Has anyone used Newcomer Racing to build a 4.0 stroker?

I agree with @Paul Ruggles except tuning. I disagree with only leaving 3% on the table with out a tune. ALL of our Jeeps are hobbled by low timing from the factory. Fueling is not the biggest problem. I believe the fueling leaves 3% and another 6 to 10% with timing depending on 87 to 93 octane. This assumes the engine is is built correctly.
 
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On the subject of heat control do they make white exhaust wrap? According to physics something white not only absorbs less heat but more importantly it radiates less heat than black, all else being equal. Not sure if it's something you've looked into but it might help.

I think highly polished surfaces also radiate less heat. In my mind that's why it's hard to get a good temperature reading on a shiny surface with an IR/thermal camera. You have to put something that is a good thermal emitter in contact with the shiny surface so that the heat is conducted through that and then radiated. This second paragraph I'm not entirely sure about I'm just speculating. But the first paragraph has Science™ to back it up!

I guess if someone really wanted to test this they could take four identical pieces of steel. Leave one as is, polish one, paint one black, and paint one white (using the same kind of paint). Then heat them all up in an oven to the same temperature. Take them out and let them sit on a thermal insulator in the same way for a minute or however long it takes to not burn yourself. Then touch them and see which one feels most hot--that's the one that will have radiated the least heat.
 
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On the subject of heat control do they make white exhaust wrap? According to physics something white not only absorbs less heat but more importantly it radiates less heat than black, all else being equal. Not sure if it's something you've looked into but it might help.

I think highly polished surfaces also radiate less heat. In my mind that's why it's hard to get a good temperature reading on a shiny surface with an IR/thermal camera.
I don't know that I will dig into it very far to understand one way or the other but I'm pretty sure that insulation doesn't care what color it is.

If we were dealing with radiant heat from something like the sun, I believe color comes into play.

That insulation is also "sealed" per the company recommendation with their header wrap spray paint to stop the fuzzies if nothing else. I also didn't want it to absorb as much water and hasten the exhaust pipe corrosion.
 
On the subject of heat control do they make white exhaust wrap? According to physics something white not only absorbs less heat but more importantly it radiates less heat than black, all else being equal. Not sure if it's something you've looked into but it might help.

I think highly polished surfaces also radiate less heat. In my mind that's why it's hard to get a good temperature reading on a shiny surface with an IR/thermal camera. You have to put something that is a good thermal emitter in contact with the shiny surface so that the heat is conducted through that and then radiated. This second paragraph I'm not entirely sure about I'm just speculating. But the first paragraph has Science™ to back it up!

I guess if someone really wanted to test this they could take four identical pieces of steel. Leave one as is, polish one, paint one black, and paint one white (using the same kind of paint). Then heat them all up in an oven to the same temperature. Take them out and let them sit on a thermal insulator in the same way for a minute or however long it takes to not burn yourself. Then touch them and see which one feels most hot--that's the one that will have radiated the least heat.
White may heat up more slowly, but it also cools down more slowly.
 
The reason we are doing a stroker on this one is to avoid the cost of the V8 swap. That and to try and sneak it past the smog stations. I'm being promised over 300hp and closer to 325 with a high level of reliability. We'll know shortly if that is true.

Do you have the HP/Torque curve to share? I'm always interested in the 2K RPM torque. That seems to be where stock 4.0 is crippled and gets put there often by the 42RLE.

Have you found a JK transmission yet? I still think thats the ticket to save the 4.0.
 
I don't know that I will dig into it very far to understand one way or the other but I'm pretty sure that insulation doesn't care what color it is.

If we were dealing with radiant heat from something like the sun, I believe color comes into play.

That insulation is also "sealed" per the company recommendation with their header wrap spray paint to stop the fuzzies if nothing else. I also didn't want it to absorb as much water and hasten the exhaust pipe corrosion.

It sounds like it's not worth worrying about.

Thermal conduction doesn't care about color. And yes a black piece of steel will get hotter faster in the sun than a white piece because it's absorbing more energy.

But the surprising thing is that color does make a difference in radiating heat.

HOWEVER, I'm learning as I type this that color in the visible spectrum doesn't really matter--what matters is "color" in the infrared spectrum. Technically it's called "thermal emissivity". You want a surface treatment that has low thermal emissivity. Here's an interesting list of emissivities for common surfaces (lower is better for our application).

And of course just adding more insulation helps because less energy gets to the surface.

So I suppose the ideal would be a thick layer of insulation with a highly polished silver foil surface. Maybe more practical would be aluminum foil instead of silver.

But again it sounds like it's not worth worrying about :)

White may heat up more slowly, but it also cools down more slowly.

I think making the exhaust cool down more slowly would have two benefits: less heat goes into stuff around it; and exhaust gases would be hotter for longer which increases exhaust velocity.
 
Do you have the HP/Torque curve to share? I'm always interested in the 2K RPM torque. That seems to be where stock 4.0 is crippled and gets put there often by the 42RLE.

Have you found a JK transmission yet? I still think thats the ticket to save the 4.0.
I don't have any curves to share since I don't know or care to know. If someone comes to me and asks me to solve a problem like "make my suspension better", I don't go into any numbers since they just want me to solve a problem and give them the solution. I'm the same way. I trust the folks I tasked with the job and they should be able to give me a solution to my problem and I'm not going to ask for or get any number from them other than the HP I am being promised.

