Halle's first car - ‘97 Sahara

__steve__

TJ Addict
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Minnesota USA
My daughter just turned 16, got her license, and her first car, a '97 Saraha that needs some love. This is what it looked like the day we got it home. This will be her daily driver. I'm crossing my fingers she doesn't take it off-roading yet :)

A3A5B084-B7DB-4C94-9A17-2C23E1223DB6.jpeg


This is our first Jeep. I didn't know anything about Jeeps when we bought this. After digging around on the forum and watching a lot of youtube videos for the last few weeks here is what I've learned so far.

It had a 4" Rough Country lift kit and 35 inch tires installed by previous owners. It doesn't appear any other modifications were done when the kit was installed. The axles are stock Dana 30 in the front and Dana 35 in the rear with 3.07 gears. It's a 4.0 with the 32RH 3 speed automatic transmission. The transfer case was dropped as part of the lift kit. The front trackbar in this kit is supposed to have a new hole drilled 3/4" toward center to adjust for the lift, that was not done. It is the stock trackbar hooked up to the stock mount locations and the front axle is off center. The transfer case linkage drop bracket was not installed when the kit was put on. The rear trackbar bracket that came with the kit was installed but only with the one bolt. The two other bolts that are supposed to be drilled and added are not there.

The frame has been patched multiple times. I wanted a professional's opinion on what to do with the frame so I took it to a 4 x 4 shop and had them look things over really well. They said it isn't in great shape but it will work for now. They patched the drivers side where the skid plate attaches, and said it may need more patching in the future.

The engine has a cold start knock which goes away after warming up. Once at temp it has a tick. I've learned that the tick is most likely lifters, but I worry the knock is rod or piston related. I changed the oil, using Valvoline High Milage Maxlife synthetic blend and a Wix filter. Right now my plan is to ignore the engine noise and focus on other things. If / when it blows I'll buy a reman and the tools I need and learn to swap it.

Pretty sure the heater core is leaking. It smells like antifreeze with the fan on. I ordered one from Performance Radiator and it arrived today. The shipping was super disappointing. It came in flimsy cardboard box with NO padding. The box was damaged, I think the part was slightly damaged as well. I plan to pull the dash and put it in sometime soon. I'm highly considering a full cooling system overhaul while I'm doing the heater core, but it was close to $600 bucks to get the parts recommended in the FAQ here and right now it runs rock solid in the middle of the temp gauge, so it isn't as high on my priority list as the steering.

The steering wanders pretty bad at high speeds. It doesn't wobble at all, but it wanders enough that it concerns me. At the 4 x 4 shop we decided to take the 35's it came with off and replace them with new 33" Falken Wildpeak AT3W 33x12.5R15's. I've got the PSI at 28 right now. They also recommended a new steering stabilizer as the existing one was shot. They were up front about that not being a fix but it was cheap and it needed it anyway. The new tires and lower pressure helped quite a bit but didn't resolve the issue. Against my better judgement, I adjusted the preload on the steering box pitman shaft an 1/8 of a turn. The box is leaking a bit anyway and if I shortened the life of it I'm OK with that I'll throw a remanufactured one in (I found a link on this forum to one on amazon that seems worth a try). It helped a bit but still high speeds wander. Oh, the 4 x 4 shop replaced the front driver side bearing while it was in as well as there was obvious play in the wheel.

So this week I find myself learning about steering components and geometry. I'm thinking I should get an adjustable trackbar since one wasn't put on with the lift. The stock trackbar doesn't seem to have a lot of play in it but an adjustable one will center my axle again and not having any mechanical experience yet beyond changing the oil and the speedometer gear, I don't trust my ability to judge where the play is. The drag link and tie rod are pretty easy to roll. I took video hoping to get some advice.



I've read the upgrade advice here about the Currie Currectlync and the Crown HD Steering kit. For a daily driver that stays on pavement almost all the time the Currectlync seems like a bit of overkill but reading some reviews about the Crown HD kit there are complaints about quality.

So first, do the videos make it look like i need a new steering system? If so, what adjustable trackbar, tie rod / drag link seems like the right fit for on-road drivability as the primary concern?

If you made it this far, my apologies for the book :)

TIA,
Steve
 
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Let's hope it goes better than it did the day my daughter got her license. Lost her water pump, kept pouring water into the car, eventually blew the head gasket, blah, blah, blah. That was a 3 week project to fix...
 
