There may already be a discussion about this but, to be honest, I’m too lazy to look…lol!! I know that Jeeps don’t drive like a sports car but, driving my jeep keeps you on your toes. I’ve had the jeep for about 5yrs now and have done a ton of suspension work to it because I’ve always thought it could handle better. The thing that I did today has made the greatest improvement to the handling. I removed the front driveshaft for the heck of it and now it drives and handles the way I think it should. I was getting a lot of pull and not one way specifically. I always had to be ready for it to go wherever it felt like and I was just along to counter steer. And, it tended to get a small amount of bump steer. It’s all gone now. If anybody has any idea or even a guess on why the front driveshaft would be creating these issues, I’d greatly appreciate your thought. Btw, the universals aren’t bad. I checked them prior to removing the shaft and inspected them even closer after the shaft was removed. The jeep does have a 3.5” lift on 33’s. It was to the alignment shop after the suspension install. Pinion angles have been checked by the shop , myself, and a friend. Nothing made as noticeable a difference in the handling as removing the shaft did. As I said, any thoughts will be appreciated. Thx
Maybe your transfer case shifter is out of adjustment and you're really driving around in 4Hi and not 2Hi. The front driveshaft is not driven by the transfer case when you're in 2Hi so removing it wouldn't have an effect if you're truly in 2Hi (2wd).
Not quite freely but yes if the driveshaft is disconnected. Assuming you're talking about the front yoke on the transfer case and not the front axle pinion yoke which will not turn.
If you have actually been in 4WD all this time, I would have expected the tires to wear pretty fast. Have they?
I would think the 4wd indicator light in the cluster would be on if in 4wd even with the shifter is out of adjustment. If the light is working.
Lots of them out there not working. I had my 99 for several months without realizing there was supposed to be a light.
I agree with the premise that it sounds like it's driving the front shaft. The mode fork gets pushed into 4w by the sector plate but back into 2 by a spring. So even if the linkage is ok, it could theoretically be internal. But regardless,you should be able to spin the front output by hand if 4x4 isn't engaged.
Negative on it being in 4w. The yoke spins freely so, it’s definitely in 2hi. Also, the tires don’t wear fast. I’m lost. I’m a mechanic by trade and this has me stumped. I know enough to stroke a 4.0 to a 4.6 but, can’t figure this out…lmao. I’m going to spring for an adams frt shaft. That’s what my rear one is. Maybe there’s something up with the stock shaft like out of balance or something since I was getting some vibes when it was installed. Although, I have mixed opinions about adams shafts. The run out on the rear shaft is terrible. I built my own rear shaft to get me by until the adams shaft came and, my homemade shaft has by far less run out. Thanks for all the responses. Very much appreciated.
Are you running an open diff in the front, or some type of locker or limited slip?
Krusty_tub
Member
X2, a bad/seized CV aka DC double-cardan joint at the rear of the driveshaft could be binding and causing that problem. I know you said you checked the u-joints but check the CV joint for issues.
Or if your your buddy got aggressive with the press after you told him "hey, don't get too aggressive with the press" and he's all "don't worry bro I'm not going to get aggressive with the press."
Narrator: he got very aggressive with the press.
My dude bent the ears on one of the axle shafts and as a result one of the u-joint axes was kindof bound up. It handled like the poo-poo until I replaced it. I can't help but wonder if there is some sort of interplay with the axles while the DS is connected.
There is. 3 points need to turn freely. If you lock down the driveshaft, then the right and left sides need to turn easily. If you lock down one side, then the other side and the pinion need to turn freely. So on and so forth.
It is possible that there is a very rough double cardan joint at the t-case which hasn't failed yet but is very stiff to move. That could add some funkiness to the wheel ends and imitate being in 4 wheel drive.
What needs to happen is all 5 u-joints in the front need to be checked for easy movement and go from there.
I know when I had a lunch box locker in the front of my samurai it was not good on road when in 4wd. Do you have an open front diff? If one side axle or unit bearing is a bit stiff I wonder if it would be enough to cause an auto locker to engage which could cause weird handling. When they lock and unlock it can make a rig have a mind of its own. Just a thought. You will need to raise the front and spin everything to check for free movement. Do this with wheels straight and turned both directions. Take a good look at that front shaft while it’s out too.
I know when I installed my hub kit it made my Jeep drive better. Not handling but just smoother/more free driving.
I know when I installed my hub kit it made my Jeep drive better. Not handling but just smoother/more free driving.
Krusty_tub
Member
Tighter means less likely to come apart, right?
Yup. More tighter is more gooder!!!!!
Pro Tip- The retaining clips on the inner groove of u-joint caps in axle shafts do not do what folks think they do. Their #1 function is to center the cross between the yoke ears.
Remember, I rarely state something like that I can't prove.
No locker but, odd this was asked because I was just thinking if I shouldn’t be looking at the differential. My rear diff sh*t the bed and it acted like a locker. Maybe the same has happened to the frt diff. I did notice a hop in a tight turn as though it was in 4wd even though the frt shaft is removed.
Also, I’ve gone over the frt shaft and all accompanied u-joints. None tight or sloppy. Seem perfect to me.