- remove shifting assembly and remove the DROP-bracket
6-Clean bracket and as seen in photo the "ARM or SHAFT. whateveryoucallit"
7-? put normal driving auto shifter in low?
8-? put 4WD Lever in 4WD LOW ?
9- reinstall shift linkage
10- Adjust "lock bracket/nut on the arm/shaft" and tighten up
11-I am assuming the black "nob" thing on the transmission side "SHOULD" go back into the hole on the bracket "EASILY"
12-check radiator shroud and frame blades before starting
13- use floor jack and replace belly pan
in the picture upper right corner im assuming this is the 4WD Lever hookup shaft/rod/lever ?
that ill need to adjust and lock down? as you can see the rod/shaft is rusty so it needs some cleaning
do i need to worry about my exhaust pipes "cats" or strain on the header flange?
i have NO idea if the brackets or rubbers on the exhaust connectors are stock or have been changed out for the 4inch lift
hopefully im thinking this right
input please
THANK YOU
cheers
John
PLEASE interrupt and Give Advice before i wreck something it will be about 8 hrs before I go out and crawl into the belly of the beast
1- I plan on measuring the thickness of the lowering bars -i think there 1inch but ill make sure
2-cut me a 3/4 X1 (stick as i have tons of it on hand) to the length of the transmission pan bolts to floor PLUS the thickness of the drop bars
3-lean said stick along transmission and jack tail-stock up until stick falls to floor, crawl under, make sure stick is resting semi-tight at the bolts and measure, Do hated Math
4-put jack stand back under tail-stock with added pine board as need to get my measured (original?) height
5- remove shifting assembly and remove the DROP-bracket
6-Clean bracket and as seen in photo the "ARM or SHAFT. whateveryoucallit"
7-? put normal driving auto shifter in low?
8-? put 4WD Lever in 4WD LOW ?
9- reinstall shift linkage
10- Adjust "lock bracket/nut on the arm/shaft" and tighten up
11-I am assuming the black "nob" thing on the transmission side "SHOULD" go back into the hole on the bracket "EASILY"
12-check radiator shroud and frame blades before starting
13- use floor jack and replace belly pan
in the picture upper right corner im assuming this is the 4WD Lever hookup shaft/rod/lever ?
that ill need to adjust and lock down? as you can see the rod/shaft is rusty so it needs some cleaning
do i need to worry about my exhaust pipes "cats" or strain on the header flange?
i have NO idea if the brackets or rubbers on the exhaust connectors are stock or have been changed out for the 4inch lift
hopefully im thinking this right
input please
THANK YOU
cheers
John
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To remove the transfer case drop bracket, you need to pull the driver's side carpet up and unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the bracket that's underneath. Once that's loose, slide the linkage off the bracket and unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the drop bracket plate. Then, bolt it back to the bracket, put the entire bracket against the tub and align the holes to bolt it back from inside the Jeep. Adjust the linkage once everything is back together.
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im figuring i will need to readjust? what position does the 4WD lever go into and the lever underneath the jeep in relation to tailpipe and engine?