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Great first vehicle..(everyone remembers their first)
Not sure if you a good Dad or not as you know she'll fall in love with Jeeps and she'll be broke the rest of her life haha.
Is that a blower coming out of the bonnet (hood) ;)
 
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Have you read this ZJ Tie Rod Upgrade ?
JKS front track bar or Currie if in the budget.

I did find that one! This forum has had great information on every question I’ve searched for. I have a long holiday weekend so I ordered the equivalent parts from NAPA so I can pick them up tomorrow and spend the weekend doing it.

I had even ordered the JKS trackbar on amazon but switched it out for the Rough Country version I’m sure I’ll regret getting someday, but it can get here by Monday so I can wrap everything up.
 
Great first vehicle..(everyone remembers their first)
Not sure if you a good Dad or not as you know she'll fall in love with Jeeps and she'll be broke the rest of her life haha.
Is that a blower coming out of the bonnet (hood) ;)

My wife wants one too already 🤣

It’s just a vent the previous owner put in to help things cool down a bit.
 
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I’m finishing up the ZJ steering upgrade and looking at torque numbers I’ve found a few different sources.

The FSM seems to list two different sets of numbers? In the installation section it says 35 ft. lbs.:
00BB004F-85B6-458A-A805-5E920DAF50EF.jpeg


But a page later 55 ft. lbs.
96E13908-1D64-4B23-BA50-27F24692E605.jpeg


In the post for the ZJ upgrade I see numbers that seem to match the installation section in the FSM.

C3AC99EB-082E-4EAF-9B9B-7FDEEC5B496F.jpeg


Except for the drag link to tie rod where the FSM install lists it lower again:

5935306A-F6CF-46B1-9283-0D1BAF2F8186.jpeg


Before digging into this in more detail I tightened to 55 ft. lbs. at the knuckles and where the tie rod meets the drag link. The reason I started double checking is because the drag link to steering knuckle seemed too tight at 55, the cotter pin is above the castle nut and the boot seems pretty compressed.

EF6D73E5-18AC-48CB-BE97-673CB6D8DEB7.jpeg

Hoping someone can help this n00b out with what torque specs I should be using and what to do if I’ve over-torqued?

Thanks!
 
I’m finishing up the ZJ steering upgrade and looking at torque numbers I’ve found a few different sources.

The FSM seems to list two different sets of numbers? In the installation section it says 35 ft. lb
View attachment 176374

But a page later 55 ft. lbs.
View attachment 176377

In the post for the ZJ upgrade I see numbers that seem to match the installation section in the FSM.

View attachment 176378

Except for the drag link to tie rod where the FSM install lists it lower again:

View attachment 176379

Before digging into this in more detail I tightened to 55 ft. lbs. at the knuckles and where the tie rod meets the drag link. The reason I started double checking is because the drag link to steering knuckle seemed too tight at 55, the cotter pin is above the castle nut and the boot seems pretty compressed.

View attachment 176384
Hoping someone can help this n00b out with what torque specs I should be using and what to do if I’ve over-torqued?

Thanks!
55lbs is probably too much. It’s interesting because I just rebuilt the front end of my Camaro and the torque spec for tie rods on that was 35 ft.lb. That is the right number.
I agree, that boot is too compressed.
 
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Awesome! My son is the heir to my TJ, so long as he works towards it and learns as I do. Then I get to start over and hopefully learn from my mistakes!
 
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I certainly will know a lot better what to look for when I buy the next one.
Live and learn right! I consider myself fairly lucky on my purchase a while back. I wish I had known more, but I did alright. Just part of the experience, I see why they call them unicorns now 😂
 
#not_a_real_mechanic

Replaced the stock rear track bar and the lift bracket it was mounted to. Thought this would be an easy hour or two 😂

Spent a couple hours at least trying to get the frame side mounting bolt out before I gave up and cut it and went and bought a new one yesterday. OK, not so bad, the rest should be easy enough 🤣

The lift kit bracket that was installed by a previous owner was only fastened with one bolt. There were supposed to be holes drilled and two others installed but they weren’t. I knew that before starting, it was part of the reason I decided to ditch the bracket and put an adjustable one in. What I didn’t realize was how much that single bolt was bending the metal plate the flag nut sits behind. without a track bar or other spacer between the two plates it just didn’t have a lot of strength to it. This is what it looked like after me trying to pry and pound it back for over an hour.

55D7D661-9CBC-454B-B069-F5C08A9B7363.jpeg


It was still too bent in to get the track bar bushing to fit in there at this point. Ok, head to the store and rent this, maybe it will help bend things back out.

