I need to swap out my battery before it leaves me stranded this winter, who here has swapped over to a group 24 from the 34? How much room is there really?
Anyone have a pic a group 24 in an 05-06?
Anyone have a pic a group 24 in an 05-06?
Group 34 vs Group 24 Battery on 2006 TJ
- Thread starter voodooridr
- Start date
Swapped to a group 24 marine last weekend - got the X2 Power which is a rebrand of the NSB/Odyssey marine version. Posted about it here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/battery-of-choice.33328/page-3#post-1006877
The 05-06 should be a wedge style holder which is simply drop in. Group 24 is 1" higher.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/battery-of-choice.33328/page-3#post-1006877
The 05-06 should be a wedge style holder which is simply drop in. Group 24 is 1" higher.
My opinion is you should get a group 34. They "seem" to be designed for high current starting loads which is what Jeeps really need. The 24 "generally" has a lower CCA rating even though it is a bigger battery. Nothing wrong with either, that's just the way I see it.
OP
That's one of the things I was wondering, the Odyssey group 24 extreme has 10 less CCA (850 vs 840) but 30 more minutes reserve (164 vs 134)
Regular winching, the 24 and 34/78 seem to be similar. Based on what I've read here, either will power a winch on its power.
I went with the Group 24 since I plan for more of an overland style camper with this Jeep, and eventually put in a small Dometic electric cooler. The extra capacity to feed the cooler is pretty nice, and the 18L Dometic fits the LJ trunk perfectly,
Also here in WA, there's a state ferry system which might see 1hr+ in between boats. Having a stereo to make the time go faster is a cool plus. Idling is frowned upon.
I think stock flooded battery is 700 or 750CCA, the compromise between 840 and 880CCA was worth it to me for the slightly longer runtime.
I went with the Group 24 since I plan for more of an overland style camper with this Jeep, and eventually put in a small Dometic electric cooler. The extra capacity to feed the cooler is pretty nice, and the 18L Dometic fits the LJ trunk perfectly,
Also here in WA, there's a state ferry system which might see 1hr+ in between boats. Having a stereo to make the time go faster is a cool plus. Idling is frowned upon.
I think stock flooded battery is 700 or 750CCA, the compromise between 840 and 880CCA was worth it to me for the slightly longer runtime.
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If you are powering a fridge then obviously the 24 seems like a better choice. If you aren't then I'd save the weight and get the 34.
Group 24 fits in any TJ with the wedge hold down with zero mods.
It has about 15% higher amp-hours and cranking amps, so the only downside is more weight. The exact capacity difference will depend upon the brand.
I went with a Group 24 as I'm rather abusive on the electrical system with engine off loads, winching, and frequent cold starting. I went with a Northstar AGM-24M. These are now rebranded as Odyssey batteries.
It has about 15% higher amp-hours and cranking amps, so the only downside is more weight. The exact capacity difference will depend upon the brand.
I went with a Group 24 as I'm rather abusive on the electrical system with engine off loads, winching, and frequent cold starting. I went with a Northstar AGM-24M. These are now rebranded as Odyssey batteries.
Weight difference is basically negligible... 49.5 for 34/78 vs 57.1 lbs for the 24 Marine. Difference of 7.6 lbs.
Couple of sessions in the gym will make up for that.
Couple of sessions in the gym will make up for that.
Leak free, greater depth of discharge, the design of the battery means that you can use it for high current power supply for more than a few seconds.
Starting batteries are designed to supply very high current for a short period of time, then be recharged. Winching is pretty hard on them.
guys, remember. Deep cycle batteries aren't starting batteries. Want the benefits of a deep cycle? run two batteries. A starting batt, and a deep cycle.
AGM batteries do have a few advantages over flooded cell lead-plate batteries.
First, they are fully sealed and the electrolyte is fully absorbed, so there is no leakage or off-gassing. Even if you were to break the case, you won't end up dumping battery acid all over the engine bay. They are also perfectly fine being mounted on their side or upside down, and present less of a hazard in a rollover (unless a short occurs).
Second, they are great at providing short and mid-length bursts of high amperage compared to lead-plate. For starting, this is usually a non-issue, thought the extra capacity does help in extreme cold. This mainly assists with heavy mid-length draws such as winching.
AGM batteries also have very low internal resistance, meaning they generate less heat and are actually more energy efficient when charging and discharging. This also means less voltage drop occurs when a draw does happen. So your winch will spin slightly faster under load and your starter will crank slightly faster.
A loaded winch can draw as much as 500 amps. Even if you rev your engine, a stock alternator only puts out 110 amps. The rest of the balance is made up by the battery. Running that load on a lead plate battery for more than a minute or so could generate enough heat to boil the electrolyte, leading to off-gassing and capacity loss.
The AGM is also faster to accept a charge, so the alternator is actually able to charge it faster, assuming the alternator was not at 100% capacity to begin with.
AGM batteries are also less prone to sulfation, and tend to have a very long service life. They're less sensitive to charging patterns (with the exception that low alternator charge voltages will shorten their life).