I slept most of the day away, tired or just relief is all over dont know LOL
last night I put the ol girl into Neutral and 4LOW
slid under with my assortment of wrenches and flashlight and my corded drop light
magnetic light kept falling into my face (it needs a bigger magnet so i chucked across the garage)
wrenched the nuts off the extension plate OMG it took forever dirt sticky grime all over my face and glasses
she wasn't giving up easily got the nut loosened on the 4WD adjuster bracket
then on to the 2 bolts that hold the plate onto the linkage bracket, as in feeling up in there i found NO NUTS
wrenched on the bolts and yup they were backing out another round of forever with some rest for my arms and fingers that were cramping up by now finally two bracket bolts out
once unbolted i see i have some slop and stared at it, then gently pushed the arm to the side and slid the lowering bracket off the arm assembly then i had this LIGHTBULB moment
got my jacks and jack-stands re arranged and slowly lifted the transmission to "close enough" for the Black cone? to slide into its original hole
with some grunting i got it into the hole WHEW YAAAAAAA NO carpet work for me
lining up the holes for the bolts was a trial in itself some choice words and i finally got both bolts in and spun down with my fingers
the wrenched them tight
tightened up the 4WD shift arm bracket crawled out from underneath and took a break( COFFEE ) while the shop heated back up
got the pan/shield onto my jack (dam that thing is HEAVY for an old fart)and balanced kinda then removed the bottle jack using a jack-stand back on the tranny shaft
slid and wiggled the pan to line up with the transmission bolts and slowly jacked it up until the bolts peeked through
stuck the nuts on them quick with my fingers before she decided to do something revengeful
using my "kit" bolts i lined up the pan and jacked the pan up then farted and swore as I went from one side to the other getting the Original bolts into the frame because of the jack the pan did not come up flush to the frame so alot of small jack shifts and wiggling with the small bolts were needed finally got them in and tightened up removed the jack and tightened up the transmission bolts
the went in from the back and loosened and re-tightened the 4WD shift linkage
took everything from under it and let it back on its ORIGINAL slippers
opened the garage door and backed her out with fingers crossed all my normal shifts are working and all my 4WD shifting is working
so i drove it down the road no shaking,in the seat of my pants OR in the gas pedal or shifter, no death wobble went up to 50mph
(im surprised here as i didn't touch the front alignment) It will take the 8miles to the shop for new tires he will do an alignment when he does the new tires
fenders look a bit to WIDE but winters coming, come spring Ill probably clean the originals i have in plastic bags (the wide ones came in ) and paint them before putting them on
today or tomorrow i need to adjust the steering wheel im half a wheel off from center
Im a HAPPY old Fart its been a fun project with alot of memories
and alot of THANKS to those here who reached out and helped me with my questions
I owe you some Beers
last night I put the ol girl into Neutral and 4LOW
slid under with my assortment of wrenches and flashlight and my corded drop light
magnetic light kept falling into my face (it needs a bigger magnet so i chucked across the garage)
wrenched the nuts off the extension plate OMG it took forever dirt sticky grime all over my face and glasses
she wasn't giving up easily got the nut loosened on the 4WD adjuster bracket
then on to the 2 bolts that hold the plate onto the linkage bracket, as in feeling up in there i found NO NUTS
wrenched on the bolts and yup they were backing out another round of forever with some rest for my arms and fingers that were cramping up by now finally two bracket bolts out
once unbolted i see i have some slop and stared at it, then gently pushed the arm to the side and slid the lowering bracket off the arm assembly then i had this LIGHTBULB moment
got my jacks and jack-stands re arranged and slowly lifted the transmission to "close enough" for the Black cone? to slide into its original hole
with some grunting i got it into the hole WHEW YAAAAAAA NO carpet work for me
lining up the holes for the bolts was a trial in itself some choice words and i finally got both bolts in and spun down with my fingers
the wrenched them tight
tightened up the 4WD shift arm bracket crawled out from underneath and took a break( COFFEE ) while the shop heated back up
got the pan/shield onto my jack (dam that thing is HEAVY for an old fart)and balanced kinda then removed the bottle jack using a jack-stand back on the tranny shaft
slid and wiggled the pan to line up with the transmission bolts and slowly jacked it up until the bolts peeked through
stuck the nuts on them quick with my fingers before she decided to do something revengeful
using my "kit" bolts i lined up the pan and jacked the pan up then farted and swore as I went from one side to the other getting the Original bolts into the frame because of the jack the pan did not come up flush to the frame so alot of small jack shifts and wiggling with the small bolts were needed finally got them in and tightened up removed the jack and tightened up the transmission bolts
the went in from the back and loosened and re-tightened the 4WD shift linkage
took everything from under it and let it back on its ORIGINAL slippers
opened the garage door and backed her out with fingers crossed all my normal shifts are working and all my 4WD shifting is working
so i drove it down the road no shaking,in the seat of my pants OR in the gas pedal or shifter, no death wobble went up to 50mph
(im surprised here as i didn't touch the front alignment) It will take the 8miles to the shop for new tires
he will do an alignment when he does the new tiresfenders look a bit to WIDE but winters coming, come spring Ill probably clean the originals i have in plastic bags (the wide ones came in ) and paint them before putting them on
today or tomorrow i need to adjust the steering wheel im half a wheel off from center
Im a HAPPY old Fart its been a fun project with alot of memories
and alot of THANKS to those here who reached out and helped me with my questions
I owe you some Beers
got my tires on order with the shop I use (inspection sticker/repairs i cant or wont do) yesterday, should be here this week
stopped at the local part shop and bought me one of those plastic tab removers,
its 1239AM and om sipping my coffee
my lower back is screaming--DONT DO IT
The lady in slippers is whispering--DO IT, DO IT
The original Flares are just that Original and gray they were put in the bags the wide flares were in by the owner before me
I DONT LIKE the gray and want to paint them
BUT just painting the original rims BLACK even with a Mask has wrecked. my lungs (there old and tired) and doing it inside the garage--Heated to 70 deg--
then bailing out to the fresh air, did not help
so there going on as is--GRAY--and wait until spring when i can keep the garage doors open, but then one wonders if the road salt --the calcium chloride they use on the road will hamper painting them later ?
