Has anyone taken all the body mount bolts out at once to install a body lift?

Mike_H

Mike_H

autos are better - WRWD508
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
12,276
Location
Grand Rapids, MI, United States
I'm installing a JKS 1.25" body lift on my Rubicon, along with my lift. Since my Rubi is a salty Girl, I broke all four rear shock mount bolts, and a couple of the body mount bolt snapped. Reading through my body lift instructions, they say to install one side at a time, so that the body doesn't move in relation to the frame. Ok, makes sense.

HOWEVER...It sure would be easier to take them all out and lift my body up about 4 inches in my case, in order to deal with the broken studs. Has anyone done this? I know @mrblaine has pulled a tub off, and put it back on (the pictures show it in his Bad Ass LJ build). What is the best way to do it, considering I don't have a lift?

One other thing...My body mounts are kinda nasty. The salt has really taken its toll on the steel parts that the rubber is overmolded too. Anyone know if I can get them individually, or do I have to buy a whole set?
 
Ranger_b0b said:
I'm installing a JKS 1.25" body lift on my Rubicon, along with my lift. Since my Rubi is a salty Girl, I broke all four rear shock mount bolts, and a couple of the body mount bolt snapped. Reading through my body lift instructions, they say to install one side at a time, so that the body doesn't move in relation to the frame. Ok, makes sense.

HOWEVER...It sure would be easier to take them all out and lift my body up about 4 inches in my case, in order to deal with the broken studs. Has anyone done this? I know @mrblaine has pulled a tub off, and put it back on (the pictures show it in his Bad Ass LJ build). What is the best way to do it, considering I don't have a lift?

One other thing...My body mounts are kinda nasty. The salt has really taken its toll on the steel parts that the rubber is overmolded too. Anyone know if I can get them individually, or do I have to buy a whole set?
Click to expand...
Yes, you can pull all of them at the same time. The one that will bite you hard is the one under the grill. The entire body mount needs to be removed if you plan to lift the rear. We do it by loosening the two in front of the doors but leaving the bolts in a few threads, and then removing the one under the grill completely. If you don't, when you lift the back, it will bend the front fenders right over the tires. Also if you pull the mount under the grill, take the bolts out of the fan shroud unless you don't care if it gets broken and it will when you jack up the back. We put 3" blocks of steel round bar on the rear mounts with the lift puck in place to hold up the back of the tub when we are working back there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: derekmac, Chris and Mike_H
Thanks. I've already pulled the fenders off and removed the grill mount, due to other rust repair and repainting. I was thinking that leaving the front two mounts in (just ahead of the doors) like you mentioned, but unfortunately, the drivers side is one of the broken studs...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Yes, you can get the body mounts individually. I can’t seem to find them on Amazon right now, but I got two in December, about $4 each
 
Ranger_b0b said:
I found them ranging from 24 to 34 each!
Click to expand...
$5 each from daveys.. :)

A01EE6F0-4E83-4BA1-8564-68F5C9083656.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mike_H
So just to bring closure here...I was able to remove half of my body mounting bolts at a time, get my work done, and not lose the position of the body. I started on the Driver's side. My fenders are off, and heeding Mr. Blaine's warning about the grill mount, I removed that as well. I loosened all the mounts on the passenger side, until there were only a few threads engaged. I removed ALL the mounts on the drivers side (5 of them) I jacked that side up until it bound (got about 4 inches of lift) and blocked it. The broken bolts were both on the drivers side, so that part was nice...This is the front one. It was REALLY stuck. Had to weld the nut on a couple times, but finally got it.

AbTm4rualtBtWFTjlSgg17N-tjTVUxRSc86U4OPQKujs2N2k594E_IPFw5CE_6WPAMrNRC0WUdxP8h3dWKL=w518-h919-no.jpg
ZCwiSNavVoIO9ZPi0NYS3R3k9jzgl3lspkE0TlDzlZ97pUOfKKOkjeB1AGqYPKLEfcaSYBWfEu0kCHs8A1Q=w518-h919-no.jpg



The rear most mount was a real headscratcher. The nut is fully boxed in a cross member...Its also a cage nut, so it moves around. Drilling it would have been tough, since the bolt broke inside the nut...Anyway, I ended up cutting the crossmember and cage open to remove the nut and bolt stud combo.

jd8Hzk3RzIg7wccGqoyylLFs7bPm_gZ0Hi7mEy1RFsYEdf6dFNw-EM9V9ab21ObVqAq-pRCTWouEJb1yaS=w1634-h919-no.jpg