AGMs do also tend to have a few disadvantages. The first obviously is cost. They are a LOT more expensive. This is offset somewhat by a roughly double service life. The second is that they do not have the reserve capacity of a marine deep-cycle battery, though they usually have roughly the equivalent capacity of a lead-plate starter battery.
Lithium car batteries, specifically LiFePO batteries, outperform AGM batteries in just about every respect. But you can expect to pay 4x the cost of an AGM battery.
First, they are fully sealed and the electrolyte is fully absorbed, so there is no leakage or off-gassing. Even if you were to break the case, you won't end up dumping battery acid all over the engine bay. They are also perfectly fine being mounted on their side or upside down, and present less of a hazard in a rollover (unless a short occurs).
Second, they are great at providing short and mid-length bursts of high amperage compared to lead-plate. For starting, this is usually a non-issue, thought the extra capacity does help in extreme cold. This mainly assists with heavy mid-length draws such as winching.
AGM batteries also have very low internal resistance, meaning they generate less heat and are actually more energy efficient when charging and discharging. This also means less voltage drop occurs when a draw does happen. So your winch will spin slightly faster under load and your starter will crank slightly faster.
A loaded winch can draw as much as 500 amps. Even if you rev your engine, a stock alternator only puts out 110 amps. The rest of the balance is made up by the battery. Running that load on a lead plate battery for more than a minute or so could generate enough heat to boil the electrolyte, leading to off-gassing and capacity loss.
The AGM is also faster to accept a charge, so the alternator is actually able to charge it faster, assuming the alternator was not at 100% capacity to begin with.
AGM batteries are also less prone to sulfation, and tend to have a very long service life. They're less sensitive to charging patterns (with the exception that low alternator charge voltages will shorten their life).
AGMs do also tend to have a few disadvantages. The first obviously is cost. They are a LOT more expensive. This is offset somewhat by a roughly double service life. The second is that they do not have the reserve capacity of a marine deep-cycle battery, though they usually have roughly the equivalent capacity of a lead-plate starter battery.
Lithium car batteries, specifically LiFePO batteries, outperform AGM batteries in just about every respect. But you can expect to pay 4x the cost of an AGM battery.
Two reasons in my book, first vibration. I lost my factory battery due to the plates getting damaged off-road. Flooded cells are prone to vibration damage. If you are careful to air down and don't hit your skids hard this isn't an issue. The second reason I never really considered until Blaine mentioned it recently and that is corrosion from the acid on a flooded cell. It isn't an issue with a sealed AGM battery and after a few years it is nice not having to do so much repair and maintenance of the battery cables.
I can get a decent AGM easily for about $200, a marine AGM for about $130 and the cheapest flooded at Walmart is $130 so I don't understand your math.
Flooded cell batteries work great in cars and Jeeps that never go offroad. But once you get onto offroad trails that subject the battery to shocks and vibration they don't hold up. That's where their lead plates start breaking off and shorting cells out.
If you offroad, go with an AGM.
For the size question I stay with a Group 34.
Lead acid batteries
The newer AGM batteries are "dual purpose". The thin plates provide enough juice for starting, lights, and ignition - the thick plates still provide the power for deep cycle.
The difference is true deep cycle can discharge <50% and not have lifespan affected too much. Dual purpose deep cycle should only go down to 50% or so.
Not 100% true. Deep cycle batteries have thick glass plates to allow for fuller discharge. However, they can sandwich thin plates next to the thick ones to still provide energy for starting.
The newer AGM batteries are "dual purpose". The thin plates provide enough juice for starting, lights, and ignition - the thick plates still provide the power for deep cycle.
The difference is true deep cycle can discharge <50% and not have lifespan affected too much. Dual purpose deep cycle should only go down to 50% or so.
I clicked a link somewhere on this forum within the last 3 weeks or so that brought up a $350 battery and immediately closed the window, and I bought my last TJ battery in March of 2020 for around $100.
$350 vs $100 is 3.5x the cost, vs a 7-8 year life expectancy (in my experience) would be 25-28 years
obviously 18 months of covid inflation have changed that math, as well as the knowledge that I can get an AGM for barely more than half what I had thought.
this is a lot easier to swallow
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...up-24-marine-dual-purpose-battery/1006723_0_0
my battery is on it's last leg so I may go for this here soon.
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...up-24-marine-dual-purpose-battery/1006723_0_0
my battery is on it's last leg so I may go for this here soon.
@deadbeat son posted this battery in another thread on a similar topic if you are a club member. There's also the SuperStart at O'Reilly. They don't appear to be deep cycle or anything, just AGM with screw terminals.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
Here’s a link to the data sheet on the AGM Group 34M I’ve mentioned a few times.
It’s hard to argue with the cost of the Duracell labeled version available at Sam’s Club. I’m not a member, but a friend is, so I picked one up. I’m only a few months in, but all is well so far. The drawback is that the marine applications have a shorter warranty than the auto specific applications. It’s a gamble I was willing to take.