then i thought of just cutting the wide flares to look like Flat-Fenders but thinks it would look MoreStupid as shes no longer wearing Heels
stopped at the local part shop and bought me one of those plastic tab removers,
its 1239AM and om sipping my coffee
my lower back is screaming--DONT DO IT
The lady in slippers is whispering--DO IT, DO IT
The original Flares are just that Original and gray they were put in the bags the wide flares were in by the owner before me
I DONT LIKE the gray and want to paint them
BUT just painting the original rims BLACK even with a Mask has wrecked. my lungs (there old and tired) and doing it inside the garage--Heated to 70 deg--
then bailing out to the fresh air, did not help
so there going on as is--GRAY--and wait until spring when i can keep the garage doors open, but then one wonders if the road salt --the calcium chloride they use on the road will hamper painting them later ?
then i thought of just cutting the wide flares to look like Flat-Fenders but thinks it would look MoreStupid as shes no longer wearing Heels
Nice write up! I've got a 2005 X model also. I sure wish I knew how you got your fender flairs looking so? Thanks
got my tires on order with the shop I use (inspection sticker/repairs i cant or wont do) yesterday, should be here this week
stopped at the local part shop and bought me one of those plastic tab removers,
its 1239AM and om sipping my coffee
my lower back is screaming--DONT DO IT
The lady in slippers is whispering--DO IT, DO IT
The original Flares are just that Original and gray they were put in the bags the wide flares were in by the owner before me
I DONT LIKE the gray and want to paint them
BUT just painting the original rims BLACK even with a Mask has wrecked. my lungs (there old and tired) and doing it inside the garage--Heated to 70 deg--
then bailing out to the fresh air, did not help
so there going on as is--GRAY--and wait until spring when i can keep the garage doors open, but then one wonders if the road salt --the calcium chloride they use on the road will hamper painting them later ?
then i thought of just cutting the wide flares to look like Flat-Fenders but thinks it would look MoreStupid as shes no longer wearing Heels
Put the grey ones on and use one of the many products that bring back the black.
Ive use this stuff
I garage my jeep so it doesn't fade as fast. I put it on once a month
I use a piece of thin cardboard against the paint as I wipe it on
I got the wider Flares off only had 2of the nuts spin out on me took an old wood chisel and smacked them out
then a round peen hammer to rearrange the metal as these had been done before I had good luck getting most of them out not rusted on for a 20yr old girl
old ones went on smoothly just alot of tussling with the rubber wells I did wreck a couple of those stupid pop pins (wrong name but im sure you get it)
I Did break the nut and post on my side marker light on the drivers side it IS old and brittle so im going to run a HOT screw into it on the bench
then use that and a washer until I get 2 replacements I FORGOT to take pics of the rear finished flares OOPS brain fartage
they DONT look Bad outside so ill probably just coat them like ive been doing on the wide ones
then a round peen hammer to rearrange the metal as these had been done before I had good luck getting most of them out not rusted on for a 20yr old girl
old ones went on smoothly just alot of tussling with the rubber wells I did wreck a couple of those stupid pop pins (wrong name but im sure you get it)
I Did break the nut and post on my side marker light
on the drivers side it IS old and brittle so im going to run a HOT screw into it on the benchthen use that and a washer until I get 2 replacements I FORGOT to take pics of the rear finished flares OOPS brain fartage
they DONT look Bad outside so ill probably just coat them like ive been doing on the wide ones
If you're using a properly fitting cartridge respirator mask with new cartridges, you should have been no worse for wear, breathing-wise. I don't spray any paint without a mask.
