I'm digging into a Eaton e locker install and want to make sure I'm setting it up correctly. The instructions don't specify whether the shims go between the carrier and bearings, or if they can go outboard of the bearings?
Has anyone installed an Eaton e-Locker?
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MountaineerTom
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gasiorv
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On my Dana 44 I put them outbd of the bearings because that was the way the stock locker was installed. But I don't think it would matter either way. Outbd you don't need set up bearings but it is a pain to pound in the final shim stack if you have some thin shims. Inbd is harder to set up but once you got it set up it sure is easier to install when they are inbd.
I installed one in a Dana 30 front axle. Shims went underneath the carrier bearings. I made a set of set up bearings to help in getting the backlash correct.
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...control/Eaton-differentials-owners-manual.pdf
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...control/Eaton-differentials-owners-manual.pdf
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gasiorv
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It may also depend on what shims came in your install kit. I think the inbd shims and outbd shims are different because they ride against different surfaces. I have a drawer full of both but not close enough to check.
Working with a HP30. I'm asking because the stock shims were between the bearing and carrier. However, I saw the video @hosejockey61 did with a HP 30 and ARB. He had his shims outside of the bearingd
I’ve done front (30) and rear (35) e-lockers. The shims are outside the bearing on the 35 and inside the bearing on the 30. For the 30, I bought a 2nd set of carrier bearings and made set up bearings. You are doing a 30 spline e-locker as I recall. Mine has 27 spline shafts but I believe both Dana 30 e-lockers use the super 30 bearings with correspondingly larger inner diameter shims.
For the ARB, I think the shims need to be outside the bearings because of the air passage. Not so with the e-locker.
For the ARB, I think the shims need to be outside the bearings because of the air passage. Not so with the e-locker.
I bought extra bearings, to make set up bearings. Started on making them yesterday, but my carbide bit set is dull,so I had to order a new set. Did you order a new oil baffle and install that? That was the one part I didn't have on hand and the stock one was destroyed when I removed the inner bearing race.
Not in my case because I didn’t need to touch the pinion for that one. My gears were pretty new, quiet and had a good pattern. Also the preload was correct for a used set up.
A cylindrical flap wheel similar to this:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDQWZG0/?tag=wranglerorg-20)
on a die grinder worked well for me making the set up bearings.
A cylindrical flap wheel similar to this:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDQWZG0/?tag=wranglerorg-20)
on a die grinder worked well for me making the set up bearings.
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Eaton website specifies outboard shims for 19818-020 and 19819-020, which are both for the Dana 30. Never installed one myself, but will be doing so soon.
In the stock application the shims can be found under the bearings in the Dana 30. When going to an ARB, the shims must go to the outside of the bearings. The seal housing side will have some if not all shims between the bearing race and seal housing. That's where you have to use the ARB specific shims and master shim.
different axles but i had to move shims to the outside when i regeared as well...actually easier to make changes not having to mess with the bearings.
case spreader works best, but i had luck driving that last shim home. i chose a thicker shim to not deform it and needed a stack to compensate for a bit of the cone protruding the cup, you don't wanna try and push a shim over that. i had to be careful not to fold shims when tapping that last 1 in there so the thinnest shims went against the carrier leaving the thickest i could beside the 1 to be tapped into place.
case spreader works best, but i had luck driving that last shim home. i chose a thicker shim to not deform it and needed a stack to compensate for a bit of the cone protruding the cup, you don't wanna try and push a shim over that. i had to be careful not to fold shims when tapping that last 1 in there so the thinnest shims went against the carrier leaving the thickest i could beside the 1 to be tapped into place.
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1st time ever using this tool to remove the Carrier bearings. Saying it's unbelievably easy to remove them with it is an understatement!