9kIiKnWlOcuXULf-xi_n-Xd3nLeWdSYdyAVNKayQYwhahHyUda3onYDmVZkWkuZ1ccZk4wQ4FoHp_KEhS7=w1634-h919-no.jpg


After those two bolts were removed, I lowered the body back down, installed the front drivers side mount and removed all the passenger side mounts, save for the first one. Now I have the jeep raised off the rear crossmembers, and sitting on 2 x 4's on the rear most mount point along the rocker...
ppd5vwd0tNDen4TRAL0BnIYFoS9sKm_e6wSmGZVW6VxxuhNzuJ_YoCcQY3J8pgiWs4BdjKwJzNoDjhTuZ32=w518-h919-no.jpg


I can access everything I need to, some of its tight, but doable. Thanks everyone (esp @mrblaine ) for the help!
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: Mikester86, jeep_boss and JamesAndTheSahara
Good work. And lots of it! You have a lot more drive than I do. If I had to do all that to install a BL, I would struggle with the proposition. Great job!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Phungki and JamesAndTheSahara
JMT said:
Good work. And lots of it! You have a lot more drive than I do. If I had to do all that to install a BL, I would struggle with the proposition. Great job!
Click to expand...
Its all part of working on a rust belt vehicle. If I let a little thing like a stuck bolt detract me from doing what I want, I would drive a much more boring vehicle. Besides, if I didn't have the TJ project, I'd just sit on my ass and watch TV all winter...that is NO fun
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCsTJ, bobthetj03, jeep_boss and 2 others
Ranger_b0b said:
So just to bring closure here...I was able to remove half of my body mounting bolts at a time, get my work done, and not lose the position of the body. I started on the Driver's side. My fenders are off, and heeding Mr. Blaine's warning about the grill mount, I removed that as well. I loosened all the mounts on the passenger side, until there were only a few threads engaged. I removed ALL the mounts on the drivers side (5 of them) I jacked that side up until it bound (got about 4 inches of lift) and blocked it. The broken bolts were both on the drivers side, so that part was nice...This is the front one. It was REALLY stuck. Had to weld the nut on a couple times, but finally got it.

View attachment 32428View attachment 32429


The rear most mount was a real headscratcher. The nut is fully boxed in a cross member...Its also a cage nut, so it moves around. Drilling it would have been tough, since the bolt broke inside the nut...Anyway, I ended up cutting the crossmember and cage open to remove the nut and bolt stud combo.

View attachment 32430




View attachment 32431

After those two bolts were removed, I lowered the body back down, installed the front drivers side mount and removed all the passenger side mounts, save for the first one. Now I have the jeep raised off the rear crossmembers, and sitting on 2 x 4's on the rear most mount point along the rocker...
View attachment 32432

I can access everything I need to, some of its tight, but doable. Thanks everyone (esp @mrblaine ) for the help!
Click to expand...
You keep us motivated! Really nice work bud, get some nice zinc bolts in there!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeep_boss and Mike_H
Ranger_b0b said:
Its all part of working on a rust belt vehicle. If I let a little thing like a stuck bolt detract me from doing what I want, I would drive a much more boring vehicle. Besides, if I didn't have the TJ project, I'd just sit on my ass and watch TV all winter...that is NO fun
Click to expand...
Well, I have to agree with you there, that would be BORING. I guess I would still tinker...
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesAndTheSahara
Ranger_b0b said:
I found them ranging from 24 to 34 each!
Click to expand...
JamesAndTheSahara said:
You keep us motivated! Really nice work bud, get some nice zinc bolts in there!
Click to expand...

As much as I despise the term, I can't help but think that my Jeep is acquiring more and more "bling" (shiny new zinc plated bolts) with each repair / upgrade I do.

Great job!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mike_H and JamesAndTheSahara
Ranger_b0b said:
I found them ranging from 24 to 34 each!
Click to expand...
Don't know why I didn't get a notification for this but DO NOT buy the Dorman Body mounts before you check with me on the part numbers. They have a giant flaw in the early one in that they have mixed up the rear stem with the other rubber parts and they do not work together.
 
mrblaine said:
Don't know why I didn't get a notification for this but DO NOT buy the Dorman Body mounts before you check with me on the part numbers. They have a giant flaw in the early one in that they have mixed up the rear stem with the other rubber parts and they do not work together.
Click to expand...

10-4. It really only looks like I need to replace one of them...
20180217_120447.jpg

The rest are crusty, but intact. Unless there is some magic sauce I'm missing out on with new ones, I'll just reuse what I have.
 
Top Bottom