I always date my cartridges with a sharpie and store them in freezer bags when not being used (activated charcoal, helps them last longer once opened). Good idea to clean the mask frequently as well, you can get wicked sick from a filthy mask.
Proper cleaning and surface prep before refinishing should mitigate any road salt, etc.
Got my New Tires on Falken's at4w 30x9.5 on the original rims I Painted
ordered the correct paint match color for the jeep and waiting for it to do the original plastic Hub-Caps
and ill need to also paint the weight's now mounted on the rims
they seem to be a plastic coated over some type of weight
so im figuring ill tape them off , clean them with alcohol and pray paint them with some black rust-oleum i have
I LIKE the looks of them and the RIDE is very very smooth with the shocks theres no longer the pounding or feeling every little rough spot on the road
and My Girl has lost ALL of her Vibrations--OMG its no longer a ridged frame Harley
ill need to chalk them as soon as it dries out here ive set them at 30on the rear and 32on front, ive No back seat in it, and still awaiting my spare tire/rim
(i figure im about 70pds under overall weight on the rear)
as it had not shown up at the shop He didnt need the lower arm cam adjusters and went through a thorough alignment, told me the steering wheel is in alignment now (I was a half turn off on the wheel wen i drove it in) BUT to bring it back after 500miles and he would re-adjust it once it all settled out
he also gave me a shop 20 miles away they works on jeeps to go see if i wanted to sell my wide flares
when I got it home I washed it ,we had ice the night before and morning and they salted the roads
then i took of the rock rails/sliders AGAIN, I Dislike them even MORE now its lost its 4inch Heels, Still a pain in the crotch getting in and out at 65 im Not a flexible as i was years ago
waiting for my side of hood Black decal Naming My Jeep (There And Back Again) in fancy cursive script
ordered the correct paint match color for the jeep and waiting for it to do the original plastic Hub-Caps
and ill need to also paint the weight's now mounted on the rims
they seem to be a plastic coated over some type of weight
so im figuring ill tape them off , clean them with alcohol and pray paint them with some black rust-oleum i have
I LIKE the looks of them and the RIDE is very very smooth with the shocks theres no longer the pounding or feeling every little rough spot on the road
and My Girl has lost ALL of her Vibrations--OMG its no longer a ridged frame Harley
ill need to chalk them as soon as it dries out here ive set them at 30on the rear and 32on front, ive No back seat in it, and still awaiting my spare tire/rim
(i figure im about 70pds under overall weight on the rear)
as it had not shown up at the shop
He didnt need the lower arm cam adjusters and went through a thorough alignment, told me the steering wheel is in alignment now (I was a half turn off on the wheel wen i drove it in) BUT to bring it back after 500miles and he would re-adjust it once it all settled outhe also gave me a shop 20 miles away they works on jeeps to go see if i wanted to sell my wide flares
when I got it home I washed it ,we had ice the night before and morning and they salted the roads
then i took of the rock rails/sliders AGAIN, I Dislike them even MORE now its lost its 4inch Heels, Still a pain in the crotch getting in and out
at 65 im Not a flexible as i was years ago waiting for my side of hood Black decal Naming My Jeep (There And Back Again) in fancy cursive script
Looking good.Got my New Tires on Falken's at4w 30x9.5 on the original rims I Painted
at 65 im Not a flexible as i was years ago
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p.s. Thank God I'll only be 64 next Friday. I can't even talk myself into dropping down to 33s.
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