Headlight Switch

[B1Toad]

Finished my Toyota H4 install and my headlight switch gave up the ghost! I can only get the headlights and parking lights to stay on if I tilt the know a certain way. The plug on the bottom is tight and makes no difference if I wiggle it, seems to be internal to the switch. What's the best replacement? Mopar? https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par...ra1=&extra2=&filter=()&location=pd:00i66926,1

 

[B1Toad]

Went ahead and ordered the Mopar. Soon I'll have a new Jeep, one part at a time. At least TJ parts are pretty cheap compared to some other vehicles. I honestly thought a Mopar switch was going to be $200.

 

[CreepinDeth]

Does your new Toyota headlight setup draw the same power as the old OEM or more?? May wanna consider a relay on the headlight circuit. Your new switch will live longer

 

[B1Toad]

Does your new Toyota headlight setup draw the same power as the old OEM or more?? May wanna consider a relay on the headlight circuit. Your new switch will live longer

I'm using the Toyota harness with the included relays, so the only load on the switch (besides parking lamps and dash illumination) is the relays themselves which should not total over 400ma. My headlights were cheap LEDs from the PO, not sure what the draw was. They worked fine last time I used them but that was about 3 months ago. I do know that on low voltage a lack of current can make for an iffy connection, I've seen that on 12 volt landscape fixtures so maybe there is less current draw now. I also know that more current can be harder to pass on a bad connection so that could be it too.

Pretty sure the new switch will take care of it, just a strange coincidence it gave out right when I changed the lights, or maybe it didn't, like I said I haven't used the headlights for 3 months.

 

[macleanflood]

Had something similar happen when I body and tub swapped my Jeep... didn't have one of the harnesses fully seated down below the switch.

I wonder if you have a ground issue and not a headlight switch issue.

-Mac

 

[B1Toad]

Had something similar happen when I body and tub swapped my Jeep... didn't have one of the harnesses fully seated down below the switch.

I wonder if you have a ground issue and not a headlight switch issue.

-Mac

I don't think so, the dash lights work without a problem, the parking lights and headlights only work if I tilt the rod that goes into the switch a certain way. I thought about a bad ground and checked/wiggled my ground connections, nothing changes unless I tilt that switch rod and it also feels loose and sloppy. I have the switch out and hanging waiting for the new one and it still acts the same.

 

[B1Toad]

Anyone use the Crown part? Just got an email that my switch will not arrive at Mopar Parts Giant till 11/20 then from there they will ship it to me. If the Mopar is that much better I'll wait.

edit: just found one in CA. ships out tomorrow

 

[B1Toad]

New switch arrived and all is good. I hear some of you are upgrading the lamps to 100 watt versions, can the plastic socket in the provided Toyota harness hold up to the extra heat?

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

If you are using the Toyota harness with the 100/80 bulbs, you should be good. Both my son and I have not had any issues since we installed them last year.

 

[hear]

Not to derail, but is it a thing for our TJ's to install a relay and power the headlights directly off the battery? THat's a thing in the CJ world, and TJ lights are every bit as dim, I've always assumed they're powered through the switch, hence the loss in power at the lights. I've always just done aftermarket LED's so I've never investigated.

 

[B1Toad]

Not to derail, but is it a thing for our TJ's to install a relay and power the headlights directly off the battery? THat's a thing in the CJ world, and TJ lights are every bit as dim, I've always assumed they're powered through the switch, hence the loss in power at the lights. I've always just done aftermarket LED's so I've never investigated.

Well I cut my old switch open and yes the headlight current all goes thru it. In the attached pics you can see where the part with the contacts slides across the terminals and completes the various circuits. My contacts were seriously worn down plus there was evidence of water or condensation and corrosion which makes sense as Well I cut my old switch open and yes the headlight current all goes thru it. In the attached pics you can see where the part with the contacts slides across the terminals and completes the various circuits. My contacts were seriously worn down plus there was evidence of water or condensation and corrosion which makes sense as the contacts likely get hot then when they cool off in cold weather condensation likely forms in the switch and it is designed in a way that has no way to drain out.:

The dash light dimming is done by this variable resistor that rides outside the switch body and contacts the copper strap that the pencil is pointing to. My dimmer was also corroded.

This little spring is what sounds the warning chime when you leave the headlights on with the key off, it pushes open when the switch is all the way in. It connects to the spade terminal on the outside of the switch. Some after market switches do not have that terminal so if you want your chime to work make sure it comes with it.
The set of contacts on the other side of the switch body that looks like a set of ignition breaker points connects the actual headlight terminal to the battery terminal and it has a bi-metallic spring so if the main headlight circuit shorts or gets too hot the contacts will open and you will only lose headlights until the bi-metallic strip cools, then it will repeat if the problem is still there. This is a safety to prevent total headlight failure with no warning that you would get with just a fuse. I took a peek at those contacts and mine looked good with no corrosion.

So there it is, everything you always wanted to know about your headlight switch from a bored retired guy.

 

[B1Toad]

If you are using the Toyota harness with the 100/80 bulbs, you should be good. Both my son and I have not had any issues since we installed them last year.

Thanks, I was determined to order some 55/100s but as I am reading through the original Toyota Headlight Thread from a few years ago it seems the ones that came with the kit might be my best option. I am reading that the Koito lamps have a better beam pattern than the Hella and the difference in visibility between the Koitos and the higher wattage Hellas is miniscule if even noticeable at all. One thing I do know about halogen lamps (or any incandescent lamp), higher wattage ones burn out sooner due to trapped heat.

 

[C.J. Roberts]

Not to derail, but is it a thing for our TJ's to install a relay and power the headlights directly off the battery? THat's a thing in the CJ world, and TJ lights are every bit as dim, I've always assumed they're powered through the switch, hence the loss in power at the lights. I've always just done aftermarket LED's so I've never investigated.

Thanks, I was determined to order some 55/100s but as I am reading through the original Toyota Headlight Thread from a few years ago it seems the ones that came with the kit might be my best option. I am reading that the Koito lamps have a better beam pattern than the Hella and the difference in visibility between the Koitos and the higher wattage Hellas is miniscule if even noticeable at all. One thing I do know about halogen lamps, higher wattage ones burn out sooner due to trapped heat.

The Toyota kit has a relay harness that you can use if you want/need to. If you use the supplied bulbs, the 55/60 watt bulbs, they draw the same amount of power that the OEM sealed beams do. If you're going to use higher wattage bulbs, like the 55/100s you mention, or the more common 80/100 watt bulbs most of us use, you'll want to install the harness. That way only enough power to run the relays goes through the switch.
You're right about the bulbs burning out, but they're small enough and easy enough to replace that you can carry replacements in your glove box. Quadratec has Hells 80/100 bulbs on sale frequently for only a few $s.