When it is done I will know if it did what I asked or if we need to do something different.

No trans yet.
 
It sounds like it's not worth worrying about.

Thermal conduction doesn't care about color. And yes a black piece of steel will get hotter faster in the sun than a white piece because it's absorbing more energy.

But the surprising thing is that color does make a difference in radiating heat.

HOWEVER, I'm learning as I type this that color in the visible spectrum doesn't really matter--what matters is "color" in the infrared spectrum. Technically it's called "thermal emissivity". You want a surface treatment that has low thermal emissivity. Here's an interesting list of emissivities for common surfaces (lower is better for our application).

And of course just adding more insulation helps because less energy gets to the surface.

So I suppose the ideal would be a thick layer of insulation with a highly polished silver foil surface. Maybe more practical would be aluminum foil instead of silver.

But again it sounds like it's not worth worrying about :)



I think making the exhaust cool down more slowly would have two benefits: less heat goes into stuff around it; and exhaust gases would be hotter for longer which increases exhaust velocity.

It comes down to how much heat control we're going to get. The biggest changes will come from putting in reflective shields, and any thermal insulation. If we're going into the nuances of the colour of the insulation, we have to also consider what type of paint/dye is being used. But at that point, the decisions will lead to such small changes that it's just easier to look somewhere else. Or just throw on another layer.
 
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Golen engines basic stroker burns 89 octane to achieve the advertised hp and tq numbers. I really would like the cummins but that is a lot of coin and the stroker could be swapped in much more quickly.
I used to have an 83 CJ5 that I bought brand new when I graduated high school, over the years of abuse the 6 finally failed so I swapped in a small block chevy, brand new 350, four bolt main with a quadrajet carb, backed bya T18 four speed from an F350. It is still running to this day, 25 years later, my brother has it now. Point being, no computer, no cruise control, just a bare bones jeep, and it still burns 87 octane, gets about 22 mpg, and will chirp 36” tires with 4:10 gears. That swap was pretty easy, mainly due to no computer and all the problems to be solved were easy to understand (within my simple mind’s grasp) mechanical things. My LJ, with it’s computer and overly complex wiring harness, etc. is, I fear, beyond my simplistic understanding......
 
Yeah, I saw that the other day. Even if you about for a friendly dyno with no accessories, that's impressive. I chalk most of it up to the head and revving it to 6k+ rpm.
 
Pushing anything that far out of the original design envelope invites reliability issues, it is pretty freak'n cool though.... I have contacted Newcomer and they are within $500-1,000 of Golen, the difference though is the warranty. Golen has a 3 year unlimited milage, Newcomer is 12 month 12,000 mile...... I would think that most issues would appear within the 12,000 miles but.........
 
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Has he said what the issue is? My skillet may be of help here...
Skillet?
No, I honestly do not think he has tried to figure it out.
Where the issue comes from as far as I am concerned is the dollar amount. Either a Newcomer or a Golen will run you around $10,000 (that is the engine and all new cooling system, power steering stuff, alternator, etc.). That leave $10,000 (assuming one has set aside the $20,000 for the diesel conversion) to get Savvyed up (mid arm, all aluminum armor, etc.)..... Or just a butt load of gasoline to go wheeling and camping with......
 
Skillet?
No, I honestly do not think he has tried to figure it out.
Where the issue comes from as far as I am concerned is the dollar amount. Either a Newcomer or a Golen will run you around $10,000 (that is the engine and all new cooling system, power steering stuff, alternator, etc.). That leave $10,000 (assuming one has set aside the $20,000 for the diesel conversion) to get Savvyed up (mid arm, all aluminum armor, etc.)..... Or just a butt load of gasoline to go wheeling and camping with......
Skillset auto corrected to skillet. I do embedded software. If it's something that needs to talk to the CAN bus that's why I said I may be of help.
 
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It sounds like it's not worth worrying about.

Thermal conduction doesn't care about color. And yes a black piece of steel will get hotter faster in the sun than a white piece because it's absorbing more energy.

But the surprising thing is that color does make a difference in radiating heat.

HOWEVER, I'm learning as I type this that color in the visible spectrum doesn't really matter--what matters is "color" in the infrared spectrum. Technically it's called "thermal emissivity". You want a surface treatment that has low thermal emissivity. Here's an interesting list of emissivities for common surfaces (lower is better for our application).

And of course just adding more insulation helps because less energy gets to the surface.

So I suppose the ideal would be a thick layer of insulation with a highly polished silver foil surface. Maybe more practical would be aluminum foil instead of silver.

But again it sounds like it's not worth worrying about :)



I think making the exhaust cool down more slowly would have two benefits: less heat goes into stuff around it; and exhaust gases would be hotter for longer which increases exhaust velocity.
For the wraps the color is not as important as the materials used. On surfaces around the heat sources, reflective materials makes better use of heat control(ie. wrapped exhaust headers near wiring, starters, oil sumps, firewall, wiring) the material/surfaces that need to keep cooler should be covered in reflective heat shielding.
 
We are fixing to do a stroker in one of the builds we did. Projected installed cost at this point is around the cost of parts for a low mileage V8.

Now, lots of folks are going to jump on that but we have a set way of doing things that drive the cost of a V8 swap way up. We don't sacrifice uptravel. We don't skimp on heat control or exhaust. The exhaust installed will cost most folks the same as a stroker sitting on a pallet so you can't really go by how we do things.

How did the stroker turn out?