E4785AD3-73FD-4023-A543-45B03B095B7B.jpeg


Nope, the jaws didn’t have the oomph. Backup plan? 🤔

00936E22-39F2-4296-8BB5-C5B4837B99AE.jpeg


Wrenching on this actually worked to get enough space, but...

104FDB2C-DB62-463A-B4EE-E14894936EBE.jpeg


The bolt didn’t like it. So, more extra work to cut that out 🤪

Finally got it all put back together. 2 trips to the store (30 min drive) and about 8 hours of wrenching. Really glad I ditched the bracket though. It was flexing when torqued with just the one bolt and the bending metal.

Good times.
 
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steering wander​

Jeep still seems to wander more than I like. It is pretty stable going down the road when keeping the gas constant, but it seems to pull one direction when giving it gas and the other when letting off. Reading through threads it sounds like that is typically a rear axle issue.

Relevant info:
  • 4" Rough Country lift installed by PO, still seems fairly new. Lift kit included shocks, springs, sway bars links, lower control arms, transfer case drop spacers, and a rear track bar lift bracket. No drop pitman arm, not adjustable control arms, no adjustable track bars.
Recent steering / suspension work:
  • Replaced stock track bars (front and rear) with Rough Country (i know i know) adjustable track bars
  • 4x4 shop put in a new bearing on front drivers side
  • Finished a ZJ Tie Rod Upgrade
  • Aligned myself, toe in about 1/8", measured to tires, still need to pick up square aluminum tubing
  • New 33" tires inflated at about 27 pounds
  • Ever so slightly adjusted the preload on the steering box (plan to replace box soon anyway as it's leaking pretty bad)

Some of the threads I've read about this:

https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/jeep-wandering-when-off-the-gas-pedal.1124218/https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f31...elerating-right-when-letting-off-gas-1116992/https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/right-when-i-hit-gas-left-when-i-let-off-1028722/
Sounds like it would be a good idea to check rear upper control arm bushings. I haven't inspected them closely but it wouldn't surprise me if they are the originals. The lower control arms were replaced with the lift kit and the bushings seemed like they were in good shape but I haven't really inspected them either. I had hoped the rear trackbar was the issue as the bracket being mounted with just the one bolt seemed like it would flex a bit under load, but when I replaced that last weekend (see previous post) it didn't help much.

I'd go check all that out right now, but I hate winter and it's snowing. Any other ideas would be great, thanks!
 
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steering wander​

Jeep still seems to wander more than I like. It is pretty stable going down the road when keeping the gas constant, but it seems to pull one direction when giving it gas and the other when letting off. Reading through threads it sounds like that is typically a rear axle issue.

Relevant info:
  • 4" Rough Country lift installed by PO, still seems fairly new. Lift kit included shocks, springs, sway bars links, lower control arms, transfer case drop spacers, and a rear track bar lift bracket. No drop pitman arm, not adjustable control arms, no adjustable track bars.
Recent steering / suspension work:
  • Replaced stock track bars (front and rear) with Rough Country (i know i know) adjustable track bars
  • 4x4 shop put in a new ball joint on front drivers side
  • Finished a ZJ Tie Rod Upgrade
  • Aligned myself, toe in about 1/8", measured to tires, still need to pick up square aluminum tubing
  • New 33" tires inflated at about 27 pounds
  • Ever so slightly adjusted the preload on the steering box (plan to replace box soon anyway as it's leaking pretty bad)

Some of the threads I've read about this:

https://Wrangler Forum/threads/jeep-wandering-when-off-the-gas-pedal.1124218/https://Jeep Forum/forum/f310/pulls-left-when-accelerating-right-when-letting-off-gas-1116992/https://Jeep Forum/forum/f310/right-when-i-hit-gas-left-when-i-let-off-1028722/
Sounds like it would be a good idea to check rear upper control arm bushings. I haven't inspected them closely but it wouldn't surprise me if they are the originals. The lower control arms were replaced with the lift kit and the bushings seemed like they were in good shape but I haven't really inspected them either. I had hoped the rear trackbar was the issue as the bracket being mounted with just the one bolt seemed like it would flex a bit under load, but when I replaced that last weekend (see previous post) it didn't help much.

I'd go check all that out right now, but I hate winter and it's snowing. Any other ideas would be great, thanks!
For me when alignment was off I had a fighting side to side not a pull to one side.

Have you confirmed that the axles are squared up?
 
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